i’m stumped on my subs.

Hello everyone. Ok I have a 2000 Denali Yukon. I have replaced my bose system, with an aftermarket JVC. I have all door speakers replaced with pioneers, (straight wired to completely bypass the onboard bose system. (they all sound great). Now my subs and amp I had in my Lincoln ls, I kept (they sounded great in the LS) and moved over. I hooked them up, via RCA from rear of JVC, using the wiring that was left in for the amp from the previous owner. they had no bump at all. and the amp would get really hot. I thought perhaps the month it sat up the amp could have gone out. So I bought a new DUAL 800 watt max amp (4) channel. no real change. sooo I bought new 12" subs. no difference. and the new amp gets hot. I even bought a new dual 12" speaker enclosure, no help. I have bridged them, single 4ohm, everything I can think of. everything is now new except for the power wire from the battery, and the RCA's that were already in there. they are playing, but not hitting hard at all, they sound more like good 6x9's.   I have always had systems in my cars that I installed, and they have all been really good. I have tried gain, bass gain, LPF, full, you name it. The Power wire is quite large, but it seems to be loose wire copper (the strands break easy and fray out)
Could this be my issue?
i'm stumped.
Thanks
Hank.

imjuggernaut31 wrote:

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<snipped> (4) channel

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There is your answer. That amp may not be capable of passing low frequencies through to the sub. Hence why it sounds like 6x9's not subs.

Check the amps settings and see if there is a subsonic or low pass slider switch. If only one is present then only the rear channels may have the ability to become a sub amp.

If it does not have a low pass setting you will need to purchase a sub amp.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

As for the amps getting hot that may mean you are running the impedance too low, or you have a bad ground. Low resistance to power high resistance to ground.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

yes it does, and specifically says it is designed to run 2/3/4 speakers. I have it on LPF on the amp. I have used the bass boost on it, and I have the two 12's Bridged. 1-bridged on front channel, 1- bridged in rear channel. I have even used my other amp bridged to two ohm, on a sing channel. no change. they won't hit. even after new amp, new subs, new box, new head unit, new door speakers.

oh also, both front and rear have the lpf/full/high selecter. and are both on lpf. and I have tried them on full. I have also adjusted output from the HU to (sub), and adjusted the output of sub signal, as well as bass.

Did you get signal from the factory subwoofer wires?

Let me phrase that in the form of a question not a statement. What impedance are the subs run at? What is each (bridged) channel seeing? A lot of amps are only 4ohm stable when bridged.

You stated you got signal from the new jvc radio directly did you not?

The only way that an amp can get hot is from low impedance to power, or a bad ground. (heat when talking about electricity means wasted energy. Therefore a bad power source is likely not the case as it takes power being wasted to create heat) A partial short to ground COULD cause issues but is likely not the issue here and can be ruled out with a visual inspection of where the wire passes into the vehicle. Pinch points etc.

Please check both. Is the amp going into protection mode at all? Usually a red light on the amp. Sometimes in protection mode an amp can just act as a full range pass through causing the subs to sound like giant (but muffled) full range speakers.

When you say it does not hit at all, this is sort of like describing how blue the sky is where you are standing vs where I/we are standing. Not meant to be rude, just trying to gather information to help you.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Also try just running a new RCA over your seats directly from the JVC to the amp. If that fixes the issue then the rca is damaged and will need to be re-run. If not it is time to check the power and ground wires. This stuff can be utterly frustrating and maddening because it is so simple but when there is a problem it seems so finicky.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

id say either a bad ground or a partially blown fuse under the hood