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2000-2003 Ford Taurus Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience - Alarm/Remote Start Pictorials
Forum Discription: Installer submitted Alarm, Keyless Entry, and Remote Start Pictorials from our Car Security and Convenience forum.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=135035
Printed Date: March 28, 2024 at 9:25 AM


Topic: 2000-2003 Ford Taurus Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial

Posted By: kreg357
Subject: 2000-2003 Ford Taurus Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial
Date Posted: October 08, 2013 at 7:02 PM

This is a Pictorial on a remote start with keyless entry install for a 2001 Ford Taurus sedan. This vehicle had the 3.0L
V-6 engine, Factory Remote Keyless Entry and no alarm. Vehicles from 2000 - 2003 ( including the Mercury Sable )
should be similar.

These cars are equipped with Fords' PATS3 engine immobilizer system. There are many good data style bypass
modules available. Some of the more popular bypass modules for DIYers are the Fortin Key-OverRide-All, it's cousin
from Directed the PKALL and from iDatalink, the ADS TBSL KO and ADS TBSL TI. All of these modules are pre-loaded
and ready to go right out of the box. However, all require two working, non-clone, keys for vehicle programming.

Install on this vehicle is very straight forward and yields no surprises. For this vehicle an Ultra Start U1272 remote
start w/keyless entry and an ADS TBSL KO bypass module was used.   Typical street price for these units run about
$90. Any quality remote starter can be used, preferably one with an extra, selectable, ignition output for this vehicles
Accessory2 wire. The U1272 is capable of D2D mode communication with the ADS TBSL KO bypass module which
eliminates the 3 wire connections between them.

Aside from the standard tools used in 12 Volt installations, an 8mm socket and possibly a 7mm deep socket are needed.

Disassembly :

Using the 8mm socket, remove the two bolts shown below at the bottom of the drivers side lower dash panel, then
pull the panel straight away from the dash. There are two plastic clips along the top edge.


posted_image



While not mandatory, for easier access ( and less lost skin ) remove the cross brace by removing the two 8mm bolts
indicated below.


posted_image



There is no need to remove the steering column covers, as all of the necessary wires are now exposed. If you are
using a key-in-the-box style universal bypass module, removing the steering column cover is somewhat unique and
detailed at the Bulldog Security WEB site : https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx

Use a non-marring trim tool to pop out the Headlight Switch assy and the Trunk Release Switch panel.

Wiring :

The Brake wire is found at the brake switch connector at the top of the brake pedal. Here is a picture.


posted_image


The Parking Light wire is shown below in this picture of the back of the headlight switch.


posted_image


The door lock wires can be found at the GEM module, which is on the inner firewall to the left of the steering column
and shown in the photo below. ( Lock wires can also be found in the Driver Kick Panel.)


posted_image


For alarm system installs, the four door trigger wires are also found in the same White 26 Pin plug.

The Trunk Release wire is pictured below. Please note that vehicles without Factory RKE will have a Gray/Red (+)
trunk release wire. ( Sorry for the washed out photo. )


posted_image


Here is a photo of the ignition wires. This connector can be removed using a 7mm deep socket on it's center
bolt for easier wire connections.


posted_image


This is a close-up picture of the Transponder connector with the wires marked ( as per the iDatalink install guide ).
Also shown is the Horn wire.


posted_image


For the most reliable engine remote start operation Tach Mode is recommended.   Here is a photo of a good Tach wire
found at the coil pack.



posted_image

Other Tach wire locations are the F.I.'s and the PCM, Tan / YELLOW, Pin 48. Not shown is the firewall pass thru for the
Tach wire & Hood Pin and a Chassis Ground point.    As always, use a Digital Multi Meter to locate & verify wires and
solder all connections.




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Soldering is fun!



Replies:

Posted By: racerjames76
Date Posted: October 11, 2013 at 7:38 AM
Looks good Kreg. I have never seen anyone take the time to remove that ignition connector properly though. We have a basket full of broken ones. Just snip off one side of the legs that are snapped in, and grab the end and break off the other side. Really serves no purpose. posted_image

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 11, 2013 at 8:57 AM
I agree! posted_image
Those ignition connector covers are a pain. I have seen a bunch either missing or broken. The older the plastic gets, the harder and more brittle the legs become. The only purpose I see they have is to gently guide the wires away from the steering column. This bunches them together and prevents interference with the tilt wheel. On this car, it was intact so I spent the extra time to remove & replace it. Trying to keep everything looking factory for a stealthy install.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: matt1981m
Date Posted: October 31, 2013 at 5:08 PM
Dude you %++%*$+#(%*& rock!!! Thanks for doing all the hard work for me! I will be installing a Viper 3203v/DB-ALL in a 2003 Taurus with ease because of your post. This isn't my first alarm install by any means, but the hard part is over! Thanks again for having such a through post!




