Dimensions for Two 12" Adire Audio Shivas
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=44164
Printed Date: April 29, 2024 at 6:57 AM
Topic: Dimensions for Two 12" Adire Audio Shivas
Posted By: Klapping
Subject: Dimensions for Two 12" Adire Audio Shivas
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 7:09 PM
For 2 shivas. in a sealed box because i dont think i can make a ported one. (sorry for that 10 page topic, i wasnt ignoring you guys. i was just confused.) But ya, knowing the cubic feet wont help me much. what would be the actual dimensions...
as in the 2 front and back panels.
the 2 side panels
and the top and bottom panels.
AND the mid section panel...
for 2, Adire Audio shivas. 12"
Replies:
Posted By: kfr01
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 7:18 PM
Have you decided on what Q you are shooting for? Read the Shiva sealed application pdf and come back and tell us.
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New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 7:23 PM
what do you mean Q? ... i dont know what that means. =/
Posted By: audiobass10
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 7:26 PM
www.bcae1.com Read a little bit, then read some more..after you think you have a tight grasp on it..read it again. That site will show you how the volume of the box relates to the dimensions, along with many other helpful things you should know. ------------- Dave
Pioneer Premier DEH-P660
15" Kicker CVR
Profile AP1000M
It's Loud
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 7:30 PM
for a sealed box what cubic feet am i looking at?
Posted By: kfr01
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 7:30 PM
Klapping, Good lord! For the last freaking time.. READ THE FREAKING SHIVA SEALED APPLICATION PDF. IT HAS THE EFFECT OF Q RIGHT THERE.. IT EVEN HAS GRAPHS IF YOU ARE TOO FREAKING LAZY TO READ! ------------- New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 7:48 PM
Dude people were recomending different cubic feet than what was listen on the pdf. that is why i am asking for what you guys recomend. i was told differently by steven kephert.
Posted By: kfr01
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:06 PM
No, Steven was recommending a high Q design, THAT THE PDF TALKS ABOUT. He even told you exactly how many cubic feet he thinks you should go with. Jesus. Did you even read his response? Come back and tell us how many cubic feet he recommended once you reread his post AND the freaking pdf. If you tell me why he recommended the Q and size that he did I'll help you with the dimensions. ------------- New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:07 PM
OK, I have read quite a bit of all of these pages and pages and PAGES of posts by Klapping. Let me ask you this - what kind of response are you looking for? Do you want sound quality? Do you want loud? What do you want? A little bit of both - just realize ou CAN NOT have both and be the best with either. Be VERY specific, Klapping, and let's see what we can come up with for you. FORGET THE ENCLOSURE FOR RIGHT NOW... Just answer my question. What are your priorities in your subwoofer application?
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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: /R7
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:11 PM
he wants insane bass, no SQ, the farther you can hear him from his car the better, elaborated response to what he said on page9 or 10, maybe 8, i lost count.
his best option would have been a ported enclosure, but he doesnt want to doit.
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:13 PM
....aside: /r7 knows him better than he knows himself!
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:15 PM
i want it loud... but not with rediculous sound quality... i want it to be heard... like most car audio people look for...
and kfr01 ... if i remember correctly steven recommended a 1.2 cubic foot enclosure... and YES i read that link you just posted... I read everything about enclosures that it had... besides all the angle enclosure stuff... and played with the calculators... but i cant find a calculator to enter the cubic feet and get dimensions from, or anything in that nature... i am trying dude... if you can find me a calculator to figure out sum nice demensions with the cubic feet i will be glad to punch in the numbers, and figure it out... but i currently dont have one... thnx
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:17 PM
not funny... but, yes i want it loud. Louder than my pos sony xplods that i have in it currently...
dont hate on me, just because i was being a little suborn...
i am willing to learn. just all the links never made any sense to me... besides this last one posted...
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:19 PM
AND... Making a ported box would be even more trouble for me, sinse i am a n00b at this enclosure building stuff. I dont have the tubes needed... dont know the demensions or the holes, etc. and i really dont have the right tools to make holes.
Posted By: kfr01
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:22 PM
So, you really just want us to do your math on a 1.2ft^3 enclosure for you?
I believe stevdart said in the last long post that the damn calculator you need is right on the left side of this page under "Volume Calculators."
What you're being isn't a little stubborn, it's flat out lazy. If you have your license you've had basic math. That's all you need to do this yourself.
