amp/sub install question

ok im a huge newb when it comes to this kind of stuff so bare with me...

Question #1:

I just bought an amp and was trying to install it but i got to the last step (power) and i saw that it needed 8 guage wire... tied to a battery terminal.  is this normal in all amps?  my amp is 2 channel 200 watts and i wanted to hook my subs up to it.  (before i read 8 guage i was going to hook it up to the 12 volt wire my stereo was hooked up to... )

Question #2:

i have 2 kicker subs that are really old... i dont know how many watts or anything about them really but I was wondering if i hook them both up to a seperate channel or splice the bridged cable thats suposed to hook to 1 sub.

Question #3:

is there such thing as a BAD amp?  because i just got a 200 watt 2 channel amp for 50 bucks (i dont know what i was expecting but i cant get it hooked up yet without an 8 guage wire)  i just want to know if the amp could lower the quality of the music its amping...

Question #4:

is there any IRC or aol chats for speakers?  (little faster responce then with a forum :D )

First of all is your amp's manual or cover say 200 watts peak or 200 watts rms (continuous power, this is what you should use to compare speakers and amps with). If its peak power then you will only need a 10 gauge ground wire and a 10 gauge power  wire going DIRECTLY to the positive battery post in your car. If it says 200 watts RMS then you will need 8 gauge power and ground wire instead.  Also you will have to ground the amp if you havnt already. To ground it use the same gauge wire as your power wire going to the battery (except try to keep the ground wire 3 feet in length or less) and find a spot close by the amp where there is a screw or bolt that is attached directly to your car or trucks chassis(or you can screw directly into the chassis). Clean this spot (scrape away any paint) and attach your ground wire from your amp firmly to this spot with a good screw (like the 24 karat gold ones that come with most amp wiring kits). Now for the subs. Look on the bottom of the subs magnet and it should say a RMS and peak power rating. compare this to your amps RMS output to see if they will be a good pair to use with your amp(dont worry about the peak rating, just use the RMS rating and its ok if your subs list an RMS power rating larger then your amp, just dont use subs with a much lower RMS power rating then your amp). Now for connecting the subs to your amp. If your subs are 4 ohm single voice coil you can hook them up to each of your amps 2 channels, if your amp is a 2 channel amp. If your amp is a mono amp (usually only has one output and can handle a 2 ohm load, then you can wire your subs like this diagram shows:

if your amp is mono and can handle a 2 ohm load  you will be getting more output probobly because wiring your subs like above will make your amp give your subs more power then wiring each one to a 2 channel amp in 4 ohms. And yes all amps sound different and they can sound like crap. If you tell me the model and brand of your amp then i can give you more info on how to wire everything for the best sound. 

I'm a newbie to this forum as well, but I have been installing/selling car audio for going on 13 years. On behalf of everyone in the industry and on this forum, welcome, and I hope you learn a lot.

Power wire size is paramount to the performance of the amp. Always run as big a guage power wire as the amp will accept. Never hook your amp to the back of the stereo. That 12 volt lead from the factory is usually a 14 or 16 guage and is fused for 10 to 15 amps. You probably won't get to listen very long before you snap the fuse in the block.

As for the subs, post the model number and perhaps somebody here might know what they require for input power. If not, I would try running just one of them bridged (assuming it is a 4 ohm speaker and your amp is bridgable). I find that running one speaker really well is much better than barely running 2. Probably keep your equipment alive longer, too.

There are better amps than others, but in general even a basic amp is better than no amp. Just look at the real ratings. A 1200 watt amp for 150-200 dollars seems a little askew, for instance. Always look at the amps RMS rating at 12 volts, not 13.8 or 14.4. Chances are you have not built an electrical system in your car that can really supply that kind of voltage. Also look at the amp's power output relevant to your speaker's ohm load. If you bridging your amp into one 4 ohm sub, look at the amp's 12 volt, 4 ohm RMS rating. If you sort through the BS and get the real numbers, then as a rule, there really isn't a bad amp. There are exceptions, but they are few.

Hope that helps. If you get stuck running a wire to your battery, consult your local shop. They should not charge more 40 or 50 bucks to hook everything to the amp for you.

