2009 toyota camry se and viper 5901
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=119132
Printed Date: April 23, 2024 at 7:11 PM
Topic: 2009 toyota camry se and viper 5901
Posted By: thunderplains
Subject: 2009 toyota camry se and viper 5901
Date Posted: January 05, 2010 at 11:04 PM
Alright, I am installing my 5901 BEFORE my system goes in and I have read this forum to the brink of madness. I have a couple of simple questions and I would like a quick review of what "I think" the correct setup is for this car. I am using the XK05 (I have read about it's hell) and plan on wiring it directly to the colum. Anyways, as far as remote start is concerned, this is what I came up with.. (Harnesss H3) H1/Pink -> IGN1 (yellow) solder to existing wire, do not cut H2/RED / White -> 12 volt source constant (Do I NEED to wire this?) H3/Orange -> ACC1 (white) solder to existing, do not cut H4/Violet -> S1 (blue) cut wire, solder to engine side H5/Green -> S1 (blue) cut wire, solder to key side H6/Red -> 12 volt source constant H7/Pink/White -> IGN2 (pink) solder to existing, do not cut H8/Pink/Black -> Not sure here. I also have a Starter 2 wire on the camry, Is this where a SPDT relay comes into play using the violet (-200mA) on the RS harness? H9/RED / Black -> 12 volt source constant Want to do this just once and right. Also, on the XK05, I see where the wires are on the colum, my question is do I need to fuse the constant? and do I need to plug it into the D2D jack on the 5901? Ok, last few.. I got the trunk release.. I will never ask that question.. :) With the 5901 on harness H1, Parking light relay.. What is the proper setup for this car? (I see the WHITE/ brown & white parking light wires) The WHITE/ blue remote start activation, where does this go? On Harness (H2) Light GREEN/ black & white (OEM arm / disarm) I could not find on the wiring diagrams where to tap this into.. Light blue 2nd unlock - Do I just take this and the blue unlock and tap it into the same unlock wire on the car? (My car has the press once unlock drivers, press twice unlock all) That's about it.. Sorry if this is too much.. but better safe than sorry and I hope I did not ask the same question that has been asked 100's of times.. (probably did) Any help would be greatly appreciated... Thanks..
Replies:
Posted By: 05gt
Date Posted: January 06, 2010 at 2:07 AM
Is this car a push to start or hybrid?? I would not use this bypass on this car, use an ADS-AL-CA from idatalink, you will need to find the adaptor cable that works in conjunction with DEI and Idatalink, it will still be wired in D2D H3/1 Pink IGN 1 (will go to yellow at ignition switch) H3/2 RED / White 12V (will go to thick black at the dash fuse box, it is in a 1 pin plug) H3/3 Orange ACC (will go to white at ignition switch) H3/4 Violet Starter (will go to blue at ignition switch) H3/5 Green (not needed) H3/6 Red 12V (will go to thick black at the dash fuse box, it is a 1 pin connector) H3/7 Pink/White 2nd IGN (will go to pink at ignition switch) H3/8 Pink/Black (not needed) H3/9 RED / Black 12V (will go thick black at the dash fuse box, it is a 1 pin connector) you will need to wire a relay for the second starter wire (you will use H2/13 to power a relay for this) H1/11 White Parklights (switch the jumper internally on the viper brain for NEGATIVE parklights and then connect this wire to a BLACK wire at the headlight switch harness H1/10 WHITE/ Blue remote start activation (not needed) if you use the idatalink bypass you do not need the OEM alarm and disarm wires if you use the idatalink bypass you do not need any of the door lock wires the idatalink bypass will control doorlocks, oem alarm, trunk release, e-brake, tach, brake, doorpin, hoodpin (if equipped), trunkpin this is just for reference YOU NEED TO TEST ALL YOUR WIRES YOU ARE HOOKING UP TO AVOID POSSIBLE ISSUES
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 06, 2010 at 8:04 AM
First, how is the H3/5 Green (not needed) not needed?
And according to Viper, RS violet Starter is the relay start..
This is a non-smart key sedan.
