speaker box pics
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=21739
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 11:15 AM
Topic: speaker box pics
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Subject: speaker box pics
Date Posted: November 21, 2003 at 12:53 AM
hey, i have a 1976 chevy silverado fullsize single cab p/u. right now i have a bench seat. i plan on getting 2 bucket seats. i wanna build a sub box that has a wedge box behind the seats and has a part of the box coming up like a console. i made a couple rough sketches of what it will look like. i want to get either two 12s or two 10s. the subs will be facing down in the console, with plexiglass for to make it look good. i might do with out the plexiglass, not sure yet. anyways, what subs would you guys recommend? i was thinking maybe JL 12w7 or w6v2, but im not sure. any ideas or comments greatly appreciated. thank you. 
Replies:
Posted By: si90lude
Date Posted: November 21, 2003 at 2:36 PM
if you are dead set on the box design and size, the first step is to calculate your enclosure volume and purchase a woofer thet will accomidate the box. If you are somewhat flexible with dimensions on your enclosure get the subs you want. "check out alpine R series, great price for a great sub.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: November 21, 2003 at 2:43 PM
i used the volume calculator, and i would have just shy of 5 feet. i dont care about price, i get most stuff at cost so it doesnt matter. i want the best subwoofer that will give me the boom and will be good with the volume of the box.
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: November 21, 2003 at 2:55 PM
Actually I get about 3.87 cuft with your enclosure design. Do you intend it to be sealed, ported, bandpass, what? Where do you plan to mount the driver?
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: November 21, 2003 at 3:07 PM
i get 4.43 cuft. with 3/4 thick wood. can you double check? anyways the driver will be firing down in the cosole part of the box. i put a picture here, but sometimes they dont work. so i tried to explain somewhat above. 
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: November 21, 2003 at 4:25 PM
What you have drawn is basically three shapes put together. Using 3/4" MDF, your gross internal volume would be: 15 x 13 x 24 cube = 2.02148 cuft 15 x 13 x 3 triangle = 0.06738 cuft 62 x 16 x 7 x 4 trapezoid = 1.78121 cuft Total = 3.87007 cuft. If you plan to mount a woofer down firing under the plexiglass, then the dimensions above are incorrect, as there will have to be another piece of MDF inside the enclosure to mount the driver on, and you are actually then building a band-pass enclosure. Where are your ports? The shape you have drawn will probably not result in very good sound as a bandpass, as your tuning frequency would end up somewhere around 70 hz. Plus not only would it be difficult if not impossible to find a speaker that would work well in such an enclosure, finding one that would also handle being mounted down-firing is more difficult yet. If you can find a driver that would work in this, I do not envy you the problems you will have with this enclosure; not only getting it put together in the first place but the required internal bracing will be a b**tch. Regardless, nothing you do with this shape would work very well with a JL 12W7 as I believe that driver works best in a 1.8 to 2.0 cuft sealed enclosure. If you are locked in to this geometry, your best bet might be to abandon the idea of having a down-firing driver under your plexiglass window, make the front piece a little wider so you can mount a 12" Eclipse Titanium facing the front, and put ports in the top of the back area. Eclipse Titanium 12" will function pretty well in a 4.0 cuft ported enclosure.
Posted By: bberman1
Date Posted: November 21, 2003 at 5:12 PM
How much room is their between the bottom of the plexi consul (where you show the subs mounted) and what ever is below it? But before designing a box I would fist suggest you find a woofer(s) so you calculate / build the appropriate enclosure.
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: November 21, 2003 at 8:40 PM
I agree with bberman1, find yourself a good woofer and build your box according to it's needs, Someone up there mentioned Eclipse  , now that's a nasty high output subwoofer that works in a nice small easy to build sealed box. It would probably outdue your basspectations, even though it is only 1 speaker. ------------- Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: pureRF
Date Posted: November 21, 2003 at 8:45 PM
I agree with them, an eclipse titanium will rock you.