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 31, 2013 at 7:54 PM

Glad to help.    posted_image

Two things to point out.  Make sure the DB-ALL is flashed with the 401.FORD1 v2.06 firmware and the 2003 Taurus will have a different style transponder connector, with different RX and TX wire colors, in the same general location.  Here are the wire colors :

TX is BROWN / Yellow @ Pin 4 
RX is Gray/Red @ Pin 3



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: matt1981m
Date Posted: November 09, 2013 at 12:02 PM
The DB-ALL has been flashed to the correct 401.FORD1 v2.06 firmware. Thanks for the info on the transponder wires!! I was incorrect on the model I would be installing. I said I would be installing a Responder LE 3203, but it is actually a Responder LE 5701. I have installed just under 20 alarm systems in the past, but unfortunately the last one was a 564t Hornet, and that was installed back in 2004. I went to go install it yesterday, and had a very big mess to clean up before I could even think of installing the system. The starter wire had 1.5 inches of insulation removed...no electrical tape or anything covering it. Of course it had several black marks where oxidation has occurred where it has been grounded. There was an old auto start system with a 555U haphazardly installed, with half of the starter relay wires either loosely wrapped around their target wire, or using scotchloks. I would never, ever let scotchloks near ignition wires, let alone the 14-18AWG ones they used. Solder, solder, solder. There is NO other way to do the work in my book. Needless to say, I spent all day removing the old system completely, fixing their mistakes, and prepping for the installation of the new system. After that B.S., I want to ensure the rest is smooth sailing. After all of the issues I decided to post to ensure all of my selections were correct for the remote start harness connections. I know I have all of the other connections for the other harnesses correctly made. Thanks for all your help!!

Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector
1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
RED / LT GRN

2 RED / WHITE (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
LT GRN/PURPLE

3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT
GREY / YELLOW

4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)
RED / LT BLUE

5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)
RED / LT BLUE (CLOSER TO IGNITION WITH CUT BETWEEN IT AND H3.4)

6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT
LT GRN/PURPLE

7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
BLACK/ GRN

8 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
N/A

9 RED / BLACK FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
LT GRN/PURPLE





Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 09, 2013 at 3:46 PM

Sometimes you find crazy things done under the dash.  Glad you corrected it before it became a major problem.  Looking at the bright side, you now have another working ignition key ( from inside the 555U ).  posted_image

Yes, looks good on the H3 heavy gauge wire harness.  Only one thing to check is the cars BLACK/ Green ignition wire.  If it tests as an Accessory type wire, then program the Viper, Menu3, Item 8 to Option 2. 



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: matt1981m
Date Posted: November 09, 2013 at 4:01 PM
I missed that about the 555U... Knew it used one, just forgot! Do I need a bitwriter to program that? Also, I am now a little confused on the DB-ALL wiring. Some references say that for this vehicle I don't need to connect the power inputs on H14 (red, black), or on H10 the ignition input (pink) or the GWR status input (blue/white), and other sources say to.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 09, 2013 at 4:24 PM

No, Viper Menu 3 is accessible with the remotes.

On the DB-ALL. if you are going in D2D mode ( using the D2D harness between the Viper and the DB-ALL ), then all of the dashed Blue wires are not required.  They are handled by the D2D harness.  The H10 Pink Ignition wire is a solid Black line and needs to be hardwired.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: matt1981m
Date Posted: November 09, 2013 at 7:09 PM
All installed, but having problems pairing the remotes. The main unit is getting power and is passing power to the DB-ALL but the valet switch is not working. It does not allow the unit to go into pairing mode. The LED on the antenna/valet switch does not light up at all. I checked all of the connections, and all are good. What should I check next?




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 09, 2013 at 7:34 PM
Thought the remotes were already paired.  There is a 5701 LE Install Guide in the Downloads Section.  The remote pairing procedure starts on Page 56.  I am not a Viper installer, so really can't assist too much.  There are Viper installers on the Forum, so maybe they can add some salient info.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: matt1981m
Date Posted: November 09, 2013 at 7:37 PM
Normally they would be but it is a refurbished unit. There was a note stating they had to be programmed. I have another valet switch I will hook up and try.




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 09, 2013 at 9:50 PM
I would check the remotes to make sure they are in the CAR 1 mode and not CAR 2. Press and HOLD the F Button until the Green LED on the lock button lights up. If both the Lock and Unlock button light up, the remote is in CAR 2 mode. Press the f button to light up only the Unlock Button.

What are the steps you are doing to pair the remotes?

