’09 mitsu lancer rs with proximity key

Did this one today, an '09 Mitsubishi Lancer with the "F.A.S.T. key"(Mitsu's name for their proximity key system) - actually wasn't all that bad. Took a couple photos for everyone else's pleasure.

Another thing to keep in mind: this info will most likely apply to other Mitsubishis with proximity key setups.



The above image(somewhat poor quality since it was taken with my camera phone) is the key cylinder with the rotary knob removed, and the antenna ring from the bypass(Bypasskit PKU-MIT3) installed.



The second image shows the left side of the steering column.

The connector in the foreground with "8A09" contains the RED / white keysense wire which goes to an open circuit when the mechanical backup key (normally stored on the proximity key fob) is inserted.

To the left and behind that connector is the ignition switch connector which has 4 small gauge wires.

Yellow - 12V constant (I didn't use this and don't know at what amperage it's fused; I went to one of the 8 gauge main power supplies to the fusebox under the dash to get my constant 12V)
White - Ignition
Lt. Green - Accessory
Orange - Starter

Other wiring info that I verified, since no one's posted it yet(those of you with wiring info programs will probably find it's the same as an '08):

Parking lights (+) : Yellow and Brown. Separate L and R so diode isolate them. Found in the harness to rear on the driver's side. Forget about any light switching at the column since it uses CAN to the BCM.

Brakeswitch: same location as parklights, Red (+).

Lock/unlock: Yellow/Red and Gray, pins 2 and 3 respectively, in a brown connector in the driver's kick panel.

Tach: Take off the engine cover piece over the intake manifold and the fuel injectors are wonderfully accessible.

Hoodpin: Right in front of the bump stop on the driver's side.

That's all for the wiring - now for the bypass info.


The owner's manual for this car gives great instructions on how to program a new key to the vehicle, including a new FAST key. Just about exactly the same as programming another Chrysler key for those who have done that.

Though the manual doesn't explicitly say that the batteries should be removed from the proximity keyfob during this procedure, I did it anyway to be sure. Basically the new keyfob programming procedure goes as follows:

1. Take one of the metal backup keys out of the fob and put it in the key cylinder. Put the first proximity keyfob on the end of it and turn the ignition on for about 7 seconds.

2. Turn ignition off. Without removing the metal key, put the second keyfob on the end of it and turn the ignition on for about 10 seconds. At this point a huge immobilizer indicator comes up on the dash display. Turn it off again without removing the key.

3. At this point, if you were programming a new FAST keyfob you would put it up there and turn the key on. After about 10 seconds here the immobilizer indicator would come on again for 3 seconds, and then go out to let you know that the new key is programmed. I held the PKU-MIT3 where the FAST keyfob would normally go during this step, and it successfully programmed on the second run through this procedure (I think the first time the bypass was actually touching the key which weakened its RF signal).


Other important stuff:

Proximity key remotes will not unlock the car from outside when it's running.

It's necessary to open the RED / white keysense wire with a relay when using a passive transponder bypass like the PKU-MIT3(it wouldn't crank, even after programming the bypass, until I did that).

It may not be needed if using an 1101T or equivalent universal prox. key bypass.

Installed with the bypass I used, the lock on the ignition switch did not release until the remote start was shut off. Though this makes it necessary to shut down and restart with the knob, it does not compromise the security like an activated proximity key inside the vehicle would - in which case anyone who could get in the car would be able to turn the ignition knob and drive away.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

The steering column lock has a solenoid which releases it(activated when the knob is pressed slightly inwards and the car senses a valid proximity key), as well as a slot for the metal key to be inserted.

When the car was remotely started with the keysense connected and the PKU-MIT3 active, the knob would not turn. The car apparently viewed this as a dead-battery key start and the column lock release solenoid did not activate.

The 1101T is bypassed the entire time the GWR is active, so a thief would potentially be able to get in the car, turn the knob to "run" and only then hit the brake to shut the remote starter down, which would allow the car to be driven until it was shut down.