Posted By: 05gt
Date Posted: January 06, 2010 at 12:57 PM
in your situation you won't need to hook up the green wire, THAT IS HOW it is for a starter kill relay, but your car already has a factory immobilizer, plus it COULD avoid future issues yes you are right H3/4 violet (starter) goes to your starter wire in the car
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 06, 2010 at 3:35 PM
No offense 05, but lets do it right and connect the starter kill relay. Cut the blue at the ignition switch and connect H3/5 green to the switch side and H3/4 purple to the starter side. This will not only allow the starter kill to work, but make the anti-grind work. You can get power for the RED / white, RED / black and the red at the wire 05 suggests, or you can use the black wire at the ignition switch. Either will work. I am totally with 05 on the Idatalink module. Great unit and the XK05 stinks. Oem arm/disarm wires, don't use them. You will need to connect the blue or blue/white status wire from the RS to the key sense wire to disarm. This wire is blue in a 2 pin plug right next to the ignition switch. This will make the car think the key is in the ignition when you use the RS and disarm the factory alarm. Factory arm and disarm when you use the alarm will occur when you connect the lock/unlock wires. ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 06, 2010 at 3:46 PM
Also, yes the second unlock wire simply gets connected to the first unlock. This will make your 2 stage unlock work. Don't forget the relay is needed for second starter, very important. I don't know the Viper product well enough to tell you if it has a flex relay that will do second starter like AVOX products do. If not, use a relay as you stated using the thin violet wire to activate it. ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 06, 2010 at 8:09 PM
Mike.. Your post made me think and I just looked at the wiring for the Viper, here is the output Pink - IGN1 (also ignition sense input) RED / White - 12V constant (+) fused 30a input (contact 87 or RS flex relay) Orange - Accessory output Violet - starter output (car side) green - starter output (key side) Red - 12V constant (+) fused 30a input (for ignition 1 relay) Pink/White - Flex Relay output Pink/Black - Flex Relay contact 87a Red / Black - 12V constant (+) fused 30a input (for accessory and starter relay) This is the starter harness for the 5901, also, on the RS harness, there is the following that could be a help Blue RS status (-) 200mA output Violet RS starter (-) 200mA output On the Toyota side, we have this.. Battery Black (+) IGN 1 Yellow (+) IGN 2 Pink (+) Access 1 White (+) Starter 1 Blue (+) Starter 2 Gray (+) Key Sense Blue (-) Also, If I pick up the Idatalink, based on what I read, looks like there will only be 3 or 4 wires, 2 to key 2 to CANbus and thats it? Everything else gets spliced into alarm unit.. Anyways, I dont want to screw up the starter circuits and I got everything else nailed down, so guidence in putting the right thin in the right place based on the above would be perfect.. and yes, the 5901 has a flex relay. Still need a SPDT?
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 06, 2010 at 8:10 PM
Also, using the black wire at the ignition, I splice into or cut?
Posted By: 05gt
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 12:29 AM
With the idatalink piece you will most likely connect 6 wires to the car if you don't have a factory hoodpin, or 5 wires to the car if you have a factory hoodpin, you can use the D2D cable or hardwire everything to the remote starter, If you decide to hardwire you obviously will have more wires you will splice into the black wire at the ignition, not cut it MIKE M2 no offense taken "most" new cars have factory antigrind, including my own personal car which is a 09 volkswagen, the last 09 corolla I did I never used the relay and it wouldn't let the starter crank once it was already runnning, So I am assuming the 09 camry might have it anyways I personally don't put the starter relay in the car unless the car is pre factory immobilzer era or the customer requests it, if something goes wrong you always get those customers who get stranded and then they freak out at you
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 6:31 AM
I see, the flex relay is the pink/white so you will need that for the second ignition. That means you will need to wire a relay just for the second starter gray wire.
------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 9:23 AM
Ok, so let me see if I got this right...
Pink - IGN1 (also ignition sense input) - IGN 1 Yellow (+)
RED / White - 12V constant (+) fused 30a input (contact 87 of RS flex relay) - Battery Black (+)
Orange - Accessory output - Access 1 White (+)
Violet - starter output (car side) - Starter 1 Blue (car) (+)
green - starter output (key side) - Starter 1 Blue (key) (+)
Red - 12V constant (+) fused 30a input (for ignition 1 relay) - Battery Black (+)
Red / Black - 12V constant (+) fused 30a input (for accessory and starter relay) - Battery Black (+)
This is where I get a tad confused..