Enjoy!

thanks for the tips so far... i think im starting to understand all this amp / sub / speaker stuff :D

my subs dont say the max watt or anything but i can tell you what it DOES say...

KICKER  uniplate extended pole, SEPARATES by still water designs, competitions c-10 8 ohms;  and the number is: 3692LXUSA          (these subs have been hooked up to my stereo for awhile and act just like normal speakers execpt that they are much lower in frequency and are half as loud as all other speakers... so im not even sure if they are true subwoofers... )

the amp:              VR3 vertual reality sound labs serious sound

200 watts peak power, 2 channel  (brigeable),  model is "VRA2.0"        (btw i just bought the amp to test my subs if its not a good amp PLEASE let me know so i can return it and buy a good one)              -                if you need more info on the amp i can get it i just gave the stuff i thought looked important (another newbish action) 

ALSO  -   Will the amp take down my car battery fairly quickly if it needs HUGE wires connected strait to the car battery??  and the instructions say i need a battery terminal and stuff like that, does that do the same thing as me just putting a different i loop on the end for 2 8 guage wires?

ok so i use the bridged amp thing and wire them parallel... i think i can figure that out :D

what is a good amp? i dont know how good or even if my subs work yet thats why i bought such a crappy amp... im stuck right now because i have to run a 8 gauge wire from the front of my car to the back and i have no clue on how im going to do that.......... (threw the interior  or possably run it exterior underneath? )

ok amps.... what is the best?  do i want a mono amp or a 2 channel amp? if my subs dont work im going to have to buy a new sub so what is good if im ONLY hooking subs to it?  im going to find out the wattage on my sub after I buy an 8 guage wire so hopfully i can get back to you with the stats to my subs soon. 

- I desided to to go with 8 guage since im not possative im going to stay with my amp... unless almost all amps can be wired with 10 guage...?? )

mono amp is just one channel correct? does that mean that i can imput though speaker wire or does it still require RCA jacks?

ill see if theres any way to run it though the interior then........ bottem of car idea didnt sound to good since there is over a foot of snow on the ground right now (snow is water, water and a 8 guage wire powered by the car battery dont mix well )

any requrements i need on an amp? so far when i go to buy one im going to buy a mono amp that does 4 ohms and has bass boost built into it.... is that all i really need?  (i will determine wattage later........ )

Sorry forgot to give you link and price. The US acoustics amp is about $129.00 and is called the USB-600D. Crutchfield is a good place to buy stuff from. Free lifetime product tech support and fast shipping. They also have pretty good prices on everything and if you buy a new cd player or speakers they give you excellent directions on how to install it

https://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-PYKiIVnkgQS/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=3&g=130&I=235USB600D&o=m&a=0&cc=01&avf=N

ok i just went to a local ultiment electronics and they said my subs are probubly 300 watt and he sugested a 250 rms amp (1500 peak).   the unit was about 240 bucks so the us acustics is something i will have to really look into :D only diference is that the 600D is 50 watts less (i can live with that) and its mono (the one he wanted me to buy was 2 channel)

--ive been looking at the USB-600D while posting and saw that it has 2 channel outputs, does that mean it can be used as a 2 channel amp as well as a mono amp for my subs? (not at the same time of course)

thanks guys for all your help, anyone know if any stores sell the us acustic or if i have to buy it online?

You should be fine using the US Acoustics. And are you sure you were looking at the USB-600D. It should only have one mono output(one + and - out) and since your subs are single voice coil what I would do to get the maximum amount of power for these subs is wire each sub's positve and negative terminal to the amps single output. This will give you a 2 ohm load in mono (most two channel amps when bridged will only handle a 4 ohm load and you wouldnt be getting as much power with each sub wired to a single channel as you would with the US Acoustics amp i mentioned). Make sure to get an 8 gauge wirining kit from a good brand like Stinger or Streetwires.

ok my subs are aprox 300 watt RMS, and i have 2.  the 600D amp only sends out 200 watts @ 4ohms so each speaker would be boosted 100 correct? (2 8 ohm subs hooked up to it)

this would make my subs run under half of what they were made to run at, so is there any "cheap" bigger ones that can run 2 8 ohm subs at 200-250 rms?

