remote start bypass module for gm

I purchased an RS-665 Autopage Remote Start for my wife's car which will be delivered today. The part I don't have yet is the bypass module which I've been unable to get information on purchasing. Autopage links to idatalink.com as their recommended bypass module. I selected my car in their support menu and it lists about 11 different possible choices. It looks like I should be using one of the following but they all appear to do the same functions:

ADS-ALSL GM
ADS-DLSL GM
ADS-DLSL GM1

I've tried emailing and calling them to get an answer but no one ever picks up and no one returns my messages. This isn't rocket science, it's basic wiring and communications to perform functions the car already has in place. So why is this portion so difficult?

Car is a 2004 Grand Prix GT automatic, Autopage RS-665 remote start. I have the wiring pinouts here all ready to go except for this bypass. I have installed stereos, and a couple of alarms in the past so this isn't new to me but the bypass module is. Can anyone tell me the difference between the three modules above or give me an alternative? Can I order these direct from their site? All the bypass module websites look like fly-by-night setups... Giving my money away shouldn't be this hard. :o)

Thanks!

I should have also posted that I'm looking for a bypass module that doesn't use the spare key. These modules appear to communicate on the serial data line in the car which would be ideal. The less wires, the better!

the all so the same thing for your car alsl is more for shops that don't want to carry a lot of bypasses on hand and can be flashed with multiple different vehicles.

as for what you need i would go with the cheapest one and get the
ads-dlsl-gm1 is a bypass programed with the right firmware for your vehicle.

Thank you! Just added it to cart and it's $64 for the module and $39 to ship it.... FAIL. Their resellers all appear to be selling to dealers only.... this just got a LOT more expensive. More money for the bypass than the remote start.

Seach for it on eBay or the web u will find it cheaper somewhere else

iDatalink makes excellent products, so your choice is good.  The more the bypass module does for you the less wires you have to locate and connect to in the car, as most of the connections will be between the R/S and the bypass module.

Basically cost and availability will be your main factors.  Most companies will only sell to authorized dealers in quanities.  They prefer not to be involved with one item sales and end users.

The big issue you have is that most of the iDatalink modules come with no firmware loaded.  It is up to the installer to load the correct firmware for their application.  While the firmware is a free download from the Web site, there is a special USB cable required to load ( flash) the firmware onto the bypass module that attaches to your PC.  The USB cable costs around $50.

I believe the ADS DLSL GM1 module comes already loaded with the correct firmware and should be ready to go out of the box.  I am not too familiar with the Solo series.  I use the Multi series products that allow greater application flexibility and would use a ADS DL flashed with the ADS DL GM1 firmare.  You might be able to buy one from a local remote start installer or Best Buy.  EBay is another place to try and I have seen auctions where the seller is willing to flash the module for you prior to shipment.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you all very much. This forum moves a lot faster than I expected! Checked ebay and only found one for Chrysler. May need to check local shops next. Last resort I'll buy direct but that seems steep...

Here are a few sites i found just goggling

ebay

millionbuy

google search page

Look for Pats-GM module

Finally found one. It's an ADS DLSL-GM. I purchased it from autotoys and they claim to flash the module before they ship it out. Decent price as well. Can't wait to get this installed!

If they flashed it with the ADS DLSL GM1 firmware, you should be all set.  Just download the correct guide and follow the Type 3 install.  Don't forget to set the Installation Mode as described on page 8 before programming it to the car.

Good luck!

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks! It seems pretty straightforward now. I just need to figure out the connections between the remote start and the bypass module as far as negative or positive input triggers. I'm planning on not hooking up the shock sensor and the LED of the remote start since they are both on their own harness and the car has a factory alarm installed already. If they want the car that bad, they can have it!

Couple other things running through my head. I assume the process to start the car goes like this:
1. Press start button on remote.
2. Autopage remote start receives signal and sends unlock and disarm signals to bypass module.
3. Bypass module sends "key present" signal down the data bus from the programmed learned key code(?) when starting the car with the key.
4. Remote start then fires the ignition signal and since the data bus confirms the key is there, the car starts up and runs.
5. Tach wire tells remote start the car is running.

Is there a delay when you press the start button to when the car actually starts so the bypass module can communicate with the car to let it know it's good to go?

I was originally planning on tapping into everything at the BCM but after seeing the wire gauge on the remote start for the ignition circuit, I'm thinking I may tap in at the ignition harness on the dash. I haven't pulled the cover for the BCM yet but I imagine the wire gauges in there are pretty small.

I really hope the module comes programmed correctly. All the theory behind the install makes perfect sense, it's just the implementation and making it clean that worries me. :o)

Looks like the idataLink is expecting a + ignition input as well. Ignition input from what? I assume that's the same connection that the remote starter is outputting?

Are the power and ground leads for the bypass typically tied right into the same power and ground feeding the remote start?

Sorry for all the questions! Want to make sure I'm not missing anything. :o)

On most R/S units the sequence is pretty much the same.  Yes, there is a delay between the remote button being pressed and the engine cranking.

Unless directed otherwise, the IGN input to the Bypass comes from the IGN wire at the ignition switch.  Of course you can connect it to the IGN1 output of the R/S if that wire is already connected to the cars IGN1wire at the ignition switch.  They are connected and therefore one & same.

Most R/S units have a dedicated connector with +12v, ground and (-) Status or GWR signals just for the bypass unit.  If yours doesn't, then you can tap into the R/S's +12v & ground wires that are attached to the car and connect the (-) Status to the correct wire on the R/S.

I would "hard wire" all the connections between the R/S and the iDatalink module instead of using the iDatalink connection. Its more reliable. That means making all the connections between the 2 modules that are in dashes on the Type 3 install guide and setting the bypass module to Standard Mode.  The polarity of the signals that the bypass module is expecting (black) or outputting (red) is marked in the guide.

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Soldering is fun!

idatalink module arrived last night. I had no idea they were the size of a credit card... I think I'm ready to install now with two last questions.

I'm going to tap into the ignition switch rather than the BCM but power needs to come from the fuseblock I assume. I'd prefer to not tap into an existing power wire coming in from the engine bay. Where do you typically make the power connection for remote starts? At the fuseblock? Do you generally tap into a power lead or try to find an empty socket to tap into?

Last question, I took a look at the leads coming out of the remote start to the ignition switch and they're faily beefy with a 40 amp fuse. I'm assuming that since this cars ignition switch feeds the BCM and PCM, this isn't a high current circuit but rather feeds a relay in the BCM to actually start the car. Seeing the 40 amp circuit and thinking about that running into the BCM worries me a little. Is this so that the remote start would also work if it was installed into a different vehicle that used the older solenoid to start wiring? 40 amps into a BCM or PCM just weirds me out....

Thanks!

The +12 volt power for the R/S should come from the Red wire at the back of the fuse box.  The fuse box is under the dash on the passanger side.  You might have to extend the R/S's power wires to reach it.

The other wires ( Start, IGN, ACC ) you will get at the ignition switch.  Most R/S units only fuse the power inputs, and the parking light & the horn outputs.  It is safe to connect the heavy gauge R/S wires to the smaller gauge ignition wires in the car.  ( If your R/S fuses the Ignition outputs and it causes you concern, you could replace those fuses with a smaller rated amperage if the ignition wire it attaches to is thin gauge.)  While most of the older cars had heavy gauge ignition wires, a lot of the newer cars are going to thin gauge ignition wires. 

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Soldering is fun!