530t driver window issue when alarm arm

1991 Toyota Supra with Python 990 and 530T.

Ran wires through/to each door.  Installed according to 1st diagram "Type B" Window/System, page 5 of 530T installation manual.  I determined Type B system, by testing at passenger door and both wires to window motor rested at 1.5V when ignition switch on.

Connected the 530T RED / white (-) aux input to the 990's RED / white (-) 200mA Channel 2 validity output.  I also connected the orange "grounded when armed" wires from the 990 and the 530T.

The only weirdness was the up/down wires to the passenger motor, seemed to be opposite.  So, rechecked wiring and then rechecked the 530T install manual and switched the passenger motor wires (up & down incorrect in manual, or had to do because of the window module, I suppose).

Anyways,

One-touch and everything seems fine, both windows.  However when I use the remote to arm the alarm, windows close, but the driver's only closes halfway.

I was going to mess with the resistance, but am thinking that it's not the issue, since the window goes up all the way when I hit the 1-touch on it.  I may try messing with it anyways, but gonna wait for some feedback 1st.

Ideas to get the driver window to close all the way on "arm?"

Thanks in advance,

E

Your module may need a little power to put the window up when the key is off.   What gauge wire do you have run to the module?

Thanks for the quick reply.

I used 14 gauge for all the wires, which were run into each of the doors.  The switch-side wires from the module were much smaller... 18-22 maybe?  However, I still attached them to the 14 guage wire which I'd already run into the doors (to the switches).

On directechs is shows the windows as being type A.  Also does your 530t have the dipswitches on it? i know sometimes you need to make sure they are set to the correct jumpers as this may be causeing a issue. That  is ofcourse if the 530t you are using has them.

This is the wiring from the site.

So i would go back and check over everything, i know in a scion tc i did it required 2 sperate modules to run the windows because of the both express up and down, im not sure but this might be the case for the problem you are running into also.  If none of our suggestions help do a search on these forums or google and see if anything else comes up.  I would help you out but in work i have no access to Google :-(. 

Good luck and let us know what you find out.

~RichL68~

JWorm] wrote:

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djust the dipswitch for the next setting up on the drivers side window. When the car is off (arming alarm) the battery is at a lower voltage then when you are using the one-touch up feature (car is running).    You may notice that when winter comes you may need to increase the passenger side up one setting as well.

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That seems to have done it.  Now I can tuck everything away.  Worried about Winter and the passenger window, so will place the module in a "semi-easy" to reach spot.

Thanks again for all of ya'll's help.

E

Aggggghhhh.

Spoke too soon.  The passenger window will not work from either switch, with the key in the ignition.  However once the key is removed, it moves as it should (up or down).  When I arm the alarm the windows roll up as they should.

So, now I'm worried that even with the key out, there's still 1.5V going to the window (potentially draining the battery).  Also defeats the security system, 'cause someone could possibly stick something into the car and push the switch and window go down (easy access).

Too hot outside to mess with until later, but below is how I've wired it up.  I don't have access to the directechs site and am curious if the passenger door's polarity at rest, woudl have been different than the driver's side (when I was determining the system type).  That's why I went with the Type B diagram (passenger side rested at 1.5V positive on up & down).  If directechs says type A (according to RichL68.. THX, BTW), I guess I could try to reconfigure that way, but would like to double -check before changing the wiring around a bunch.

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I thought about just changing dipswitch 5 polarity back to +, but don't see that working very well.  Anyways, your help is certainly appreciated!!

Red H1/4 to (+) 12V Constant 20A Fused to power source
Black H1/5 to (-) Ground Chassis
Violet H1/1 to (-) Ground Chassis
Violet/Black H1/6 Ground path, Motor #2 to (-) Ground Chassis
RED / White H2/3 (-) Aux Input to Alarm RED / White (- Aux output)
Orange H2/4 (-) Ground when Armed to Alarm Orange (-) Ground when armed output

White H2/2 to Switch #1 Down
Blue H1/3 to Motor #1 Down
Brown H2/1 to Switch #1 Up
Green H1/2 to Motor #1 Up
GREEN/ Black H1/7 to Motor #2 Up (this is opposite of what the manual says,, so that window moves in right direction)
Blue/Black H1/8 to Motor #2 Down  (this is opposite of what the manual says, so that window moves in right direction)
BROWN / Black H2/6 to Switch #2 Up
WHITE/ Black H2/7 to Switch #2 Down

Dip Switches =
Switch 1 On
Switch 2 Off
Switch 3 On
Switch 4 Off
Switch 5 On Swich input polarity to (-) ....... Did this according to the Type B diagram

Still too hot, but messed with this again today.

Tried the "Type A" system configuration and it's definitely not the right one.  I reconfigured back to Type B and still working the same as before.  Everything's normal, 'cept the passenger window will not move when key is in ignition and does move, when the key is out.

So, while I am driving, that window can't be used (won't work from any switch).  Having power to it without the key on is also a concern for me, but having the stock functionality is the priority for now.  I've Googled and scoured the net, but am at a loss.  The 530T manual does not have much in the troubleshooting section and I don't know if this supposed to be some additional feature (gone wrong).

Thoughts, SWAGs, or any other ideas?

Turned out the passenger window-LOCK button was in an always "locked" state.  Replaced the switch with an extra and all's working fine now.  Module was wired in correctly and operating as it should.

Thanx 4 the support,E