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2000 sebring amp question

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=65989
Printed Date: June 04, 2024 at 3:08 AM


Topic: 2000 sebring amp question

Posted By: crutch
Subject: 2000 sebring amp question
Date Posted: November 10, 2005 at 10:56 AM

I have a 2000 chrysler sebring with a 4 disk cd changer. I am trying to install an amp but do not want to cut into the factory wires. I want to keep the factory stereo. Does anybody know if they make a harness for this?



Replies:

Posted By: hobobasher
Date Posted: November 10, 2005 at 10:58 PM
your better off getting a line out converter off your factory radio then finding a switched 12v source. once you get that you run your wires for your amp. next you run the wires to the speakers and then you will be allset. in terms of what your asking no i do not beleive they do.




Posted By: redpeppers
Date Posted: November 10, 2005 at 11:58 PM
best buy has reverse harness's.....u could do that

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Where theres is a wire there's a way.




Posted By: hobobasher
Date Posted: November 11, 2005 at 7:28 AM
red peppers i dont think they would have that for what he needs.  i think they are only like the harness that goes into the back of the factory radio. like if you rip the stock harness out or something you could repalce it. i think those might be the only reverse harness they have. ill look tho cuz im not sure




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 11, 2005 at 9:12 AM

crutch - there are two types of preamp signal output :  line level and speaker level.  Line level is low noise, low voltage.  Speaker level is higher noise, higher voltage.  Aftermarket decks provide line level preamp outputs, which is the cleanest signal, but OEM decks do not.  As hobobasher said, you have to get the preamp signal from the OEM deck's speaker outputs.

This is generally accomplished by choosing either front or rear, both L and R, and "tapping" the wires.  The insulation has to be removed from a small area of the wire but the wire does not have to be severed.  You can keep the speakers attached to the wire if you wish and they will continue to get their amplified sound from the deck.  But if that pair of speakers is going to be powered by the aftermarket amplifier, remove the factory wiring from them first;  a speaker can be powered by only one amplifier.

Use a high quality adjustable line output converter (LOC).  It will have gain controls that you can adjust for highest quality sound.  The cheaper ones (with no gains) are preset and you are taking a gamble that they will be set to the output voltage of your OEM deck...they will usually work but the sound may not be as good as it could be.  The LOC converts the speaker level signal to a signal that will be accepted by the line level inputs on the amplifier.  It is still not as clean as an original preamp line level signal, but that's the breaks when you want to keep the OEM deck.  Which makes it all the more important not to scrimp on cost when you're choosing which LOC to use.  You can use either 2 channel or 4 channel depending on how you want to set up the system.  If your amp has a speaker level input, consider it to be the least desirable way to go...so don't use it.

When you remove the insulation to attach the LOC wires, be sure to solder the connection and tape it up.  To keep the preamp signal wiring at the shortest length possible, usually the rear speaker wires are tapped if that is closest to your amp location.



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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: hobobasher
Date Posted: November 11, 2005 at 9:42 AM

yes exactly what stevdart said he explains what i said better than i could. thank you i just couldent find the right words to explain it
paul





Posted By: crutch
Date Posted: November 11, 2005 at 11:40 AM
Thank you all for your assistance. I was just hoping that somebody made an intermediate harness that would connect to the factory wire harness and then into the factory stereo and have the wires ran out the side or something like that. I have heard that when you splice into the factory wires it voids your warranty and all.




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 11, 2005 at 11:45 AM
You are far removed from factory warranty issues on the original sound system with a car that is 5 or 6 years old.  But even in a new car, the aftermarket equip. can be removed and the wire taped before you would take it into the shop for warranty repairs.  Have you ever seen the amount of electrical tape used on OEM wiring harnesses?

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: hobobasher
Date Posted: November 11, 2005 at 1:00 PM
very true. in all honesty i would just upgrade the head unit. i mean it depends on  what you want but its just so much better to upgrade the head unit. but if you want to keep your factory radio just do as we said and you will be fine youll need an amp wiring kit. like the power wire rca wire, and the remote turn on and ground wires.





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