Print Page | Close Window

Fans, plexiglass for amp rack/bandpass box?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=67623
Printed Date: April 24, 2024 at 7:42 AM


Topic: Fans, plexiglass for amp rack/bandpass box?

Posted By: hex0rz
Subject: Fans, plexiglass for amp rack/bandpass box?
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 1:11 PM

Hey guys much help would be appreciated if you could give me a helping hand on this. I have a few questions for you all.

1. I bought two PC Fans. I need to know what  I need to make them run in my vehicle.

2. I have been considering putting my amps ontop of my sub box in a locked enclosement. It would have plexiglass covering it with locks. I called Car Toys recently and they told me not to use plexiglass on a bandpass box. Would the same go for the amp rack?

3. Is it a bad idea to use plexiglass on a bandpass box? I was really looking forward to having one. But until after they told me not to. I believe what is going to come out of a MECP installers mouth, but it may have just been his opinion because he said he would never use a bandpass for any sub. So I'm a bit doubtful... Any elaborate for me?




Replies:

Posted By: cirrusly_fast
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 1:24 PM
try this for the fans. Amp Rack

I think the plexiglass thing was his opinion, however I am not a professional so I'll let them answer.

-------------
Cuz I'm Kewl Like That.
System: 1-12" Orion H2, Crossfire VR2000D,Odyssey C2150 battery




Posted By: fingaz22
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 1:31 PM

i feel the same way on the bandpass but there are plenty of people that like them so you will get a few different opinons. why not a sealed enclosure? or vented? i feel they have better sq depending on your setup. you have alot of choices and in the end its all up to you and your true wants.

the fans are best run via relays are they brussless? i've seen pc fans that are not(will cuase noise) but usaully are brushless. take power to the 30 spot on the relay, put ground to the 85 spot, put the remote from amp or to a termal switch so they turn on when they reach set tempture. to 86 and pos. on fan to 87. ground fan. and try to keep the amps from being directly mounted to the box because of damage from the bass.



-------------
JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs




Posted By: dwarren
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 1:37 PM

In order to run your fans, I suggest you use a relay. Check this thread out, it will answer it. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=67505&PN=1

As far as the box goes, you could build your whole enclosure from plexi if you felt like it. Plexi glass encloures do have a different sound as opposed to MDF. But I would imagine that you are going to only have part of your box with plexi? Plexi is very expensive and pretty heavy.

I also don't see a problem with  a plexi amp enclosure, so long as there is proper ventilation. There are som draw backs to amps mounted to sub boxes. Like the vibrations may shorten the life of the amp and if a thief should take the box, he also gets some amps too. 



-------------




Posted By: cirrusly_fast
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 1:38 PM
here's a better link for that too. Cooling Fans.

-------------
Cuz I'm Kewl Like That.
System: 1-12" Orion H2, Crossfire VR2000D,Odyssey C2150 battery




Posted By: cirrusly_fast
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 1:41 PM
oops dwarren posts before i did, the link is not any better or worse than his link. he just posted that before i did


-------------
Cuz I'm Kewl Like That.
System: 1-12" Orion H2, Crossfire VR2000D,Odyssey C2150 battery




Posted By: hex0rz
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 2:03 PM

Thanks alot for the help with everything guys!

I'am going to cut holes for the BRUSHLESS fans on the side of the box. I have the face pieces extended to make the amp rack. Then, there would be another piece of MDF on top of that. And in the middle there would be another piece to seperate the amp rack and sub box. I was going to cut the top piece to put a plexiglass covering over it. The covering has hinges(?) and a lock. Then it would be screwed down on all 4 corners.

I was thinking that if I carpeted all the wood, it would dampen the noise of the plexiglass? Would that work?

I have done a vented enclosure. But if I created a bandpass box, it would be harder to get the subs. I'm going to be bolting the sub box down along with the amps. If I can create more time for the thief to take my stuff, the better of chances he won't get away with any of it.

So, if I cant put my amps ontop of the box how could I remedy it?





Posted By: cirrusly_fast
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 2:10 PM
your set up sounds fine to me. have you been robbed before? cause you are going quite far with securing this stuff.

-------------
Cuz I'm Kewl Like That.
System: 1-12" Orion H2, Crossfire VR2000D,Odyssey C2150 battery




Posted By: fingaz22
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 2:19 PM

the hindges are not nessary unless you perffer them the carpet will help with the rattle and seal for both if you go with the bandpass use some thin weather stripping inbetween the box and plexi.

just mount the amps on a piece of mdf that is not a wall of the box. make an amp rack and mount it to the box. having the piece of mdf the amps are on not directly against the box.



