hi!! what a great forum you got here.
im new to this forum and just want to ask something, i added another tweeter to my car audio and the tweeter magnet gets hot. What is the problem? anybody can help me on this ??
later,,,,sp33doe
Hi and welcome. Speaker magnets do get hot as 90% or more of all the audio power you deliver to them is converted into heat. But generally tweeters don't get too hot. What's the tweeter, what's the amp, and how is it connected to the system? What kind of crossover did you use?
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thanx for the warmth welcome....
its a small tweeter that was given to me by my friend, there aint really no specification on the tweeter.
i didnt use any crossover. i just hook it up on an extension speaker wire coming out of the stock speaker
Sounds like it is trying to produce too many frequences that it cannot and it is resulting in heat.
How does it sound even remotely decent set up like that out of curiosity.
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2003 Chevrolet Silverado Standard Cab ~ Alpine CDA-9851
Diamond Audio D3600.1 ~ 2x Diamond Audio TM310D4
Diamond Audio D3400.4 ~ Diamond Audio Hex S600s
AstroStart RS5204 Remote Start/Alarm
the sound is decent and its really kicking the only problem is its getting hot , no idea why and im afraid to leave it thinking it might blow my head unit or any stock speaker in place
Yes, without a crossover the tweeter is being overworked and will eventually blow or burn out. That's why it is getting hot. Continue like this and it will not last long. You need to high-pass any tweeter and you'll need the technical specs to decide at what frequency. What make/model is it?
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DYohn] wrote:
es, without a crossover the tweeter is being overworked and will eventually blow or burn out. That's why it is getting hot. Continue like this and it will not last long. You need to high-pass any tweeter and you'll need the technical specs to decide at what frequency. What make/model is it?
no name on the tweeter
make and moel? it a jeep liberty
No, I meant the make and model of the tweeter. In any case, you're going to blow it if you don't get a crossover on it. I suggest 12db/octave, 3500Hz.
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thanks for the advice,, ill go out and shop for crossovers
thanks again
later,, sp33doe
It would be far simpler and probably about the same cost to just replace those factory speakers with coaxials that are already supplied with a mid/tweeter and tiny 1st order crossover. The quality of the mid alone will most likely be much improved. But, if you do want to try your hand at something new and gain a good learning experience, you can make the crossover yourself with parts from an audio retailer.
Here is a link to a crossover calculator https://www.mhsoft.nl/spk_calc.asp#crossover Since you don't know if the tweeter is 4 ohm or otherwise, you'll have to assume that both drivers are 4 ohms (if you can obtain a meter to measure resistance let us know). Go to the 2nd order crossover and input type Butterworth and enter 3500 Hz, with each driver entered as 4 ohms.
You will see values given for caps and coils (inductors) and a diagram for each of the two drivers. Find the values of the caps here https://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=72
...and the coils here https://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=313
Note: these are the cheapest types of these components available but would be suitable for your project. (But they are actually higher quality and handle more power than the typical crossover in a store-bought speaker system). Now draw up your diagrams and put these values into it, selecting the value that is closest to what the calculator came up with. With this info you can go locally and pick up the parts.
Here is some more info on building crossovers
https://www.partsexpress.com/resources/crossover/xoverfaqs.html
https://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/xover/xover.html
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thanx for the info and the links
i appreciate it much
later,, sp33doe