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Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 09, 2013 at 11:13 PM
Hopefully they didn't use a BitWriter and put a Lock the Transmitter Programming option.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: matt1981m
Date Posted: November 18, 2013 at 6:49 PM
I was finally able to get the remotes to program. The neutral safety switch was bad. Replacing it fixed the problem. The problem I am having now is that the DB-ALL wont program, goes solid red for about 10 seconds but then flashes red (one flash every sec or so) continuously. Also, when hitting remote start, it errors out and flashes 7 times indicating manual transmission mode is enabled and not initialized. I have an automatic transmission. I thought the default setting would be for an automatic, and I have not enabled that mode. How do I disable manual transmission mode. It is 3-1 for the settings... shouldnt that be a unlock command to disable it? I did notice too that the wire combination for the rx/tx you indicated was reversed from what the DB-All instructions said, but I have tried both ways with no change for the DB-All programming. The unit was programmed to the correct firmware.




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 18, 2013 at 8:58 PM
If you don't have it, download the Install guide fro the 5701 from this site in the downloads section. Follow the steps starting on page 60. Having your horn connected will help.
One of the door triggers needs to be connected. H1/6 or H1/8.
Open door, turn ignition on, then off. Press AND HOLD the button on the antenna. The LED will blink once, then twice, then a third time. Release the button. You are in MENU 3. Press the button once, release then press AND HOLD. Now you should be in Menu 3, Item 1. Press the lock or unlock button on the remote, it should change the transmission mode to automatic and sound two chips from the horn/siren.
Release the button on the antenna. Either wait 30 seconds for the Viper to exit the programing or turn the ignition on then off to exit.

It might take a few attempts to get it, but keep trying.

Hopefully the brain is not locked with a bitwriter.

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Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 18, 2013 at 9:04 PM
What are your connection for the DB-ALL?

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Posted By: matt1981m
Date Posted: November 18, 2013 at 9:10 PM
I did finally get it set to automatic trans...

On the db-all I have the d2d of course, the 2 wires on the red harness to the tx/Rx, and on the black, the pink to the ign wire, and the blue white to the GWR output on the 5701, which I have now come to learn isn't needed due to d2d being used...




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 18, 2013 at 9:21 PM
RX could be BROWN / Yellow or Gray Orange at Pin 3

TX could be Grey/Red or WHITE/ Light Green at pin 4

Your connector style for the Taurus is style 3 on the DB-ALL install guide. Look at the shape and check with pin location.

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Posted By: matt1981m
Date Posted: November 18, 2013 at 9:44 PM
Yes, that is how I have it connected. I couldn't remember off hand which one was which but grey/red is hooked up as tx, BROWN / yellow is rx... Kreg357 had posted the reverse earlier in the thread, and I have tried it both ways. I have confirmed that the viper will start the car if the key is present in the tumbler so I know that part is a-ok... Now if only I could get the DBALL to cooperate and just program the way it is supposed to. I am tempted to pull it out and bribe a local best buy employee to check the firmware loaded to ensure the seller flashed it the was they said they did. Am I correct in thinking that the Viper's GWR output connected to the GWR input on the DBALL black harness wouldn't affect it programming correctly? Now I wish I hadn't ripped out the 555U that was installed before. I could have used that instead of the DBALL!




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 18, 2013 at 9:49 PM
For the few W2W connection it is, why not dump the D2D and go W2W. maybe the GWR is not working through the DB-ALL.

EDIT:
Your 5701 might have D2D jumpers on it that need to be set for an external D2D module. Page 54 of the install guide.

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Posted By: matt1981m
Date Posted: November 19, 2013 at 8:04 PM
OK finally got it programmed correctly. I went to a junkyard this afternoon with my ratchet and some wire cutters, and got both sides of the transponder harness out of another 2003 ford. I took it home, and made myself a T-Harness, soldering all of the connections to ensure it was connected perfectly. I had used scotchloks before, and with those skinny wires it wasn't connecting very strongly.

The way I was taught when soldering connections is that after soldered, heatshrink is best but electrical tape is ok too. The trick to keeping the connection secure and avoiding it breaking apart is a zip tie over the insulation used just below the joint, as well as right above. That immobilizes the wire you piggy backed, as well as keeps the insulation from coming undone (in the case of electrical tape). The Rx/tx wires were of course, the only 2 wires I used scotchloks with.




Posted By: matt1981m
Date Posted: November 19, 2013 at 8:09 PM
Thank you again to everyone for your help with this install! Now I get to install one in my Wife's Kia.




