110 inverter to 12v

Hello to everybody...it has been some time since I have been on this forum...my question is this...what is the preferred brand / size power inverter to use to run a serious amount of power. I plan on building a tool bench / cart that houses 2 large subs, 4 6x9's, the head, amps to power the speakers and possibly some leds (I'd assume the leds do not draw that much). The amps are 2 jl 1000 and some older 4 ch for the 6x9. Any help is appreciated. The subs are jl13w7...I have 4 subs but I think I'll use 2 of them for the tool cart / at the race track...the main point is a mobile radio for drag racing and shows. Thanks for reading this. Take care, Ryan

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RYAN

Have a look at this topic or search for Astron power supply.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=77446&KW=astron



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the12volt • Support the12volt.com

I'd suggest getting a 12V audio system instead.

But otherwise do not overlook the battery capacity you will need and how you recharge them.
Remember - the deeper the discharge and the longer the delay until recharge, the shorter the lifespan of the battery.

Oldspark, the OP's topic title should say converter instead of inverter as his post indicates he intends to use a 12V stereo system according to the equipment he listed. BTW, I run an Astron power supply without a battery to power a 12V multi amplifier system in my garage without any issues.

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the12volt • Support the12volt.com

Yes - my bad. I pulled up a pic of the JL 1000 and it looked like a domestic unit to me. (I should have looked at a top pic or specs.)

And I read 110 to 12V as 12V to 110. I'll blame that on the Coriolis effect AND a heavy weekend.

Thanks you for the reply...I value the info offered here...my next place to ask was a car audio shop...to see what they use to power their in store display. I will look into the suggested brand but I still am unsure of the size to buy...Thanks again for taking the time to reply.

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RYAN

A JL1000 at full output (1kW) means ~100A input. That's going to require some serious rectifiers (chargers).

For those requiring 10A - 25A and maybe more, many suggest PC supplies.
By finding the right feedback resistor, their output can be changed to up to 14.4V - the normal max for 12V batteries.
You have to be careful of the output capacitors. These may be rated for 15V which will mean an earlier failure than if running at 12V. Less than a 15V rating is unlikely.

The 5V circuit - which usually has a far higher output current than the 12V circuit - can sometimes also be boosted to 14.4V but then the output caps almost certainly have to be removed. (They are likely to have a 10V rating or lower.) Chances are that the other "5V" components will tolerate 14.4V since transistors etc usually have higher voltage ratings.
But also watch for any output (pre-)load resistor - at 14.4V it dissipates nearly 9x the Wattage it does at 5V - and any LED or light bulb on the output.

The response is way over my head...I looks that the Astron power supplies....for reference on amazon or ebay...they range of 12 amp to 70 amp and others...and the price difference is understandable in a quality product. The generic is I would like to power the subs, 6x9's and the head unit...I want to buy a power supply that is greater than what I need so I don't burn it up...thanks you for helping me out.

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RYAN

Ok, rephrased:

You have two JL1000's so at full output they will need ~200A.

Awesome...thank you for taking the time to help. Seems like it may be a bit more pricy than I expected...I'll have to save up more.

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RYAN

Here's an alternative power supply, and just a bit of a read too.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1005309
But it appears they're available rather inexpensively, which is always a plus.

That's amazing - 12V 1300W PSUs for $20!
$40 or $60 for burps should handle Ryan's requirement - assuming parallel connection is ok, and no battery is used.

Ah - good ol' Compaq!

Probably would be best to have independent outlets (separate circuit breakers) for each supply...for those times when it needs to be turned up to eleven.

I'd suspect they'd be self protecting.

I can't recall if they were hot standby mode - ie, BOTH halves commoned together with each carrying 50% of the load (and the load drawing no more than what one half can supply) - but I have little doubt that they were else telcos etc would not use them (or rather, NOT the telco I worked with).

Therefore it's also likely that any number can be paralleled without major issue - except that their output settings should be fairly close.


Dang you Ween - I think I you just caused me to hatch another round-tuit investigation. Not that I'm likely to need such big rectifiers (PSU) for a few decades, but now I'm curious!
I certainly dealt with rectifiers (ac-dc) and inverters (dc-ac) that could be paralleled. Most BIG ac-dc modules used inter-module communications that were essential on dc-ac inverters. Now if those Compaqs/Proliants had the same...

That is a great alternative...I have seen the price range from 350 usd to 1900 usd....some are commercial parts some are likely junk off the shelf parts. There is a factory tear out business in Cleveland that may have massive power supplies...I did not think of the commercial applications. I do belong the rc groups...I enjoy flying rc planes, edf , prop...the available info on electronics there is similar to the guys here...plus it is a clean and friendly group...thanks again for offering suggestions.

Take care, Ryan

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RYAN