For two 4ohm DVC subs, rated at 600rms each and wired for 1ohm or 4ohms, what size amp do i need? One that puts out 600rms or do i double it since im running 2?
What kind of sub are you looking to run? Some equipment is greatly over-rated and may not be able to safely handle what the manufactures state it can. generally speaking though you would double it ie 1200 watts....
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Or Xplode's.
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'85 Toy
nothingface9 wrote:
For two 4ohm DVC subs, rated at 600rms each and wired for 1ohm or 4ohms, what size amp do i need? One that puts out 600rms or do i double it since im running 2?
We recommend running at 4 ohms (less chance for distortion) with 1200 watts RMS. Because of the 1200 running RMS in the car, we also highly recommend making sure your alternator runs at least 120 amps out of it. Most cars are equipped with a 60 or 80 amp alternator (newer cars usually have between 90 - 115 amps) so check with what you have. At RMS, the subs will be pulling about 85 amps and that could cause serious damage to the electricals of your car if the alternator is rated too low. Adding batteries to your car is just a bandage really. A 600 CCA battery will only give about 8 seconds of clean power before it gets drained.
As for brand of speaker... Honestly, don't worry about the brand name. We have install hundreds of systems. If the install is good, then the sub's sound output will be good. If you really want to get the best set of speakers for your system, then get the Q's for the subs. Depending on what sound you are looking for and how much space you have (and $) use the Q's that will provide you the best match for your needs.
If you are still unsure of what subs to use, PM us for some tips. ^-^
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Never send your ducks to eagle school.
The difference between ordinary and extraordinary is that little extra.
The 3Ls of life: Learn from the Past, Live for the Present, Look to the Future.
Not neceassarily true on not worrying about the brand name. You can do a perfect install with low end equipment that is over-rated and get very undesireable results. Fact just did an install involving a 1200 watt power acoustic amp (brand new), trying to power 2 mb quart 12" dvc subs, amp stated 1 ohm stable it wasn't, ran it at 4 ohms subs barely moved, enclosure was built to mb quart specs. Then again when you buy a "1200 watt" amp for $145 us, hmmmm? Moral of the story brand name can play a very big role, in the equipments output. A proper install is important also, but you can polish a turd all you want and its still a turd
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Well what is written on an amp isn't what you will get out of it usually. Again we don't really look at the brand name. When it comes to amps, we look at the fuse ratings and type of ciruitry it is using. Matching the subs to the fuse(s) will get you the proper power. The amp says it puts out 1200 watts, but it doesn't say at what voltage. Ohms law...
Lanzar (for example) has amps that state they put out 2000 watts (peak) and it is true... if your car runs on 24 volts. On your average car, it will peak at ~1200 watts. 1000 watts on older vehicles.
We have a no name (literally) amp that puts out 1000 watts at 14.4 volts running into 2 10" subs and it is hitting 143.8 db @ 75Hz @ 1 meter; so turd it may be, but it works.
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Never send your ducks to eagle school.
The difference between ordinary and extraordinary is that little extra.
The 3Ls of life: Learn from the Past, Live for the Present, Look to the Future.