Posted By: e129745
Date Posted: December 01, 2013 at 6:34 AM
Very good info/images.
I am doing some research in hopes of installing a remote start on my wife's 2002 Taurus, hopefully gift wrapping the remotes for Christmas with the install complete on the car. I haven't purchased anything yet as my research only began a week ago at the most and I came across this thread. Again I say, "well done!" I have questions regarding the many bypass modules available. I find they (I'll likely get Directs PKALL bypass or maybe Fortin Key-OverRide-All) are requiring either 1 key to function, (OK that's logical), or 2 keys to program, (again, I see the logic as far as security goes). But our car is 11-12 years old and bought used 3 years ago and doesn't have a second OEM provided key. If I got a second key, I would avoid the more expen$ive $dealership$. Yet, I see that if you try using the only available key for the 2 separate keys required ends up faulting the programing process rendering the programing incomplete. Also noted is the use of a clone key for either of the two required OEM keys. This too, yields the same incomplete programing process. For that matter, I have no idea if the one key we DO have is this referenced "clone" key or if it is original.
1.What is a clone key? I have found cheaper Ebay blank key resources in the past that requires us to take it to the dealer to ?flash or ?program or whatever they do, about $80 total if I remember correctly, maybe more in all. I think this was significantly cheaper that direct to dealer. If I got this back-up key from these sources, would this produce this so-called clone key?
2.What are folks doing in this situation? I think it extremely likely that many others also have access to only one key and it too may not be the original key.

Thanks for your expertise and experience concerning this.

Patrick





Posted By: matt1981m
Date Posted: December 01, 2013 at 7:58 AM
Check local locksmiths, you may be able to get one cheaper than the dealer.




Posted By: e129745
Date Posted: December 01, 2013 at 12:15 PM
Thanks for the reply Matt1981m. So then, two keys are definitely required? and what of the term "clone key"?. I think this term came out of the manual from the PKALL bypass.
Patrick




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 01, 2013 at 1:02 PM

Clone keys are transponder duplicates of another working key.  The bypass module programming is similar to adding another key to the vehicle.  The PATS3 system needs to see two "different" working keys.  Working keys are those that are already programmed into and accepted by the PATS3 system.  One key could be the first Factory original and the second key could be a clone of the second Factory original.  As long as two different transponder chip ID's are used, you will be OK.

Without those two unique keys, you will need to either obtain a clone type key and hide that under the dash in a "universal" bypass module like the 556UW or go to a Dealer or high-tech locksmith to get another unique transponder chip key programmed to the vehicle.  This usually requires a dealer type scan tool.

There are ways to program a bypass module using only one key but this process is generally restricted to 12 Volt Industry Professionals.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: e129745
Date Posted: December 01, 2013 at 2:03 PM
I presumed this was the case and thanks you for the clarification. Considering cost, it appears that the course of action is to acquire a second key, not being made to be recognized by the PATS3 system through a dealers scan tool. Then storing this new key onboard using the correct type of bypass.
Thanks for your help,
Patrick




Posted By: matt1981m
Date Posted: December 01, 2013 at 6:56 PM
If you have another key made, and not just a clone of the 1 key you have, you will have that spare available in case something happens... and it will eventually happen. I would use a module that doesn't require a key to be installed inside if possible, that way you continue to have 2 keys available. With the prevalence of this model vehicle available in junk yards, take the time and make a T-Harness like I did for the transponder wires. Sure it is only 2 connections, but those tiny wires are a pain in the ^$^%&$%$ to get when bent underneath a dash. By doing that, you can take care of the connections in a more comfortable position. If I could make T-Harnesses for the other connections outside of the remote start ones, I would have! More prep, but a lot less work.

If you go with a clone of your existing key, I would get 2 clones made. One for a spare, one for the 556U to use to bypass the transponder. This would probably be the cheapest route, unless you have a local locksmith that will make the key cheaply. If a clone is what you go with, even check with your local hardware store. We have an ACE Hardware here that can make clones. If you haven't yet, pull that panel off underneath the steering column. You may luck out like I did. A previous owner had a key made by the dealership, and had installed it in a 556U. They butchered the install, but I had a 3rd key at no cost to me. Maybe the second key you are missing is in there... One can only hope!!




Posted By: e129745
Date Posted: December 02, 2013 at 12:30 AM
Exactly matt1981m! That is exactly what I am pondering.
I'm leaning towards getting a 2nd key programed into the on board PATS3 at a dealer... and looking under the dash "as-is" is a super idea! Could be driving around with the solution tucked away safely awaiting discovery!
Thanks mister!
Patrick




Posted By: e129745
Date Posted: December 14, 2013 at 4:47 AM
OK, Got a second transponder key programed to 2002 Taurus. This car was not factory fitted with remote/keyless entry. Wanting to install Viper 4104 one-way remote start coupled with PKALL bypass. My aim is to Merry Christmas my wife's car with keyless entry, trunk, Dome light on at unlock, wanting to do the push once drivers door only, second all doors unlock, car finder, and remote start. I might like to add rear window defogger as well, depending on how the rest goes.

