12v power distribution?
Printed From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=119905
Printed Date: May 29, 2024 at 3:26 PM
Topic: 12v power distribution?
Posted By: shafferny
Subject: 12v power distribution?
Date Posted: February 04, 2010 at 3:22 PM
Replies:
Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: February 04, 2010 at 3:44 PM
Posted By: shafferny
Date Posted: February 04, 2010 at 4:49 PM
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: February 04, 2010 at 5:04 PM
Posted By: shafferny
Date Posted: February 04, 2010 at 5:11 PM
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: February 04, 2010 at 5:35 PM
Posted By: shafferny
Date Posted: February 04, 2010 at 5:41 PM
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: February 04, 2010 at 6:12 PM
Posted By: shafferny
Date Posted: February 04, 2010 at 6:31 PM
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: February 04, 2010 at 6:55 PM
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: February 04, 2010 at 6:56 PM
Posted By: shafferny
Date Posted: February 05, 2010 at 6:13 AM
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: February 05, 2010 at 7:43 AM
Excellent choice!
Below are 2 common ones that I use.
The BP types are aka "Acorns" and are usually used in AC mains situations and hence have largish holes. I like their twin screw versions for redundancy.
I usually use them as a cable end termination or for joining cables into "one end", though they can also be used as a through-connector buy filing the plastic end off - if it exists. (It's hard plastic - it shatters if cut.)
(Thanks to Jaycar!)
The others are typical Terminal Strips that can be broken into singles etc and come in various sizes. Also often used in AC mains applications.
My last use was for my dual/aux battery installation where I used the biggest commonly available 60A rated terminal strip onto which I could mount a 50A circuit breaker.
I could also daisy-chain cable from one to another for individually terminated wires to the battery, or Anderson plugs, or other parallel connections (though this is usually done for the common negative aka ground connections).
You might daisy chain using wire or a paper clip segment etc for easy individual termination of wires, though be careful if too thin wires strands that break easily, or worse still, wiggle into the gaps next to the screws and pull out it your are lucky, else form a bad contact that overheats etc. IE - it's better to twist smaller wires to fill the terminal-strip's conductor hole for a good solid and tight termination.
(Again, Thanks to Jaycar!)
I use a plug/socket version of the above terminal strips for my car speakers.
IE - under my seats, I use them as a quick-disconnect for the headrest-internal speakers, as well as being able to easily change phasing or impedance (ie, series or parallel as the rear speakers).
And unless rigidly mounted to something (ha! they are almost always floating!) I will usually run electrical tap around their plastic top & bottom to ensure no extrusions or hair or nose clips can short a screw terminal to something.
The wires themselves should only be bared for the terminal sleeve.
If the wire conductors are thin enough, I strip them full sleeve length so each and overlaps and has 2 screws. Otherwise it's only 1/2-sleeved bared and only gets one screw. (But I might fled the wire end for extra grip thickness.)
And if breaking of to whatever length, I will usually allow a couple as spare, and often leave an empty between +ve & ground sides.
And ALWAYS tighten the screws in the empty ones - those bricks escape that first chance they get!
[Question - what are the chances an escaping screw happens to wedge between 2 exposed conductors? ((Ans: IMO, the probability is 1; nothing less!)) ]
And with any screw terminal - as with hose clamps etc - check them now and again for loosening - whether shrunk rubber hoses, or conductors suffering plastic (LOL!) deformation, or screws simply backing off.
Geez, that's a long "congratulations" on an a excellent choice!
I was only going to add that maybe someone will yet suggest some beautiful looking connector....
Below are 2 common ones that I use.
The BP types are aka "Acorns" and are usually used in AC mains situations and hence have largish holes. I like their twin screw versions for redundancy.
I usually use them as a cable end termination or for joining cables into "one end", though they can also be used as a through-connector buy filing the plastic end off - if it exists. (It's hard plastic - it shatters if cut.)
(Thanks to Jaycar!)
The others are typical Terminal Strips that can be broken into singles etc and come in various sizes. Also often used in AC mains applications.
My last use was for my dual/aux battery installation where I used the biggest commonly available 60A rated terminal strip onto which I could mount a 50A circuit breaker.
I could also daisy-chain cable from one to another for individually terminated wires to the battery, or Anderson plugs, or other parallel connections (though this is usually done for the common negative aka ground connections).
You might daisy chain using wire or a paper clip segment etc for easy individual termination of wires, though be careful if too thin wires strands that break easily, or worse still, wiggle into the gaps next to the screws and pull out it your are lucky, else form a bad contact that overheats etc. IE - it's better to twist smaller wires to fill the terminal-strip's conductor hole for a good solid and tight termination.
(Again, Thanks to Jaycar!)
I use a plug/socket version of the above terminal strips for my car speakers.
IE - under my seats, I use them as a quick-disconnect for the headrest-internal speakers, as well as being able to easily change phasing or impedance (ie, series or parallel as the rear speakers).
And unless rigidly mounted to something (ha! they are almost always floating!) I will usually run electrical tap around their plastic top & bottom to ensure no extrusions or hair or nose clips can short a screw terminal to something.
The wires themselves should only be bared for the terminal sleeve.
If the wire conductors are thin enough, I strip them full sleeve length so each and overlaps and has 2 screws. Otherwise it's only 1/2-sleeved bared and only gets one screw. (But I might fled the wire end for extra grip thickness.)
And if breaking of to whatever length, I will usually allow a couple as spare, and often leave an empty between +ve & ground sides.
And ALWAYS tighten the screws in the empty ones - those bricks escape that first chance they get!
[Question - what are the chances an escaping screw happens to wedge between 2 exposed conductors? ((Ans: IMO, the probability is 1; nothing less!)) ]
And with any screw terminal - as with hose clamps etc - check them now and again for loosening - whether shrunk rubber hoses, or conductors suffering plastic (LOL!) deformation, or screws simply backing off.
Geez, that's a long "congratulations" on an a excellent choice!
I was only going to add that maybe someone will yet suggest some beautiful looking connector....
Posted By: shafferny
Date Posted: February 06, 2010 at 5:02 PM
Posted By: jetblue
Date Posted: February 07, 2010 at 9:40 PM
Shafferny, good news for you (I think). I was looking for something similar as well and happened to find something at Lowes that should work for me and you as well. I found them in the electrical supply aisle and they are called Push-In Connectors and they are made by Ideal Industries
I picked up a variety 10 pack that handles 12-18 gauge wire and has two each of 2, 3, 4 & 5 hole connectors. I like that you can use a jewelers screwdriver to unsnap the plastic covers on these and help get the wires neatly seated (especially the smaller wires that tend to bend and crumple rather than push in nicely). I plan on going through the extra step of adding solder inside the metal pieces that hold the wires to ensure a good connection. Snap the plastic shell back on and you're good to go. Their only downfall is that they don't have an attachment point to screw them into a spot under the dash or wherever you want them. A good drop of epoxy or superglue ought to help out with that.
Good luck.
-------------
=\
-------
=/