3 amps, how to wire?

Alright guys. Need some help here. These questions range from this forum, so I thought it might just fit here since it is a dealing in car audio.

I have 3 amps, and two fans. I already have a relay. But I have 3 questions:

1. How do I connect the signal to all three amps? Do I buy three RCA's?

2. I was told it was okay to connect the 12volt power from the relay right to the dist. block for the power of my amps. Will the ANL fuse protect the relay, or should I fuse the relay from the dist. block? And if so, how?

3. How do I connect all 3 remote turn on-leads from the amps to the relay? Splice?

What are the amps and specs for them?

The first three items in my signature that relate to my sound system are the amps that I own.

https://www.mtxaudio.com will provide you with all the info. you will need to know about my amps.

Could I just put three remote wires in the connector then onto the relay instead of splicing it?

Oh, wait, my bad. Sorry for double postin', but I had to provide this info. to you.

The two Mtx TA3401's run one Thunder 7500 each.

The 3401's are a Mono-block class d amplifier

The TA3202 runs my eclipse SC8264 component speakers.

1.  Use two RCA's.  One is for the sub preout and the other is for the full range preout.  The sub RCA can go to one sub amp and pass through the preamp output to the second sub amp.  If your mono amp doesn't have a preamp output, buy a Y-splitter and feed both sub amps that way.  The second RCA will go to the components amp.

2.  The relay is on the turn-on wire, not the power wire.  As far as your questions sound about fusing:  the main fuse at the battery protects the power wire that goes from battery to distro block.  If it is a fused block, install fuses to protect the outgoing wires to the amps.  If it's not a fused block, install fuse holders and fuses between the distro and the amps to protect those power wires.  Don't put a relay on this power wire!

:::EDIT:::  I looked again at your wording and see that you meant that you wanted to use the distro block point as B+ source instead of the battery.  If you do, there is no change to the fusing info described here.

3.  Use the relay diagram shown here:

The curved S-shaped symbol represents a fuse.  Fuse each of the accessories at a higher rating than their amperage draw.  The red line is 12V power source and is normally attached at the battery.  This wire is fused for protection as well, and will be rated high enough for the combined current draw of all accessories.  These currents are low, mind you.  An amp uses only about 1/4 amp to turn on, and fans use very little too.  Look at their amperage rating and add them all together.  This main fuse will protect the relay.

The wire marked "remote turn on lead" is attached at the deck.

More info:  https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#rtol

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Thanks for the help. I went and bought a Y splitter and I find out I paid like $15 for a foot of wire...

NOW, I have to go buy 2 MORE RCA's... Damn man, damn...

And it sounds like to me, that you want me to get rid of my non-fused dist. block. and get a fused block... Well, there goes another $20-25... Lol, damn you streetwires!

Can I just fuse the line coming out of 30 and just put in a fuse that equals all the loads on the line?

Im only using the relay to run 2 fans and the 3 amps...

The fuses and fuseholders for the wires to the fans:  total cost $5 anywhere.  This little fuseholder is 49 cents apiece and a pack of small amperage fuses a couple of bucks.  This pocket change is all you can get by with omitting if you were going to leave anything out of this install, and is that worth it?  I would fuse each wire as shown.  In the long run when you are trying to troubleshoot a problem with one component in the long chain of components that make up the entire sound system, you are much better off with the proper setup to work with.

There are no shortcuts when it comes to fusing the power wires out of the distro.  You can make smart choices in what you buy though.  A fused block isn't necessary, but the wires need a fuseholder after the block and before the amp.  You can use the block you already have and do some smart shopping to keep costs down on these important and necessary safety items.

Hmmm, well could you enlighten me where I can get these supplies?

I come to find out that people want $65 and up for a streetwires fused distribution block! And $15 for a 150 amp FUSE!!! And $50 freaking dollars for a damn in-line fuse holder!

One question... I have only a 4awg wiring kit. But I have about upwards to 1000 watts rms. My amps all together draw 130 amps. Although, my vehicle is a mini pickup. So would it still be okay to use 4 gauge for power? Reason is becuase I realized my fuse for the power cable is AGU not ANL. So that means I have to go buy an ANL fuse and the holder. Does that mean I have to upgrade to 1 gauge?

Here are some of the items I used for my own car, for the same reasons you describe:

• fuseholder for fan
• fuses in packs of five
• fuseholder for the power wire out of the unfused distro block
• fuses for the power wires

If you're not going to be adding much more to the system for awhile, do some math to see approx how much amperage your setup will pull.  An amp is fused according to its limit of operation.  If you're not using the amp that way the draw will be less.  For example, the amp is fused to allow peak operation at the minimum ohm load...but you're putting a 4 ohm load onto it.  Far less current draw.  For a good idea before actual setup and testing with a meter, use Ohm's Law I = P/E with P being the total power output at the RMS rated loads, and E being the voltage at the source (use 14).

Do the math in two parts:  once for all A/B amps, second time for all D amps.  There is a lower efficiency with the A/B amps, so use 50% to be conservative.  The answer for amperage draw that you found will be doubled for these amps.  For the mono amps, a conservative efficiency would be to add 20% on top of the answer to find actual current draw.

Anybody find I've erred...do jump in.  Ohm's Law makes my head hurt.

Well stevdart, I'm fine with my amps. Lol, I talk to Car Toys. Man, I call them alot for things... He said the fuses on my amp is all that I need. That is my fusing for the amps. Both TA3401's have 2 25a fuses. The 3202 has a 30a fuse. So all I need to fuse is just my relay and fans.

He also said he would hook me up with an 150a ANL fuse with the in-line holder for $30!

Sorry for double post, but has to reply to your post again. Both of my Class D amps will be running at 2 ohms. My subwoofers will be wired in a parallel since its a DVC woofer.

As for my 3202, I'm not sure which class it is. But I know it is going to be pushing 100 watts RMS at 4 ohms. Its a 2 channel amp if that is going to make any difference... So, do you think a 150a ANL fuse will be fine, since I'm adding on 2 fans?

I feel confident...

You have the info to do the math....and a two channel amp would be A/B.  The mono is a D.

...and we weren't talking about the fusing for the amps.  It's the wires out of the distro block that need to be fused.  That's why fused distro blocks are made.

Okay, so what is the purpose of the fuses on the amp? That does'nt protect the amp?

And whats the purpose of the fuse on the power line to the amp if the fuses are in the amp? Hypothetically speaking, taking the viewpoint of the Car Toys guy.

You have to start getting that the WIRES are fused AS WELL as each individual electrical component.  The main fuse on the power wire protects the wire from the fuse point back to where the wire terminates.  In the event somewhere along the line the wire touches ground, the fuse will blow and thus protect the car from FIRE.  Each additional wire in the power chain is individually fused for the same reason, i.e. the wires that start at the distro block and terminate at the amps.  And when you're adding accessories like fans, you would fuse the wire in the event of the same reason...AND in the event of an electrical malfunction in the accessory itself., since many of these do not contain their own fuse.

A 150 amp fuse is appropriate for 4 gauge wire.  100 amp fuse is appropriate for 8 ga. wire.  https://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp  The small 18 or 20 ga. wires feeding out from the relay to the accessories could take fuses that are rated to just above the amperage draw of each item.  These wires would not present a fire hazard if they weren't fused, but I covered the relatively cheap cost of doing this earlier.

Read up on the basics by going to BCAE1.com.  You can start with the chapter on FUSES.

Okay, okay! You got me educated and convinced then stev.! No more need to instill it into my head!  :)

Thanks for the info. I'll just have to invest a bit more into the system...