Cut-Cab Speaker box
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=23221
Printed Date: April 26, 2024 at 3:32 AM
Topic: Cut-Cab Speaker box
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Subject: Cut-Cab Speaker box
Date Posted: December 22, 2003 at 6:35 PM
awhile ago i posted a question on a speaker box design. well now i am probably gonna scrap the ideas i had, and look into building just a rectangle box in the bed of my truck, and cut the cab in order to have to subs fire into the truck. since its a single cab, i wouldnt have to have my seats so far forward. i would most likey use 2 eclipse titanium 12s, or possibly JL w7. does anyone have any opinions on this plan, or ideas or comments. thanks
Replies:
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: December 22, 2003 at 7:19 PM
Comments, how's about yah go for it. Get yourself some canopy expansion liner (a flexible gasket that attaches a canopy to a rear window). This will keep a seal between the cutout of the back wall and the cutout in the box of the truck. You can find it at some auto parts stores but more than likely an RV or canopy dealer. For subs, read the post about Eclipse vs. Kicker, Eclipse all the way  . ------------- Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 23, 2003 at 2:44 AM
how big of a box should i make, as in, height x width x depth? what would be a good size?
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: December 23, 2003 at 3:49 PM
You need to finalize your choice of subs before you can go for the sub box.  ------------- Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 23, 2003 at 8:51 PM
okay, its between the Eclipse Titaniums, or the JL w7. how about we take them one at a time, and see what size box I would need for each brand. so...how big of a box would i need for 2 eclipse titanium 12s? and..how big of a box would i need for 2 JL 12W7s? that also might help me come to a conclusion on what i will pick. thanks
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 24, 2003 at 3:42 PM
does anyone have any suggestions on box sizes? how big should i make them?
Posted By: mindctrl
Date Posted: December 24, 2003 at 5:18 PM
Don't go with the W7. Our local Car Toys has them, and they completely suck. Especially compared to Eclipse. I don't trust anything Car Toys says, anyways... =P So now that you've decided on your Eclipses, you need to find the datasheet for them. If you buy them right away, each sub will come with one. Are you going to make this a ported or a sealed box? If you want something that hits louder, I would suggest the ported box, they usually hit louder then the sealed boxes but they are not protected against turn on thumps and whatnot. If you've got a quality amp thats not going to matter, anyhow. Find out what the airspace needed for each sub is, and we can figure out how big you should make your box from there. I saw a guy do the same thing to his truck, but he had a diamond plated toolbox that went over the box, so it looked perfectly normal on his truck and it did not even look like he had those in there. If you are planning on putting a canopy on your truck, then I would suggest making the ports so they fire backwards and reverberate inside your canopy, it'll make your truck sound pretty nice on the outside as well. What kind of truck is this going to be going in? That can have an effect on it as well. Let me know, thanks. --mindctrl
Posted By: bberman1
Date Posted: December 24, 2003 at 6:22 PM
I would defiantly suggest that you go with the Titanium over the W7. The W7 is a very nice sub but compared to the Titanium it doesn’t come close. If your looking into top of the line subs and you are willing to spend the money I wouldn’t settle for anything but the best. As far as the enclosure sizes go, I would suggest 1.25 cu/ft sealed per sub for the Titanium. On the W7 I would use a sealed enclosure with a volume of 2.0 cu/ft. just my 2 cents here, but in your earlier box design you were adding bench seats and showed a wedge type enclosure behind the seats. I don’t know what type of room you have back there. But I would try and design an enclosure using fiberglass before I went and cut the truck bed.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 24, 2003 at 6:29 PM
i have very little room behind my seat, i have a wedge box behind my bench seat right now, and my seat is all the way forward, and i have very little leg room, so if i did the cut cab, i could scoot my seat all the back and just have my subs in the bed. i would have the box all the way up against the front on my bed, and then have a hole the goes through into the cab, i sketched a quick drawing to get a better idea of what its gonna be. 
Posted By: bberman1
Date Posted: December 24, 2003 at 6:30 PM
Your pic doesn’t show!
