Facts:
- I have a 2008 Toyota Tacoma DoubleCab automatic 4x4 TRD Offroad. It has factory cruise control, power everything.
- I live in Hillsboro, Oregon
- Everything is stock, but I plan on adding a deck, speakers, sub, Memphis MCA3004 and MCD1000, and Kinetik powercell
- I already have the amps and the powercell from my last vehicle
Questions (I have a lot, so feel free to write me a novel - I'm looking to cover a lot of ground in one fell swoop):
I am looking to add a security and remote start system before anything else.
- Car Toys, Car Stereo City, or someone else? My buddy got burned having his security and r/s installed on his '97 Caddy DeVille by a small shop who borked the whole thing, and then had the grief of having to take it to that shop to fix it - big problem now that he moved 400 miles away. I don't want the same hassle, I know that Car Toys can be found all over the place in my area, and the work is warrantied. However, Car Toys is the most expensive. Car Stereo City seems the next best, has a few stores around the Portland area, is much more inexpensive (products + labor), and they are both selling DEI product (Car Toys with Clifford, Car Stereo City with Viper/Python/Hornet). Do I write off the extra couple hundred for peace of mind with Car Toys, or am I good to save a buck with Car Stereo City?
- My buddy's Cadillac was a nightmare for security, needing expensive, very specific bypass modules. I want to make sure there are no surprise fees, or worse off, any parts that may inhibit the vehicle. How difficult is the Tacoma? Do I need to specifically demand that my alarm and r/s get installed with an Omega Research IM05-PKT2 immobilizer bypass, PASS-4 (plus key) RF bypass, and an Audiovox 2501779 cruise control interface (is that a bypass or an aftermarket CC?)? Can I get more generic bypasses? Do I need only some of those bypasses?
- The basic models I'm looking at are the Viper 5900 and the 5701. Is one better than the other, or personal preference? What's your preference?
- One guy said I want a glass break sensor, another guy said it's pointless because the shock sensor takes care of it. What's the truth?
- Any sensors I need to think about beyond the basic system?
- One of the salesman tried telling me I needed some sort of backup deal, so the security would work in case someone cut the leads to the battery. Is this just being overprotective? Since I have it, Is it smart for them to run secondary power from the Kinetik power cell to the security?
- Anything else to watch out for?
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Marty DiBergi: Put it up to eleven.
Nigel Tufnel: Eleven. Exactly. One louder.
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morthane wrote:
- Car Toys, Car Stereo City, or someone else? My buddy got burned having his security and r/s installed on his '97 Caddy DeVille by a small shop who borked the whole thing, and then had the grief of having to take it to that shop to fix it - big problem now that he moved 400 miles away. I don't want the same hassle, I know that Car Toys can be found all over the place in my area, and the work is warrantied. However, Car Toys is the most expensive. Car Stereo City seems the next best, has a few stores around the Portland area, is much more inexpensive (products + labor), and they are both selling DEI product (Car Toys with Clifford, Car Stereo City with Viper/Python/Hornet). Do I write off the extra couple hundred for peace of mind with Car Toys, or am I good to save a buck with Car Stereo City?
I'm not familiar with either of those chains since we don't have them in PA; however what I can suggest you do is talk to the head installer/manager at any store you are considering, and ask them nonchalantly where the control module would go on an alarm.
If the answer is "right under the dash on the driver's side" go to another store. What you have there is either lazy installers or management whose sole concern is how fast they can get one car out and another in.
The correct answer should be "behind the radio/HVAC controls/instrument cluster, or wherever else is inaccessible to the average car thief." Pay whatever extra the shop charges who gives you that answer, it'll be well worth it.
morthane wrote:
My buddy's Cadillac was a nightmare for security, needing expensive, very specific bypass modules. I want to make sure there are no surprise fees, or worse off, any parts that may inhibit the vehicle. How difficult is the Tacoma? Do I need to specifically demand that my alarm and r/s get installed with an Omega Research IM05-PKT2 immobilizer bypass, PASS-4 (plus key) RF bypass, and an Audiovox 2501779 cruise control interface (is that a bypass or an aftermarket CC?)? Can I get more generic bypasses? Do I need only some of those bypasses?
The only feature of your truck which requires any parts for bypass is the immobilizer. That audiovox piece you cite is indeed an aftermarket cruise and irrelevant to this install.
The Pass-4 and the IM05-PKT2 are both immobilizer bypasses; you only need one or the other. Additionally you don't have to limit yourself to one of those 2, there are many others that work.
There really isn't any need for you to specify which bypass is used; that's mostly the installer's problem (the one exception being a shop that charges less for an install done with a universal(key-in-the-box) bypass than a data override - for details on this stuff check out my post "key immobilizers and remote starting").
morthane wrote:
The basic models I'm looking at are the Viper 5900 and the 5701. Is one better than the other, or personal preference? What's your preference?
One guy said I want a glass break sensor, another guy said it's pointless because the shock sensor takes care of it. What's the truth?
Any sensors I need to think about beyond the basic system?
I don't do many Viper installs, but from what I read the 5701 is kind of slick(in my mind worth maybe $50 more than the 5900).
A glass break sensor is designed to complement a shock sensor, because glass can be broken with a very light pressure using the right tools. It depends on how much you want to spend, but I think it's worthwhile.
As far as other sensors - you may want a proximity sensor(triggers alarm if someone reaches inside your vehicle - handy if you want to just leave your windows down all the time), tilt sensor(senses the vehicle being tilted to go on a tow truck/car dolly), or a pin switch to detect the tailgate being opened. This will again depend on how much you want to spend.
morthane wrote:
One of the salesman tried telling me I needed some sort of backup deal, so the security would work in case someone cut the leads to the battery. Is this just being overprotective? Since I have it, Is it smart for them to run secondary power from the Kinetik power cell to the security?
A backup battery is indeed helpful when the system is properly installed and the battery well concealed. I would recommend that over the power cell since the cell is presumably going to be in plain sight.
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