Printer Friendly Forum Posts - valet 562t cranks no start

This is the 1st valet system I have tried to install. After wiring the 2003 nissan xterra up, the remote would only respond to the lock and unlock buttons. After searching this site I found out it was the hood pin wire that was keeping it from tring to start. Now it cranks over 3 individual times but won't start. I have checked all connections and reviewed the troubleshooting guide in the manual but it didin't help. I did not use any type of bypass module. The store it was bought from said it didn't need on.

The pink wire from the relay satellite has voltage while it is cranking.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

I have also tried to put the key in the on postion while the remote starter is cranking and it still doesn't run.

have you connected a tach signal?

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Yes, hooked up the tack wire and learned it already.

where'd you take ur tach signal from?

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

also have you connected both starter wires?

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Took the tach signal from the ecm, black wire and check to make sure it was correct voltage. Had about 5 volts ac at idle.

Only hooked up one starter wire. Hooked up the BLACK / YELLOW, but did not hook up the green yellow wire. Does it need to be connected to the purple wire from the relay satellite also or does it need another wire connection by it's self?

check to see if the wire voltage increases with an increase of the engine rpm's to verify ur tach wire, and yes you must connect ur second starter wire, connect it via a relay feeding of the violet wire of your xcrs, although i don't think it's what's causing ur current problems, since i deal with nissan alot, i think it's more related to ur tach wire. ur wire should read about 0.5 volts at idle and increase with the rev of the engine.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

I did go out and mess with it and double check a few things. It will start with the key in the on (run) position and will stay running after I take the key out, but won't start without the key in the on position.

I'll go out and verify the tach wire. I know it was in a/c voltage but might be wrong about the voltage itself.

How would the wires be hooked on the relay. I would have to be a 30 amp relay wouldn't? I'm not sure if our local auto stores carry them or not.

sounds like you are not powering a required IGN wire......

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

I know the R/S is supplying power thru the pink wire. It is hooked to the BLACK/ white wire for the ignition

I double checked the ignition wire and it has power while it is cranking with the remote starter.

Does anyone know which wire on the ecu is for the tach. It is easier to get to there then at the instrument panel.

I found another wire that only had like .7 volts a/c it idle and went up as rpms went up. Still didn't make a difference. Still won't start without the key in the on position.

I think it does have to do with the tach wire. I went to the auto parts store and looked up the tach wire and it showed a RED / blue wire for the tach. I got home and checked there wasn't a red blue wire on the ecm.

I tried to disconnect the tach wire and see what happens. It still tries to start but only cranks for about 2 seconds instead of 6 seconds.

Would it be better to try and program it for voltage instead of tach. I may try that Sat. just to see if it will start and run.

Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

If a Valet remote start sees no tach signal it shuts the starter down after about 2 seconds. We all know that! (joke from another thread) :)

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Kevin Pierson

It most likely isn't an ignition circuit not being powered because if it were then the remote start would work with the key in the On position.

It can't be an OEM security issue because it won't start with the key in the On position.

Whats the temperature where you are at? If it is extremely cold it may have something to do with the 2nd start wire. I like to use two seperate relays to keep the two starter wires isolated. You should be able to tap in to the small purple wire going to the relay pack and use that to power the coil of a 30A SPDT Bosch relay. You would wire pin 30 to 12vdc (high current) and pin 87 to the 2nd starter.

Other then the 2nd starter that pretty much leaves tach. I would switch it to voltage sense mode and see if that allows it to start. If it does then you have pinpointed your issue. I'm not sure how the Xterra is set up but I would recomend using a fuel injector wire - you can get the color at the injectors (the constant 12vdc side will be a common color among all injectors, you will just need to use the other wire from any of the injectors) and then trace it back to the ECU to make your connection there.

It really helps troubleshooting tach wires if you have the right tools - a meter that reads frequency would provide much better information then trying to read the signal with an AC meter.

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Kevin Pierson

But it does work with the key in the ON position. I can then turn the key off and take it out and it will still run.

It's like 40 degees here. I even tried warming the vehicle up 1st to see if that would have any effect on it. Didn't change anything.

My meter has frequency on it I'll try that and see.