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 24, 2003 at 6:32 PM
it usually takes a little while for it to come up
Posted By: mindctrl
Date Posted: December 24, 2003 at 6:32 PM
What kind of truck is this going in? --mindctrl
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 24, 2003 at 6:35 PM
oh sorry, its a 1976 chevy silverado step-side
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: December 24, 2003 at 6:47 PM
So.... who's still at work? If you are leading towards the Titanium, a heavily braced sealed enclosure of 1.25cu.ft per driver (separate chambers) is recommended. Leave about 5 inches of space in front of the drivers to the front of the box of the pickup if you can. Make this box out of Marine grade Birch or MDF that has had a truckload of resin applied to it, then have the entire enclosure covered inside and out with line-x or whatever spray in box-liner (truck box-liner) material you can find. This will seal the box better than anything and give it a little extra strength to boot. You can actually mount this sub box into your truck box and not have to worry about moisture (make sure you do all surfaces of the box, inside and out). It is still a good idea however to have some sort of checkerplate over top, this makes it harder to steal.
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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 24, 2003 at 7:08 PM
where can i buy this Marine grade birch wood at? and is it better to have seperate chambers?
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: December 24, 2003 at 7:10 PM
Any plywood store, some building centers. Yes, definitely use separate chambers!
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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 24, 2003 at 7:14 PM
okay so like a Home Depot or a Lowes would have it? and do u have any idea how much it costs? also i was playing around with the volume calculator, and i get about 2.69 cuft with box dimensions of 40"length X 13"height X 12" depth. would that be a good size?
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 24, 2003 at 7:22 PM
lets see if the pic will work now.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 25, 2003 at 2:52 PM
okay so like a Home Depot or a Lowes would have it? and do u have any idea how much it costs? also i was playing around with the volume calculator, and i get about 2.69 cuft with box dimensions of 40"length X 13"height X 12" depth. would that be a good size?
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: December 26, 2003 at 11:44 AM
Here in Canada we have different stores, so I don't know about yours. Something looks wrong with your math dude, don't even start with a box design until you have the subs in your hand. A titanium will need a baffle board with a minimum of 14" x 14" for a 12" sub, I would prefer a little more though, like 16" x 16",what I'm trying to say is that you are going backwards with your box idea. Once you have your width and height narowed down, you can complete the box by solving for the depth.
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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 27, 2003 at 4:39 AM
what exactly is a baffle board?
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: December 27, 2003 at 3:27 PM
The baffle board is the peice of MDF that the speaker mounts to.
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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 29, 2003 at 3:44 PM
oh okay, now how do i go about bracing this box?
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: December 29, 2003 at 6:29 PM
Bracing takes up space inside of the box, thus you should add a little bit of airspace to the box when you make it. Bracing can be made out of mdf. You should have a solid divider board between the two subs, thus two separate air chambers. What the brace is designed to do is keep the walls of the box from flexing, you can use mdf pieces to wedge between the parallel surfaces (top to bottom - side to side - front to back). I have also seen people use 2x4's for bracing as well, if you go this route it is fairly simple. In all cases the braces need to glued and screwed into place.
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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 30, 2003 at 1:18 AM
okay, thanks a lot
Posted By: Durwood
Date Posted: December 30, 2003 at 1:38 AM
You can also use blocks of wood as braces. Glue them in the corners of the box, so that each block is glued to three sides of the box. As Rob pointed out, whatever bracing you use, compensate for it by making the box larger by an equivalent amount. Another good type of brace is similar to the solid divider board Rob described, but with a large hole cut in the middle of the panel. Cut the hole so that the square MDF "ring" that you'll be left with is at least 1.5 inches wide or so. For example, if the solid sheet is 12" X 12", I'd cut out a hole out of it measuring 9" X 9". Then, glue it into your box like Rob described for the solid divider board. This gives strength to the box without isolating part of the airspace from the rest of the airspace. Scott Gardner
Posted By: AudioBAHNvlcm
Date Posted: December 30, 2003 at 1:58 PM
i gotcha, seems simple enough. thanks a lot
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