crank time not long enough
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=119199
Printed Date: June 03, 2024 at 5:43 PM
Topic: crank time not long enough
Posted By: 87gtaj
Subject: crank time not long enough
Date Posted: January 09, 2010 at 2:16 PM
I just installed a Ready Remote Remote Start Unit (#24921) on an '07 Honda Pilot. Everything works great, except that it only cranks for 1 second at most. I think it may not be cranking to its full capabilities, because it seems like it should crank longer. The car needs a bit more to get it started. I read the manual and it states that if it cranks for 1-2 seconds, and stops, check the wiring because the ignition/accessory wires are connected in reverse, or you have the wrong ignition circuit. Well the wiring is connected properly (unless the diagram is wrong) and there is only one ignition circuit. Plus, it barely cranks for 1 second, that may be stretching it. I am using voltage sense, so I thought possibly using tach sense may do the trick, but the manual also says that the vehicle would start, but die after 10 seconds if voltage mode wasn't working. So, I was wondering if there's a way to manually "tell" it to crank longer, since this unit isn't programmable according to the installation guide. Or, is the consensus that I should in fact hook up the tach sense and see if that does the trick. Or is there something else I'm overlooking? Thanks
Replies:
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: January 09, 2010 at 3:16 PM
A couple of things to check. Ensure you have a good connection to ground. Double check for a good connection to IGN1. Did you attach to both ACC1 and ACC2? Which engine immobilizer bypass are you using? Is it hooked up correctly and did it program OK? Switching over to Tach Mode is easy enough. The Tach signal is a Blue wire in a Light Green 10 pin plug at the fuse box. Then follow the manual to learn the tach signal. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: 87gtaj
Date Posted: January 10, 2010 at 8:48 AM
My ground is good. Ignition connection is also good. Both Accessories are hooked up, and their connections are also good. I'm using the Bulldog 791 Bypass. What do you mean by did it program correctly? Is there a step to program it that I may have missed? One other question, The factory alarm disarm is in the "driver's door module". Where is this? I simply didn't hook it up, and instead use the factory remote to unlock the car first, which should disable the feature of not letting the car start before the doors are unlocked, and then pressing remote start. Does this work or do I need to find this wire and hook it up?
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: January 10, 2010 at 9:10 AM
Not connecting disarm, but always unlocking with the factory remote before starting, will work just fine. I would find it inconvenient myself, but it won't give you any problems.
You either have an immobilizer (key in the box) problem or tach/crank time problem.
Here are your two troubleshooting options, your choice:
A: Connect tach, program tach, wait and see if problem goes away or not.
B: Sit in car, turn key on, watch green "key" symbol on dashboard. Note that it comes on steady, then goes out. OK, now you know how the light is supposed to work.
Next, hit the remote start, while watching the light again.
If the light comes on steady like it's supposed to, your bypass is good.
If the light is flashing instead, your bypass is bad. Maybe you didn't put the ring tight enough around the car's keyhole. If you just toss the ring over the keyhole like it is, it won't work........take a piece of tape or zip tie, and make the ring as small as can possibly be and tightly put it around the car's keyhole.
Posted By: 87gtaj
Date Posted: January 10, 2010 at 11:03 AM
Okay, those will be some thigns that I'll check out next time I get to work on the car (it belongs to my former boss's wife, so I don't have access to it all the time). With the bypass ring, I didn't know it had to be tight around the cylinder. I placed it around, then used tape to secure it to the cylinder, but I never cinched it up to close the loop any. Just for info, why is that necessary? Also, what could be bad in the bypass, other than receiving a faulty unit? The key sits inside the loop in the box just fine, and I made sure the key started the vehicle before installing the whole thing. Thanks for all of the help.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: January 10, 2010 at 3:06 PM
On the Bulldog 791 Bypass Unit there should be a red light. If it looks like the bypass is the problem using the above mentioned Green Key light on dash, try disconnecting the 791 bypass and remote starting with a key in the ignition (but not turned). The 791 only needs 3 wires connected. The Blue wire will go to the 24921's H1/1 Blue (-) Status Out. The 791 Red wire goes to a constant +12v ( one of the heavy Red relay wires at the 24921) and the 791's orange wire goes to ground (H1/5 Black wire). Check the little white antenna lead to make sure its on the pins properly and then make sure the loop is in the correct area of the IGN switch. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: 87gtaj
Date Posted: January 17, 2010 at 8:32 PM
The problem was with the bypass loop not being tight enough around the key cylinder. I cinched it up and it works - intermittently. It works about 97% of the time. Just once in a great while it won't start and it acts like the bypass is faulty (partial crank and then nothing). I told my boss to keep an eye on it and let me know if it acts up any more. Thanks for the help.
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