’06 honda pilot remote starter
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=110400
Printed Date: May 13, 2024 at 10:26 PM
Topic: ’06 honda pilot remote starter
Posted By: swamper8
Subject: ’06 honda pilot remote starter
Date Posted: January 06, 2009 at 11:41 AM
Good Afternoon, I am looking for suggestions on a remote starter. My G/F just bought a 06' Honda Pilot. I was hoping that some of the major vendors (like Viper) would have a website where I could put in make/model and it would spit out the best starters and accessories (I.E. alarm bypass etc) for my vehicle. Unfortunately they don't seem to do that. I am a electronic Engineering Technician, so there won't be any system to complicated for me to install. I just would like input on what are the best remote starters out there and what specifically I need to make one work with a Honda Pilot. Doing a search in yahoo produced some hits where people were complaining about the alarm going off after the vehicle was started, having to shut the vehicle off with the remote in order to get into the Pilot etc etc. I want to be prepared when I tackle this project. Thanks!
Replies:
Posted By: brcidd
Date Posted: January 06, 2009 at 12:34 PM
Hondas can be a pain until you get used to them- then they are straight forward- if not using a module for door locks- then you have to go inside the driver's door to pulse the lock and disarm wire at the same time - both for unlocking (while car is running) and for remote starting- to avoid that nasty OEM alarm. You can install and test all day long- think you have it done (with door open) and then let it sit for thirty seconds with doors closed (including hood and trunk) so that it arms itself- then just try to remote start it- that nasty OEM alarm goes off unless you double diode isolate the disarm signal from your R/S and the unlock wire at the same time- I spent over an hour trying to get the locks to work and the R/S to not set off the alarm on the first Honda Accord-2008 that I did. Finally got it to work- you just have to think it through- which should be really easy for an electronics Guru. My biggest problem was that I did not know the car- first time I saw it , it came for the install-- My bosse's son's yet. I did some research- just like you did- searched the forums here to learn that Hondas won't let you unlock the car remotely when it is running- that you need to go inside the driver's door to use the key in the door lock wiring (not the electric switch inside) to get it unlock while running and not set off the alarm. Same with the remote starter- you must send a neg disarm signal to the same two wires right before you remote start- otherwise the alarm sounds- car starts but who likes the alarm going off while it is running. Also, those orange and brown wires in the driver's door (at window switch) are more like tan and peach - right next to each other, pin 28, 29, and the white wire you need is pin 31- so that makes it much easier- ran three wires inside the door and did all my diode isolating at the brain box- the plug in the window switch need to be plugged in while you are testing. Other weird things- like I was soldering in the diodes and the sunroof opens- had my spare keys up there- they fell into the vehicle- Hopefully that was just a freak data signal from me soldering- never happened again. One thing nice about Hondas is that they do give you that spare grey Valet key that you can put in a box under the dash to feed to the ignition switch- instaed of using a module or buying a new key It's not the R/S system that's ever too complicated, it's the car- knowing how it is controlled is the biggest battle- you have the ability to control with most any brain boxes- knowing exactly which wires and what effects it has on the car is the challenge- Any complaints of alarms going off, or doors which will not open are purely ignorance or laziness on the installer's part.... It can be done. ------------- Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.
Posted By: swamper8
Date Posted: January 06, 2009 at 2:16 PM
Great thanks I appreciate the feedback on this. I look foward to the challenge, though this Pilot will hear its share of swears out of my mouth in the process. I will probably go and get the wiring diagrams for it and study study and study some more. A couple things: Do you have a recommendation on a remote starter for this? From what you wrote it must at least have a negative pulse to disarm the factory alarm PRIOR to the vehicle starting? And to disarm the factory alarm, the goal is to duplicate the signals with the remote starter that would normally occur in the door.......just as if I were disarming it by installing and turning the key in the door keyhole? Can you explain a little more about the spare key. Do you mean the valet key must simply be in the vehicle (maybe up close to the steering column?) I'm guessing there's some type of handshake between the key and the car that has to happen? That valet key doesn't appear to have any type of battery in it like the main key so I was wondering how that handshake would work. Will the vehicle refuse to lock if the valet key is left inside?
Posted By: advanced
Date Posted: January 06, 2009 at 3:15 PM
Hi there, I only use Audiovox remote starts & that's what I reccomend. The APS-57a is a great low cost unit. It'll do everything you want it to do in any car. And it will do that car, because I've done them. As far as the valet key, you need to use a DEI 556u or equivilant, to mate that key with the ignition switch during remote start function. You are right-there is no battery in the key. A coil placed around the key excites the information in the transponder key & sends it to the ignition cylinder via another coil of wire. The car doesn't know that key is in the car except while the remote start is being used to start the car. It will not intefere with locking the car. ------------- Good Enough Isn't!
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 1:17 AM
swamper8,
Some thoughts for you. First, the immobilizer in the keys is passive transponder-based. There is a ring/decoder module around the key cylinder, which you'll see when you take the steering column shroud off. This module sends out an RF signal to the key, which responds with a unique electronic signature. The module then decodes that and if valid, sends a signal to the engine controller enabling the fuel injectors.
The battery in your master keys is strictly for the remote keyless entry. (Some late model cars with keyless starting use the battery for that as well, but that's a different story.)
Second, the wiring info listed on this site (go to the Vehicle Wiring link in the 2nd bar from the top) includes a few model years of Pilot near yours. Feel free to post more/PM me if you have any questions about that.