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dream it, build it, fiberglass it
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: November 22, 2003 at 4:49 PM
DYohn, i know that you are far more experience with this stuff than i am. but i still think that you are incorrect on the volume of the wedge section of the box. if you look on the volume calculator, the box is laying in a different position as my proposed box. on the volume calc. the parallel sides of the box are vertical, and on my box they are horizontal. you needed to imagine my box laying with the parallel sides vertical, and then plug in the values. thats how i got 2.41142 cuft for the wegde portion of the box. i can see where you made your mistake. they way it should be is: width - 62", Height 1 - 7" , Height 2 - 4" , Depth - 16", and thickness at .75", which gives you 2.42242.
Posted By: auex
Date Posted: November 22, 2003 at 9:15 PM
I came up with right around 4.46 cubic feet of airspace using 3/4 wood/plexi. This is using the box calc on the site, it could be wrong ( I am feeling lazy today and going to trust the calc).
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Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: November 24, 2003 at 1:02 PM
what if i just said forget about the portion of the box behind the seat and just did a box as the console only, so just a "rectangle" box guess you could say 
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: November 24, 2003 at 1:36 PM
Another great idea but it has not addressed the original suggestion "what came first the chicken or the egg". Solidify your decison on the subwoofer first, then build the box to the needed airspace of the sub. According to the diagram above I get ~ 2.56 cu. ft. of gross volume, you need to allow for internal space taken up by the sub or subs and of course the braces (you don't want that box to flex at all). If your heading on this path, choose the sub or subs to fit this airpace. A pair of Eclipse aluminum 10's or 12's would suffice quiet nicely, that is if you want to be spanked by bass with sq to boot. This box is a really easy box for you to build and with the right sub or subs in it will sound really good.
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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: November 24, 2003 at 1:51 PM
I agree completely that you need to start with the woofers and not the enclosure, but that being said you STILL have a design that is completely unworkable. If your woofers are firing into an airspace covered with plexi, you are building a bandpass box. I suggest this is the wrong design. especially since you still do not indicate any ports. If you build the enclosure you have pictured, you will end up with have an expensive vibrator with subs heating up the air inside the box until they blow. I am guessing you want a plexi cover so you can show off your drivers, but so far all your designs will not produce anything *except* showing off your drivers. There will be no bass from this design. Also, is there a reason besides SPL that you are intent on using dual drivers? How about this: you go back to the original design of the enclosure behind your seat, only leave off the part that sticks up between your seats. Make the rear enclosure sealed at about 2.2 cuft and mount a 12" Eclipse Titanium (or aluminum) facing the front in the area where you now show the part covered with the plexi. Put a nice speaker grill on it and forget about using plexi. Now THAT would rock your world.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: November 24, 2003 at 4:40 PM
i would love to get an eclipse driver, the only problem is, Eclipse is one of the very few brands that i can't get from my friend who owns an audio business, and that means that i will be paying up the a$$! any other suggestions that would be a good sub?
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: November 24, 2003 at 4:51 PM
Your friend can't probably sell you a lexus as well, if he can then we'll talk. No offence to your friend, he probably has a respected shop with some good product lines, but sometimes the best deal... $ is not the best deal... that is the nice thing about competition. Good equipment costs good $, Eclipse is not overpriced at all, it is more expensive at dealer cost than most others, but the end result...awesome, I'm sure the posts about Eclipse subs show this. The nice thing that you have is a friend who's willing to give you a great deal. I ask my friends to support my business, however I do not have everything for all of them to meet their specific needs and fully expect someone else to get the deal. This does not mean that they won't continue to use my services and recommend it to other. Eclipse is a specialty line, ice cream with sprinkles if you will, not meat and potatoes like the Driftwood, Pionsneer, Slamasonic, Smellpine, Maid Marion, etc. They are all good brands but no one dealer can support them all. Maybe your friend should look into the Eclipse line, sounds like a job opportunity.
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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: November 24, 2003 at 5:02 PM
well how much would 1 12" titanium cost, or 1 12" alumium cost. i just turned 18, im just a kid, i have very limited funds, so thats why i am concerned with cost. What about JL, or Memphis.
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: November 24, 2003 at 8:40 PM
JL and Memphis are both great sub brands, IMO. Can't got wrong with either of them. Have you given any more thought to your proposed enclosure design issue?