-------------
New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
Posted By: /R7
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:23 PM
make slot ported box, if i remember correctly you eliminate the need for a tube.
and klapping, drawing a diagram once you figure out whats needed for the enclosure, following directions and the diagram are not hard. it takes patience, dont expect this done in an afternoon. and if its one thing you have, its time.
Posted By: astro88
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:25 PM
28 3/4 wide......14" high......14" deep with 3/4mdf 2.3962 cuft, dont forget the divider in the middle,its included in the calculations, thats bout 1.2 each..........................Please stop,lol
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:30 PM
the box i have right now is a slot port... well, was... till i knocked out 2 walls, and closed the slot... i could fix it back to what it was? ... or make it a little smaller, or bigger... it is like 1.4 cubic feet i think... for each chamber...
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:33 PM
...28 3/4 wide......14" high......14" deep with 3/4mdf 2.3962 cuft, dont forget the divider in the middle,its included in the calculations, thats bout 1.2 each..........................Please stop,lol...
k astro... The box i have currently is:
Depth - 13.5
Height - 14"
Length - 32"
could i just, reduce the length about 4 inches? ... and make a mid divider centered... wouldnt that be almost, the same thing?
Posted By: /R7
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:36 PM
i am willing to learn. just all the links never made any sense to me...
did it make sense to come to a forum and ask questions about box sizes, or where to find a box maker online?
if it did, why didnt it make sense to ask a question about anything you didnt understand on the website. i will agree not everyone learns the same or by the same example. we will impart the information we can on anything car related (or to each respective forum on this board), if you dont understand something on any of those links, come back, ask "what does this mean? i dont understand xx part of it."
that way we know where your having trouble, and we wont assume your just trying to be a lazy ass and wanting sh** done for you right now.
on a side note, have you thought about how you will wire your setup yet? and have you thought if your amp is capable of the load you are going to put on it, and do you understand howto crossover the sub properly, or setting the gain (turning it as far as it goes doesnt quite work, with most amps)
even if you have the box, sub, amp, and wires, thats not even 1/2 of it, you still have to consider what i mentioned about, and though you dont need to, sub position is also another factor to consider. the sound waves from the sub greatly affect how the sub will sound when faced a certain way.
these are things we havent even started on, and these are things you will have to learn, because there isnt an online guy you can pay to do this for you. unless you want to pay me 50c a kilometer (im canadian, can you tell?... eh) and i'd gladdy drive down there and spend an hour attempting all of the above for you. i wouldnt charge what some of our professional memebers here would, a simple 24 of budweiser and a nice dooby and we'll call it even. and the milage back to canada ;-). just jokes there, but im just trying to tell you, that you gotta learn a lot more than your willing to learn now because in the end you'll be paying someone an excessive amount of money for a job that is easily done with a little bit of will power, patience, understanding, and help from us here.
thats what the boards for, why not take advantage of everything and become better knowledged about these things. even myself, i have a hard time learning certain things, hell i never graduated, but thats another topic. the point is, even if i dont understand everything i will attempt, and attempt and attempt until i reach my limit where if it means hurting the hardware (amp/sub) then i consult a specialist and let them deal with it.
on a side note: if you considered having someone install this for you from a bestbuy, look over their install, not all people take 'care' in what they do. i had wires running from my front to back under my carpet, but it was visibly exsposed to the floor, and i would hate for a wire to frey and water damage to occur, now i have to rip my rear seat and side panels off of interior of the car, to fix this lack of care install.
Posted By: audiobass10
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:40 PM
Length (times) Width (times) heigth (divided by) 1728 will give you your cubic feet. I wrote out times and divided by just so no confusion would be involved..you can do a little guessing and checking to figure the dimensions...you also have to factor in speaker and port displacement. ------------- Dave
Pioneer Premier DEH-P660
15" Kicker CVR
Profile AP1000M
It's Loud
Posted By: /R7
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:42 PM
Klapping wrote:
the box i have right now is a slot port... well, was... till i knocked out 2 walls, and closed the slot... i could fix it back to what it was? ... or make it a little smaller, or bigger... it is like 1.4 cubic feet i think... for each chamber...
you would be better off disassembling the box and finding some use for the pieces you managed to safely scavange.
i dont know how you knocked those boards out, or if you saw'd through them. but you just affected the structural integrity of that box by doing so.
if you put it back in, there is 1 garuntee it will not be 100% percent. but i cant tell you if its an acceptable risk or not. in your case i dont know simply because the box was designed (to my assumption) for those sonys. and using it for 2 shivas will not give you a better result than a sealed enclosure to the size you could attain as you tried to do. i dont know the Cuft that is needed for the subs in a ported enclosure, but i know it wont be exactly or possibly close to what the sonys need.
thats all for now, i'll come back when my fingers have lost their numb feeling.