I was told by seller and read that the bypass was self configuring and ready for install(also mentioned on packaging).
1)Does it still need to be flashed with latest version FORD ware? I could do this over web if I needed to? I am not a dealer/installer business.
2)Is the 2002 Taurus higher current at the trunk release needing a relay wired in? I am seeing it is (-) but haven't inserted meter to see what Amp its pulling when opened at dash button. In fact I have done very little in the garage for this project as of yet.
3)I am understanding the door lock/unlock are low current connections at GEM module and require no relays, this correct?
4)The running lights and the dome light will require relays, true?
5)And since the car is factory equipped with security, do I need to isolate the drivers door trigger with diode or is that for adding external alarm system only? I assume this connection is made at the 24-pin harness H2/12(+)if monitoring all doors with one wire at kick panel or H2/6(-) if individual per door connections at GEM module per Viper 4104 as a safety interlock to disable remote start if door is open. I have no access to www.directechs.com, etc., as I am not a business, just a guy with a stubborn streak that goes way back...I fix things, even those things that aren't broke, and they all usually end up working better than before.
What I am worried about is over current on delicate transistor circuits mainly and smoking a small box with a bunch of wire coming out of it a week before Christmas... oh, and of course not figuring out how to make the Christmas gift thing work out. I want to see her face when she unwraps a remote with a new key and asks, "To what?" and I calmly answer "Well,...push the little button dear"!! It'll be great!
I thank you in advance and your help will be greatly appreciated!
Patrick




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 14, 2013 at 9:07 AM

Hi Patrick,
Here are some answers to your questions.

I was told by seller and read that the bypass was self configuring and ready for install(also mentioned on packaging).
1)Does it still need to be flashed with latest version FORD ware? I could do this over web if I needed to? I am not a
dealer/installer business.
The PKALL should have a white sticker on it with the factory loaded Software Vr. number on it.  Currently Vr. 4.06 is the
latest ( for several years ).  Older versions will probably work, too.  Here is a link to the install guide :
https://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=6423&productid=196&firmwareid=1636
The transponder wires colors should be :
Taurus 2002     TX  Pin 4  Gray/Red         RX  Pin 3  BROWN / Yellow

2)Is the 2002 Taurus higher current at the trunk release needing a relay wired in? I am seeing it is (-) but haven't inserted
meter to see what Amp its pulling when opened at dash button. In fact I have done very little in the garage for this project
as of yet.
I believe that if your Taurus did not have Factory Remote Keyless Entry, the Trunk Release will be a (+) signal on a Gray/Red
wire at the trunk release switch.  You can visually verify and use a DMM to test for this at the Trunk Release switch.   If it
does test as (+), you will need a relay to convert your (-) Trunk Release output to a (+) the car needs.
 
3)I am understanding the door lock/unlock are low current connections at GEM module and require no relays, this correct?
Correct, no relays needed for the Lock and Unlock wires at the GEM 26 Pin connector.
 
4)The running lights and the dome light will require relays, true?
For the Parking Lights, the 4104's Parking Light Jumper/Fuse should be in the (+) position and the H1/5 White wire can be
directly connected to the Brown wire at the Headlight switch ( shown in Pictorial ).  You may not need to connect the Dome
Light Supervision wire.  The test will be to see if the dome lights come on when you connect the 4104 and press the Unlock
button and unlock the doors.  Most newer cars have this feature built-in.

5)And since the car is factory equipped with security, do I need to isolate the drivers door trigger with diode or is that for
adding external alarm system only? I assume this connection is made at the 24-pin harness H2/12(+)if monitoring all doors
with one wire at kick panel or H2/6(-) if individual per door connections at GEM module per Viper 4104 as a safety interlock to
disable remote start if door is open.
Might be some confusion here.  First, does your car have the Factory Alarm system?  The anti-theft immobilizer system
( transponder ignition keys ) is not an alarm system.  Being as your car did not come with factory RKE, I doubt it came with
the Factory Alarm.  You can test for it by :
1. Start with doors closed, engine running.
2. Turn off engine.
3. Stay seated but open drivers door, press Lock, then pull door closed.
4. Watch dash for blinking light.
5. Wait two minutes, then use drivers door inner handle to open the door.
6. Any horn beeping???
If you have the Factory Alarm, use the H2/4 Factory Alarm Disarm Output to the Pink/White wire @ the 26 Pin plug at the GEM
shown in Pictorial.

The 4104 is not an alarm system and does not need to be connected to the cars Door Trigger wires.  That is only needed for
an install in a Manual Trans vehicle to enable Reservation Mode.   The 4104 will remote start the engine if a door is open.  It
will not start the car if the Hood is open.  Remember that even if all the doors were open and 4 criminals jumped into the car
while remote started, the steering wheel and transmission shifter are still locked ( no key in the IGN position ) and as soon
as the Brake Pedal is depressed, the engine shuts down.

