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’07 g6 remote start

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=102174
Printed Date: June 01, 2024 at 2:12 AM


Topic: ’07 g6 remote start

Posted By: pros_sack
Subject: ’07 g6 remote start
Date Posted: February 13, 2008 at 7:02 PM

I was just wondering the technical aspect of a Pontiac G6.

The key has a circle plus symbol on it, however i read somewhere that it's not actually a PK3+ system unless the V.I.N. starts with a 2 or 3.  This one starts with a 1.

Going by the limited resources available on the internet for wiring diagrams for a 2007 G6, I made a key wrap and wired into the ignition (pink) and acc (brown).  Also the door locks, brake and trunk.

It wouldn't start consistantly so i started playing with it and with the advice of someone else on a previous posting on this wonderful site.  I (manually with jumper wires) powered up the acc wire first, then the ign, dropped the acc power and it'd start.

long story short i only did a key wrap in the vehicle and wondering how many other people have tried this, and/or if there's problems not doing the passlock (resistor) bypass as well.

right now the vehicle starts everytime with no problems and no warning/malfunction lights on the dash.




Replies:

Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: February 13, 2008 at 7:39 PM
I'm amazed that it starts consistantly with just the transponder without the 1.3k resistor between the white and WHITE/ black. Keep us informed if it doesn't start anymore. What brand remote starter did you use?

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.




Posted By: StealthEs
Date Posted: February 13, 2008 at 7:40 PM
On the newer GMs just because the check engine light doesnt come on doesn't mean it hasn't thrown a code. Theres a resistance you need to get right otherwise it will store a code that will come up when the dealer plugs in the scanner. Something to keep in mind, last thing you want is to be blame for a problem unrelated to the R/S just because you throw a code.

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Cris




Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: February 13, 2008 at 7:46 PM
It probably has both resistance and transponder anti-theft.

    Vehicle Year           Resistor code   Voltage reference    Ignition
Pontiac G6 2007-2005   White        WHITE/ Black          Pink

Battery          RED / WHITE     (+)     IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
Ignition 1     PINK          (+)     IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
Accessory 1     BROWN          (+)     IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
Anti-Theft Type          GM PASSKEY III® VEHICLE IMMOBILIZER     
Anti-Theft Descript     THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER     
Tachometer     TAN          (-)     AT FUEL INJECTOR OR PCM MODULE BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE HEADLIGHT UNDER HOOD     PLUG C2 - PIN #5     
Parking Lights     WHITE             (-)     AT BCM MODULE BEHIND TRIM AT FRONT OF CENTER CONSOLE ON PASSENGER SIDE     PLUG C2 - PIN #5     
Brake Lights     WHITE          (+)     AT BCM MODULE     
Horn          TAN          (-)     AT BCM MODULE BEHIND TRIM AT FRONT OF CENTER CONSOLE ON PASSENGER SIDE     PLUG C1 - PIN #13     
Power Unlock          WHITE     (-)     AT BCM MODULE BEHIND TRIM AT FRONT OF CENTER CONSOLE ON PASSENGER SIDE     USE 1.5K OHM RESISTOR     
PowerLock          WHITE     (-)     AT BCM MODULE BEHIND TRIM AT FRONT OF CENTER CONSOLE ON PASSENGER SIDE PIN #66 - TAN PLUG     

needs to see correct resistance value along with proper "key" code from transponder. Wrap key and use relay to activate and also use relay with correct resistance value. You could just get a bypass module that can do all of that and will cut your installation time down and any additional parts you will need to mess with in order to get it working properly.

Bypasskit model PKUGM2X     


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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya




Posted By: pros_sack
Date Posted: February 13, 2008 at 10:13 PM

I used a Galaxy 2000 (scytek).

Turns out the keys weren't origionals.  All of them were new cut copies (the origionals weren't available, maybe it was a repo car), and since the circle plus key has the same chip inside it as the pk3, i think the locksmith just cut all new circle plus keys for some odd reason(maybe thats all he had in stock).

yes, that bypass module would have been quite handy, but it was a spur of the moment thing and thought it could be done without it.

