security, remote start, 1999 4runner

Hey guys, It's been a while since I've been on here. I've done a search and can't find anything. I have a 1999 Toyota 4runner with a aftermarket pioneer cd receiver. I recently purchased the Clifford 50.7x 2-way security with remote start. While I'm installing this all I want to wire up an amp and sub I also purchased. I'm more familiar with the amp and sub setup as I've done one before. I was wondering if anyone knew of a good write up on a security/remote start in a 99 4runner or if anyone has any tips and instructions. Any help will greatly be appreciated!!

*I'm not sure if I have the factory security system because I do have the interface on the dash that says "toyota security" and there are "vip" stickers on the windows, but I was not able to locate the brian unit for the security under the driver seat.

I also purchased the PKALL transponder bypass module just in case I need it. Some shops told me I need it and some told me I don't. Thanks again!!

Toyota 4Runner 1999
WIRE COLOR LOCATION POL.
Battery 1 WHITE/ Red Ignition Harness Positive
Battery 2 White Ignition Harness Positive
Ignition 1 BLACK/ Red Ignition Harness Positive
Starter 1 GREEN/ Black Ignition Harness Positive
Accessory 1 BLACK / YELLOW Ignition Harness Positive
Parklights Positive Green (5) Driver's Running Board Positive
Brake Lights GREEN / WHITE Driver's Running Board Positive
Horn Dk.GREEN/ Red 23 White pin plug in Fuse Box Negative
Tach IG Plug (-) terminal Diag. Plug left side of Engine
Lock BROWN / White Driver's Kick Panel Negative
Unlock Blue/Black & RED / Blue (1) Driver's Kick Panel Negative
Trunk Manual release
E-Brake GREEN / WHITE At Parking Brake Switch Negative
Clutch BLACK/ White At Clutch Switch (4) Positive
OEM Hood Switch GREEN/ Orange At Anti-Theft Module (3) Negative
Disarm Disarms with unlock wires (2)
Rearming Arms with lock wire
Dome Sensor Lt.GREEN/ Black (6) Driver's Side Pillar Negative
KeySense Yellow/Red Ignition Harness Negative
Door Pin FL Black Driver's Kick Panel Negative
Door Pin RL BLACK/ Red Driver's Kick Panel Negative
Door Pin FR BLACK/ White Driver's Kick Panel Negative
Door Pin RR BLACK/ Red Driver's Kick Panel Negative
BCM WakeUp RED / Yellow Driver's Kick Panel
VSS WHITE/ Red At PCM Module (Pin 26)
Back Door pin GREEN / WHITE Driver's Kick Panel Negative
IM/OM Compatibility
- OM-Toyota-1 (310-907-513) - OM-CUT-II (310-908-500) - OM-CUT-3 (310-907-516) - 555X(W) - CANMAX400 - TOYOTA2
- CANMAX400 - TOYOTA2 - PKALL - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Comments :
NOTE : This car is equiped with a Transponder that need to be bypass.
(1) Both wires must be connected and isolated with 2 IN4001 diodes. This wire will require 2 pulses to unlock the doors.
(2) To Disarm for Remote Start, send a ground while running on the keysensor wire, that will Disarm.
(3) GREEN/ Orange, Pin # B8, At the Anti-Theft Module which is Located on Driver Side or under the dash in the harness coming from the firewall.
See picture for more information
(4) Connect the Remote Starter Wire directly on the BLACK/ White , for your " Clutch Bypass " instead of at the Ignition Switch.
(5) May need a pulse after on the Driver's Door Pin to shut down the Auto Light Feature.
(6) Driver's door pin is a Black (-) in Driver's Kick Panel.

Found the factory security RS3000. It was mounted under the dash.

Monte_77- does that wire/color/location tell me which wires to connect to which. Ex. Which wires from the 4runner to connect to the clifford security system wires. THanks

those are the wires colors on the vehicle u will have to match them to the alarm/RS

Hey guys, I began my installation after receiving some help here about wiring. Now I connected majority of the wires according to my vswd crib sheet and using the installation manual for the clifford 50.7x. I'm installing my security/remote start into a 1999 toyota 4runner. The reason for all my confusion is because I think the previous owner had his own aftermarket security system and alot of the wiring is in different places. Here is what I connected so far and the ones with a question mark are the ones I need to get help with.