Third, Honda alarms are annoying. You're fortunate enough to have wires inside the car which you can connect to to unlock/disarm and lock/arm immediately before and after starting. If you don't want the doors unlocked for that few seconds, there are data interfaces (such as the Bypasskit HODL) available for your vehicle which can control the locks/alarm. You might like them in any case because they'll save you from running wires to the passenger's side.
Fourth, you can also use a data module for immobilizer bypass, or you can use your valet key in a universal bypass like advanced has suggested.
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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: swamper8
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 7:09 AM
Thanks for the additional information. I was a little concerned about the vehicle being unlocked and running, if not for the rare possibility of it being stolen but for the possibility of someone getting in and waiting for my G/F to enter. I'm guessing that if I use the remote start to disarm the factory alarm by simulating a key unlock, I would then have to relock the vehicle after starting it with the remote start via the internal door lock switch? I wouldn't want to re-activate the factory alarm but would want the vehicle locked. And that being said, the only way to unlock for my G/F to get in would be via the remote start lock/unlock button, as the lock/unlock buttons on the factory remote wouldn't work at this point. If that's correct I guess I can live with that. Do remote start controllers have the option of sending out a pos/neg. pulse after startup to lock the doors? I don't mind them being unlocked for a few seconds during startup. I will research some of those modules you listed to study their function.
Posted By: fordguy06
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 7:54 AM
you can use a audiovox aps 901 one button starter. it will do unlock only during remote start. its a small remote and will work with a bypass for doorlocks and transponder.
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 9:44 AM
Actually another thing I meant to add is that you probably want to do a remote start with keyless entry on the same remote, since Honda's factory remotes don't work with ignition on.
Basically as far as the locks, you could just use the factory alarm disarm on the unlock, and then use the starter output to relock a few seconds later. Audiovox and almost all DEI product have a wire you could specifically use for that purpose.
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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: brcidd
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 11:05 AM
The Accord I did , did NOT unlock the doors during disarm prior to Remote Start. it takes a double unlock pulse to unlock the doors- the R/S disarm is only a single pules- therefore doors stay locked before during and after R/S- you are only disarming- with the white disarm wire and the brown unlock- not unlocking until it sees the double unlock pulse- works good and no fears of vehicle being running and unlocked....
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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.
Posted By: swamper8
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 11:13 AM
brcidd wrote:
The Accord I did , did NOT unlock the doors during disarm prior to Remote Start. it takes a double unlock pulse to unlock the doors- the R/S disarm is only a single pules- therefore doors stay locked before during and after R/S- you are only disarming- with the white disarm wire and the brown unlock- not unlocking until it sees the double unlock pulse- works good and no fears of vehicle being running and unlocked....
So I guess I need to find out whether the Pilot takes a single pulse to disarm and a double to unlock or if it all happens on a single pulse. Ideally it seems that if it only takes a single pulse to disarm that would be the best cause' the vehicle would stay locked.
Posted By: advanced
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 12:02 PM
Your 2006 Honda Pilot will both lock & unlock the doors with a single pulse. You do however need to hook up to a "factory alarm disarm" wire inside the drivers door @ the drivers door module. While you are in there you might as well grab the "factory arm" wire also. There is no need to worry about doors unlocking at any time, before you unlock them yourself. You can use the APS-901 as suggested, but you will not have "lock" on the Audiovox transmitter. You will have to use "lock" on the factory key fob. ------------- Good Enough Isn't!
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 1:51 PM
advanced, would a timer circuit driven by the lock signal fix this issue?
Posted By: advanced
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 2:14 PM
Hi Loneranger, I'm not sure what the issue is. What is it? ------------- Good Enough Isn't!
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 8:22 PM
advanced wrote:
Your 2006 Honda Pilot will both lock & unlock the doors with a single pulse. You do however need to hook up to a "factory alarm disarm" wire inside the drivers door @ the drivers door module. While you are in there you might as well grab the "factory arm" wire also.
There is no need to worry about doors unlocking at any time, before you unlock them yourself. You can use the APS-901 as suggested, but you will not have "lock" on the Audiovox transmitter. You will have to use "lock" on the factory key fob.
What I was trying to say in an earlier post was that the passenger door key cylinder wires, which are the ones listed in any case for lock/unlock, will also arm and disarm the alarm.
These wires can be used for disarm prior to remote starting, thus avoiding the hassle of running wires through a door jamb. All that you need to do is connect the "factory disarm" to the unlock wire, and connect a wire which sends a (-) pulse during cranking to the lock wire in order to relock the doors a few seconds later. Audiovox, Directed, Omega, and other remote starts generally have such a wire which could be connected directly. Remote starters which do not have any "(-) starter wire" could activate a relay with their GWR and (+) starter wire in order to perform this door locking function. ------------- C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 11:23 PM
advanced wrote:
Hi Loneranger, I'm not sure what the issue is. What is it?
Timed dual ouputs. However, chriswallace187 achieves the same exercise.
Posted By: advanced
Date Posted: January 09, 2009 at 8:53 AM
Sorry, ChrisWallace187. I guess I didn't know what you were trying to do. Now I understand. You are trying to help Swamper8 to not have to run wires inside the drivers door. So you use blue/green for lock & arm & use BLACK/ red for unlock & disarm, in passenger fusebox. Then you apply a (-) output during crank to the lock wire, to relock the doors. On Audiovox alarms, it would be the BLACK / YELLOW wire of the auxiliary harness. Other manufacturer's such as DEI have such wires also. ------------- Good Enough Isn't!
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