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capacitor problems

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=53389
Printed Date: June 02, 2024 at 2:24 PM


Topic: capacitor problems

Posted By: robfontelera
Subject: capacitor problems
Date Posted: April 06, 2005 at 12:15 PM

i have a 1.2 farad capacitor, and when i try to charge it, it charges up to 10.x volts than it just stops charging.  i tried to discharge it and try charging it again, but it did the same thing.  i thought it would be my car so i tried one of my other cars to charge it and it did the same thing.

i used a resitor the first time, than switched to a test light the next few times.....both unsuccessful.  the cap is grounded to the chassis and it is a good ground.......dont know what i'm doing wrong....

help please.....




Replies:

Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: April 06, 2005 at 2:14 PM
A capacitor will equalize at whatever system voltage is.  If a capacitor is connected between the battery + and ground, it will charge to the same voltage as the battery.  It is impossible for it do do otherwise.  Where are you reading this "10.x" volts?  Using what meter?  Is the car running?

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Posted By: robfontelera
Date Posted: April 06, 2005 at 2:20 PM

DYohn] wrote:

capacitor will equalize at whatever system voltage is.  If a capacitor is connected between the battery + and ground, it will charge to the same voltage as the battery.  It is impossible for it do do otherwise.  Where are you reading this "10.x" volts?  Using what meter?  Is the car running?

what i'm saying is that when you buy a cap the first thing you have to do is charge is, correct?

well, when i tried to charge is with the engine off, it would only go up to 10.x volts, it wouldn't reach the 12.5 volts that the car battery was.  i used a dmm to measure the cap and battery.





Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: April 06, 2005 at 2:26 PM
Unless there's a problem in your wiring, take it back, and try another.  When you measure, make sure you get good contact, or else you could get a funny reading.  What do you read at the amp?  It should be the same as the cap.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.




Posted By: robfontelera
Date Posted: April 06, 2005 at 2:35 PM

the same as the cap.  the cap has one of those digital voltmeters on them....would that be a problem......

i never experienced this before, but when the cap tops at at around 10 volts, i remove the resistor and connect all the wires for the cap, but by the time i do all that the cap loses all its power?





Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: April 06, 2005 at 3:08 PM

robfontelera wrote:

the same as the cap.  the cap has one of those digital voltmeters on them....would that be a problem......i never experienced this before, but when the cap tops at at around 10 volts, i remove the resistor and connect all the wires for the cap, but by the time i do all that the cap loses all its power?

It is defective if it "loses all its power" as soon as it is disconnected.  But don't trust anything a cheap digital "voltmeter" on a cap tells you. 

Why do you think you need a cap anyway?

Also, what does your battery voltage read with a DMM and the cap out of the circuit?



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Posted By: robfontelera
Date Posted: April 06, 2005 at 3:27 PM

i have dimming probs when i turn up the volume.  my battery reads 12.4 volts when the engine is off.  it's a new battery.

would you know if i redid all the grounds in the engine bay, and maybe even ground the block to the body if that would help?





Posted By: audiobass10
Date Posted: April 06, 2005 at 4:03 PM
What sort of power are you running? If your alternator is not sufficient for the load presented before the capacitor, the capacitor will only make it worse.

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Dave

Pioneer Premier DEH-P660
15" Kicker CVR
Profile AP1000M
It's Loud




Posted By: robupnya
Date Posted: April 06, 2005 at 11:39 PM
now that i didn't know.  well, i have a 1998 toyota corolla, don't know what the alternator is rated at.  i am running a kenwood 800 w amp powering a single 12" rockford fosgate hx2 sub.




Posted By: wheelerdr
Date Posted: April 07, 2005 at 3:37 AM
i would go to a local parts store like napa and have you battery and alt tested. you can also try getting a yellow top deep cycle battery this will help all around.

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Posted By: robfontelera
Date Posted: April 07, 2005 at 8:01 AM

wheelerdr wrote:

i would go to a local parts store like napa and have you battery and alt tested. you can also try getting a yellow top deep cycle battery this will help all around.

do you think if i added more grounds in the engine bay it would help?  like grounding the motor to the body or chassis, run new grounds from the battery to chassis, to the alternator, to the body?

i was thinking about buying a yellow top battery, but someone advised me to try regrounding everything first.





Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: April 07, 2005 at 8:15 AM

robupnya wrote:

now that i didn't know.  well, i have a 1998 toyota corolla, don't know what the alternator is rated at.  i am running a kenwood 800 w amp powering a single 12" rockford fosgate hx2 sub.

There is no way you need a capacitor.  If your lights are dimming with 800 watts (kenwood makes an 800 watt amplifier?) then you have alternator and/or battery issues.



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Posted By: Master Asylum
Date Posted: April 07, 2005 at 8:42 AM

Yeah... Here is my electrical power supply setup:

105 amp alternator(f**k alterstart and their ubey gheyness)
Standard engine battery from Napa
Then a Yellow Top in the trunk wired from the front battery
Amp is wired off the yellow top

I have a volt autometer in my car for a nice idea of how the system is holding up. I haven't dropped under 12 volts and only hit 12 volts when the car is off or at idle. When running it holds 13.5-14.2 depending on its mood mostly. I am pushing something like 1300wRMS plus the beastly heater/ac system in the car likes to suck it up as well. The only problem I have is that rattling on the plastic, but that has nothing to do with power. :)

If you are dimming at that, look into a more powerful alternator or a replacement.

(BTW your alt is 80 amp, so an upgrade might not be a bad idea?)



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1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm




Posted By: robfontelera
Date Posted: April 07, 2005 at 9:08 AM

are alternators easy to install?

would i need a specific model, or do all alternators fit in any car?

i got the car from my mom about 2 months ago cause she bought a new solara, so everything in it right now is 7 yrs. old.....1998.  i was also thinking, since the car came from daly city, ca....very foggy weather everyday, there can be some rust where all the ground points are right now, that's the reason i was asking bout if i regrounded everything if that would make a difference.





Posted By: TruckSystem
Date Posted: April 07, 2005 at 10:01 AM
It would not hurt to check and if needed clean the grounding points so they are getting solid connections, however I do not think that will cure your dimming. Alternators can be as easy as two bolts if it is in an easily accessible spot, really does depend on the vehicle, I am not very familier with anything other then Chevrolet stuff for parts setups so I cannot tell you for sure on that model. You would need an alternator that specifically fits your car, most likely you would want to get one of the high output models, especially if you plan on adding more equipment at some point.

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2003 Chevrolet Silverado Standard Cab ~ Alpine CDA-9851
Diamond Audio D3600.1 ~ 2x Diamond Audio TM310D4
Diamond Audio D3400.4 ~ Diamond Audio Hex S600s
AstroStart RS5204 Remote Start/Alarm




Posted By: robfontelera
Date Posted: April 07, 2005 at 10:25 AM

thanks for the info






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