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94 Cadillac Seville STS Bose Gold

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=43762
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 10:20 AM


Topic: 94 Cadillac Seville STS Bose Gold

Posted By: mrb71
Subject: 94 Cadillac Seville STS Bose Gold
Date Posted: November 25, 2004 at 11:01 AM

Alright Im what you would call a semi-pro level installer which intels that I have done numerous installs but still majorly learning...  I have a 94 Cadillac Seville STS with a bose gold stereo sound system.  My question is that I am going to go after market DVD in to factory location and use the factory speakers which in turn I know have the amps on them.   Now the aftermarket head unit of coarse has power output so  you can send power into power...  So what module is needed for this car to make this install work?  Also I am understanding that I need a bypass of some sort because there are other things that run through the factory head unit.   Can all you gurus who have done installs on this vehicle and similar give me a little schooling on this matter...

Thanks!




Replies:

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: November 25, 2004 at 12:12 PM
In the past I have just re-wired new speaker wire straight to the Bose speakers. Take a little longer, but alot less problems afterwards and I think it sounds better in the end, rather than using double amplified power to the speakers.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: mrb71
Date Posted: November 25, 2004 at 12:57 PM
Velocity Motors...  but arnt the amps attached right to the speakers with the Bose Gold setup?  Are you able to detach them still leaving a working speaker?




Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: November 25, 2004 at 1:50 PM
use a PIE Bose differential converter

-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979




Posted By: mrb71
Date Posted: November 26, 2004 at 12:15 PM

kgerry that sounds like it would be the easiest way eh..  The interface just plugs into the factory wire harness of the car and the high level on the converter wires into the aftermarket radio eh?   Am I right  on this?  Does this unit help keep the sound quality clean?





Posted By: D'Ecosse
Date Posted: November 26, 2004 at 12:51 PM

If you buy a head unit with RCA Pre-outs, you should be able to connect these directly to the Bose amp inputs without any problems - jusy use an adapter from RCA to the hard wire connections.

If you use a harness adapter (I get mine at https://.../caudio-install-harness.html ) and splice that your harness from your new head, with some RCA pigtails spliced up to match the OEM O/P connections, you will get a really neat install with no hacking of the original wiring.

If you don't have RCA pre-outs (unlikely) and need to use amplified outs form the new head, then get a pac audioOEM1 (or similar) adapter. https://www.pac-audio.com/oem1kits/oem1search.htm

Their applications guide shows the different connection options you might be considering. You can a kit specifically for your Seville if you like.





Posted By: mrb71
Date Posted: November 26, 2004 at 3:57 PM
D'Ecosse now there is a couple of options worth exploring...  It would seem by going the site that the Pac audio roem be a plug and play type situation.  Althought going with the rca pigtail would you still need another harness to plug into the factory harness for that set up to work?  I mean if Im understanding that setup right you would connect the rca's to the new aftermarket deck preouts and then hard wire a harness to plug into the factory harness...   Im I right or misunderstanding?




Posted By: D'Ecosse
Date Posted: November 26, 2004 at 6:28 PM

Sounds pretty close mrb71 - you buy the harness adapter from million buy, and wire that up to the new harness from the new head unit to deal with your power, antenna, ; then you splice RCA jacks onto the million buy, with the "free" ends of the wires connected to the apprpriate pin locations that feed hook up to the bose feeds (you shoudl get a diagram with the plug from Million Buy. )

With the Pac Audio unit, you will end up with virtually a 1-1 ratio anyway and it's muh more expensive option. (It's really intended to line condition down from amplified outputs down to line levels when there are no RCA pre-outs on the head)

I've tried both methods with a similar Bose system (Acura NSX, not Cadillac) & the only thing you are getting is some transformer isolation. If you find you have any "popping" then just use a ground loop isolator between the head RCA outs & your new RCA "in"s.  It worked fine without either the pac audio or the GLI in my case.

https://www.bcae1.com/glisoltr.htm

https://.../hithnf20.html

Here's what you should end up with below .... the black plug was from a Sony HU and the white is the MillionBuy adapter; the RCA's are just a single pair of cables with the ends cut off to give 4 "pigtails; just wire up the center signal & ground to the appropriate wires on the Million Buy adapter. I also added a good solid ground wire to connect to chassis.

