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Sub Box?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=42489
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 4:36 AM


Topic: Sub Box?

Posted By: NAT_87
Subject: Sub Box?
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 5:41 AM

Hi peps, i have been given a Audiobahn sub (AW120T) and want to make a box for it.

It is a 12" 500RMS sub

I would prefer it to have a cu. ft volume of 1.6 or greater, it is a single vc sub. If there is anything else you need to know just ask. If there is anyone out there who can give me a bluprint of a box for this aplication let me know!! Muchly appreciated!

Cheers



-------------
       ~* Cheer Nat *~
Pioneer DEH-7650MP
Pioneer TS-C160R
Pioneer TS-A6990S
Pioneer GM-6000F 4ch Amp
Audiobahn AW120T 12" Sub
Pioneer GM-D510M Mono Amp
AERPRO 1F Capacitor



Replies:

Posted By: Rushman
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 10:08 AM
what kind of car do you have? where do you intend to install it? Are you looking to get High SPL (Sound Pressure Level) or high SQ?(Sound Quality) The difference could mean either a sealed box or a vented ported box. What kind of amp are you pushing the sub with?

-------------
99 F-one fitty
Pioneer Premier H/U
Alpine EQ
Kicker 1200 amp
4 Kicker comp 10s
6 kicker SS65.2 components




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 10:48 AM
Download and use WinISDPro.  It has that driver listed in its database with box size.  You'll see that it takes a smaller box than 1.6 ft^3, and in fact, looks like it won't do well in a larger enclosure.  That's not a SPL sub, and doesn't qualify as SQ either.  It has an excursion Xmax of 10mm, so don't expect great volume.  But you should be able to get good complimentary low bass out of it with a modest system.  You should get best results ported in a slightly smaller enclosure, but run it through either that program or another and look at it yourself.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: NAT_87
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 4:06 PM

Hi, thanks for that. I am thinking about using a Pioneer GM-D510M Mono Amp to go with the amp. I am going to put it into a '00 Daewoo Lanos and would prefur the box to be vented to keep the temp down near the amps.

I have had a look at that site you gave me STEVDART and put in all the parametres and that means nothing to me sorry. Im hoping that there is some one out there who use that program to work out a the design of the box. I can give you all the specs that any program will ask  for, its just i cant interperate that to mean anything.

Let me know if you need anything else, or if ya have something for me!

THANKZ HEAPS!!!



-------------
       ~* Cheer Nat *~
Pioneer DEH-7650MP
Pioneer TS-C160R
Pioneer TS-A6990S
Pioneer GM-6000F 4ch Amp
Audiobahn AW120T 12" Sub
Pioneer GM-D510M Mono Amp
AERPRO 1F Capacitor




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 4:24 PM
The site I gave you has a section of downloads over to the right.  Pick WinISD Pro.  It's free and relatively easy to use.  Take your time and get to know it a little.  That sub is already loaded in the database, as I said earlier, and all you have to do is click on it to get the recommended box and port size for whatever volume you want to use.  I looked at it with that program to give you the info posted above.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 4:40 PM
I dont understand the line "would prefur the box to be vented to keep the temp down near the amps" What does this mean and do you understand what venting a box means? Im not being an ass I just dont know if you comprehend

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer




Posted By: NAT_87
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 4:46 PM
Yea i know what its about, but a mate has a vented box, and has the vents facing in the direction of his amps, so with the expulsion of air out of the box it get pushed towards the amps. that is all i meant by that posted_image

-------------
       ~* Cheer Nat *~
Pioneer DEH-7650MP
Pioneer TS-C160R
Pioneer TS-A6990S
Pioneer GM-6000F 4ch Amp
Audiobahn AW120T 12" Sub
Pioneer GM-D510M Mono Amp
AERPRO 1F Capacitor




Posted By: Alpine Guy
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 5:21 PM
whell if your amps are hot in the first place then something is seriously wrong.

-------------
2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.