I have a starter 2 and ignition 2 on the car harness and I have these:
Pink/White - Flex Relay output
Pink/Black - Flex Relay contact 87a
As far as programming goes, the flex relay can either be configured for Ignition 2 (default), Accessory 2 or Starter 2. So How do I PROPERLY hook up Ignition 2 & Starter 2 from the car? And if I need the SPDT relay, what goes to what pole (I am thinking that the pink/white on the RS harness which is for the flex relay -200mA (default is for Ignition 2) would go to either 85 or 86, or do I need a diode for this?
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 9:30 AM
I should also mention that the default for these:
Pink/White - Flex Relay output
Pink/Black - Flex Relay contact 87a
Is ignition 2 as well from a programming standpoint.
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 9:47 AM
Ok.. After a few cups of coffee.. Let me know if I am heading in the right direction..
Pink/White - Flex Relay Output - IGN 2 Pink (+)
Pink/Black - Flex Relay Contact 87a - Not used
wire up a STSP relay as follows
85 or 86 - RS violet -200mA starter
30 - Starter 2 Grey (+)
87 - 12v constant fused 30amp (black from harness (+))
Right direction?
Also, with the starter 2, I cut starter 1, does not seem like you need to do that here, just splice..
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 4:51 PM
Ok..
Looking at it more, seems all I need to do is wire a relay for starter 2, can you give me the pole wiring for this? I have a RS violet -200mA (-) for the coil, what else needs to be done?
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 4:54 PM
thunderplains wrote:
Ok.. After a few cups of coffee.. Let me know if I am heading in the right direction..
Pink/White - Flex Relay Output - IGN 2 Pink (+)
Pink/Black - Flex Relay Contact 87a - Not used
wire up a STSP relay as follows 85 or 86 - RS violet -200mA starter 30 - Starter 2 Grey (+) 87 - 12v constant fused 30amp (black from harness (+))
Right direction?
Also, with the starter 2, I cut starter 1, does not seem like you need to do that here, just splice..
Correct. Do not cut starter 2. Relay is correct, but use 85 or 86 for for thin Violet na dht eother one needs 12 volts constant along with 87. ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 5:29 PM
Ok, so this is what is should look like..
85 - Violet RS status (-200mA)
30 - Starter 2 (splice wire into starter 2 on IGN harness)
86 & 87 Constant 12v 30amp fused (black on harness (+))
perfect. One question.. How does one splice the 5 or so wires that need constant into the one black wire on the harness??
Do I need a diode here at all either?
Thanks Man..
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 7:51 PM
Well here's what i do when i have to connect that much wires onto one! Take your nippers and strip the insulation away at one end and about two inches down strip away some more, then take a knife or blade of some sort and splice away the insulation left at the centre of both cuts, this would leave just copper exposed about two inches long, make all the connections, solder and tape PROPERLY! Since you're new to this you should remove the negative of the battery when doing this!
------------- COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 7:52 PM
Oh and no diodes needed! Your relay wiring is accurate as well
------------- COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 08, 2010 at 3:07 PM
Perfect..
I picked up the ADS-ALCA.. Muuuuuuccchhh better..
One question, the GWR, does this tie to WHITE/ blue remote start activation? and I can run the constant and the black to the same point as the alarm, yes?
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 08, 2010 at 3:15 PM
thunderplains wrote:
Perfect..
I picked up the ADS-ALCA.. Muuuuuuccchhh better..
One question, the GWR, does this tie to WHITE/ blue remote start activation? and I can run the constant and the black to the same point as the alarm, yes?
Ground when running on the Idatalink? Goes to the blue status wire on the RS. Nothing connects to the WHITE/ blue. Not sure i understand the second Q... ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 08, 2010 at 3:20 PM
second question, power and grnd on the iDatalink is what I was referring to
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 08, 2010 at 3:33 PM
Also, the 5901 OEM arm/disarm.. no use with the idatalink
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 08, 2010 at 3:36 PM
And do I run the 2nd unlock output to the adslaca as well?