Hopefully you have a warm place to do the install.  Just go slow, locate, verify and test all wires with a DMM and make quality solder connections.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: e129745
Date Posted: December 14, 2013 at 3:55 PM
kreg357,
Now that is an awesome response! Thanks for the details! My confidence just increased exponentially!
I hope to get the wife's car alone when she's at work next weekend and believe I have a solid vision of what I will be needing to do as to the install. I appreciate that this forum is available to me and I thank all of you!
Merry Christmas!
Patrick




Posted By: e129745
Date Posted: December 14, 2013 at 4:05 PM
Oops, I was hasty, as to point 5); to be sure, then I don't need to connect any "door input" wires? These door inputs are Alarm triggers? I think you explained it clearly when you mentioned "remote will start with doors open, hood has interlock.
Thanks again,
Patrick




Posted By: e129745
Date Posted: December 22, 2013 at 5:46 AM
Have things pretty much prepped for Viper 4104 Keyless/Remote Start using PKALL into 2002 Taurus, no OEM Keyless.
I need 3 things clarified at this point; then I think I'm ready to connect and then program (I think Auto Trans needs programed and I want Rear Defogger also, see below)
1) PKALL "Blue/Wht to 12V(-) While Running"; Connect to 4104 connector H2/9 Drk Blue Status Output?

2) PKALL (+)Ignition Pink to RED / LtGrn Ignition(+) along with H3/1?

3) Viper 4104 Install Manual ©2011 pg.15 Menu Chart calls out Item 11 "Status 2". I want to use this as Rear Defogger Output from H2/3 Blue/White Opt.2-Latched, but pg.16 Item 11 Text reads; "11. Status 2 Output (Dark Blue H2/9 wire). Pg. 6 shows H2/9 as "(-)200mA STATUS OUTPUT", NOT Status 2. Is this a typo/discrepancy I'm seeing or what am I missing? Should it call out "Blue/White H2/3" instead? I see that with some strategic assigning/programing I could get what is needed done, but what is a straight forward default wiring scheme for this?

For heavy connector H3 I'm going ;
H3/1 to RED / LtGr Ignition
H3/2 LtGrn/Purple Constant 12V+
H3/3 Gry / YELLOW Accessory1
H3/4 RED / Lt Blue Starter
H3/5 also LtGrn/Purple Constant 12V+
H3/6 Blk/Grn Accessory2
H3/7 NA
H3/8 also LtGrn/Purple Constant 12V+
Look OK?

Thanks for your time and Merry Christmas!
Patrick




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 22, 2013 at 2:44 PM
and Merry Christmas to you, Patrick. Time is running short, so you better plug in your soldering iron soon. posted_image

1. Yes

2. Yes

3. Yes, your wiring looks good.   There should be 4 Light GREEN/ Purple +12V constant wires in the ignition harness, so connect
each of the 4 Viper power wires to a different one.

Don't forget to program the Viper for Flex Relay = ACC2. Menu 3, Item 8, Option 2.

Good catch with the typo's in the 4104 install guide. You are correct ( that's 4 for 4 posted_image ). The H2/9 Dark Blue is only (-) Status Output. The H2/3
Blue/White wire is the one they are talking about in Menu 3, Item 11. H2/3 is default 2nd Status Output but can be programmed
to a latched or a single pulse Defog actuator.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: e129745
Date Posted: December 22, 2013 at 4:50 PM
Alrighty, Thanks kreg357!
And thanks for noting that the Flex Relay needs to be programed to Accessory 2. It appears to come defaulted as Ignition 2.
As to the Defogger, I can program H2/3 Status 2 Output as Opt.2 a Latched Timed Rear Defogger to drive a polarity reversing relay at relay pin 85. Then pull 12V(+)lead from vehicle's Gray / YELLOW Acc. harness and 10A fuse this link to Relay pins 30/86 and put relay 87 directly to window grid at pin 18 of C270c connector of Control Junction Box. (I'm getting my vehicle wiring from alldataDIY.com. The sight charges per vehicle. Not much and well worth the minimal $ to me since the info is what is available to dealers in all aspects of auto repair, wiring included.)
But it makes more sense to program H2/3 from Status 2 to opt. 3 Pulsed Defogger, connecting it to pin 6 of 20 pin connector C201b at GEM. This looks to me to allow vehicle timer to control duration of defogger by simulating dash switch actuation. I'm just not sure of polarity of momentary dash defogger switch. If (-), then this seems to be the way to go.
Can you recommend a common method for defogger option?




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 22, 2013 at 7:55 PM
The only info I have on the Rear Defog is from Audiovox.  They have it listed as :
Black (+) @ Defrost switch  ( BROWN / Lt Blue in wagons )
This info does not included any latched or pulse data, so testing would be required.  Looks like your AllData info is going
to be more accurate / complete.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: e129745
Date Posted: December 22, 2013 at 9:39 PM
Update to Rear Window Defogger on my 2002 Taurus Sedan;
Dash momentary button provides (-) to GEM DrkBlue/Orange pin6 of 20pin connector C201b (1 of 3 GEM connectors). The GEM continues to offer timed (-) to Pin 86 coil of Defogger Relay located in CJB (Central Junction Box) Therefore H2/3 (-) 200mA can be programed opt.3 Pulse which should operate Defogger without adding a relay and will also light Dash Defogger LED indicator, timing out with factory timer. Cool!
I will connect as stated and provide status if successful, but it looks good to me. Use your own discretion. If mine smokes, yours will, too!posted_image
I am not affiliated with them but I would like to mention the alldataDIY.com annual fee is $27 1st vehicle and $17 each additional. Renewals are cheaper, I paid $10 and added a sons vehicle for an additional $10 and is good for a year. They have a 5 year subscription that is further discounted as well. They are likely running a Christmas discount for new subscriptions if you check it out. Very accurate and thorough info. and some stuff is hard to get, impossible from a Chiltons or similar. Covers all wiring, Trans, Engine, Brakes, etc. You see what the Dealerships see.
Patrick




