viper 5901 antenna placement

Hi all, quick question. I'm trying to do somewhat of a stealth install with a Viper 5901. It's being installed in a '94 GMC Yukon if that matters. But my problem is that where I want to install the brain of the alarm the antenna wire will only be long enough to mount the antenna on the driver's side at the top of the windshield. Most of the other alarm installs I've seen have had the antenna in the center at the top of the windshield. Do you guys think that having the antenna on the side of the windshield will have a negative impact on range? I am afraid that having the antenna right next to the A-pillar would decrease range. I'm in the middle of the installation right now so if you guys think that this will cause a noticeable decrease in range I may just forgo the whole stealth installation. Range is more important to me. Thanks for the help.

honestly you probably wouldn't notice any difference in range whether the antenna was in the middle or the left or right of the windshield 

Thanks, that's what I was hoping to hear.

This may sound stupid but how do you turn on the 2 way remote? I'm finishing up the install and want to test it but can't turn on the remote. The only info that I found in the manual is to hold down the f button or plug it into the charger. I've tried both with no luck, nothing even appears on the lcd. Can anybody offer any insight? After reading through the manual this seems unusual and I'm worried that the remote is defective. Thanks.

Have you allowed it to charge?

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Yeah I charged it overnight a couple of days ago and I'm charging it again right now. According to the manual it should show that it's charging on the lcd but nothing appears on the lcd.

Actually I just checked on the remote again and now it's showing that it's charging. That's weird, maybe the charger didn't make a good connection the first time I tried charging it. Well it seems fine now, sorry to waste your time. I'm glad it was an easy fix though.

Well I went to test it and I'm having much more serious trouble. Whenever I try to plug in the brain it seems like the module sends out a constant system wide pulse. The horn starts going off, doors lock, car starts but the starter keeps running. Even if I pull the fuse supplying power to the brain, when I connect it the horn (ground trigger) starts going off. I'm really worried and would appreciate any input. I've double checked all of my connections at the harnesses with a DMM. The only connection I had wrong was the dome light supervision. I thought this connection was to trigger the alarm if the dome light comes on not turn on the dome light when the alarm is disarmed. So I had this connected without a relay but have since disconnected this wire and will hook it up with a relay later. Any ideas on what would cause this? I can post a list of my connections if necessary. Thanks.

Here's a list of the connections I've made. If someone could just verify these I would appreciate it.
NC = Not Connected
H1
1.RED / White (-)200mA Aux/Trunk Output - NC
2.Red (+)12VDC Constant Input - +12V (10AWG fused wire connected directly to battery)
3.Brown (+)Siren Output - Red wire on siren
4.WHITE/ Brown Parking Light Isolation Wire (Pin 87a of onboard relay) - NC
5.Black (-)Chassis Ground - Grounded to screw drilled into kick panel
6.Violet (+)Door Trigger Input - NC
7.Blue (-)Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input - NC
8.Green (-) Door Trigger Input - BLACK/ Orange wire at dome light switch (Shows continuity to ground whenever any door or the hatch is opened)
9.BLACK/ White (-)200mA Dome Light Supervision Output - NC
10.WHITE/ Blue (-)Remote Start/Turbo Timer Activation Input - NC
11.White Parking Light Output - Brown wire at headlight switch (Shows +12V when parking lights are on; light flash polarity on module set to (+))
12.Orange (-)500mA Ground When Armed Output - NC

H2
1.Light GREEN/ Black (-)200mA OEM Alarm Disarm Output - NC
2.ORANGE / Black (-)200mA Aux 4 Output - NC
3.GREEN / WHITE (-)200mA OEM Alarm Arm Output - NC
4.Violet/Black (-)200mA Aux 2 Output - NC
5.WHITE/ Black (-)200mA Aux 3 Output - NC
6.WHITE/ Violet (-)200mA Aux 1 Ouput - NC
7.Grey/Black (-) Diesel Wait to Start Input - NC
8.BROWN / Black (-)200mA Horn Honk Output - Black Wire at steering column, shows (-) when horn is pressed
9.Violet/White Tachometer Input - NC
10.Dark Blue (-)200mA Status Output - NC
11.Pink/White (-)200mA Flex Relay Control Output - NC
12.Orange (-)200mA Accessory Output - NC
13.Purple (-)200mA Starter Output - NC
14.Pink (-)200mA Ignition 1 Output - NC
15.Grey (-)Hood Pin Input - To hood pin switch
16.Blue/White (-)200mA 2nd Status/Rear Defogger Output - NC
17.Brown (+)Brake Shutdown Input - White wire at brake switch, shows +12V when brake is depressed
18.BLACK/ White (-)Neutral Safety Input - NC

H3
1.Pink (+)Ignition 1 Input/Output - Pink wire, shows +12V in run and start positions
2.RED / White (87) Flex Relay Input (30A Fused) - Constant +12V
3.Orange (+)Accessory Output - Orange wire, shows +12V in run but not start position
4.Violet (+)Starter Output (Car Side Of Starter Kill) - Starter side of purple wire (cut), shows +12V in start position
5.Green (+)Starter Input (Key Side Of Starter Kill) - Ignition switch side of above purple wire
6.Red Ignition 1 Input (30A Fused) - Constant +12V
7.Pink/White (30) Flex Relay Output - NC
8.Pink/Black (87a) Flex Relay Input - NC
9.RED / Black Accessory/Starter Relay Input (30A Fused) - Constant +12V
10.No Connection

Door Lock
1.Blue (-)500mA Unlock Output - Green wire of Audiovox AS9159
2. Empty
3.Green (-)500mA Lock Output - Red wire of Audiovox AS9159
The truck already had an Audiovox AS9159 door lock interface module installed from a previous alarm. It accepts (-) pulses from alarm systems so I just left that alone and connected the 5901 wires accordingly.

All the above connections were made by soldering and then either using heat shrink if possible or electrical tape.

I'm not sure if it helps or not but I checked the 5901 with a DMM to try to find out why the horn was going off. I checked for continuity to pin H1/5 the chassis ground, and most of the outputs on the H2 harness show continuity. The outputs that show continuity are pins: 1-6, 8, 10-14, and 16. Also the ground when armed output on harness H1 and both the unlock and lock output wires. I don't know if this tells us anything but that doesn't seem right to me. That means that all of these (-) outputs are resting at ground and therefore being triggered even when the unit doesn't have power.

I'm sorry for the super long post. Any ideas that anybody has would be greatly appreciated.

If your connecting the alarm to an automatic transmission vehicle you must connect the (BLACK/ White)neutral safety wire to ground. I would also strongly recommend connecting the (Violet/White)Tachometer input. When testing the Tach wire your DMM must be set to AC. Make sure the old alarm is COMPLETELY removed and all damaged wires are repaired.

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**ADVANCED MECP CERTIFIED

Thanks for the reply. I'll try grounding the neutral safety switch wire. Other than that you didn't see any problems though, right? I am planning on hooking up the tach wire I just wanted to test it out first. And every single piece of the old alarm has been removed and the wires were taped up.

Update: The alarm module was defective. I got another one, plugged it in and it works. Apparently this doesn't happen very often as an installer I spoke with doubted that anything was wrong with the module. I guess I was just very unlucky.