-------------
JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs




Posted By: hex0rz
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 2:20 PM

I have not been robbed before. But I figure, "Go big or go home!"

I'm also purchasing DEI Cliffords new Avantguard series that is coming out in Feb/Jan.





Posted By: dwarren
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 2:20 PM
hex0rz wrote:

I was thinking that if I carpeted all the wood, it would dampen the noise of the plexiglass? Would that work?

I have done a vented enclosure. But if I created a bandpass box, it would be harder to get the subs. I'm going to be bolting the sub box down along with the amps. If I can create more time for the thief to take my stuff, the better of chances he won't get away with any of it.

So, if I cant put my amps ontop of the box how could I remedy it?


No, carpet will not have an acoustic effect here. Just visual effect.

If you are building a bandpass enclosure for security reasons, perhaps you should just get an alarm with paging like you said. I am not opposed to bandpass boxes but they do require much more detail and accuracy, for mediocre results.

As far as your amps go, I can suggest some things but not with out vehicle info.



-------------




Posted By: fingaz22
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 2:26 PM
like dwarren said an alarm with pager is diffently a good theft deterant and if you want for added sercurity partsexpress.com has security screws that will prevent some one from unscrewing them without the right tool. and can be taken in and out without stripping the holes becuase the metal threaded incerts.

-------------
JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs




Posted By: hex0rz
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 2:51 PM

Ohhh! Some sec. screws. Was'nt sure where I could get them. Well, I guess I'll just go a vented enclosure now. It does'nt change anything, really. It will actually save me money since I wont have to buy more wood and plexiglass...

But problems are still arisen. If I get hinges and locks, what are my chances of them vibrating? How can I dampen it?

My vehicle is a Mazda B2200 1989 X-cab. Its a small truck, so I decided to put the amps on my box. Since I dunno where I'm gonna be able to fit two amps.





Posted By: fingaz22
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 2:58 PM
thats why i posted that the hindges will not be nessary and the carpet will help from the plexi rattling and you just use the sec. screws for the plexi glass top of the amp rack and they cant get in. drill holes that will help with ventalting and that you can get your fingures into to lift the glass off when unscrewed.

-------------
JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs




Posted By: hex0rz
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 3:33 PM

Well, what about the amps? What can I do about those?





Posted By: dwarren
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 3:37 PM
Under seats, back wall if there is room, other wise you will have to mount them on the box.

-------------




Posted By: hex0rz
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 4:04 PM

Hehehe. Well, with such a small truck it really is hard to find a place for three amps...

What about a backing pad under the amps if they're ontop of the box? No?





Posted By: fingaz22
Date Posted: December 04, 2005 at 8:34 PM

can you post any pic's? what kind of vechile do you exactly have?



-------------
JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs




Posted By: hex0rz
Date Posted: December 05, 2005 at 12:04 AM

I dunno how much more specific I can get with the description of it.

MAKE: Mazda

MODEL: B2200 Extended Cab

YEAR: 1989

I dunno how I would be able to post pictures, but I do have a site of it on cardomain.com. The pictures are obsolete, but it gives you an idea on how much space I have.

https://www.sounddomain.com/ride/1370897





Posted By: fingaz22
Date Posted: December 05, 2005 at 9:27 PM

yea i didn't no what kind of vechile you had i guess i missed the post but you diffently are limited on space but if you just dont directly mount the amps to the box you'll be better than if you did. putting padding would worry me because of the heat and chances of fire. nothing real serious but chances are still there if you went that route. how are you facing the subs? how much space do you have on either side? you will need to do the best you can and get creative. keep the amps that will be getting hotter(sub amps) father from the box. oposed to the mid amp can be a little closer. seeing it do get as hot and can with stand a little more than the others.

if you would like send me a pm with some measurments and i canhelp better by drawing something up for you. other than that try your best a you should be fine. good luck keep us posted.



-------------
JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs




Posted By: hex0rz
Date Posted: December 05, 2005 at 11:09 PM

Well, you sure are right about some of those things. But I forgot to tell you a few things.

MTX and Xtant sure are some smarty pants. Both of my amps are the new TA series. Both are 3401. These already have a built-in fan that adjusts its speed depending on the temp. Combine that with two fans in a small space, I think I should be good.