I do understand the idea that it might be storing a code, but i'm not convinced that the car actually is a circle plus car.  Is there anyway to find out for sure?  I called Pontiac customer service and they are getting back to me about it tomorrow.





Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: February 13, 2008 at 11:43 PM
if its a 2007 it more then likely is. Audiovox and DEI say passkey III

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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya




Posted By: pros_sack
Date Posted: February 14, 2008 at 3:31 PM
passkey III is just the transponder though




Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: February 14, 2008 at 4:08 PM
The car uses a transponder in the key to immobilize the starter and fuel. The + sign on the key indicates that the car is the hybrid version in terms of starting and the immobilizer. The ignition switch has an internal circuit which produces a resistance circuit which the BCM reads during start. If the BCM receives the correct signal, it tells the PCM to activate the starter relay. You really need to intergrate the system properly. You run the risk of causing major problems with the BCM. It can completely lock you out from starting the car until you have a dealer reprogram most or all of the anti-theft components. Don't fool yourself into thinking that your car is somehow different than the other million cars like it. The correct modules aren't that expensive and will make the system work correctly. The first digit in the VIN has nothing to do with whether or not it has the anti theft feature. The first digit indicates the country the car was built in. 1 means USA built. FYI

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sparky




Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 14, 2008 at 6:01 PM
I've done all of my new-style GM installs without all that fancy resistor stuff. No comebacks or complaints. It's all dealer work, so I'd hear right from the dealer if there was a problem.

A lot of cars store various codes even when remote started "by the book."

However, codes or no codes, basic troubleshooting is still in order. We can argue that he should be hooking up the resistor.........but that's still not what's keeping the car from remote starting.

pros_sack:

Yes, that car uses circle-plus keys. I can't think of any late model GM that doesn't.

The first step is to temporarily disconnect/unplug your bypass, insert a known good key most of the way into the ignition (NOT enough to trigger keysense, just most of the way), and try the remote start.

--If it works now, then your transponder bypass is faulty and needs work.

--On the other hand, if it still doesn't work, the timing of your Galaxy's ignition and accessory outputs doesn't make the car happy.

Does that unit also have an Ignition 2 output? And is there some sort of programming option for "off during crank?" Try using that instead of the remote starter's accessory output, and see if it makes any difference.




Posted By: pros_sack
Date Posted: February 17, 2008 at 4:26 PM

Chris:

Thanks for the ideas, but as is the whole system is working.  My keywrap works well and the car starts everytime.  The only time i had problems with it starting was using the galaxy acc wire which is powered up at the same time as the ignition wires.

I used 2 relays to activate the acc wire first;

-The 1st relay (ground out when running(85) and constant power(86)) supplies power to the 2nd relay(30)

-The starter wire from the Galaxy triggers the 2nd relay(86 with ground at 85). 

-From the 2nd relay the 87a is my acc wire to the car. 





Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: February 18, 2008 at 8:45 AM

Question to pros_sack, do you do this for a living? If not, you understand more than most I speak with.



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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.




Posted By: pros_sack
Date Posted: February 18, 2008 at 10:38 AM

it's a small part in my life.

I'm a college student so i don't have that much time available to work, but i have been doing them for a longer period of time.

I'm the only electronics guy at the shop, so anything and everything goes through me.  Small town so good help is hard to find.  

But that also means i have no one to ask questions when i get stumped.





Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: March 14, 2008 at 12:49 PM
UPDATE: I just troubleshot an installation with a new car dealer doing a DEI 562 in a 2008 Canyon. 

After car wouldn’t start, we removed bypass module off the cut WHITE/ Blue r-wire at ignition switch.

We connected ACC and IGN of r-starter to ignition switch, made sure ACC dropped out during crank and put a key in a 556U just like a regular older style Passkey system and truck started and ran OK….no codes. No relays and figuring resistances.

Thanks for the tip Mr. Luongo



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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.





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