Posted By: Rushman
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 6:03 PM
ok Nat_87..........Im kinda new to the WinISDPro program myself so I kinda used your topic as a practice run. Anyway from what I gather if you build your box to these dimensions , It should get the best sound from that woofer. Inside dimensions should be 12.25" X 12.25" X 16" Your Port tube should be about 2.5" round and 8.25" in length. Your box will be tuned at 32.96Hz. Remember those are INSIDE dimensions and to concider wood thickness and such. Now this is only the 3rd or 4th time Ive used the program so if anyone would care to double check my work , please do ! ! Oh and the box dimensions can change as long as the internal volume equals 1.37' cubic feet. I know you Pro's are looking this over , go easy on me......lol

-------------
99 F-one fitty
Pioneer Premier H/U
Alpine EQ
Kicker 1200 amp
4 Kicker comp 10s
6 kicker SS65.2 components




Posted By: NAT_87
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 6:37 PM

Ok, thanks for all your help. Next question, when i have the specs for the box and hav it all cut out, what/ if any stuff should i use to put inside the box. I have heard a few things, ranging from some sort of coating to cover the inside of the box, to putting foam or some sort of filling inside.? What does you the more experienced people think on this matter?

Cheers



-------------
       ~* Cheer Nat *~
Pioneer DEH-7650MP
Pioneer TS-C160R
Pioneer TS-A6990S
Pioneer GM-6000F 4ch Amp
Audiobahn AW120T 12" Sub
Pioneer GM-D510M Mono Amp
AERPRO 1F Capacitor




Posted By: NAT_87
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 6:49 PM

STEVDART- when you say 'But you should be able to get good complimentary low bass out of it with a modest system. ' What would you discribe as a modest system?

Mine is set up as following:

Pioneer TS-A6990S 5way 400w 6x9z

Pioneer TS-C160R 6" splits

Pioneer GM-6000F 4ch. amp running the above speakers

Audiobahn AW120T 12" 500RMS Sub (was a present posted_image )

Pioneer GM-D510M mono amp running the above sub

& a AERPRO 1 Farad Capacitor

So what does everyone think? will it complement the rest of the system?

Cheers!



-------------
       ~* Cheer Nat *~
Pioneer DEH-7650MP
Pioneer TS-C160R
Pioneer TS-A6990S
Pioneer GM-6000F 4ch Amp
Audiobahn AW120T 12" Sub
Pioneer GM-D510M Mono Amp
AERPRO 1F Capacitor




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 7:17 PM

Yes, that should be fine.  I just meant that because the specs for the sub say it is 500 watts RMS, the parameters really don't put it in the catategory of "monster sub" capable of deafening SPL.  So expect some good low bass, but don't expect to rock the block.

As for the port size, the opening is important, as too small of an opening will cause chuffing sounds as air is expelled.  A good rule is no less than 25% of sub diameter, although I wouldn't go less than 4".  Note that the port length grows when the opening gets bigger, but ports can be built with a bend inside the box.  As always, the bigger the port the more it displaces air in the chamber, so the box has to grow to compensate.

Look at it on WinIsd, Nat.  It is one of only a handful of familiar sub brands that are included in the database, and that's why I'm pushing it on you so hard.  It means you don't have to type in all the parameters because they're already there.  You just select "new project", select your sub from the scroll down menu, and click through each window.  The program has determined the best design based on the sub parameters.  You look at that first, and then if the size doesn't work for you, play with changing things and let the program adjust to the changes.  I would recommend using what the program determines for that particular sub, because the enclosure is small enough to be easy to work with.



-------------
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: heavilymedicate
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 9:05 PM

I guess you already have a decent deck?  I like it, looks like a good entry level system, that sub should really fill in your bottom end and I'm glad your putting real power to your components and 6x9's (ewww 6x9's).  Should be loud and clear.





Posted By: Rushman
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 9:20 PM
Thanks again Stevdart.............I know this was for NAT but was educational for me as well like learning to use about 25% of a subs diameter for port size and alowing for bends in the port tube. I was curious about that since the WinISD said that a 4" tube should be about 20" for that sub. I was thinking thats a long box for just the one sub but now I know you can bend the tube , if I understood you correctly on that.