Though now that I think about it, this problem could be somewhat averted by using a 528T or other timer so that the 1101T is only active for the first 30 seconds or so of the remote start operation.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I am planning on installing another remote starter in my wife's new used 2007 mitsubishi outlander. My supplier has contacted DEI and they state I can use one of the databus interfaces, so we'll see.

I just realised that the FAST key system is not what my outlander has. It has the regular key ignition.

hey..whats up....have a ques on that lancer with fast key maybe u can help....installing remote start all went well .. but the car wont start even did relay for keysense...but only starts if i push the key knob..any help would be cool...

ultimateaudio68,

What remote starter, bypass, and year/make/model of vehicle are you dealing with in your install?

Note that the RED / white key sense wire I mentioned is a normally closed type circuit, not a ground or 12V. The relay should be connected so as to interrupt the wire when the remote start's active.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

ultimateaudio68,

Do you mean that it will start when you just push inward on the knob? Or when you turn it to run?

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

on the 1101T there is a PURPLE / black and a purple on it to shut down the proximity battery supply 10 seconds after start

purple connect to positive pulse from remote start will remove power to key 10 seconds after start

PURPLE / black connect to negitive pulse from remote start will remove power to key 10 seconds after start

use either one pos or neg it works just for that 10 seconds someone could get in

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

no help from me on this one but i'm glad it got bumped. had a guy ask me about this car today. told him we can do it no problem but one thing we prefer to do with proxy keys is connect the brake shut down to the door trigger(s) instead

I'm doing a 08 Lancer Evo Canadian Version. I heard that Canadian model you can't program the bypass that way and needs to be brought to dealer. The dealer then will use a scan tool. Is this true? I tried your method it didn't work.

Also how do I hook up relay for the keysense?

Sorry I've taken so long to get back on this one...

daflipcyde,

It's possible that's the case with the Canadian model - Bypasskit has a tech note that says a scan tool may be required, though that wasn't the case with my install here. I'd suggest trying it again before you go to the dealer, making sure that the FAST keys aren't active(remove the batteries) or within 6 inches of the key cylinder when they're not supposed to be. Also make sure that your RF bypass is not touching the metal key when you're trying to program it.

ultimateaudio68,

Presumably there's a wire switched when the knob is pushed in - I'm not sure but this may end up being the RED / white keysense wire, or it may be a different wire. Meter those wires near the key cylinder to identify the one that changes with the knob in.

To anyone who's asked about the keysense wire relay, connect it as follows:

85: (-) ground-when-running or ignition output from remote start
86: 12v+ constant fused
87: not used
87a: one side of cut RED / white keysense wire
30: other side of cut keysense wire(it doesn't matter which side goes where.)

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

I have an 09 lancer gts with fast key, and a brand new viper 5701. I was going have it installed, but after talking to someone at bestbuy, who quoted me $300 to put it in using the old school key in box way, I decided to suck it up and put it in myself. My only question is; how did you happen upon using the PKU-MIT3? I've been trying to find an interface module since I got the car, and here is the only place that mention using that one in an 09 lancer.
Thanks in advance

rosem06901,

Basically - I guessed correctly that it would work. I don't think at the time I did this install that Bypasskit had listed any info on the '09 Lancer(and it looks like they still haven't), so I just pulled info on the '08 since it looked like the same car, and got the bypass idea from there.

As far as choosing a PKU-MIT3 on a car with FAST keys, the owner's manual actually listed programming procedures for FAST keys, remote head conventional keys, and plain transponder keys - all of which required 2 working keys and operation of the mechanical key cylinder to program. From this fact I figured that the PKU-MIT3 could probably be programmed to the car, which would see it as either a FAST key without a battery or a regular transponder key.

As mentioned above, this solution's not perfect. It does require a manual restart(which this customer was satisfied with) or hacking into the knob release(which I didn't attempt). However you obviously don't have to sacrifice a factory key.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

any one done a 09 mits outlander with smart key?.....cant get any crank to starter with out turning ign barrel