Posted By: e129745
Date Posted: December 25, 2013 at 12:38 PM
It's CHRISTMAS morning and everything went as planned, but only thanks to your help!! She almost cried, but being the strong woman she is...
Thank You, she really does deserve it!
As for the rear defogger, it works as I stated in my last instructions/post above, just offer (-) pulse to GEM 20 pin connector at pin 6 DKBLU/OR for 2002 Taurus.
Trunk Pop isn't working, I need to check my relay wiring. Relay is unmarked Song Chuan, I need to double check the data sheet. I did solder directly to relay pins, the heat may have been too much. I'll check into to this.
Thanks again,




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 25, 2013 at 7:15 PM

A happy Wife is very important.  Good to hear it's installed and working properly.  I'll make a note of that rear Defroster
wire for the next Taurus of that generation.  Testing the trunk relay should be easy, it's just a switch controlled by an
electro-magnet.  I have soldered wires directly on to the terminal lugs with no ill effects.

Better order a 1 lb roll of solder.  Once the word gets out to friends and relatives about your R/S install, you could be
very busy.    posted_image



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: e129745
Date Posted: December 26, 2013 at 4:45 AM
I might be willing to buy a 2lb. roll if I can figure this one out, :posted_image The trunk release has got me stumped. I tried a few things and I am tire and its late. Thought I'd throw my thoughts out here and get to bed.
I wired 10A fused +12V constant feed from vehicle LtGrn/Purple (which is also connector H/3,H/5, or H/8) to Relay coil 86 tied to Relay leg 30. The other side of relay coil 85 has (-)200mA RED / Wht Trunk Release Output of Viper. The remaining Relay 87 went to Release solenoid coil. OK, good, (-) output energizing relay to send +12V to solenoid. Didn't function. Investigation found my added +12V constant feed 10A fuse to Relay 86/30 blown. Replaced, but again it blew. Put 2A fuse across dash switch and trunk popped, but fuse OK. Removed relay and put 10A fused lead wired that was Relay 86 and put it to solenoid coil Gray/Red wire. Fuse blew. hmmm...Then I got really tired and tried wiring the relay as it was for reverse polarity, but used the hot side of the dash trunk switch as the pins 86 and 30 of the relay, no go. Of course I didn't think to fuse this hot wire, although the vehicle has it fused at 20A.

So, the momentary trunk release dash switch Violet / YELLOW is hot all times at +11.9V. with Gray/Red other side to release solenoid coil. The constant feed from below dash LtGrn/Purple shows 12.9V.
Any ideas so far?
What is the output (-) relative to? Ground or 12V+? How can I test the output for functionality now? Maybe I blew the output transistor? I did try to measure this (-) output to ground with a meter set on stun... I mean on audible continuity and pressing the remote button. I now hope I didn't inject too much into the transistor. It appears to have functioned a couple of times, enough to blow the fuse the first couple of times, but now I'd like to know that it is still functioning. I then hope to figure out how to use this (-) trigger to get the trunk release to function. Maybe I'm not seeing a simple thing you could point out.
Thanks again,
Patrick




Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: December 26, 2013 at 5:39 AM
How about this relay diagram...

86 - remains fused and to your lt GREEN/ purple 12 volt source
85 - remains to your trunk output from viper
87 - remains at the trunk release wire behind the switch
30 - connect to the other wire behind the trunk release switch

This will duplicate what you did with the 2 amp fuse when the relay activates.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 26, 2013 at 7:01 AM
 X2 with Flobee4.  Before adding the relay back into the circuit, reconnect the cut Gray/Red wire and verify that the cars Trunk Release switch is working normally.  It is possible that the "5 wire REV" relay test blew the vehicles trunk release circuit fuse.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: e129745
Date Posted: December 26, 2013 at 4:46 PM
Thanks guys,
I think I did as flobee4 suggests, I don't think it worked, but I'll try again. I know the OEM release is still working, OEM fuses intact. I was wondering if I burned the trunk output out since it didn't work. That's why I was wondering how to test for output function with either LED or meter.
Off to work now, I'll see about relay hookups with 30 to other dash switch wire per above tonight.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 26, 2013 at 5:34 PM

Using a DMM to test the Viper 4104 H2/5 RED / White (-) 200mA Trunk Release output :

Set the DMM to 20 V DC range. 
Connect the Red test lead to +12V constant. 
Connect the Black test lead to the H2/5 RED / White wire.
Press the Viper remote AUX button for 2 seconds. 
The Parking lights should flash and the DMM should go to +12 volts while the AUX button is depressed.