amp i saw, (see if you can beat this) 1500 peak 2 channel (bridgeable) 125 x 2 @ ohms i think.  so if i bridged it then the thing would pump out 500 x 1@ 4 ohms.   so when i plug both speakers in parrellel then it sends them both 250 watts rms.  this amp was $280 (OUCH!)

ok i desided that bridging a 2 channel would be alot cheaper then buying a huge mono amp. 

us acoustics usb 2150 https://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-aM22M9hTlK7/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=3&g=110&I=235USB2150&o=p&a=1&cc=01&avf=Y   $150  +  $11 shipping

PLANET AUDIO TT2300 https://www.electronicgiant.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1339&osCsid=7f3522f3e5dc6caf7cc3a06a95133287   $200 + $20 shipping

i was told the planet audio one is really good, and just looking at the stuff its 59 bucks more then us acoustics but i would get 150 more rms out of it also.  the plannet audio one would needed to be tuned down for my subs, but the acousitcs sub wouldn't even fully power it...

plz let me know of any other good amps  i could look into :D

i already ran the power cable and rcas next to eachother.... how much distortion will that cause? and im unplugging my subs from my room now that im gonna put them into my car :D 

im going to have to try out my subs somewhere, before i go buying amps and stuff :D  not really sure where tho.... (are there alot of places that you take in subs and test them?? )  cuz im not sure if im going to be able to get over to a buddys house very soon...

---is the remote for the amp very usefull? anyone have/use one? because the planet audio had it as optional and the 600D came with one.... how does it work? can you max your subs with volume 1 or can u just turn it up/down at the current volume?

hey yo waddup hheheh i have some questions as well

i have two 6x9'z hooked up to the head unit

and two 10" subs hooked up to this 1 amp

now heres wat i need help on if u plz

i wanan add another amp, a 400 watt DHD 2 channel amp

i would like for that amp to power the 6x'9z only.

how woiuld i be able to do this? what do i need to buy?

if u could help me plz

first make sure you have after market speakers and that they can handle alot of wattage :D

i would recomend just wireing the second amp up seperatly.   im not sure if you can splice the power cord or if you have to run a new one (im guessing you need a new one) but you can splice the remote and splice/buy Y cables for the rcas....  hooking the amps together wouldnt be very smart because you cant power subs and normal speakers with the same very low bass....  your 6x9s would blow before your subs started moving :(

first make sure you have after market speakers and that they can handle alot of wattage :D

i would recomend just wireing the second amp up seperatly.   im not sure if you can splice the power cord or if you have to run a new one (im guessing you need a new one) but you can splice the remote and splice/buy Y cables for the rcas....  hooking the amps together wouldnt be very smart because you cant power subs and normal speakers with the same very low bass....  your 6x9s would blow before your subs started moving :(

Some things you may overlook when installing an amp! Works for radio installs too!

• Dont forget a fuse close to the battery for the power cable going to the amp...bout 30-50 amp fuse should be good for under 500 watts i think..This will keep your car from bursting into flames if anything goes wrong!  I think no more than 18 inches from the battery.  I would run a 4 gauge cable because everyone....eventually wants more...heh heh.  8 gauge is fine too if money is a factor...personally i wouldn't go any smaller than 8 guage for one amp.
• Dont forget to use grommets(rubber round circles) wherever you go through metal, like betweent he enginebay and the car's interior...
• you can also use rubber hose like the kind you can get at the autoparts store for vacumm.  Just split it in half, lengthwise and put it over any sharp edges...this is to keep your wires from chaffing( getting cuts in it)
• Run rca's as far possible from power wires to avoid noise.....not tooo important for subs though....so i wouldn't stress about it if you've already run the cable.  But as soon as you can...i would reroute the rcas or power to the other side of the car.  example:  run power along driverside and rca's along passenger side of car...or visa vera.
• Use the same guage wire for power and ground! 

That's bout all i can spit out at the moment...will post more if i remember something else i forgot

wow thanks SDmustang :D

fuse (check)

run though a grommet (check)

rubber hose thing (forgot to put it on.... oops )

rcas away from the power (havnt even bought an amp so this isnt a big concern )

same guage power as ground (check)

amp (not yet.... ) someone tell me what to buy!!!!!!! or else im going with the planet audio one :D (tell me if this is good too... i want a responce!!! ) lol

ok i think thats enouph info for me :D im gonna buy the 600 rms and hope my subs work :D  if they dont ill just have to buy a really big sub :D

--to bad they cant handle 2 ohms.... bridged atleast...

