viper 5901 2007 gmc sierra classic

Hi, I'm finally getting around to hooking up and alarm/remote start in my truck. Think I've decided on a Viper 5901, just need to make a final decision on what brand/model of bypass.

With so many options out there for bypasses, which one would be the way to go?

Thanks, Matt

think i would go with the dlpkgm for that one

it will do the door locks, arm/disarm factory alarm, parking light control, heated seats and mirrors, defroster, tach, and rap shutdown.

all through d2d connection saving a lot of time in the installation with only 2 wires to the vehicle and 2 wires to the remote starter

it can be bought cheap here to here

hope this helps

if you do go with this one heres the instructions for your vehicle

instructions

Thanks a lot, I was leaning towards that one. Just wasn't sure with all of the choices out there, lol.

Matt

fortin or idatalink will do the job.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

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fortin or idatalink will do the job.

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will one of these units be better than using a dlpkgm?

IMHO the Idatalink unit is the best of the group. The technology Idata constantly updates is second to none.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Mike M2 wrote:

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IMHO the Idatalink unit is the best of the group. The technology Idata constantly updates is second to none.

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what model idata?

Thanks, Matt

I have had very good luck with the dlpkgm it is made by the same company as the viper alarm system your looking at cheaper then idatalink

the idatalinks are great unit, but very hard to get in canada, where i live.  

from idatalink ADS-ALSL GM will cut your install time down significantly. Im not a frequent idatalink user, but i sometimes use them, but i can only get my hands on the blade modules since im a compustar user.

other than that, im a stuck on fortin guy. Fortin CAN-SL2 is what i would use, but remember. EVERYONE has their own preferance.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

i personally like to use the idatalink stuff, the tech support is the best in the business

i still use XK01's in D2D on these vehicles and they work fine.....   second choice would be an Idata ADS-AL-DL.... but they have been iffy with their GM firmwares lately.... more trouble than they are worth IMHO

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

Thank you all for your answers.

Is there a favorite spot under the dash to secure the brain?

Thanks again.

under the sierra, you will have tons of room to hide the brain high up in the dash.

as long as you can conceal the brain and make it look untouched or factory, thats best.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

The DLPKGM is a very nice piece. It does the door locks, bypass, tach output... Those trucks are an installer's dream. I usually put the brain behind the headlight switch, a/c vent assembly. Once you have the dash off the whole thing snaps out and you will have plenty of room. Another thing don't permanently remove the metal knee bolster bolted under the steering column. Take it down, do your connections, put it back. It is there for a reason. PM me if you need any help

Everything is ordered, just have to wait til the package gets dropped off. I just need to get a couple rolls of tape, and some solder.

If I have any questions, I will be sure to ask.

Oh ya, I need to pick up a relay. What brand do you suggest?

any standard automotive relay 30/40 amps will do. if you purchse the harness as well, it will make everything easier. if you pay more than 10bucks, your getting ripped off.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Have the alarm and bypass in my hands.

Do you suggest cutting the wires off of the harnesses that I dont use, or just bundle them up and leave them alone?

personally i would short them up some and tape them off to reduce bulk.

or not plug in unused harness

leave enough wire so you can add later if you want.

Tomorrow is the install day. I have the hood pin, and sired mounted already. Is the whole dash cover easily removed? I see several 7mm bolts on the drivers side, what is securing the dash cover on the passenger side? Im still trying to find a suitable place for the brain. No room behind the gauges, radio, glove box, or drivers side kick panel.

I could mount it just above the obd2 connector, but there has to be a better spot than that, right?

Thanks!

Have it figured out where I will put the brain.

got everything hooked up, and the xk01 light stayed solid. stayed solid no matter what. so i decided to pick up an idatalink ads-dl that has been flashed with the correct firmware for my truck.

it doesnt have the correct d2d wire, so i will go wire to wire.
have a few questions.
the ground when armed is -500ma
the 3 pin door lock outputs are -500ma
the oem alarm disarm output is -200ma

do i use relays when hooking these up, or just solder them to the correct wires on the bypass?

tach output(ac)
output on bypass to input on the h2/9? or is there something else i have to connect?

thanks in advance, i appreciate it.

Matt

the viper outputs go straight to the idatalink, no need for relays etc.

as for the tach output, run a tach wire OR just set it to voltage sense. this vehicle has an anti grind circuit built in.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

roger on no relays.

tach input to tach output? or connect them together, and connect them to the wire on the back of the cluster?

Thanks, tedmond!

matt

matthewjon wrote:

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roger on no relays.

tach input to tach output? or connect them together, and connect them to the wire on the back of the cluster?

Thanks, tedmond!

matt

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Tach output of bypass module to tach input of viper

yes that is correct.

you have 2 options.

1) connect idatalink tach output to viper tach input
2) run it on voltage sense.

I would go method 2, since the tach source is even reliable from canbus units, they have a slight delay. if you do option 2, it wont grind anyways because the truck has an antigrind circuit built in.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

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yes that is correct.

you have 2 options.

1) connect idatalink tach output to viper tach input
2) run it on voltage sense.

I would go method 2, since the tach source is even reliable from canbus units, they have a slight delay. if you do option 2, it wont grind anyways because the truck has an antigrind circuit built in.

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Does this delay ever cause any issues?  If so, what would you notice?

well on cars that do not have an antigrind circuit built in, the starter will grind for a few miliseconds, but on this truck you do not have to worry.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

due to not having a garage, i had to wait to work on my truck. the weather was nice enough to put this thing in. soldered everything up. programmed from manual to auto trans, programmed the tach, programmed the bypass. have it wired from the 5901 to the tach wire behind the dash.

press the remote start button, the truck turns over 3 times, but doesnt stay running.

ideas?

armed the truck turns over 3 times, and that is it.
UNarmed, unlocked, press the remote start and it fires right over. :/

according to the bypass paperwork, the light on the module should flash during R/S.

the light doesnt come on when the truck is armed.
the light flashes when the truck in unlocked/unarmed during R/S like it is supposed to.

leD off
invalid ground
when running
status from r.s.

i have the blue/white wire(-ground out when running) on the bypass soldered to the orange wire (ground when armed out put)

you will want that on one of the status wires of the remote start ether the blue/white(2nd status or defroster) or the blue one of the remote starter output harness 5- pin

the ground when running from bypass should be connected to the status output of the viper unit. sometimes the status wire is also labeled as defogger output.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

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the ground when running from bypass should be connected to the status output of the viper unit. sometimes the status wire is also labeled as defogger output.

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gotcha! so the blue/white from the bypass to the dark blue h2/10 on the viper.

Thanks monty and ted, this thing is almost wrapped up! lol

appreciate all of the help ive gotten from you guys on here, been great!
thanks a lot, Matt

got the wire switched around, and it works like it should! just have to wait til tomorrow to get everything tucked away and buttoned up.

again, thanks to the guys that helped out, youre awesome!

Matt

darn you monty ahah, you always post 1 minute earlier!

as im writing a post, you finished ahah.

well good to know you have it working. thanks for the pm, and you're welcome.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert