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05 f350 door lock problem

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=108003
Printed Date: May 13, 2024 at 8:58 PM


Topic: 05 f350 door lock problem

Posted By: joch1314
Subject: 05 f350 door lock problem
Date Posted: October 08, 2008 at 11:50 AM

Alright here's the deal.... I installed a audiovox 997 alarm/remote start in a customer's 2005 ford F350 superduty.  Everything is working great, alarm, remote start is set up to a 10 second delay to allow the plugs to warm up, and starts everytime.  Parking lights good, door trigger good.....

The only thing i'm having trouble with is the door locks.  Now i know that it is a reverse polarity system and that the locks rest at ground.  I did use two relays to get them to work, wired like this:

87 on both relays wired to 12V

87a on both relays wired to ground

85 on lock relay and 86 on unlock relay wired to 12V

86 on lock relay and 85 on unlock relay connected to alarm output wires

30 on both relays hooked to lock/unlock wires in vehicle.

I wired it like the relay wiring guide said to....(actuators / reverse polarity)

Now the locks work with the alarm 100% of the time....the problem that i am having is that when i hook them up to the wires in the vehicle, the factory switch no longer works.  I disconnect the alarm wires and the switch begins to work.  WEIRD.......The wires that I tapped into are in the door panel, and they are BLACK/ white and WHITE/ red.  It says to get them in the door boot but I hate working in that little of space, so i just ran my wires all the way in the door panel, right next to the switch, probably 6 inches from the switch.  Is that a problem, Do i need to introduce diodes, and what can i do to get the switch to work when i have the alarm wires hooked up? 

thanks for the replies...



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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..



Replies:

Posted By: installmarc
Date Posted: October 08, 2008 at 11:57 AM
i use 86 and 87 as 12v inputs, 85 as unit(alarm) inputs   87a switch side of oem wiring and 30 as motor side of oem wiring.   this will probably solve all your problems




Posted By: joch1314
Date Posted: October 08, 2008 at 12:05 PM

thanks for the response.......i'll give it a shot.

Question though....you don't hook any of the relay terminals to ground? 



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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..




Posted By: joch1314
Date Posted: October 08, 2008 at 12:07 PM
Nvm.....i see that you're actually cutting the OEM wires.  The way i did it originally was just tap into them!!

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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..




Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: October 08, 2008 at 12:10 PM
take 87a on both relays off of ground and connect them to the switch side of the cut wires in the truck as installmarc has suggested and you'll be in bussiness. the other connection you have made on the relays will work as the are.




Posted By: joch1314
Date Posted: October 08, 2008 at 12:33 PM
ok.....did what you guys said and the switch works like normal, but now i'm not getting anything from the alarm.  no lock/unlock....but i do feel the relays clicking when I hit the buttons on the alarm remote.  any suggestions???

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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..




Posted By: joch1314
Date Posted: October 08, 2008 at 1:29 PM

anybody?......I understand now that this is a standard five wire as it does have the switch, and not an actuator / reverse polarity wiring! 

One thing that might be causing a problem....This vehicle did have ignition controlled locks and the customer had that removed....or reprogrammed....or something!  They no longer work.  I have rechecked my connections and rechecked them again and again, so I know that that's not the problem.  Could the fact that the ignition controlled locks were removed be possibly causing the problem?  I'm all out of ideas and am hoping somebody can help me out. 

Thanks ckeller and installmarc for your help....I get it now why you had me wire it like that, it's just not working.....and i think it's the vehicle, because I do hear and feel the relays clicking, just not getting any movement on the locks!! 



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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..




Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: October 08, 2008 at 2:15 PM
so the switch still works them right? try this and let me know what happens. on the relay that unlocks connect a wire from ground to term 87a in addition to the wire that is already there, then push lock on the remote. do they lock?




Posted By: moonliter
Date Posted: October 08, 2008 at 3:11 PM

joch1314 wrote:

WEIRD.......The wires that I tapped into are in the door panel, and they are BLACK/ white and WHITE/ red. 

NOTE *1 Vehicles without FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY are a TYPE "C" Door Locking system, the PINK / YELLOW is for LOCK and the PINK/LIGHT GREEN is for UNLOCK both wires are found in EITHER KICK PANEL, you MUST use the DRIVERS DOOR SWITCH for TESTING. if vehicle is equipped with FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY the Door Locks are a TYPE "B" System, the LOCK is a WHITE/ RED (-) and the UNLOCK is a BLACK/ WHITE (-)

You might want to double check the doorlocks wires again. On your first post, how did you get it to work with the relays setup without blowing any fuse , I don't have any idea.





Posted By: joch1314
Date Posted: October 08, 2008 at 4:34 PM

alright...tried what you said and this is what i get!  Ready for this......

Unlock relay 87a hooked to ground and regular 5 wire.  It unlocks them with the alarm remote and they reverse on the switch.  (unlock on the switch locks them).....lock fails on the switch

Lock relay 87a hooked to ground and regular 5 wire.  It locks them with the alarm remote and they reverse on the switch.  (lock on the switch unlocks them)......unlock on the switch fails

Hook both 87a's to ground as well as the 5 wire and the alarm lock/unlock reverses.  Unlock on the remote locks them, and lock on the remote unlocks them, and the entire switch fails! 

This is really starting to irk me.....it shouldn't be this hard!!!

moonliter, thanks for the info and i tried looking for the pink / YELLOW and pink/lt. green wires in both kicks and there is nothing in either kick. 

And by the way, this vehicle did not come with a factory keyless system. 



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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..




Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: October 08, 2008 at 4:39 PM

ok my friend, ive run into this before. i just had you do what i said to see if it was gonna be the same thing i had to do before. send me a private message and ill give you the solution.





Posted By: moonliter
Date Posted: October 08, 2008 at 6:32 PM
joch1314 wrote:

alright...tried what you said and this is what i get!  Ready for this......

Unlock relay 87a hooked to ground and regular 5 wire.  It unlocks them with the alarm remote and they reverse on the switch.  (unlock on the switch locks them).....lock fails on the switch

Lock relay 87a hooked to ground and regular 5 wire.  It locks them with the alarm remote and they reverse on the switch.  (lock on the switch unlocks them)......unlock on the switch fails

Hook both 87a's to ground as well as the 5 wire and the alarm lock/unlock reverses.  Unlock on the remote locks them, and lock on the remote unlocks them, and the entire switch fails! 

This is really starting to irk me.....it shouldn't be this hard!!!

moonliter, thanks for the info and i tried looking for the pink / YELLOW and pink/lt. green wires in both kicks and there is nothing in either kick. 

And by the way, this vehicle did not come with a factory keyless system. 


Ok, your truck has a neg triggered door locks. Just use the (-) lock & (-) unlock from the alarm and connect each to its respective lock (WHITE/ red) & unlock (BLACK/ white) wires. To be safe, use a fused jumper, touch one end to ground & touch the other end to the suspected lock wire and see if it locks, likewise test the unlock wire the same way.

good luck, I won't be back till tomorrow.





Posted By: joch1314
Date Posted: October 08, 2008 at 7:10 PM

Got it working....FINALLY!!!....and they weren't just a negative trigger!  Would've been awesome if they were!  Ckeeler.....you are the man and a godsent!  I did what you diagramed for me and they worked like a charm!  Both lock/unlock work with the switch and they both work with the remote as well!!  I've never had this problem before, and I actually consider myself to be well versed in this industry, and able to figure out most problems.  Of course as with almost every job out there, sometimes you'll run in to things that you've not encountered before and thank you to all that helped me get out of this jam!  Especially you Ckeeler! 



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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..




Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: October 09, 2008 at 11:33 AM

no problem. i havnt been a member here very long but i have been installing for a long time, since 95. thats not too long, but i say long time because most guys like yourself and i, tend to not keep doing this as a career as we get older. anyway, i ran into this same problem this summer. i wasnt a member here yet, but i doubt that it would have mattered as even now, months later, nobody knew the answer anyway. it took me several hours of trying to figure out what was happening in the switch and duplicate it, you can definetly imagine my frustration im sure. heres the funny part joch1314, ive done several of these trucks, same year, make, model, and option package, and not all of these are this way. wth!? i know huh?? weird.....anyway, just glad i could help you out.






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