PS: post if you know a good + cheaper amp i could buy!!! i can still change my mind...

waddup relic try the 1000 sony watt amp 2 channel

its at 500 rms i think but yeah its pretty bomb it blew off my trunk ahhah ^_^

SDmustang21 wrote:

---

Some things you may overlook when installing an amp! Works for radio installs too!

• Dont forget a fuse close to the battery for the power cable going to the amp...bout 30-50 amp fuse should be good for under 500 watts i think..This will keep your car from bursting into flames if anything goes wrong!  I think no more than 18 inches from the battery.  I would run a 4 gauge cable because everyone....eventually wants more...heh heh.  8 gauge is fine too if money is a factor...personally i wouldn't go any smaller than 8 guage for one amp.
• Dont forget to use grommets(rubber round circles) wherever you go through metal, like betweent he enginebay and the car's interior...
• you can also use rubber hose like the kind you can get at the autoparts store for vacumm.  Just split it in half, lengthwise and put it over any sharp edges...this is to keep your wires from chaffing( getting cuts in it)
• Run rca's as far possible from power wires to avoid noise.....not tooo important for subs though....so i wouldn't stress about it if you've already run the cable.  But as soon as you can...i would reroute the rcas or power to the other side of the car.  example:  run power along driverside and rca's along passenger side of car...or visa vera.
• Use the same guage wire for power and ground! 

That's bout all i can spit out at the moment...will post more if i remember something else i forgot < language=>postamble();

---

 yeah thats good suggestion

but my car RCA's and the ground and hot wire are all together lolz all on the driver passenger side i have no time in changing it to the way u suggested, but i really liked it. i should have thought of that. also i have a questions for the rca's

the rca is the wire that comes from the head unit to the amp correct?

its the wire that has a "L" and a "R" that plugs into 1 amp correct?

i wanted to know how i can hook that up into 2 amps? cuz i plan on using 2 amps but not sure how to wire them up . if there a diagram that u can show me how this is done plez post it

ok your right about the rcas bang bang... L and R (white and red normaly) theres two easy ways you can run it to two amps...

1. cut the ends and there will be 4 wires..... (2 each) splice them and add 2 more ends

2. buy cheap Y connecters that basicly split it without any cutting or anything ( this is probubly the best way to go because cutting and reconnecting and all that stuff can end up with bad connections.... )

you don't  have to spend a load of money on Y conneters eather.  Radio Shack has decent ones that are even gold plated for less than most car audio store would sell.  Just make sure there twisted.

is twisted copper better then solid copper?? because i have my whole room wired with wire thats not really even speaker wire... its SOLID copper.... thick too.  im guessing its 18 guage.

it sounds good, but would i be getting better Quality if i got twisted "speaker wire" instead?

Go with the US Acoustics amp class D amp if you just want the subs you have right now temporarliy, and then later upgrade to something like the (awseome) JL W0 subs. This amp would be perfect for these. If you dont plan on going with new subs like the JL's soon then i guess you could go with the US Acoustics amp. Planet Audio is good also but for the old subs you have right now you shouldnt need to spend more money then is needed. I have my rca cables running next to my + power cable that goes to the battery all the way to my head-unit in my suburban. I havnt had any problems with noise. It shouldnt be on the top of your car audio to-do-list, unless you have problems with noise. Every car or truck is different though, so next time you do an install I would run them seperately just incase(no one likes to run rca cables twice).

well i consitered the acoustics 600d amp but that is only 200 x 1 rms, the planet audio amp is 600 x 1 (3 times bigger ) for 70 dollars more.  i consitered the 2 channel us acoustics amp that was 450 x 1 rms; this amp is 150 bucks but i think if i plan to upgrade ill still keep the 2 subs i have already.... just buy a bigger 3rd one :D

both the planet audio and the second us acoustics amps are 2 channel bridgeable....  correct me if im wrong but a 2 channel bridgable amp puts out more RMS then a mono amp, so why would you buy a mono amp if you could buy a good 2 channel??? 

i think im going to order the planet audio amp tonight :D