I already know what wire on the ecm are for the injectors. There is also a second acc wire that I didn't hook up either. Could that be cause a problem with something not getting voltage?

On H2 there is a factory alarm disarm and rearm that I havent hooked up yet either. Could this have a effect on it not starting. I assumed it was to do with the door locks

Sorry, I didn't see your update post that said it will start with the key in the "On" position, I just saw the first post that said it wouldn't.

If that is the case then it does sound like either an ignition wire or factory security issue.

To test to figure out which one it is try remote starting the vehicle with the key in the ignition cylinder but not turned. If it starts then the problem is a factory security issue.

If it will only remote start with the key in the "On" position (and not just in the cylinder) then you need tor recheck your ignition wires. I doubt it would be an accessory wire, but that would be something worth checking as well. Also, make sure you didn't hook ignition and accessory up backwards - the igntion wire needs to be energized while the starter is cranking.

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Kevin Pierson

Doesn't the valet 562t have 3 wires that must have 12v+... one of which the manual states is optional if you do not need the 2nd start/ignition for your vehicle. However this is an error in the manual, you do need all 3 wires connected to 12v+ regardless of whether you are using it. I think it is the RED / white fused wire... Correct me if I'm wrong. I remember having a similar issue with a Valet remote starter.
Maybe if would help if you listed exactly which wires you have connected from remote starter to vehicle.

I think it has to do with the tach wire. I went out to check the things that were suggested and it started without the key in it (for the 1st time). Sarted up a few times with the remote and all was good. Programed it to not flash the parking lights. Would not start up after that even with the key in the on position. I went thru the tach learn set up and it started a few times and then wouldn't.

Whats the best way to keep this from happening. I tried progamming it for voltage sense instead of tach but didn't have any luck and the manual is kind of confusing on directions. I used the tach wire and hooked it up to one of the injector wires at the ECM. Programmed it for voltage instead of tach but it didn't start either. Then I read in the manual that if you program for voltage sense you don't use the tach wire. I'm confused.

I have had no luck in finding the tach wire at the ECM. I can't get the dash apart to try and find it at the cluster. Some here say that the tach wire is sometimes unreliable. If voltage is better, please help me understand how to set this up to make it work right. I know i'm getting close but am just missing something simple.

Also I did hook up the second acc. wire and program it but it didn't help.

pappasteve wrote:

I think it has to do with the tach wire. I went out to check the things that were suggested and it started without the key in it (for the 1st time). Sarted up a few times with the remote and all was good. Programed it to not flash the parking lights. Would not start up after that even with the key in the on position. I went thru the tach learn set up and it started a few times and then wouldn't.
Whats the best way to keep this from happening. I tried progamming it for voltage sense instead of tach but didn't have any luck and the manual is kind of confusing on directions. I used the tach wire and hooked it up to one of the injector wires at the ECM. Programmed it for voltage instead of tach but it didn't start either. Then I read in the manual that if you program for voltage sense you don't use the tach wire. I'm confused.
I have had no luck in finding the tach wire at the ECM. I can't get the dash apart to try and find it at the cluster. Some here say that the tach wire is sometimes unreliable. If voltage is better, please help me understand how to set this up to make it work right. I know i'm getting close but am just missing something simple.
Also I did hook up the second acc. wire and program it but it didn't help.

I believe "Voltage Sense" refers to the remote starter being able to sense the vehicle is running because the voltage in the system is above 12v+ due to the alternator working after the vehicle's engine is running. For this reason... you dont need to have a tach wire connected. Do you understand now?

It really would help if you listed all the wires you have connected. Do you have a good ground?? do you have the neutral safety wire grounded?? the hood pin isnt grounding out is it? I would just disconnected the wire from the hood pin to role it out until you get everything working.

wires that are connected.

H1 on control module

red wire 12 volt constant. hooked to green @ign.harness

(Horn)brown wire hooked to lt GREEN/ red @ steering colunm

black to a good ground on drivers side kick panel.