Looks like this device does everything
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 08, 2010 at 6:59 PM
Yes, tie it into the other power and grounds. No, don't use them. Yes, tie into the first unlock... ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 09, 2010 at 10:56 AM
Ok.. I got it laid out.. If someone can verify.. Im good to go..
Also, The ADS LA CA has a e-brake (-) output, 5901 has nothing for it, suggestions??
5901 HARNESS WIRING GUIDE (TO)
H1
RED / White Aux trunk release TO ADSALCA RED / white trunk release input
Red 12v constant input TO Backup Battery Gray Battery module output
Brown Siren TO Siren
WHITE/ Brown Flex Parking Light Relay 87a TO n/u
Black Chassis Ground TO Chassis Ground
Violet Door input TO n/u
Blue Trunk instant trigger input TO ADSALCA / Backup Bat yellow/red - Blue trunk status output / backup battery sense
Green Door input TO ADSALCA yellow/black door status output
BLACK/ White Domelight output TO n/u
WHITE/ Blue Remote Start activation input TO n/u
White Parking light output 30 TO CamSE black parking lights (fuse box)
Orange Ground when armed output TO n/u
RS IN
BLACK/ White Neutral safety input TO Chassis ground
Violet/White tach input TO ADSALCA PURPLE / white Tach (AC) output
Brown Brake shut down input TO ADSALCA orange Brake output
Gray Hood pin switch NO/NC input TO ADSALCA yellow hood status output
Blue/White 2nd remote start status / Defogger (prgm) output TO ??
Door Unlock/Lock
Blue Unlock (-) Lock (+) TO ADSALCA blue/black unlock input
Green Unlock (+) Lock (-) TO ADSALCA GREEN/ black lock input
H2
L GREEN/ black OEM disarm output TO n/u
L GREEN / WHITE OEM arm output TO n/u
WHITE/ violet Aux 1 output TO n/u
Violet/black Aux 2 output TO n/u
WHITE/ black Aux 3 output TO n/u
Light blue 2nd unlock output TO ADSALCA blue/black unlock input?
Gray/Black wait to start input TO n/u
BROWN / Black horn honk output TO CamSE white Fuse box
RS out
Blue RS status output TO ADSALCA blue/white ground while running
Pink RS IGN1 output TO n/u
Violet RS starter output TO STDP relay (Starter 2) Pin 85
Orange RS Accessory output TO n/u
Pink/White Flex output (IGN2 default, prgm) TO n/u
H3
Pink IGN 1 output TO CamSE IGN 1 / ADSALCA Yellow / Pink IGN Harness / IGN sense input
RED / White 12v constant fused 30a input (87 of RS flex relay) TO CamSE 12v Con Black IGN Harness
Orange Accessory output TO CamSE Acc 1 White IGN Harness
Violet Starter output (car side) TO CamSE Start 1 Blue IGN Harness
Green Starter output (key side) TO CamSE Start 1 Blue IGN Harness
Red 12v constant fused 30a input (for IGN1 relay) TO CamSE 12v Con Black IGN Harness
Pink/White Flex Relay output (default IGN2, prgm) TO CamSE IGN 2 Pink IGN Harness
Pink/Black Flex Relay contact 87a (defualt IGN2, prgm) TO N/U
RED / Black 12v constant fused 30a input (Access & Starter) TO CamSE 12v con Black IGN Harness
BACKUP BATTERY 520T
Red 12v constant 30a fused TO CamSE 12v con Black IGN Harness
Black Chassis Ground TO Chassis Ground
Gray Input 12v constant from alarm (red) TO 5901 H1 Red 12v constant 30a fused
Blue instant trigger from alarm (blue) TO 5901 H1 Blue Trunk instant trigger input
ADS LA CA
blue/white ground while running TO 5901 RS out Blue RS status output
black Chassis ground TO Chassis ground
red 12v constant 30amp fused TO CamSE 12v con Black IGN Harness
GREEN/ black lock input TO 5901 Door lock/unlock Green Unlock (+) Lock (-)
blue/black unlock input TO 5902 Door lock/unlock Blue Unlock (-) Lock (+)
RED / white trunk release input TO 5901 H1 RED / White Aux trunk release
green e-brake output TO ??
