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562t, ignition 2, tach, and factory arm

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=100586
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 6:17 AM


Topic: 562t, ignition 2, tach, and factory arm

Posted By: swingwing
Subject: 562t, ignition 2, tach, and factory arm
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 4:19 PM

Looking for some help installing a 562T in an 06 Subaru Legacy 2.5i (no transponder key).  I'm having problems with the following wires:

Pink/White (heavy gauge wire on satellite relay) doesn't provide 12v.  Both red wires on satellite relay are tapped into 50A battery circuits (confirmed with voltmeter).  I didn't connect the RED / white wire.  The Pink wire does provide 12v.  I noticed this because when the car remote starts, the HVAC isn't powered.  If I swap the pink and pink/white wires, the HVAC is powered, but the car won't start--I think IG1 powers the car's ignition relay.  Both Question:  does the heavy gauge RED / white wires on the relay harness provide power to IG2 circuit?

Tach signal--conflicting info on whether I should use pin 22 or 23 on the ECM harness, both all sources say it should be red.  I used the red wire, 562T seemed to learn the tach signal, but when the car remote starts, the starter keeps going.  For now I've switched to voltage sense with a 1.4 sec start period.  I'll look into using one of the injector wires later.  Sound like a good plan?

Factory Alarm Arm wire--all sources say this should be a brown wire on pin 3 of 35-pin plug at BIU, but that wire is red on my car.  I have the correct plug because the other wires there are correct (door lock/unlock, defog, trunk).  I tried using factory manual to figure this out--driver's door key circuit should arm/disarm factory security, but along the way I blew a fuse (that killed radio, map lights, clock display, oem remote entry, and alarm).  WIth fuse blown, car would remote start.  After replacing fuse, car won't remote start--factory "security" light is still flashing, indicating alarm is still on, I guess.  Any advice on the arm/disarm wires?

Thanks!




Replies:

Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 6:08 PM

Pink/White -- use menu#2 to select what you want this wire to be .. it defaults to second ignition (need to make this second accessory)

Tach -- go to the coil -- I've always had cleaner more reliable starts running a wire to the injector or coil

Factory alarm -- you can choose to unlock-start-re-lock after start... easy way to defeat the alarm.



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Posted By: bbtaco
Date Posted: December 30, 2007 at 10:52 PM
The RED / white wire must be connected to 12 volt constant. It provides power for the pink/white wire.




Posted By: swingwing
Date Posted: December 31, 2007 at 1:35 AM

pete and bbtaco--thanks for the answers!

For the pink/white wire, I had considered switching it to second accessory, but didn't think it would work.  The components that aren't getting power (AC/blower fan/rear defog relays) are all powered by the car's IG2 circuit.  I'll try the menu switch and if doesn't work I'll hook up the RED / white wire.

pete, for your factory alarm answer, do you mean unlock with the oem fob, then remote start, then relock with the oem fob?  I'll try that suggestion, but that would require carrying two fobs.  I'd like to figure out how to use the 562T's built-in alarm arm/disarm.

I appreciate the help!





Posted By: swingwing
Date Posted: January 06, 2008 at 11:12 PM

Follow up, with answers to my own questions:

RED / White (heavy gauge wire on satellite relay) must be connected to a 12v source for Pink/White wire (IG2) to have 12v when car is remote started.  Leave the 562T's menu default for Pink/White as IG2.  IG2 powers the HVAC and rear refogger.

Tach signal--for 2006-2007 Legacy 2.5i, pink wire at pin 22 of 35-pin ECM connector (2nd connector from top of four on ECM).  ECM is under carpet beneath glovebox.  Much easier place to find this same wire is behind passenger's kick panel:  pink wire at pin 19 of 20-pin white connector.

Factory Alarm Arm wire--doesn't exist for 2006-07.  I think I can use the driver's door lock button wire to arm the alarm, but I'll work on that later.  For now, I'm using the driver's button to arm the alarm when exiting.  The disarm wire does exist and works (yellow/red wire at pin 12 of 35-pin gray plug on BIU).

Note:  All 2006 Legacy models have the immobilizer key (in 2005, the 2.5i didn't).  I didn't know that at first...my bypass kit is now on order.





Posted By: audioman2007
Date Posted: January 07, 2008 at 10:41 AM

Why cant you just simply disarm your factory alarm with your factory remote and then just dont use that remote anymore? Thats what I did with mine. Mostly all car alarms have wires to run to the factory alarm to arm and disarm them. But some cars wont work that way. By doing what I just said, you dont have to worry about messing with the factory alarm's wiring thus possibly messing something up.





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 07, 2008 at 4:38 PM
posted_imageAlarm Disarm YELLOW/RED (-) DRIVERS KICK 
posted_imageAlarm Arm BROWN (-) DRIVERS KICK
posted_imageTachometer ANY UNCOMMON WIRE COLOR (AC) ANY FUEL INJECTOR





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