If this works and the relays' coil tests OK, it is possible the Vipers' output is working but not at full power and the relays coil
load is too much for it.  You could try using the AUX1 output for the trunk release relay control instead.

Was this Viper a re-furb unit?



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: e129745
Date Posted: December 27, 2013 at 4:23 AM
Thanks guys, ya kreg357, it is a "refurbish by manufacturer" unit. I didn't know this till I received it in a white box labeled as such. I should've known from the price, I paid $59.99 for it, (although the remotes were shrink wrapped and new looking when received)
I got home and used my 12V constant source as Relay coil power and Viper Trunk Output (-) as coil trigger; 85, 86, then both sides of Dash momentary switch to 87/30 of Relay. OK, then Press and Hold remote Aux button and...it works!
I was pretty exhausted last night and was feeling pretty skittish about pressing and holding any button down for fear of blowing something. You gotta hold button 2-3 seconds before activation!
Awesome you guys! Thank you so much for your interest and aid in my endeavor. You have affected a couple of people more than you may think and we both thank you!

God Bless us all,

Patrick




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 27, 2013 at 7:29 AM

Good job, Patrick!  posted_image

Most of the re-furb units come with brand new remotes & new / un-used wire harnesses and typically work fine.  We have seen a few on this forum that had issues but whether it was re-furb quality control or DIYer install error is not clear.

Many R/S systems require a 2 - 3 second press and hold for the Trunk Release and the output will continue ( for up to another 5 seconds ) if the button is held.

Anyway, it's all installed and working.  The Wife is happy.  You have two working, unique, keys.  If you plan on keeping the car for several more years, now is the time to buy a blank transponder key ( $8 EBay ), get it cut at the local hardware store ( $2 ) and program it yourself to the car ( similar process to programming the bypass module ).   It will function just like a Factory key for all intents and purposes ( it isn't a clone ).  Plus it's a lot cheaper than the one you just had made by the dealer.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: hemi93
Date Posted: January 09, 2015 at 2:18 PM
I am installing the Viper 4205v on my 2003 ford Taurus. I was wondering where i connect the Satellite Harness to and i had a few questions about where to hook up the activation input and the ground when locked.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: January 09, 2015 at 2:55 PM

For the basic R/S install the above mentioned wires will not be used :
H1/4  WHITE/ BLUE  (-) ACTIVATION INPUT
H1/5  ORANGE  (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED

Is this is the Satellite Harness you are referring to ?
4-pin satellite harness diagram
1  BLUE  STATUS OUTPUT
2  ORANGE  (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3  PURPLE  (-) STARTER OUTPUT
4  PINK  (-) IGNITION OUTPUT

Depending on the bypass module used and it's connection mode ( W2W or D2D ), you might
use the BLUE  STATUS OUTPUT wire.   The other wires in that harness are not necessary with
the typical install on your Taurus.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: hemi93
Date Posted: January 11, 2015 at 10:41 AM
Alright thanks for helping me with that. I just had a few more wires i had questions about.. On the Remote Start Harness (H3) pin 1 is a neutral safety switch input. Where would that get connected too. And is it possible to hook up the rear defogger on this install. Im assumming ill need a relay to do it. Its pin 5 on the (H3) harness and on my db-all2 what is the RAP Off get connected to?




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: January 11, 2015 at 3:38 PM

On your Viper 4205, the Neutral Safety wire is connected to Chassis Ground.  This is typical for any vehicle with an automatic trans.

Here is some info from earlier on this Pictorial from forum member e129745 ( Patrick ) concerning the rear defroster :
Update to Rear Window Defogger on my 2002 Taurus Sedan;
Dash momentary button provides (-) to GEM DrkBlue/Orange pin6 of 20pin connector C201b (1 of 3 GEM connectors). The GEM
continues to offer timed (-) to Pin 86 coil of Defogger Relay located in CJB (Central Junction Box) Therefore H2/3 (-) 200mA can be
programed opt.3 Pulse which should operate Defogger without adding a relay and will also light Dash Defogger LED indicator,
timing out with factory timer. Cool!

His was a 2002 Taurus so test and verify.  If it tests properly, no relay is needed.

As for the DB-ALL2's RAP connection, follow the DB-ALL2's install guide / diagram.  Here is the Driver's Door Trigger wire info :
ReadyRemote
Driver Door Trigger       Yellow/Black   @ GEM 26 Pin Plug



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Soldering is fun!





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