PURPLE / white Tach (AC) output TO 5901 RS in Violet/White tach input
yellow/black door status output TO 5901 H1 Green Door input
yellow/red trunk status output TO 5901 H1 Blue Trunk instant trigger input
yellow hood status output TO 5901 RS in Gray Hood pin switch NO/NC input
BROWN / red CANh TO CamSE 6/black OBDII
BROWN / yellow CANl TO CamSE 14/white OBDII
ORANGE / black Chassis ground (OEM hood pin installed) TO Chassis ground
orange Brake output TO 5901 RS in Brown Brake shut down input
Pink IGN input (+) TO CamSE IGN 1 Yellow IGN 1 Harness
GREEN/ red code TO CamSE 4/brown Key IGN Imm
gray/red txct TO CamSE 5/red Key IGN Imm
STDP Relay Starter 2
85 Violet RS starter output -200mA
86 12v constant fused 30a (Black IGN)
87 12v constant fused 30a (Black IGN)
87a n/u
30 CamSE Starter 2 (Gray, splice)
GLASS SENSOR
n/a Plug into port on 5901 (ext motion sensor)
hmm.. lousy cut and paste, but its all there..
is it better to hardwire or use the special D2D cable they provide?
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 09, 2010 at 12:02 PM
Make sure your park light output is set to negative if you use the black wire. E brake not used. blue white not needed. Tie the second unlock and the first unlock together. I don't know how much draw the 520T needs, never installed one. It must be a lot so you may want to connect the red on it to the fat black on the front of the BCM/fuse box which is a 50amp. I believe you ground the ORANGE / black on the Idata if you DON'T have a hood pin switch. ALWAYS hard wire, D2D is very unreliable. Make sure you program accordingly for this. ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 09, 2010 at 12:59 PM
Pefect.. No GWR? what's its function anyways?
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 09, 2010 at 1:02 PM
Also, How does one tap the defogger to make it kick on when the car starts? the 5901 has an output for that
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 09, 2010 at 1:42 PM
The blue/white GWR is the exact same as the blue staus wire. It gives ground when ever the Rs is on. You use it for things like keysense(which you don't need thanks to the Idata) or to turn on key in a box bypass. You are using the blue staus to trigger the Idata(connected to the blue/white on the Idata) which simply tells the bypass to turn on. As for defog, i have never done it on a Camry. ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: 05gt
Date Posted: January 09, 2010 at 6:11 PM
rear defrost should be a green wire in the drivers kick, the system is negative latched
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 09, 2010 at 7:05 PM
It really seems like the Idatalink takes care of alot and I only have to hook up a hand full of wires to the car? Nice... I am taking a look now at the kick panel for the defrost
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 10, 2010 at 10:40 PM
Q..
After the remote start w/Idatalink, when I get in the car, Do I need to put the key in and turn or just drop it in drive and go?
I think the XK05 made you restart the car.
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 11, 2010 at 3:16 PM
Hey Mike, QQ
On the relay wiring, the RS start violet goes to 85 and 12v constant goes to 86, Does that need a high fuse rating like 87 that goes to starter 2? or can I get away with a 5 amp or so fuse?
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 11, 2010 at 4:27 PM
5 amp should do it...
------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 18, 2010 at 8:59 AM
Crap..
Ran into issue and end of install.. The SE version does not have a "Engine hood courtesy switch" built into it's latch. I have to add the engine hood pin.
How does it wire up to the ADS-LA CA module and my 5901 RS?
Sorry if this is easy, long night, no coffee yet..
Posted By: thunderplains
Date Posted: January 18, 2010 at 9:03 AM
This is how the module is wired now..
ADS yellow hood status output TO 5901 RS in Gray Hood pin switch NO/NC input
Posted By: 05gt
Date Posted: January 20, 2010 at 1:07 PM
you have to run a hood pin switch out to the engine area run the grey wire from the viper unit to the hoodpin switch, there is no connection from the idatalink module
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