(parking lights)white wire hooked to blue/red wire @steering column

H2 - not hooked up

(neutral safety)black white - grounded

(Brake shutdown) brown hooked to BROWN / red wire at brake switch

(hood pin) gray disconneted

(tach input) violet/white hooked to WHITE/ blue injection wire at ecm

jumpers in factory settings

relay satellite heavy gauge wires

purple wire starter side of starter wire black yellow wire @ ign. hraness -still need to hook up second starter wire yet

green wire key side of starter wire - BLACK / YELLOW wire @ ign. harness

red wire constant 12v hooked up to green wire @ ign. harness

orange wire hooked up to RED / yellow wire @ ign. harness

pink/white wire hooked up to 2nd accessory WHITE/ blue wire at ign. harness (programed for accessory)

RED / white constant 12v hooked up from battery

The Tach wire is the one that I can't seem to find. The car does have a tach in the cluster. I looked at a repair manual and it showed a 3.3 engine should have a RED / blue wire at the ecm but I couldn't find a wire that color. I can't get the dash apart to check the back of the cluster.

It's been along time since I have had electricity class. I tried to hook up the relay to make the second start wire work. Could not get it too work. It is a 4 prong relay. Thats the last thing I have to try before I give up and disconnect everything and take the car back.

I was trying to help out a lady at work by get it hooked up. I have put in a number of bulldog remotes and never had any kind of problems like this. Definently won't ever try to put this brand in again.

to wire the second starter relay take a standard prong relay pin 85 will be the thin purple wire from the remote start relay pack, pin 86 and 87 will be 12volt constant and pin 30 will go to the second starter wire. if you think it is tach related (which i dont) you can use an uncommon injector wire for tach. the way you do that is look at a couple of injectors under the hood they will have 2 wires coming off them. one of the wires will be the same color on each injector use any of the wires that arent that color. sometimes on nissans the car will start with out the second starter wire sometimes they wont most of the time they wont. i think thats your problem

The relay for the second starter wire(cold start injector) should be wired as follows;

You wire pin 30 to 12vdc (high current) and pin 87 to the 2nd starter wire. Pin 85 of the relay should be wired to the purple heavy guage starter wire and finally pin 86 should be Ground.

Pin 85 and 86 connect the electromagnet within the relay and when the remote start sends the + start current through the purple wire, it will energize the magnetic circuit(85+ and 86-) causing pin 30 and 87 to contact each other, sending + current to the second starter wire from pin 30 to pin 87.

I hope that explains the relay inner workings. Try it again. Don't give up yet.

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Also, adding to what hydrodancer91 stated, you can just connect the tach wire directly to any uncommon injector wire, right there close to the injector. You don't have to trace it all the way back to the ecm to try and hook it up there. I've always hooked it up very close to an injector and it's worked every time. These 562t rs are usually a breeze to hook up. I also would say it has to be that second starter wire, once the injector wire is hooked up and tach learn procedure is performed again, just to be sure.

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Have we removed the steering column cowl to see if it needs a by-pass? If you have a plastic ring around the ignition switch with two thin wires coming out, you have a factory transponder immobiliser and this must be by-passed, secondly you must connect the second starter. Thirdly, if you have doubts about tach use the DEI inductive pick-up, I believe they still market it, that way you are not going to affect the vehicle and it's great for diesels.

Tach wires, when hooked up properly, are the most accurate way for a remote start to work. When monitoring the tach signal the starter output is flexible - it will stay on until the car is started (up to a preset amount of time then it will time out).

When set to voltage sense the starter output is time based. It cranks for x amount of seconds and then shuts off. The unit then checks the 12vdc input to see if the voltage is above a certain level.

Tach is a closed loop system (provides actual feedback) while voltage is an open loop system (no actual feedback). I have NEVER had a car come back because the tach wire was hooked up - I have seen numerous cars come back because the installer was too lazy to hook the tach wire up.

What I would do, if I were you, is first hook up the 2nd starter wire like people have mentioned. I would then download a Nissan factory service manual and find the injector wire at the ECU (since you said the ECU was easy to get to). I would then hook the tach up to a fuel injector at the ECU.

These days, I will ONLY install Valet remote starts - I really, really like them.

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Kevin Pierson

Well good news. The relay to the 2nd start wire fixed the start problem. Thank god and thanks to all you for your help.

