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1999 Ford Explorer factory Amp bypass

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=2173
Printed Date: May 19, 2024 at 5:54 AM


Topic: 1999 Ford Explorer factory Amp bypass

Posted By: dajocko
Subject: 1999 Ford Explorer factory Amp bypass
Date Posted: July 23, 2002 at 9:45 PM

I have actually answered alot of my questions by reading the posts on this kick ass board, but I thought I would double check and ask for any pointers. I have two 2 channel amps from my old Explorer that I want to put into my new used Explorer. I have already run the main power lead from the battery and I am looking for the most effective way to hook up the remote power. I see that the ignition wire seems to be the place to hook it up or possibly a blue wire in the factory harness??? Does any one know if you can hook into the factory remote or even if there is a factory remote? Also, is there some way I can check to make sure that I am actually tapping the ignition wire? The reason I ask is the fact the I have an Explorer Limited and this damn thing has more gadets and wiring than I have ever seen. I know that alot of these wiring diagrams are a general diagram, but I have a feeling my truck might have some different color schemes for all the different connections. I have included the wiring diagram for the security in case it helps. Thanks in advance...

1999 Ford Explorer Security Information

  • Constant 12V+  Yellow    Ignition Switch Harness
  • Starter   RED / Light Blue   Ignition Switch Harness
  • Ignition   Light GREEN/ Purple  Ignition Switch Harness
  • Ignition 2   Gray / YELLOW   Ignition Switch Harness
  • Ignition 3   BLACK/ Green   Ignition Switch Harness
  • Accessory  Gray / YELLOW   Ignition Switch Harness
  • Tach   Tan / YELLOW   Coil or Pin 48 at PCM
  • Neutral Safety Wire RED / Light Blue (+)  
  • Brake Switch  Light Green   Brake Switch
  • Trunk Pin n/a   Same as Dome Light
  • Parking Lights  PURPLE / White (+)   Driver's Kick Panel or WHITE/ Black at Switch
  • Head Lamp  RED / Yellow (+)   Light Switch
  • Hood Pin Tan/Light  Green (-)    Driver's Kick Panel
  • Factory Disarm  Dark GREEN/ Purple (-)  4 Pin Connector Driver's Kick Panel
  • Door Trigger  BLACK/ Light Blue (+)  Courtesy Light under Dash
  • Door Lock  Pink / YELLOW (-)   Driver's Kick Panel
  • Door Unlock  Pink/Light Green (-)  
  • Driver's Lock  Pink/Black (+)   Driver's Door Harness
  • Driver's Unlock  RED / Orange (+)   Driver's Door Harness
  • Passenger Unlock  Pink/Green (-)   Driver's Kick Panel
  • Horn Wire  Yellow/Light Green (-)  Or Blue at Steering Column
  • Windows Up  LF=WHITE/ Black, RF=Tan/Light Blue, LR=Gray/Orange, RR=Yellow/Black
  • Windows Down  LF=Red, RF=WHITE/ Yellow, LR=Yellow/Light Blue, RR=RED / Black



Replies:

Posted By: hot_shot_guy123
Date Posted: July 23, 2002 at 10:02 PM

Are you hooking it up to an aftermarket radio or your factory radio?  Your remote wire goes from the back of your radio to your amp, not to your ignition.  The 1 remote wire might not be enough to turn on both amps so you can add a relay to make the signal stronger.  Hook it up like so

PIN 85 = Ground

PIN 86 = Remote wire from radio

PIN 87 = Constant 12v fused

PIN 30 = Wires out to amps



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"Light travels faster then sound, that's why some people seem bright until you hear them speak."
hot_shot_guy123




Posted By: paulhinojosa
Date Posted: July 24, 2002 at 3:20 PM
I'm hooking up an amp to my factory cd player in my 1999 ford explorer sport. I have to install a rca converter b/c/ the deck doesn't have rca plugs. I need to know if it matters whether I tap into front or rear speakers.  

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paul hinojosa




Posted By: dajocko
Date Posted: July 24, 2002 at 4:20 PM

Hot Shot Guy,

I am using the factory stereo. There are actually three harnesses behing the radio. The advice you gave me

PIN 85 = Ground

PIN 86 = Remote wire from radio

PIN 87 = Constant 12v fused

PIN 30 = Wires out to amps

is a little bit over my head. I am not a pro so if you could explain this a litttle bit more in layman's term that would help me.

Thanks





Posted By: demond96
Date Posted: July 24, 2002 at 10:03 PM
I two have a ford explorer (93). I also have had those same issues. I solved them by buying an after market head unit. Before I brought that I tapped into the speaker and amp remote wires beneath the rear seat on the right just before the wheel well by the right side rear door. I wired my rca converter  there and placed the amp underneath the rear seat.  All the wiring you need to access is right there. All the speaker leads run in too and out from the factory amp.The factory amp is behind the rear right panel above the wheel well. I don't know what year explorer you have, and I am most certainly not a proffessional, but maybe this will help out.

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Posted By: dajocko
Date Posted: July 25, 2002 at 5:46 PM

demond96,

How did you or where did you hook the remote turn on?

Thanks





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: July 25, 2002 at 9:33 PM

There is a BLUE wire going into the factory amp... this is your remote turn on lead for the amp. Tap into this and make sure you test it to be sure that it is a (+) switched wire when the radio is turned on.



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: demond96
Date Posted: July 25, 2002 at 10:35 PM

 My factory radio didn't last long so I had to buy an after market radio. You can connect the amp to the  remote wire under the seat all of your speaker wires are bundled there in black electrical tape(that is how my wires were).



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