amp nightmare
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=137332
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 1:41 PM
Topic: amp nightmare
Posted By: herb81
Subject: amp nightmare
Date Posted: September 26, 2014 at 6:50 PM
Spent hours and hours today on what should have been a simple install.
My buddy has an 02 Tahoe with an Alpine deck.
He bought a USED amp and he already had the subs.
2 10" DVC 4 ohm subs kicker cvr's 120rms each
MTX JH300 mono amp
Wired everything up. Subs are 4 ohms at the amp.
It works, kinda. Power led on amp is not on, ever. But the amp is sending bass to the subs.
Also this amp has a lightning bolt led. It's off when car is running. But the light is on when the car is off.
Any ideas? Bad amp? Bad wire or short?
Pretty sure that's not enough power for those subs anyway.
Replies:
Posted By: tonanzith
Date Posted: September 26, 2014 at 8:21 PM
Have you checked voltage at the amp??
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Gary Sather
Posted By: herb81
Date Posted: September 26, 2014 at 8:26 PM
I will have to get a meter. Should have had one on hand but I didn't at the time.
Thanks
Posted By: herb81
Date Posted: September 27, 2014 at 2:02 AM
Thoughts on if this amp is even powerful enough?
Doesn't seem so to me. Especially at 4 ohms.
JackHammer Class D Monoblock Car Amp
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 200 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan.
Max power output: 600 watts x 1 chan.
Subs Two CVR's
power range 50-300 watts RMS (150 watts RMS per coil)
Posted By: tonanzith
Date Posted: September 27, 2014 at 10:09 AM
Yes it's underpower for the subs. But you should still have listenable bass.
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Gary Sather
Posted By: herb81
Date Posted: September 27, 2014 at 6:39 PM
Figured as much, thanks. Oh yea the bass is there. even though the power led isnt lit up. It's just very low/weak at proper gain and boost settings.
Posted By: herb81
Date Posted: September 30, 2014 at 8:08 PM
It's been awhile so before I mess anything up...
How do I check the volts at the amp again using a meter?
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: October 01, 2014 at 9:43 PM
Measure on 20VDC range between the amps +12V input and its GND terminals.
Posted By: herb81
Date Posted: October 01, 2014 at 10:21 PM
Awesome, thanks oldspark.
Posted By: cvsct698
Date Posted: October 03, 2014 at 12:07 PM
Another thing worth checking is your fuse if you are using an AGU fuse(glass). A lot of AGU fuses have an issue with the solder joints on the inside failing leading to poor or no connection. You will need to check resistance across the fuse. The resistance should be negligible. When this type of failure occurs, the fuse will not appear blown. You may also show power at the amp with a meter, do to the lack of load on the circuit if the system is off. Having this happen is often symptomatic of having an insufficient wire gauge for your amp wiring.
Posted By: herb81
Date Posted: October 03, 2014 at 3:28 PM
Fuse is a blade type. Came in-line with the wire kit. You might be right about the wire gauge, it's only 8. Also the fuse is 50 amp.
Checked volts at the amp today and it looks good, 12.32.
Re-checked the ohms and it's also correct at 4.
Also the power led seems to be working somewhat now.
I did the ground wire over with 4 gauge as well.
Still have a major problem with the 'bolt' led staying on after car is off. Seems a remote switch is wrong or something else.
Hear some noise through the subs when it's first turned on. Static/ rumble/scratchy best way I can describe it....
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