Harness # ~ Color ~ wire location in vehicle ~ Vehicle wire
H1/1 ~ RED / white ~ not connected ~ n/c
H1/2 ~ Red ~ Ignition harness ~ White
H1/3 ~ Brown ~ red wire of the siren, fed the wire through firewall grommet
     ?? H1/4 ~ WHITE/ Brown ~ ??
H1/5 ~ Black ~ Driver side kick panel ground
     ?? H1/6 ~violet ~ ?? (do i need to connect this?)
H1/7 ~ Blue ~ N/C
H1/8 ~ Green ~ driver side Kick panel ~ Light GREEN/ black (-)
      ?? H1/9 ~ BLACK/ white ~ ??
H1/10 ~ WHITE/ Blue ~ N/C
H1/11 ~ White ~    set to negative
      ?? H1/12 ~ Orage ~ ??

H2/1 ~ Light GREEN/ black
H2/2 ~ light GREEN / WHITE
H2/3 ~ WHITE/ Violet
H2/4 ~ Violet/black
H2/5 ~ WHITE/ black
H2/6 ~ light blue
H2/7 ~ gray/black
H2/8 ~ BROWN / black ~ Steering Column ~ GREEN/ red (-)

H3/1 ~ Pink ~ Ignition harness ~ BLACK / YELLOW
H3/2 ~ RED / white ~ ignition harness ~ BLACK/ red
H3/3 ~ Orange ~ ignition harness ~ Blue/red
H3/4 ~Violet ~Ignition harness ~ GREEN/ black (starter side)
H3/5 ~ Green ~ ignition harness ~ GREEN/ black (Ignition switch side)
H3/6 ~ Red ~ Ignition harness ~ White (constant 12v)
        ?? H3/7 ~ pink.white ~ ??
        ?? H3/8 ~pink/black ~ ??
H3/9 ~ RED / black ~ Ignition harness ~ WHITE/ red (constant 12v)

Remote Start Input
1 ~ BLACK/ white ~ Grounded in driver side kickpanel
2 ~ Violet/white ~ Engine Compartment Diagnostic plug (tapped into the black wire for tach)
3 ~ Brown ~ driver door sill ~ GREEN / WHITE (+)
4 ~ Gray ~ Hood pin Engine bay ~ Wired through firewall grommet and attached to the supplied wire connector to hoodpin switch
    ?? 5 ~ blue/white ~ ???

Remote Start Output (Do i need to connect any of these if I don't have any additional modules, sensors, or accessories?)
1 ~ Pink/white
2 ~ Orange
3 ~ Violet
4 ~ Pink
      ?? 5 ~ Blue ~ ?? ( Where do I connect this?)

Doorlock wires (How do I wire this up??)
( I have a type B door lock according to the vswd. 3-wire (-) pulse controlling factory lock relays.)
1 ~ blue
2 ~ empty
3 ~ Green

Additionally, I'm trying to find the "CLK, DATA, SYNCHRO, GROUND, KEY SENSE" wires for the XpressKit PKALL. (Data immobilizer override)
- In the install manual for the PKALL, it says
CLK - RED / Black
Data - gray/red
Synchro - pink/black
Ground - Brown
Key Sense - Yellow/red
I think I found some of these but I'm not sure if it's correct. Please tell me where I can find these wires and how to connect them.

Also the Blue/White from the PKALL, where does this connect to?

Please help and Thank you for taking the time to read this!!!

anybody?

Hey guys, I went back into the garage to finish this thing up and was hoping I would have some feedback by now.

I determined that because I don't have any other wires beside the power and ground for the key ring illuminator that I do not have a immobilizer on my 4runner. But before I can test the remote start operation, I need to figure out one problem:

I took H1/8 and connected it to the door trigger wire (GREEN/ Black Driver kick panel) and also the Black front driver side door pin wire. I diode isolated them with the stripe towards the vehicle. I know I have to connect the other door pin wires as well but when I initially test the function of the door trigger I don't get any alarm. Meaning, I can arm the security, unlock the front door manually through the open window and open the door, and i get NO ALARM. What further confuses me is that I set the impact sensor to the most sensitive and shake the car and I get NO ALARM! The only thing that has triggered it so far was opening the hood. (hood pin switch)

In order to remote start I need to get this door trigger working so that I can get the system into programming mode and change the default Manual Transmission Start to Automatic Transmission Start. Therefore I get the 7 light flashes when I get the error message.