Plug the white spocket into your factory harness, the black one into your HU, the RCA's into the appropriate Outputs &  it should work perfectly!

posted_imageI





Posted By: D'Ecosse
Date Posted: November 26, 2004 at 6:48 PM

Sorry about all the typo's - I'm a dyslecsic typist!  posted_image

Being a Newbie, it won't let me edit   posted_image

If there are any more questions regarding, please let me know. I have a 94 STS myself and that's what drew me to the post - the Bose is very similar to the setup in my Acura too however, although the Bose stuff is all ripped out of that now.

You should be prepared for amp failures before long with the Bose amp/speaker modules - I have three cars which all utilized these - the NSX, Nissan 300ZXTT and the Caddy - the NSX & TT have had failures although the Caddy is still holding up.  You can get replacement or repairs on the modules though, or even do it yourself if you are handy with a soldering iron and not tentative about working on PCB's - the capacitors are the weak link.

Good Luck!





Posted By: mrb71
Date Posted: November 26, 2004 at 7:05 PM

D'Ecosse your the best man!  I know this install will rock with bros like you at my side...  I think you should go ahead and upgrade the Caddy of yours as well and make this a team effort getting two birds with one stone!  By the way how is your caddy running?  Have you had any major problems with yours?  As too I just bought this one for a second car. 

Thanks a million & keep in touch!

Ps dont worry about the typos bro as to we are in the same boat when it comes to that!  LOL





Posted By: D'Ecosse
Date Posted: November 26, 2004 at 9:04 PM

(Sorry for anyone else as this is off-topic)

I bought the caddy new in '94 - it now has 156K miles on it.

Through 100K, the only things I had to replace were "consumables" - tires, batteries, (It seems to eat batteries, always has!)  brake pads, plugs, oil changes, belts etc; - only non-consumable was a couple of brackets for the rear sway bar - they broke within about 5K miles of each other but only ~ $5 apiece.

Since then over last 4 years or so I've replaced: Transmission shift solenoids ($30 parts, $300 labour); Alternator; A/C compressor; steering pump; water pump; fuel pump; Plug Wires -twice! (got good ones the last time - Magnecors - the OEM's & replacement were lighting up like Xmas tree!) Front struts (with passives). Everything except the shift solenoids I've done myself. I  got real lucky with the fuel pump - it was on "E" pretty much so wasn't too bad to drop the tank!

Motor is still going real strong - it's been on Mobil 1 since day 1.

Not too bad in all I guess - pretty good averagein costs for 156K miles over 10 years!





Posted By: mrb71
Date Posted: November 26, 2004 at 10:43 PM
D'Ecosse  thats cool because just about everyone else that I have talk to had to replace the motor for reason of blow head gaskets..  I also come to find out that these NorthStar engines are notorious for leaking oil from the oil pan which by the way you have to remove the engine to fix...  Well getting back to the orginal post I think you should upgrade your HU in the caddy so that we can do this together each step of the way...  :)




Posted By: D'Ecosse
Date Posted: November 26, 2004 at 10:51 PM

Hahah- no, I'll keep the Caddy as-is for now; all my "fun" audio projects went into the NSX.

https://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40146

But I've done virtualy the same thing on both the NSX & the ZXTT - it'll work, don't worry!

The ZXTT had the PAC Audio originally, because its new head had no pre-outs. But I ditched the BOSE amp/speakers when the amps blew and wored regular 4 ohm speakers & just used the head amp O/P's, so didn't need teh PAC Audio any more.

I have a full external amp set-up now in the NSX, but it has gone through several iterations along the way, including using stock head into after-market amp & speakers; I  also made the adapter in the pic above for someone who used a Sony head with stock Bose amps/speakers - it worked fine, so you should experience the same.





Posted By: mrb71
Date Posted: December 01, 2004 at 4:40 PM
D'Ecosse that is an awesome install bro!!!   Nice ride by the way  too!!!





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