-------------
99 F-one fitty
Pioneer Premier H/U
Alpine EQ
Kicker 1200 amp
4 Kicker comp 10s
6 kicker SS65.2 components




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 9:33 PM
Yeah you  did, Rushman.  That's where PVC comes in so handy for making tubes.  I would think to take the overall parameters of the sub into consideration, as well as the number that are occupying a box.  This sub has a small Xmax, so it's not going to be pushing the air that a lot of other subs would.  A 3" would probably work fine for it.  Whereas some subs would work best with a slotted port because it's easier to get the port volume needed.  And multiple subs in a chamber sometimes should use two or more ports.  There is a calculator that I've looked at that gives outrageous figures for minimum port size....... here.  I can't imagine getting to what is suggested there in most cases.  Here is a long list of calculators and equations you might want to bookmark.  There are a few equations (not calculators) for minimum port diameter but I'm not so mathematically inclined to try to figure them out.....yet.

-------------
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: Rushman
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 10:04 PM

Yeah this is what I too have been looking for with those box formula's. Up until now I just used the info that comes on the spec sheet from the manufactor of subs and kinda filled in the blanks the best I could. I usually came out pretty good but now with those formula's , I can narrow it down to a more exact science. Hopefully to maximize a speakers potential. Im half a$$ tempted to spend some time in the shop this weekend and experiment now with the formula's. (Especialy with PVC ports). BTW......Thanks again for you and everyone else's time and experience to help me take this game to the next level for me. Props to All yall Dawgs !



-------------
99 F-one fitty
Pioneer Premier H/U
Alpine EQ
Kicker 1200 amp
4 Kicker comp 10s
6 kicker SS65.2 components




Posted By: NAT_87
Date Posted: November 09, 2004 at 12:49 AM

Ok, thanks for all your help. Next question, when i have the specs for the box and hav it all cut out, what/ if any stuff should i use to put inside the box. I have heard a few things, ranging from some sort of coating to cover the inside of the box, to putting foam or some sort of filling inside.? What does you the more experienced people think on this matter?

Cheers



-------------
       ~* Cheer Nat *~
Pioneer DEH-7650MP
Pioneer TS-C160R
Pioneer TS-A6990S
Pioneer GM-6000F 4ch Amp
Audiobahn AW120T 12" Sub
Pioneer GM-D510M Mono Amp
AERPRO 1F Capacitor




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 09, 2004 at 7:32 AM
For a vented enclosure, put nothing else in it.  Use MDF and seal the driver and port into it, and leave the rest of the inside alone.  With large capacity subs, sometimes deadening spray is used on the inside along with ample bracing.  But bracing is more important than anything else inside the box.

-------------
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: boxmaker85
Date Posted: November 09, 2004 at 10:13 AM

Yeah if your box is made to good specifications then you don't really need polyfill or a liner.  One normally sees it with sealed boxes that may come up a tad small or it is possibly lined with it to prevent a standing wave forming inside a box.





Posted By: NAT_87
Date Posted: November 09, 2004 at 4:02 PM
heavilymedicate wrote:

I guess you already have a decent deck?  I like it, looks like a good entry level system, that sub should really fill in your bottom end and I'm glad your putting real power to your components and 6x9's (ewww 6x9's).  Should be loud and clear.


LOL, i just read this just now sorry. My deck is a Pioneer DEH-P7650MP it has 3 prevolt outputs etc, its like 2nd or 3rd from the top. :D And also what do you have against 6x9z, these ones a sick they go so hard, if i had them in b4 i decided to put in the sub too i would not hav worried bout the sub. lol

So would i worry about bracing? And if so how do i go about doing that? when you say bracing do you mean like little corner bracket thingies posted_image .

Cheers!



-------------
       ~* Cheer Nat *~
Pioneer DEH-7650MP
Pioneer TS-C160R
Pioneer TS-A6990S
Pioneer GM-6000F 4ch Amp
Audiobahn AW120T 12" Sub
Pioneer GM-D510M Mono Amp
AERPRO 1F Capacitor




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 09, 2004 at 5:02 PM
https://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&q=subwoofer+enclosure+bracing

-------------
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.





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