ALSO, when disarming the security with the door open, I get three parking light flashes. instead of 2. I get the regular 2 flash disarm when the door is closed. Can someone PLEASE HELP ME!!!!


Clifford 50.7x security/remote start in a 1999 Toyota 4runner sr5.

your door pins are listed below. where are you getting the GREEN/ black?


Door Pin FL Black
Door Pin RL BLACK/ Red
Door Pin FR BLACK/ White
Door Pin RR BLACK/ Red

don't shake the car slap it. its a shock sensor not a tilt sensor

with the diode in the door pin wire does the dome light still come on if not you have the diode in backwards.

ok it the dome light supervision for the GREEN/ black lose that connection for the door trigger it might be finding a ground a the alarm is ignoring the wire because it is all ready triggered when armed

Off the top of my head the shock sensor won't go off if you SHAKE the car its an impact sensor you need to impact the vehicle with your hand or fist (don't punch the car that will hurt your hand). Did you test your door triggers to make sure you have the right wires? They should test negative when the doors are open. To program the unit you can simply ground the door trigger and program it. To make sure you have the diodes placed correctly test the wires with the diodes in place you should get a neg when the door is open.

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The GREEN/ blk wire is coming from the same harness as the door pins. In the VSWD it says that that is the door trigger wire for the vehicle. I slapped it and banged on it and still no alarm goes off. I need to go back out and test to see if the diodes are backwards but I highly doubt it.

The weird thing is, When I arm the system, it chirps once with the parking light flash, then it chirps again a few seconds later without the light flash. And a few seconds after that on the remote, it says that a door is open when there is no door open. Any ideas?

you are getting a ground on the door trigger wire of the alarm and it is ignoring that signal and giving you a waring letting you know that the door is till open.

where did you mount the shock sensor and to what?

i found the best to be a wire harness near the center of the dash

How can I fix that?

A buddy suggested that I just take all door pin wires and the door trigger wire and connect it to the Door trigger input on the security side. I want to avoid that and do it the right way.

first thing i would do is disconnect the GREEN/ black and just use the black one for a test

To fix the door trigger you either have the wrong wire on the vehicle or the wrong wire on the alarm. Did you test the wires with a DMM or a test light? The wiring diagrams are only a reference you should TEST ALL of your wires.

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Initially I only had the GREEN/ blk trigger from the vehicle to the green of the security and that wasn't working. I then connected just the black driver front door pin to the green wire of the security and that didn't work (diode isolated) And then I connected both the door trigger and the door pin wires to the green wire of the security and its still not working.

I did test the wire with a DMM and it read 1 on the ohms when the door was open and some positive value when the door was closed. Same type of reading when I had the DMM set for voltage but when the door was closed it was near 12v and when it was open it was 0.

Any other trouble shooting ideas?

have you tried to ground just the green wire to a ground source while armed to see if it goes off

No I haven't. I'll probably have to go back out tomorrow and work on it since it is already late and I don't want to wake the neighbors if I trigger the alarm. How should I wire this up properly? I'm most likely going to end up taking all the door pin wires and door trigger wire, and the green wire from the security system and try to wire it up again after I try your suggestion of grounding the green wire while armed.

Can Anyone explain why the alarm doesn't go off when I impact the body of the vehicle?!

When you go to do your checks, arm the system and tap on the control module directly and see what happens!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Hey guys, So I finally figured out all the door trigger wires!! Alarm triggers when any of the doors open! However, one of the rear doors is acting up. The dome light doesn't turn on when one of the rear doors are open which means it doesn't trigger the alarm. I tried following the wire back to the harness and there is nothing disconnected. I tried testing the wires for polarity and it is (+12volts) when the door is closed and it is grounded when open. I unbolted the "pin" and it didn't seem like anything was wrong. Can anyone help me figure this out.

My next problem is due to my inability to comprehend instructions on manuals. I want to RESET the remote controls to the DEFAULT settings because I messed around with it not knowing anything and I don't know what features I turned on or off etc.

The next thing after resetting the remote that I want to be able to do is Change the SYSTEM to "AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION START" from the defaulted "Manual Transmission Start" I tried following the instructions on the install manual but I'm not getting something, so if anyone can explain it to me in a more detailed way that'll be great! Once that's done and the HOPEFULLY the remote start works properly right off the bat, then all I have to do is gather all the wires and mount the system and put everything back!! I feel so close yet kinda far from being done with this project. Thanks to all of you who've helped so far and thank you to those of you about to chime in your advice!

