KAC-929 Not Working

I have 2 KAC-929's... each power a single Sub. I just noticed that one of the amps is not staying on. As soon as it recieved a charge to the remote lead, it quickly lights up and then clicks itself off. I'm not sure if there's something to do with the thermal shut off, or what the joke is. Any help would be appreciated.

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Don't have a hero.
Look up to no one;
because if someone's leading the way, the best you'll ever be is second

Test by disconnecting the speaker load.  If it does the same thing that will eliminate the speaker as the fault.  If it stays on the speaker is the culprit and has to be examined.  

Power the car completely off and then back on before each test.

If the speaker is good, disconnect the input (leaving the speaker disconnected as well).  If it still goes into protection it is a problem with the amp.  If it stays on, the problem lies in the input wires or upstream.  Post back what your test reveals.

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Ok, Since then I just decided to pull the fuses out of the amp, so that it woudln't try and come on or anything while I was driving around. Then I just happened to glance back, while I was driving, and noticed the amp is working fine and pounding pretty good. Now, I find this kinda weird that it's working so well with both 30amp fuses yanked out of the amp. It shoudln't come on at all. But I haven't messed with it since, it seems to be working just fine.

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Don't have a hero.
Look up to no one;
because if someone's leading the way, the best you'll ever be is second

You pulled the fuses out of the amp and it works?  That is - strange to say the least, and if it is indeed on with the fuses pulled it indicates a major fault in the amplifier.  If it was me, I'd yank that bad boy immediately before it burns your car to the ground.  Get it tested at a shop ASAP.

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Well I'm not too worried about it burning my car to the ground. Because just before the amp. I have an ANL fuse block with a 60 amp fuse going to each amplifier. So it is protected by a fuse just prior to the amp. But I'm dumbfounded by how it could be workign with no fuses on the amp itself. I'm thinking some bonehead has ripped it open and bypassed the fused connection from probably having something wrong with blowing fuses. But my 60 amp fuse isn't blowing, which is a nice sign.

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Don't have a hero.
Look up to no one;
because if someone's leading the way, the best you'll ever be is second

What DYohn said was good advice, the fuse holder you installed protects the car and wire, not the amp so you are still at risk from the amp itself.

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bodybuilder wrote:

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Well I'm not too worried about it burning my car to the ground. Because just before the amp. I have an ANL fuse block with a 60 amp fuse going to each amplifier. So it is protected by a fuse just prior to the amp. But I'm dumbfounded by how it could be workign with no fuses on the amp itself. I'm thinking some bonehead has ripped it open and bypassed the fused connection from probably having something wrong with blowing fuses. But my 60 amp fuse isn't blowing, which is a nice sign.

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I don't care what fuses you have in the system, if the amplifier is running without internal fuses installed then someone has modified it and it is no longer safe to operate.  You have to ask youself what sort of internal failue would cause someone to wire past fuses?  Maybe because they were blowing?

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