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: November 24, 2003 at 8:50 PM
I'd love to quote you on some new gear, however that is not the purpose of this site. I also would recommend that you support the local dealer in your area. Finally being in Canada sometimes has advantages, but as for Eclipse, warranty ends at the border. Find yourself a good knowledgeable Eclipse dealer and go for broke, you will be blown away by what a aluminum sub, yet a titanium sub would do, I prefer to add an Audio Control Epicenter to have bass that will shake you like a bowl of jello in an earthquake. Lightning Audio and JL also make some really good equipment, go find some pricing on all 3 models. ------------- Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: November 25, 2003 at 10:10 PM
Also the reason I wanted to get 2 Drivers instead of one is that i already have an new amp. an A2200HCT which is 1600w RMS, that would be too much for just one sub, dont ya think. unless it is a sub that needs that much power. thats why all my ideas involved 2 drivers.
Posted By: MAXST
Date Posted: November 25, 2003 at 10:45 PM
Cut the plexi with eclipse logo..or the name in it. thus. you'll have the pexi and a grill to protect it. Frost the edges and put in a neon bar or LED's and it'll light up. ------------- I need quality equipment, feel free to donate.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 07, 2003 at 4:09 PM
would just the wedge portion of the box have sufficient air space for 2 eclipse 12's? or would it be too small?
Posted By: MAXST
Date Posted: December 07, 2003 at 10:04 PM
i would make it like a console with the plexi showing the bottom of the subs, and fire them down onto the floor, but then you would have to brace that sucker up good for the eclipses. you could blow the box up. ------------- I need quality equipment, feel free to donate.
Posted By: nedgeworth
Date Posted: December 07, 2003 at 10:54 PM
What are the exact specs of your amp?
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 08, 2003 at 2:58 PM
Product Description: - High Current Circuitry
- PVM MOSFET Power Supply
- Double Sided Glass Epoxy Circuit Board
- S/N Ratio: >100dB
- Frequency Response: 10Hz-40,000Hz (+/- 1dB)
- Remote Bass Control With Blue Backlight Knobs
- Variable 24dB Hi-pass Crossover: 50Hz-750Hz
- Variable 24dB Low-pass Crossover: 30Hz-120Hz
- Variable Bass Boost: 0-18dB
- Variable Bass Boost Frequency: 40Hz-100Hz
- Variable Subsonic Filter: 20Hz-45Hz
- RCA Throughput Connections
- 4-way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit,
- Overload, and DC Offset
- Dual Cooling Fans
- VU Meters Indicating Output Response
- Cobalt Blue Illumination
- High Gloss Chrome Plated Finish
Specific Features: - 4 Ohm Stereo: 200 X 2 Watts
- 2 Ohm Stereo: 400 X 2 Watts
- 1 Ohm Stereo: 600 X 2 Watts
- 4 Ohm Mono: 400 X 1 Watts
- 2 Ohm Mono: 800 X 1 Watts
- 1 Ohm Mono: 1600 X 1 Watts
- Height: 3 11/16"
- Width: 12"
- Depth: 23 1/16"
Posted By: nedgeworth
Date Posted: December 08, 2003 at 4:28 PM
Well you've got pleanty of power to feed whatever sub(s) you choose. But just because you've got all that power doesn't mean you need a sub(s) that is/are going to take it all. But like bberman1 and forbidden suggested the eclipse range of subs would be awesome for what you want to do if you can afford too.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 09, 2003 at 2:07 PM
i know i have plenty power, but my question is, would i have enough air space required for 2, 12" eclipse titanuims or even the aluminums?
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: December 09, 2003 at 2:20 PM
Eclipse alum 12's like a sealed box with about 1.25 cu.ft gross volume per sub, so about 2.5cu.ft for 2 subs. I would recommend that you build the box with two separate chambers. ------------- Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 09, 2003 at 3:26 PM
is there a large noticable difference between the aluminums and the titaniums? also, does anyone know the depth of the aluminum and titanium subs. i would have to use a wedge box behind my seat in a single cab truck so depth is an issue thanks
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