I got the system to be programmed for Auto trans mode and now the remote start engages. However, I didn't use the PKALL bypass because I was convinced that I don't have an immobilizer system. When I press the remote start button, it acknowledges it and the parking lights flash once and then the engine cranks. It cranks for a few seconds then stops and on the remote it says that its remote started. But the engine never turns over and never turns on, just cranks. Then I just press the remote start button again to "shut it down"

Can anyone tell me how to get the car to start?! Do I need to use the PKALL afterall? If so where the heck is the immobilizer harness because I though it was supposed to be on the key hole ring halo and I don't see anything that suggests a immobilizer. Could it possibly be that the factory rs3000 system has the immobilizer built into it?

put the key in the cylinder and leave it in the off position and try to remote start it if it runs then you have a transponder in the key and need the bypass.

if it doesn't start then you might have some thing wired wrong

Check the key in ignition(monty) and then check your connections at the ignition harness...2nd ignition,etc...!

	Battery		WHITE		(+)		OR WHT/RED IGN. HARNESS
	Ignition 1		BLACK / YELLOW		(+)		IGN. HARNESS
	Ignition 2		BLACK/ RED		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Starter 1		GREEN/ BLACK		(+)		OR GRN IGN. HARNESS
	Anti-Theft Type		RF ACTIVATED SYS.
	Anti-Theft Descript		TRANSPONDER
	Tachometer		BLACK		(AC)		AT DIAG. CONN. OR AT IGNITOR(PASS. FEND.
	Speed Sense		GREEN/ ORANGE		(AC)		PIN 8 AT ECM OR PIN 1 BEHIND INST CLUSTE
	Parking Lights		GREEN		(+)		AT LIGHT SWITCH
	Brake Lights		GREEN / WHITE		(+)		AT SWITCH
	Reverse Lights		RED / YELLOW		(+)		IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL TO REAR
	Horn		GREEN/ RED		(-)		STEERING COLUMN HARNESS

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

I checked the key in the ignition for remote start. I inserted the key in the "off" position and tried to remote start it. Cranks the same as if when I attempted it without the key in the cylinder. I don't have any time to go back in and check the wires for the next couple of days, so I will have to get back at it in a few days. Does anyone have an idea of which wire might be the problem? The system acknowledges the remote start and the vehicle cranks for a short amount of time (enough for it to usually start if started normally with a key) but it doesn't fire up. The remote says "start" and thinks its started. Then I just press the Remote start button again to "shut it off" Thanks guys.

Special thanks to monty_77 for helping me through this whole process!

Crank and no start usually means IGN 1 problems. The Ignition system and or the fuel pump is not turning on .

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sneakycyber, If it is IGN 1 problems, can you recommend which wire I'm supposed to connect Pink H3/1 wire to? I might have hooked it up to the wrong wire. Could you specify where and which wire I should connect it to. I'm going to trouble shoot this one wire at a time until I get it. Hopefully this first step takes care of it! Thanks

Interesting to note, I pressed the remote start button today just to see if it'll work by any chance and it didn't ofcourse. But the parking lights flashed 4 times afterwards. I was wondering if that is a diagnostic signal for something. Does anyone know? I looked in the manual and it says about LED flashes and only 5-8 parking light flashed for diagnostics.

Also for the shock sensor levels, is it the higher the number the more sensitive? I thought this thing would be really sensitive if I set it to the highest number and it doesn't seem to trigger unless i really slap the car hard!

Yes the higher the number the more sensitive it is. Did you ground the neutral safety wire and connect the on/off switch? These MUST BE CONNECTED if not the unit will not start even if its set for automatic mode.

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According to my wiring guide its a BLACK / YELLOW wire but test it with a DMM it should be 12v+ in the run positing and DURING crank it should test 12v- or off in the ACC position. This wire runs the ignition system and the fuel pump. Did you run a Tach wire? IS it programmed for tac or tacless?

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I connected the tach wire to the diagnostic port in the engine compartment. I'm 80% sure I grounded the neutral safety wire and the on/off switch. I can faintly recall connecting it to a BLACK / YELLOW wire but it might have been in the wrong side of the harness or something. I'll have to go back and check these things. Do you know anything about the 4 flashes after i attempt the remote start tho?