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:45 PM
klapping-Qwit talking about that box. The subject is dead. Here are two facts you should know: 1. 12 inches X 12 X 12 = 1728 cubic inches. That's three dimensions: width, length and height. So if a box were 12 inches on each dimension it would be a 1728 cubic inch box. 2. 1728 cubic inches equals 1 cubic foot. Cubic inches can be changed to cubic feet by dividing by 1728. Cubic feet can be changed to cubic inches by multiplying by 1728. So, if you want to figure out dimensions for a 1.2 cubic foot box, you would first change the box to cubic inches. (1.2 X 1728 = 2074 in^3) Now, start working that calculator. Keep trying different combinations of the three dimensions until you hit 2074. See if it fits in the car. If it does, you've got it. aside: damn, /r7. You can write a complete thesis in the time it takes me to write 4 lines! Insane typist.
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 8:53 PM
ok... What exactly does MDF stand for? i know it is wood. but what exactly... and how much does it run at home depot? ...
And stevdart, I get what you meant by that. I will try. If i have any troubles i will post... And i will post my demensions to make sure they are correct.
Posted By: astro88
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:01 PM
medium density fiberboard,
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:11 PM
ya i got the same as the other guy...
28" wide...
14" tall
14" deep...
it's 2.3962 cubes...
does mdf come like, in fat sheets? ...
so would i only need like 1 sheet? or a few?
Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:18 PM
They come in sheets that are 4 feet by 8 feet. And you can make that box by using one sheet. Just buy 1 sheet of wood and draw out ALL PIECES before you start cutting. Or if you want you can even pay home depot to cut the pieces out for you. Then all you need to do is glue it together, nail or screw the edges and cut out the holes. If you can handle that then you are done. ------------- double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:26 PM
Klapping wrote:
28" wide...
14" tall
14" deep...
it's 2.3962 cubes.
3.17 is what that is, if those numbers are internal measurements (you should always use internal). Double-check your math is the rule. Hell, I normally spend a week double-checking. Then I let it sit and double check again for good measure.
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:30 PM
28 wide
14 tall
14 deep
2.3962 eqauls that...
with .75 mdf...
Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:32 PM
LOL I didnt even check the numbers, If those were outside dimensions and those were external measurments of the box and you were using 3/4 inch wood and there was a divider, I figure it to be approx 1.35. Take 3 inchs off the long way and make it 25 inchs long and I think that gives you 1.21 cubic feet per side.
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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:39 PM
i went to the calculator on this site... Here and ya, i punched in 28, 14, 14, and .75 and it came out with 2.3962
Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:40 PM
28 x 14 = 392 x 14= 5488 divided by 1728 = 3.17592592592592592592592592592592592592592592592592.... .......................................... I hope you get the point. Check your math Socraties, you got it wrong. Even if you take out the .75 for the wood it comes out to 27.25 times 13.25 =361.0625 times 13.25 = 4784.078125 divided by 1728 = 2.768 then divide by 2 and you get 1.38428 If you wanna go so far as to subtract for the interior wall Ill do that to, that makes it 12.5 times 13.25 times .75 = .0718 so you subtract that from the previous 2.768 and you get 2.6962 which you divide by 2 and get 1.35. Your math was wrong, try again.
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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:42 PM
and jesus... a piece of mdf costs like 30 bucks or sumwere around there... according to my dad... and people sell boxes for 140 bucks? rediculous profit... lol
Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:43 PM
Thats definatly what comes out on the calculator, so mabye my math is wrong, feel free to double check it.
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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:44 PM
i didnt do the math, the calculator did... lol
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:46 PM
Astro came out with the same i did... but not 28, he got 28.75...
his post = 28 3/4 wide......14" high......14" deep with 3/4mdf 2.3962 cuft, dont forget the divider in the middle,its included in the calculations, thats bout 1.2 each..........................Please stop,lol
who is right? lol...
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:47 PM
o0o that is because he added the .75 divider in the middle...
so who is right, me, or you? ... i dont know... lol... maybe the calculator is off or sumthing?
Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:48 PM
Ya skippy. But a sheet is like 30 bucks, then between glue and nails add on like 5 bucks so that goes to 35 bucks. A basic box like what you want is probally around 120 bucks if you go to a shop. But even if its 140 subtract the 35 bucks and you are at 105. If the store pays the installer on a commision base then he probally makes somewhere between 40-50 percent. That means the net profit for the store is around 52.50. Thats assuming they arent carpeting the box for you because if the are then thats a whole new ball game. But for a store to make 50 bucks profit on a box is more than reasonable, how much do you think they make off that prefab sh*t you bought before, anywhere from 50-100 bucks. They are just keeping everything in line. And judging by the amount of trouble you are having building the box, obviously not everyone can do it.
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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:50 PM
Well I did mine step by step and wrote it all out so honestly, I know mine is right unless some of the adjustments I made are incorrect.
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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
Posted By: audiobass10
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:52 PM
Ravendarat, I'm with you on this one..3.18 is what i got...even considering 3/4 mdf i didn't come up with the number you got Klapping.
-------------
Dave
Pioneer Premier DEH-P660
15" Kicker CVR
Profile AP1000M
It's Loud
Posted By: kfr01
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:53 PM
Klapping wrote:
and jesus... a piece of mdf costs like 30 bucks or sumwere around there... according to my dad... and people sell boxes for 140 bucks? rediculous profit... lol
Ridiculous profit? What would you know about it? I doubt you've read any economics books lately. Some people on this board do installations, including building boxes for a living. Who are you to say the profit they take is ridiculous if the market is willing to pay it? ------------- New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 9:57 PM
i meant as in thates like more than triple what it costs to pay for the materials... which is a lot...
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 10:00 PM
well then, sense the calculator is wrong, can you guys come up with the right demensions for me? or is my lasy ass going to have to figure it out myself? =( ... lol
Posted By: audiobass10
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 10:03 PM
I agree kfr01..Klapping, you have to consider more than just the cost of supplies before you go off and call it ridiculous profit...Labor is the main issue when it comes down to having a shop install or build anything for you...you're taking their time..time is money..say the guy builds you the box for $75 and it takes him 3 hours..subtract 35 for supplies w/o carpeting..the shop makes $40 on the box..if the installer guy who builds the box gets 50% of the profit..... thats less than $7 an hour. The shop plus the installer would be getting screwed..$140 would be very reasonable for the kind of enclosure you're looking for. ------------- Dave
Pioneer Premier DEH-P660
15" Kicker CVR
Profile AP1000M
It's Loud
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 10:05 PM
bigdogaudio.com ... you can get a box carpeted for like 60 bucks shipped... my old box was... that place rocks...
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 10:11 PM
ok ....
26 x 12 x 13.5 = 2.4375 ...
that close enough? lol thats not including the midbrace thing...
so that is like... a lil under 1.2... hmmm...
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 10:14 PM
here...
26 x 12 x 13.75 = 2.482638889
if you take out the .75" mid divide... thats like...
damn near 1.2 cubes, isnt it?
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 10:18 PM
that would be...
26 long... i figure thats the lowest it can get... concidering... 12" x 2 for the subs... is 24" ... that leaves like a half inch on each side... wich is, small... and...
12" deep...
and 13.75" tall... that leaves a good... .875" on top and bottom of each sub... is that too close, or will that work?
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 10:19 PM
26" wide might even be, not enough... hmmm?...
I AM TRYING... lol
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 10:27 PM
also... wouldnt that be with the .75" for the wood? so it would be bigger than that, correct? wouldnt u like add .75 to each measurement...?
Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 10:39 PM
Can you please limit your posts. You are just running the threads up. Complete one entire thought before you hit the post button because this is getting insane
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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 10:39 PM
OK, this is the third time. Fair warning right now: I will give you the benefit of the doubt one last time and see if your posts seem to be on topc and that you are listening to the advice being given, but if it looks like what I think is happening is the case and you are simply doing these long threads for some sort of perverse pleasure, I'll ban you immediately. Fair enough? ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 10:41 PM
read what i have been posting... i have been on topic and listening... have i not?
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 10:44 PM
Guys, we're talking to a kid who has never had a job. WTF? Here's a challenge for you, kid. Get off the keyboard and go to the woodshop. Build a nice enclosure you would be proud to let your friends look at. Feel the soreness and numbing that comes with the hours spent in labor. Then feel the pride of building something that becomes the second half of great musical sound. Then come back here and tell us all about rediculous profit. Oh hell, again 6 posts go up by the time i'm finished........aaaaaaaahhhh. But time enough to add another fair warning: Klapper, just listen to DYohn and listen well. Arguments are not smart here.
Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 10:52 PM
OK, I am going to help you out here and I am begging you to please listen to me. Use the outside dimensions of 14 inchs high, 27 inchs long and 12 inchs deep. Make that box, and its gonna be close enough to your requirements. Use .75 inch thick MDF and glue all your pieces together and then secure it all using either screws or finishing nails. Its your choice. cut the holes in the box, but keep in mind that if yo are using 12's dont cut 12 inch holes or the subs will drop right through. Either use the provided template or check the spec sheet and it should give you a mounting diamater. I dont think I can make this any more clear. Now I think that you have all the info needed and am gonna say you should get one more post under this heading to ask any VALID questions you have left and then once those are answered this thread should be locked.
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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 11:14 PM
nobody is helping me with my calculations? ... i posted sum stuff, you guys said you would put your input on it... not a buncha childish remarks about me... look at my calculations on page 5... tell me if they are right, and what i have done wrong if they arent... and possibly correct them... because they are close, i think... ok? thnx =) and i just realized raven posted...
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 11:17 PM
what kinda glue should i use? ...
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: November 30, 2004 at 11:25 PM
and one other thing... the side pieces... dont they have to go inside the top,bottom,front,and back sides? ... and the middle brace also... so... do i make those 14 x 12 or... would i like, make them .75" shorter on each side?
Posted By: /R7
Date Posted: December 01, 2004 at 12:50 AM
if your box, by the measurments Raven gave you
Ravendarat wrote:
Use the outside dimensions of 14 inchs high, 27 inchs long and 12 inchs deep
make sure each side is equal to what he said.
there for if you make your longer sides 27inches wide from edge to edge. and you put your 12" deep pieces of wood inside, you will actually end up with 1 1/4 inches extra to each side, because? because your MDF is .75". so if you remove 1 1/4" from from the 12" deep pieces of wood, you will end up with a total of 12" including the .75" from each 27inch piece of mdf.
dont go into the shop do and do these cuts just based off of what we said, used the dimensions ravendarat gave you . go into the shop, draw diagrams, or blue prints, of what each cut will be, and how it will be put together.
ravendarat gave you exactly what you wanted from the first thread you created. and what upsets me, is that you probably will not go any further to learn the math, behind all this.
i would like to refer you to soundomain.com, where patience there seems a lot more limited. maybe you will re-read our advice when you get 2 replies, or 2pages of flames.
EDIT(yes this forum has that feature, try and use it once or twice, or 5 times to save the accumulation of partial thoughts or redundent posting, you've managed to attain 1/2 the amount of posts i have in only 7days, im amazed, and not in a good way): wood glue, or carpenter glue. its used for "wood applications" and it will have "wood" on the label or it will say its made for "wood", just make sure someone at the store, where you buy the "wood" glue, points out, that its for "wood".
i know you're probably acustom to the clear sticky glue used in school, and the editable white glue, wood glue is a little darker, yellow even, its not hard to distinguish.
remember. "wood"
edit1.5: Dont eat this glue.
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: December 01, 2004 at 1:00 AM
rofl... nice =)
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: December 01, 2004 at 1:13 AM
Ok just for confirmation, these are the cuts i need to make, correct?
2 - 14 x 27 (front and back panels)
2 - 12 x 27 (top and bottom panels)
2 - 12 x 14 (sides)
1 - 10.5 x 12.5 (mid divide)
And ya... 1.25? wouldnt it be 1.5 off on the middle brace? that is what i meant by taking off .75 off of each side of the middle board... riiight?
and what does "dont go into the shop do and do these cuts" mean? ... confused...
and please, correct me if i am wrong, in a ncie manner... thnx.
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: December 01, 2004 at 1:45 AM
yes... go build your box. Draw the lines on your material... measure twice, cut once. Your numbers ARE CORRECT... Use them. DO NOT WRITE OR READ ANY MORE POSTS... JUST GO BUILD YOUR BOX! Do not thank me or anybody else, do not question, do not pass go, do not collect 200 dollars - unless it is to go build your box. GET!