Now the only thing left is the the door locks don't work quite right. They will lock but not unlock. The system is programed currently for a single pulse. I only hooked up the blue and green wires for the door locks. The paper I have also states a lock motor blue wire at the secu and a driver unlock motor GREEN / WHITE wire at the secu. Does something have to be connected to these also? It states the polarity is 5wi, I'm not familiar with that? Any thoughts about how to make the locks work right?

Most Nissans are double pulse unlock - I would try that first.

The 5wi designation is for the acutal actuator wires. Actuators have two wires that both rest at ground - to interface with them you must install one relay per wire. You will use all five wires on each relay to make it work right.

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Kevin Pierson

i never knew most nissans worked with a double pulse unlock, must be that way in the u.s, cuz here in the carribean you'll find it on one or two, and that's now and again. happy new year kevin.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

When you only work on G35s, 350zs and other higher end Nissans it is most. I guess that may be an inaccurate assessment in regards to the entry level vehicles and trucks.

What does the install sheet say for door unlock? Are you sure you got the correct wire? Did you test the unlock wire?

Happy New Year!

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Kevin Pierson

No i didn't test the lock or unlock wires. I went by the sheet the guy at the store gave me. The sheet states that the power lock is a yellow wire at the secu. The power unlock wire is yellow/red at the secu. I only used these two wires to hook up the wires from the control unit. I've been tapeing and putting some of the car back toghether the last 2 hours.

I have to get a inline fuse for the 12v constant I ran for the relay and it will be installed and hung properly.

I'll try the double pulse sunday morning and see what it does. I remember reading about programing it to do it .

I don't have a lot of time to use on trying to get the door locks to work right. I need to get the car back sunday if at all possible. I still have a few things to put on it to finish it up. Still have to wire the hood pin switch and toggle switch for safety.

checked the door lock wires today and they are correct. Tried too progam it for a double pulse on unlock, didn't help not only did the unlock not work the lock doesn't work that way either.

It looks like the door locks are out of my league. I've had good luck doing fords but not much else. Like I said it's be a long time since electricity calss.

Finishing up zip tying everything in place and double checking all connections and functions. Hopefully in a few hours I'll be taking it back.

Those wires are cirrect and if my experience with UK product is correct they are low current neg. Test by closing all passenger doiors, remove key from ignition, throw the latch on the driver's door, if there is a visible contact switch hold it in or remove so it doesn't make contact, then and this isn't recommended but you will get away with it, take a 12volt incandescant bulb test light, clip to a good ground then touch to the lock wire, if that works repeat with the unlocks, do it once, driver door will unlock, lock side again then do it twice as fast as possible, all doors should unlock. If this doesn't work take a DMM set to 20volt DC, one end to a good ground other end to the suspect wires. They should give you 0volts. Try one end to a12volt source and the other to each wire, they should then give about 12volts+. Lock the vehicle, and place black meter probe to ground, red the suspect lock wire. If you then get 12volts+ repeat with the suspected unlock. If it gives the same results you've found the motor rather than the trigger wires and you will need a 5 wire diagramme, though I suspect you won't and you haven't tested properly.

you have a rocker switch on ur door controlling your doorlocks if u do you'll get the negative trigger wires leading into the door panel, or you'll get them at the switch, the voltage varies a litle though, ur looking for two wires that may read anywhere from around 2 to 12 volts at rest and go to ground when your rocker switch is depressed, both suspect wires will have the same voltace at rest, and are normally thin gauge wires, if ur unsure u can remove the driver door controls ,test at the switch to verify and they're normally the same color inside the car, at least the nissans i'm accustomed to.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

I did check the two wires it stated on the paper I was given and they were at the secu. Hooked up a DMM to each wire and it has 5 volts at rest and goes to zero when the drivers door lock is turned with a key . These are the wires that I hooked the green and blue wires too. The door would lock but it would not unlock even though I could hear the control unit relays clicking.

If the two wires I've tested at the secu are the same at the door switch won't it still lock but not unlock. How do I figure out if it takes a double pulse or single pulse. Even if it only unlocked the drivers door I'd be happy.

