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t tops integrating with security system

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=105496
Printed Date: May 06, 2024 at 3:17 AM


Topic: t tops integrating with security system

Posted By: Hellraiser319
Subject: t tops integrating with security system
Date Posted: June 15, 2008 at 4:28 PM

Hey guys.

Opinion: what would be the best way to integrate t-tops into the security system, so the alarm goes off when they are unlocked and removed, but doesn't give a false/open zone upon arming?

have an 88 iroc I will be putting a system into.....

thanks




Replies:

Posted By: fuzion1029
Date Posted: June 15, 2008 at 7:42 PM
Good question. I'm guessing there's no factory sensors connected to the t-tops. If you're that worried about it, I would just get a proximity sensor. That way, if someone or something enters the car, it will set off the alarm. Otherwise, I can't really think of a good way of doing it.




Posted By: Hellraiser319
Date Posted: June 15, 2008 at 9:41 PM
see i was thinking a prox sensor, but i figure, what will stop a crook from swiping the glass.... i thought pin switches where the lock pins go into the frame, or contact switch ie metal strip on glass and metal strip under glass but you'd have to disconnect that strip on the glass to remove..... and you still have the issue of the "hey dummy the door is open" warning when you arm it if they are removed.....im sure relays would fix that though....

ahh brainstorming...




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 16, 2008 at 12:45 PM
Relays won't because either on alarm on or off, at one point the coil wil be latched draining your battery, use a latched relay such that opening the roof causes your installed switch(es) to go to ground opening the relay contacts. You could then branch off an unlock wire to change the relay state back. Or, as already mentioned, use a dual zone prox and carefully set it up.....yep but in the real world you will be tweaking it every week or so.




Posted By: dswift
Date Posted: June 16, 2008 at 5:54 PM

Mag switches or a Ultra Sonic sensor.

Word



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"dont ground out!"




Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: June 16, 2008 at 6:56 PM
I was thinking some magnetic reed switches too. The switch part (that has the wires), you'd attach to the car obviously........the other part (the magnet) usually has screw holes, but I don't see why you couldn't epoxy it to the glass.

And as far as not having the alarm give you the open-door warning when arming, I'm trying to think about that.

You could always just have a little toggle switch inline, and flip it to off when the T-tops are removed, although that's not very elegant.

How about this, do you use the car's parking brake?

The car's parking brake wire (I think it's tan, maybe) makes a ground, but only when the parking brake is on.

You could use the car's parking brake wire as the input to the magnetic reed switch, and then connect the switch's output to the alarm.

As long as you set the brake (even if you just pull the handle up one click), the T-tops will be protected.

When you park the car with the T-tops removed, don't set the parking brake, and you won't get the warning chirp.




Posted By: Hellraiser319
Date Posted: June 16, 2008 at 11:27 PM
you know chris, you just gave me an idea....2 switches / panel, one close way in there that detects the t-top, one that detects removal of the t-top. the first that detects the panel is wired in series with the triggering switch.

[alarm]-----------switch 1 ----------switch 2 ---ground

switch 1 would have to be n/o (reed switch would work) and switch 2 could be a pin switch. when the panel is in, it closes the reed switch giving it path to switch 2 and in turn path to ground if switch 2 is released via panel being removed.....    

the only issue i see is the mag switch must be way inside by the middle and strong enough to still affect the switch otherwise if you tilt it you will get the first switch to break the signal. unless you put the pin switch inside the spot where the pin locks in the frame....


now we're cookin.... whatcha think?




Posted By: Hellraiser319
Date Posted: June 16, 2008 at 11:29 PM
toggle and p-brake arent bad ideas, p brake good for stick shift... if this were to be implemented in the real world, customers would want something a little more passive. though i wouldnt mind..

yeah post up and let me think of what i ccame up with, or if i need to explain better...




Posted By: joch1314
Date Posted: June 17, 2008 at 2:35 PM
i really like the P-brake idea.....good one chris!!!!

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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..





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