-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: December 01, 2004 at 9:55 PM
Ok i went to home depot... a 4 x 8 piece of mdf .75 costs 20 bucks... i then realized it wasnt gunna fit in my car... (i had 25 bucks on me) ... and ya, first 2 cuts are free... the rest from there on are 50 cents... a cut is, a whole board... by the way... but ya, i got the guy to cut it all... and it ended up costing 24.75... i got him to take it down to only 4 cuts. then... when i bought it i was like arent the first 2 free? ... and she was like o0o ok... so ya, got it barely... lol... but ya... brought it all home... (i still have like a fat piece left over...) but ya, tried to assemble it free hand... and realized i needed 1.75 off of one board... (because the guy cut it to 12.25 instead of 12.) but ya, so i needed to drop the top and bottom board, 1.50 inches... so they would fit inside of the top and bottom of the front and back panels... but ya, just finished trimming... and it fits snug as hell... but ya, what should i do to cut the 2 11" holes? ... and inform me if i am wrong, the holes are supposed to be 11 inches, right? and ya, i figure... find the exact middle of each half of the front panel... and stick a thumb tack a lil ways in, and get a 5.5 inch string, and attach it to the thumb tack, along with a pen on the end of the string... run it around in a circle, and thats where i need to cut, i think? ... and... what would i be able to cut the circle out with? any suggestions on a tool...? i have a sawzaw (sp) would that be the best for it? i am not sure... and i have limited cutting tools... help?
Posted By: audiobass10
Date Posted: December 01, 2004 at 10:04 PM
A jig saw should be sufficient. ------------- Dave
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Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: December 01, 2004 at 10:07 PM
the only jigsaw i have has a broken metal plate on the bottom... do the cutes have to be nice and smooth for the circles? ... or can it be kinda messy, but still work just as efficient? ... because if i used a skillsaw... it wouldnt be really really acurate and that smooth of a cut, but it will be relatively close... would that work?
Posted By: /R7
Date Posted: December 01, 2004 at 10:19 PM
just an idea klapping
before you cut your circles, find the center of each half the the box, by first dividing the box with a ruler/pen
into 2 squares, make and X in each box from corner to corner, as precise as possible, your tac idea should work, just make sure you measure that diameter later and triple check to make sure you arent off in any area of the circle.
once thats ready, i think your ready to drill your first hole, a hole big enough for the jigsaw blade, and then make your cut, a suggestion would be cut 'inside' of the circle, and later sand off the needed excess wood. just try not to go outside of the lines.
GL im glad you started it yourself. and are attempting it. you'll feel something warm inside when its all done and working right, some people call it pride, some people call it an addiction. either way you'll feel something good :-).
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: December 01, 2004 at 10:28 PM
lol... but, would a SkillSaw work?
Posted By: /R7
Date Posted: December 01, 2004 at 10:34 PM
i'll take the joke ;p, and not answer your question. i guess you wont have a co-op, and i cant tell you if home depot will rent tools out to you. i'd start asking your dad if he can help with tools from some of his friends. an afternoon would all it take for a couple holes (at most).
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: December 01, 2004 at 10:44 PM
If I remember correctly, a Skilsaw is a jigsaw. So yes it will work. And I make holes that way, too, using a nail and a measured length of twine tied to my pencil. Smaller holes, I use a compass. The edges don't have to be pretty....the speaker will make it look pretty once it's in place. Just be sure to leave enough wood for the screws to grab. And use speaker sealant caulk around the rim of the speaker for a good seal. You could also use plumber's putty as it stays pliable and can be removed later. Hint: make a test hole on a spare piece of lumber, anything you can get your hands on (but not the extra leaf from Mother's dining room table!).
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: December 01, 2004 at 10:51 PM
o0o oops... didnt mean skillsaw... rofl... ha... but i meant a SawZall... lol... ha... a skillsaw... that wouldnt be too pretty...
Posted By: Klapping
Date Posted: December 01, 2004 at 11:47 PM
i came up with my own idea... there is this circle, that attaches to a drill... it hads a drill bit in the middle, and its like a cup with teath... cuts a hole, ya kno? ... ya, i made holes all the way around in a circle... to 11"... so all left around the circle... was little triangles... so... i found this wire drill bit thing... eats the wood up like crazy... if u apply pressure... but i am smoothening all the triangles down to the circle... and making it all nice... works like magic... and i believe it is safer than doing it with a sawzall... in my opinion... but it works... lol... i got a perfect 11" circle now... i just gotta do the other one... i will tomarow... and i got to find a way to do the small holes for the terminal cup thing in the back... cuz i dont got one of them circles, small enough... any suggestions?
Posted By: gtchida
Date Posted: December 02, 2004 at 1:39 AM
Is this for real????
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