I decided that I will put some sort of material under the amps to deaden the vibration and noise. But what? Is Dynomat the only solution? It seems so since its a rubber...

I have decided to make this enclosure a vented one instead. Many people have told me not to go the bandpass route. Simply too much hassle trying to make things right with it... I will agree since I never had exp. with bandpass boxes.

The enclosure takes up almost all of the back of the cab. Only space I have left is on the sides and top.  It really is too late for you to help with modifying dimensions since I already have the wood cut. I know, stupid me. But I solved most of my problems except for ONE.

Plexiglass... Really, the problem is how thick and how to keep it from vibrating. I was thinking 1/4 inch plexi to cover over the amps. I dont see why it would'nt work. Besides the fact of the subs making it flex? Would they make it flex?

Well, this is my idea on how to make this work. Around the perimeter, the top MDF is cut back all the way so it is only ehh, a couple or so inches. Lay Dynomat on the wood and then lay the plexiglass on this. Then,  screw it down nice and tight. Now, with the box being so long, the middle will shake. So, instead of putting a piece of wood there to brace it, I have little sections of MDF throughout the amp enclosure to secure the plexiglass down and keep it from flexing and vibrating and whatnot. Oh ya, and the pieces also have Dynomat on them too. Tell me, whats the opinion guys?





Posted By: dwarren
Date Posted: December 05, 2005 at 11:55 PM

The most important thing to do when mounting amps on boxes is to place the feet, (at least two of the srcews for the amp) over a main brace in the box, like a divider or a wall. You are on the right track as it is. I don't think there will be much of a problem with using pads or dynamat beneath the amp. Heat is not dissapated from the bottom of the amp, rather the heat sink or fins, usually located on the top or sides of the amp.

Check out the diagram half way down the page here for proper mounting...https://www.bcae1.com/amplfier.htm



-------------




Posted By: hex0rz
Date Posted: December 06, 2005 at 12:16 AM

The heat sink on the MTX TA amps are on the top... Well thats where the intake is and then they exhaust out the sides.

I'll only have one bracing in the sub box. And that is right in the middle. So there is no way it can be mounted on the brace. Although, I have heard about putting little wooden blocks under the wood of the amp mount and bolt the amp down to these blocks. Would that still work?



-------------
Vehicle: Mazda B2200 1989 X-Cab
Audio System:
1. (2) MTX TA3401
2. (2) MTX Thunder 7500
3. (1) MTX TA3202
4. Eclipse Fujitsuten SC8264 Component series
5. Pioneer Premier DEH-P770MP




Posted By: hex0rz
Date Posted: December 06, 2005 at 12:20 AM

Oh, wait two more things! I sure wish this forum would let us edit our existing posts...

Still sticking with the same idea as previously stated above this post, put wooden blocks ontop of the amps rack so the amps sit on these wooden blocks. Would'nt that deaden it tremendously since there are only just these small 4 points contacting the amp?

And forgot to also re-emphasize what thickness of plexiglass should I use to cover the amp rack?



-------------
Vehicle: Mazda B2200 1989 X-Cab
Audio System:
1. (2) MTX TA3401
2. (2) MTX Thunder 7500
3. (1) MTX TA3202
4. Eclipse Fujitsuten SC8264 Component series
5. Pioneer Premier DEH-P770MP




Posted By: dwarren
Date Posted: December 06, 2005 at 12:20 AM

How about lining the amps against the back of the box? That way you can use the rear wall as a support.

You better get pics up of your progress, that way we can hassle you moreposted_image 



-------------




Posted By: hex0rz
Date Posted: December 06, 2005 at 12:37 AM

Bwahaha. I was thinking of use the back portion also. No go... The dimensions of the box and the amount of space I have in the vehicle is already to its maximum. That and the face pieces of the sub box extend further than the box so it can be a "pre-assembled amp rack." If you can picture it... I guess I should make a pic for you in MSPaint, haha!

I'll try my best to get the project documented, but it won't be happening anytime soon since I have to use my brothers neighbors power tools. And he is a truck driver, and I have to work all this week until MONDAY!!! NO! This is too long to wait to get started... :(



-------------
Vehicle: Mazda B2200 1989 X-Cab
Audio System:
1. (2) MTX TA3401
2. (2) MTX Thunder 7500
3. (1) MTX TA3202
4. Eclipse Fujitsuten SC8264 Component series
5. Pioneer Premier DEH-P770MP





Print Page | Close Window