2000 jeep cherokee, remote start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=111777
Printed Date: October 31, 2024 at 6:28 PM
Topic: 2000 jeep cherokee, remote start
Posted By: carguy411
Subject: 2000 jeep cherokee, remote start
Date Posted: February 20, 2009 at 4:28 PM
i was installing at viper 971 on a 2000 jeep cherokee and ran into a few problems. fist which was wired when i hoked up the satelite relay pack it started all by itself without touching the remote. so i thought it was the pack so i had a nother viper and swapped it out and it was fine. just thought it was wired and wanted to see if ever happened to any of you.
no heres the problem i used a bypass( jdl-pk) and i get the car to remote start and unlock but it wont lock. i check the conection to the bypass and it is ok, also for some reason everytime i turn the car on about 7 sec after the horn beeps 3 times and the same thing when i turn the car off. when i disconnect the bypass it stops. i was goin to change it out for the xk531 anyone have sucsess with this one
and finally when it does remote start the airbag and abs light go on. but when started with the key its fine. do i have to energize more ign or acc wires in the car.
sorry for the long post
but thanks for your help
Replies:
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: February 20, 2009 at 7:45 PM
| Battery | | RED | | (+) | | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | | | | Ignition 1 | | BLUE | | (+) | | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | | | | Ignition 2 | | BLACK/ ORANGE | | (+) | | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | | | | Accessory 1 | | BLACK/ WHITE | | (+) | | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | | | | Starter 1 | | YELLOW | | (+) | | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | | | | Anti-Theft Type | | DAIMLER SENTRY KEY® VEHICLE IMMOBILIZER | | | | Anti-Theft Descript | | THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER | | | | Key Sense | | PINK/LIGHT BLUE | | (-) | | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | | | | Neutral Safety | | YELLOW | | (+) | | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | | | | Tachometer | | GRAY | | (-) | | AT IGNITION COIL | | | | Parking Lights | | BLACK / YELLOW | | (+) | | AT VEHICLE LIGHT SWITCH | | | | Brake Lights | | WHITE/ TAN | | (+) | | AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL | | | | Reverse Lights | | BROWN / GREEN | | (+) | | IN HARNESS AT LIGHT |
Posted By: carguy411
Date Posted: February 20, 2009 at 10:57 PM
thanks . but i have the wire codes just wasnt sure of what was causing the problems that i was having
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: February 20, 2009 at 11:32 PM
That happened to me also with the door locks not locking and the 3 beeps. It took me about an hour to realize what it was. The problem is your door lock outputs on your remote starter unit must "flip Flop" what that means is when you press unlock for instance, one wire is negative and the other wire throw out a positive. When you press lock the opposite happens. The JDL-PK only wants to see the negative pulses not the positive, You need to place diodes on both the lock and unlock wires, this will block the postitive pulses. The JDL-PK manual actually says that in the tech notes box. The stripe on the diodes face back towards the alarm module not the JDL-PK. You need one diode per doorlock wire. As far as the airbag light going on, one of your ignition or accessory wires are not being powered up correctly. Use the wiring chart above and double check your connections with a meter.
Posted By: carguy411
Date Posted: February 21, 2009 at 12:09 AM
ok thanks but i think im gonna go with another bypass to be safe already had a problem with the relays.i took it all off and did it again is ther a 2nd acc that has to be powered or something
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: February 21, 2009 at 8:36 AM
I would check your ignition wires with a meter and make sure how they are firing up, as a accessory or ignition. I would check this with the key first. I would start with the BLACK/ orange wire. One site lists it as a ignition the other as an accessory. As for the bypass, you can check to see if its good by disconnecting the doorlock wires from the module and tapping each one individually to ground. Thats how I figured out I needed diodes. THEN i read it in the manual....
Posted By: carguy411
Date Posted: February 21, 2009 at 10:06 AM
ok thanks alot when i get the car back ill try that. is the diodes the reason for the horn honking also?
so you dont think i need the other bypass
thanks
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: February 21, 2009 at 4:17 PM
No, I know you won't need a new bypass. you definitly need to add diodes. The manual even mentions 3 horn honks here: When testing Door Lock functionality:- if either Lock or Unlock does not function when testing and the Horn sounds 3 times. Try adding 2 Diodes or 2 relays to correct the issue. That was directly from the manual of the JDL-PK. Add those diodes with the lines facing the alarm brain and you'll be good to go.
