audio whine after remote start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=100208
Printed Date: June 05, 2024 at 6:53 PM
Topic: audio whine after remote start
Posted By: dbrown32
Subject: audio whine after remote start
Date Posted: December 18, 2007 at 10:21 PM
Here's a weird one. I just installed a Viper 160XVL in my 2005 Tahoe Z71. Used a DEI 1700G1 bypass module. Having a couple issues with it: 1) After remote start, the factory DVD has a loud whine, and I have to turn the truck off, then back on for it to go away. I thought maybe the tach wire was inducing this, so I removed it, and it still remains. 2) I can't remote start while the "Security" indicator is on. In other words. if I lock the doors with the remote, if I try to remote start before the security indicator goes off, it just cranks for a second, then shuts off. Is this normal? If so, it's not a big deal. 3) When remote starting, "service tire monitor system" displays in the message center. I have powered (and verified) the Orange and Brown accessory wires, as well as the 1st and 2nd ignition wires. Any ideas? Thanks.
Replies:
Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: December 18, 2007 at 10:59 PM
DVD whine -- where are you tapping into to obtain 12 volts for the main power supply for the r/s brain? Sounds like you're not getting a good power feed to your accessory wires -- did you go straight to the battery or are you using 12 volts in the ignition harness? Re: security indicator -- might be something to do w/ the factory immobilizer bypass "resetting" .. Tire monitor .. again, sounds like a power issue .. something is not right with the power distribution to accessory and ignition circuits. ------------- The search function is your friend.
Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: December 18, 2007 at 11:34 PM
There is a factory disarm wire LIGHT GREEN (-) IN DRIVERS DOOR. Trigger with GREEN/ black from Viper 160xvl module 4 pin plug, that should help disarm factory alarm. The anti theft is a regular passlock 2 easily bypassed with relays and a resistor.
There is a white wire which is ignition 2 that needs to be powered or you will not power vital circuits and cause error codes such as tire pressure and possibly damage transmission like in Blazer models. You may not need to power the brown wire, it may only power radio and wiper circuit.
If you cannot get rid of whine, I will suggest re grounding all grounds from remote starter to a factory bolt in kick panel first and see if noise goes away.
Battery RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 PINK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 2 WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1 ORANGE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti-Theft Type PASSLOCK LOCK II
Anti-Theft Descript RESISTANCE BASED
Key Sense LIGHT GREEN (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Tachometer ANY UNCOMMON WIRE COLOR (AC) ANY FUEL INJECTOR OR COIL PACK
Parking Lights BROWN (+) DRIVERS KICK PANEL
Brake Lights WHITE (+) AT BRAKE SWITCH
Horn BLACK (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
MAY ALSO BE BLACK AT BCM MODULE
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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya
Posted By: dbrown32
Date Posted: December 19, 2007 at 12:13 AM
Hmm. I was told that I didn't need to worry about passlock, that the 1700G would take care of it through the databus. I did pull 12V from the ignition wires, soldered connections. All grounds are in the same place, and to a clean bolt on the body. It's got to be something wacky with the factory alarm or 1700G, because all circuits that are hot during normal start/run are hot during remote start. That DVD thing is really wierd though.
Posted By: dbrown32
Date Posted: December 19, 2007 at 12:21 AM
As a side note, the "white" wire I powered for the 2nd ignition circuit looked yellow to me. It was with the brown and orange wires in the harness right behind the fuse panel, coming from the ignition harness. I checked the wire before tapping, and it was in fact hot during acc/run and crank. Can anyone confirm that this is the correct 2nd ignition wire? Thanks.
Posted By: perly
Date Posted: December 19, 2007 at 5:37 AM
dbrown32 wrote:
As a side note, the "white" wire I powered for the 2nd ignition circuit looked yellow to me. It was with the brown and orange wires in the harness right behind the fuse panel, coming from the ignition harness. I checked the wire before tapping, and it was in fact hot during acc/run and crank. Can anyone confirm that this is the correct 2nd ignition wire? Thanks.
Yes that is the correct sec ign wire and I believe that the orange wire it is beside should have been your ACC wire.
Posted By: perly
Date Posted: December 19, 2007 at 5:39 AM
On a side note I know the last Chev I did my "yellow" starter wire looked really white to me. It seems that the whites and yellows are not too different in the Chevs.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: December 19, 2007 at 9:11 AM
If I'm reading what you said correctly, it sounds like you're on the right Ignition 2 wire.
On that truck, it'll show power the very instant you start to move the key forward from "off," all the way through "start." It powers up WAY earlier than the pink ignition wire.
Posted By: dbrown32
Date Posted: December 19, 2007 at 11:02 AM
Yeah, I noticed that when the key is barely moved from "off", that wire shows power. I'm starting to think maybe my 1700 module is bad. I'm going to try another.
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