How is the system programmed to do a double pulse only for the unlock. I looked in the manual and it changes both wire instead on just one. There was a different blue wire that can be used for the second pulse but it stated it was used to unlock for passengers door function.

you've got to check the manual for programming instructions, that's ok if it changes both wires, the second blue wire ur tlking about is only used if you wanted to have progressive locking, which is not the case with u so this wire remains unused. if it still doen't work when u program for double pulse post back, also check to make sure ur alarm is giving output on the unlock wire, and have u checked to see if ur rocker switch still works when u connect the lock and unlock wires?

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Last time I worked on an xterra, I also couldn't get the door locks to work properly when following the diagram to hook them up from the SECU. I went straight inside the drivers door and hooked them up and they worked the first time. You'll have to probe for the two wires inside the door, while turning the key in the door cylinder or toggling the lock/unlock switch to find them, and then run the blue and green door lock wires from the 562t up into the door and hook them up there. I've always had to do this with every nissan I've ever put an alarm into, and it also has been double pulse for all the nissans I've done.

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you should try that pappasteve, it just might work.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Are you actually testing what people suggest? We all use crib sheets but we treat them as a BASIS and check everything. t&t, do you get UK or US Nissans? Is this vehicle similar to the Almeira? That had a body control unit next to the steering column and one was able to pick up door contacts, indicators, locks 12v+ and ign off of just this unit.

At the secu wires there is 5 volts at rest and ground when turning the key in the drivers door lock. There is no change in voltage when I toggle the switch on the door panel. I tried the single and double pulse and it would not unlock either way.

The sheet I have been refering to was from the directwire website the guy gave me from were the valet system was purcahsed.

The secu is to the right of the steering column as you described and thats were the wires are that I was testing.

on some of the xterra's ive seen the lock wires as follows power unlock solid brown or yellow with a red stripe. and power lock light green with a red stripe or solid yellow. i would get them from either the ecu or theres a module to the right of the steering column thats white. or the drivers kick panel you can trace the harness thats running into the door and get it there. never NEVER just hook up wires with out testing to confirm them especially on any car with a computer. there could be several wires the same color as the tech sheet says or the tech sheet could be wrong. then when you send ground or 12v to the wire you could be buying a new bcm or ecm etc.. so always test. hope this helps you

if the voltage on the wires don't change with the depression of the rocker switch, you definitely have the wrong wires, this is a pretty long topic and i'm assuming ur getting frustrated at this point, it's simple, save urself some time and stress and carry both lock and unlock wires to the two wires that lead into the driver's door, as the poster before mentioned you'll find them in the driver kickwell, test to verify, if all fails u and ur not sure, just take the wires into the driver door, behind the controls ur sure to find a solution to ur problem.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

howie, i don't believe i've ever done a u.s or u.k nissan, but i would welcome the challenge anyday, almeras yes i've been doing them since day 1, i love these cars,to work on that is, i normally pick up all my wires behind the instrument cluster, everything, doors, locks, parking lights, hazard, ign 12 volts, and one of the things i love with these cars is that once you interrupt the ignition circuit the starter circuit is disabled to, makes life a whole lot easier.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

on the xterra the lock and unlock wires will not meter when using the power lock switch you have to test them while turning the key in either door lock cylinder.

that isn't possible unless of course ther are 2 pairs of wires that control the vehicle's lock, unlock function that all tie in at the control module, which in any case it would be easier to go to the driver controls, i've never done a u.s exterra, bear in mind.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

well there are quite a few newer cars in the use you have to meter while using the key cylinder and not the lock switch

I did end up taking the car back to the lady (I need to get my truck back, got to go to work today). I just unhooked the door lock wires.

One thing I did notice was that when I had the connection unplugged from the secu. The door toggle switch won't work but the door locks still did with the factory remote.

I did take a look at the door panel switch. Couldn't get the panel off due to one corner not want to move. Didn't want to break it and didn't have a lot of time to mess with it.

I'm going to talk with the lady today at work and see if she wants them hooked up or not. Maybe finish it in a week or so, well see. I don't think she is in a hurry, she's had it for a year and just now getting it hooked up.

Thank you all very much for all your help. This is a great website and I'll be sure to come back and use it again.