Posted By: carguy411
Date Posted: February 21, 2009 at 11:49 PM
so i have to swap the gren and blue dor lock wires and add diodes to both wires?
and you said for the abs light double check the ign wires again casuse the codes that i have could be wrong?
i didnt see anything like that in the directions i looked at them again maybe have an old copy
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: February 22, 2009 at 3:34 AM
here is a link to the manual for The JDL-PK module, it says it on the very bottom: https://bypasskit.com/getdocument.aspx?documentid=353 As for doorlock wires: green on the viper goes to the green lock wire on the JDL-PK through the diode blue on the viper goes to green unlock wire on the JDL-PK through the diode As for the ABS light it is caused by an ignition or accessory wire not firing up correctly during remote start. Its not the JDK-PK causing this. Remember the remote starter needs to duplicate the key. Take readings of the ignition wires while turning the key, take note on which are ignition and which are accessory, then start remote starting and make sure with your meter that they are behaving the same way. You definitely have some wire at the ignition harness not duplicating what the key does when remote starter. Fix that and away goes your ABS problem :o)
Posted By: carguy411
Date Posted: February 22, 2009 at 9:48 AM
ok thanks . yea i looked up the instructions yesterday. maybe i have an old sheet it came with but didnt say that. i should have looked it up that day save me some headaches.lol
just to clarify with the locks both of the lock wires form the viper are being connected to the 1 green lock wire on the JDL-PK thru 2 resistors right?
one other thing is there anyother way to do the parking lights . i went to 3 diff radio shacks and none of them have a 1500ohm resistor. should i just tap in to the hazard wire and switch the parking lights to pulse instead of constant?
thanks for your help.
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: February 22, 2009 at 1:43 PM
carguy411 wrote:
... should i just tap in to the hazard wire and switch the parking lights to pulse instead of constant?
The hazards flash by themselves, regardless of the type of input. ------------- Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.
Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?
Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: February 22, 2009 at 3:41 PM
i always use the parking light relay right above the fuses in the drivers side fuse box. there are a few relays there. you can verify you have the right relay by pulling them one at a time then checking if the parking lights went out. you need to look at the actual parking lights outside, not the dask lights. dash lights will stay on with the parking light relay pulled. then you need to set the viper to negative parking lights. With the parking light relay out you can test to see witch terminal goes to negative when turning the switch on and off. at that piont I usually use a "fuse tap" around the matching leg of the relay and plug my relay back in. I then connect my negative parking ight wire to the fuse tap. Easy as can be, the negative parking light wire will now turn on the parking light relay, thus turning on the parking lights I don't like using the hazard wire because of the blinking parking lights. I like the lights on steady
Posted By: carguy411
Date Posted: February 22, 2009 at 10:30 PM
flobee4 wrote:
i always use the parking light relay right above the fuses in the drivers side fuse box. there are a few relays there. you can verify you have the right relay by pulling them one at a time then checking if the parking lights went out. you need to look at the actual parking lights outside, not the dask lights. dash lights will stay on with the parking light relay pulled. then you need to set the viper to negative parking lights. With the parking light relay out you can test to see witch terminal goes to negative when turning the switch on and off. at that piont I usually use a "fuse tap" around the matching leg of the relay and plug my relay back in. I then connect my negative parking ight wire to the fuse tap. Easy as can be, the negative parking light wire will now turn on the parking light relay, thus turning on the parking lights I don't like using the hazard wire because of the blinking parking lights. I like the lights on steady
yea i do to thats y i wasnt sure with the hazards but this def is a good thing to know and i will deff look into it.
was i right on the above post on the door locks that both wires from the alarm get connected to the one wire on the dypass and diode isolate each.
thank you
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: February 22, 2009 at 11:23 PM
No, they still go to there individual "lock and "all door unlock" wires on the JDL-PK. so 2 individual wires to 2 individual wires on the bypass. through diodes. I posted how on the bottom of the first page of this post. Follow that and you'll be good.
Posted By: carguy411
Date Posted: February 23, 2009 at 9:03 AM
yeah that what i thoughtbut u wrote that both wire go to the green wire thats y i was thrown off.
Posted By: flobee4
Date Posted: February 23, 2009 at 4:55 PM
oh wow! I did write that sorry. I was toggling between instructions for the Viper and the JDL-PK and the12volt.com as my girlfriend was talking to me. I even told her to hold on a sec. I was helping somebody and needed a minute to type and I still wrote it wrong. LOL sorry... Frank
Posted By: carguy411
Date Posted: February 24, 2009 at 12:39 AM
lol its ok i appreciate all your help.
just thought i wasnt understanding it
lol
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