2007 Toyota Camry, Remote Start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=121524
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 6:00 AM
Topic: 2007 Toyota Camry, Remote Start
Posted By: accordexxx
Subject: 2007 Toyota Camry, Remote Start
Date Posted: April 26, 2010 at 3:59 AM
Hi guys I was looking at the wiring digram on the 07 camry and noticed that there are:
2 igniton wires
1 accessory
And 2 starter wires.
I'm installing a viper 5501 rs and when looking at the manual, I can only figure out:
2 igniton wires (2nd one is the flex relay wire output that can be used as either 2nd igniton, 2nd starter or 2nd accessory)
1 accessory
And only 1 starter?
I need two but from what I can tell there is only one? How do I connect the second starter? Would I just connect the 2 starter wires to the single output from the remote start? I don't think this is the correct way of doing it :s, please help :)
Also another question is, I have relays for the trunk release and I know how to wire it up if the trunk release is a negative wire, but how do I wire my relay up for a positive wire ?
And a quick question to what the polarity feed is, does it just determine the polarity of the output wires? Eg if the polarity feed for the igniton is connected to a +12, it will give off +12v to the ignition wire? Its sort of confusing me.
Thanks!!
Replies:
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: April 26, 2010 at 5:30 AM
Your car needs 2 Starter wires. They should not be wired together with the one R/S Starter output. Take a look at this DIY guide from Directed. It has a lot of good info for wire checking, etc. Page 20 shows how they recommend creating two Starter outputs from the one. https://www.designtech-intl.com/pdf/manuals/24923.pdf Your trunk release is actually (rev) type. This link will give you info on how to wire up your relay. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=88389&KW=alexlloyd Not sure on your question about polarity feed. If you need basic info on relays, this site has a good primer. Just click on "Relays" at the upper section of the page. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: April 26, 2010 at 8:25 AM
When instructions tell you polarity, this is the output of the wire unless it states "input" then that wire requires an input from the vehicle or another device. You have to read the instructions carefully and make sure that you know if it's an input or output.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: accordexxx
Date Posted: April 26, 2010 at 11:22 AM
kreg357 wrote:
Your car needs 2 Starter wires. They should not be wired together with the one R/S Starter output. Take a look at this DIY guide from Directed. It has a lot of good info for wire checking, etc. Page 20 shows how they recommend creating two Starter outputs from the one. https://www.designtech-intl.com/pdf/manuals/24923.pdf
Your trunk release is actually (rev) type. This link will give you info on how to wire up your relay. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=88389&KW=alexlloyd
Not sure on your question about polarity feed. If you need basic info on relays, this site has a good primer. Just click on "Relays" at the upper section of the page.
ah thanks ! so if i read it correctly, i need to cut my trunk release wire? Assuming its done correctly, the remote starter trunk release will work, but what about the oem key fob ? since the wire is cut in two.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: April 26, 2010 at 6:57 PM
Should continue to work just fine. In the "at rest" state, the relay has a connection between pins 30 and 87A. That will allow the cars trunk pop signal thru with no impact.
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Soldering is fun!
Posted By: accordexxx
Date Posted: April 26, 2010 at 8:43 PM
kreg357 wrote:
Should continue to work just fine. In the "at rest" state, the relay has a connection between pins 30 and 87A. That will allow the cars trunk pop signal thru with no impact.
Thanks a lot !
Time to get this 2nd starter wire figured out.
Posted By: accordexxx
Date Posted: April 26, 2010 at 10:30 PM
Hey I seen in the manual you posted that it used two relays triggered by the original single starter output.
I was taking a look and was wondering if the
"H2/13 PURPLE (-)200mA starter output" would work with the relay, it would definitely save me a relay that I could use for my trunk release.
Posted By: accordexxx
Date Posted: April 26, 2010 at 11:49 PM
Does the camry need the keysense wire?
and also should I be hooking up my by pass module to the :
(-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT
or the
(-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: April 27, 2010 at 7:32 AM
Yes, use the H2/13 output to trigger a relay to provide a isolated, high current, second Start output for the cars needs. Keysense is usually only required if the car has the factory alarm. If you are not using the R/S's Defrogger output for the defogger, then program it for (-) 2nd Status and use it for Keysense. Use the (-) Status Output for the bypass. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: accordexxx
Date Posted: April 27, 2010 at 4:39 PM
kreg357 wrote:
Yes, use the H2/13 output to trigger a relay to provide a isolated, high current, second Start output for the cars needs.
Keysense is usually only required if the car has the factory alarm. If you are not using the R/S's Defrogger output for the defogger, then program it for (-) 2nd Status and use it for Keysense.
Use the (-) Status Output for the bypass.
Perfect ! Thanks a lot !
cheers
Posted By: accordexxx
Date Posted: May 02, 2010 at 11:57 PM
Got everything working except ...
the defroster wire, does anyone know which wire it is?
and I cant seem to get the unlock to work, it requries a double pulse but even if I press it twice it still doesnt work.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: May 03, 2010 at 6:11 AM
You want to double check the cars unlock wire you connected the R/S to. A single pulse will unlock just the drivers door, the second pulse within 3 seconds will unlock the rest of the doors. It should be a Gray wire in the drivers kick panel. Test with a DMM for a (-) pulse when turning the the key in the drivers door.
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Soldering is fun!
Posted By: accordexxx
Date Posted: May 03, 2010 at 2:25 PM
Hey, I got the lock wire to work, and I looked in the same bunch of wires and found the grey wire which I assumed was the unlock.
I tested with a 12volt test light while turning the key in the keyhole in the drivers door.
The unlock wire at rest gives off a ground, and when I unlock with the key, it gives off a +12v pulse (Light is on when connected, but when unlock, the light goes off and back on).
Is this normal on the camry's? The rs on the camry was a pain in the *** !!! everything was 10x more complicated than my honda
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: May 03, 2010 at 7:27 PM
To test for a (-) signal with a DMM, set it for 20 VDC. Attach the red lead to a good constant +12v source. Probe with the black lead. A ground signal will show +12v on the DMM. The UnLock wire with a unlock pulse should test the same as the Lock wire with a lock pulse. Your car is Type B (-) locks. AudioVox says the Unlock wire could be Green. Also, there could be a Violet wire there that will unlock all doors with just one unlock pulse. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: accordexxx
Date Posted: May 03, 2010 at 9:37 PM
kreg357 wrote:
To test for a (-) signal with a DMM, set it for 20 VDC. Attach the red lead to a good constant +12v source. Probe with the black lead. A ground signal will show +12v on the DMM. The UnLock wire with a unlock pulse should test the same as the Lock wire with a lock pulse. Your car is Type B (-) locks.
AudioVox says the Unlock wire could be Green. Also, there could be a Violet wire there that will unlock all doors with just one unlock pulse.
Hm also checked with a DMM, when I touched the black lead to the wire, it showed up as +12v, and when the key was turned (unlock), it jumped to zero and back up, well not exactly zero but it went down to 3-4v and back to 12v. The lock wire (which works) does the exact opposite.
And the violet and green wires didnt seem to work,
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: May 04, 2010 at 6:02 AM
The lock wire test indications are correct. It would seem that you have the wrong Gray wire for unlock. I don't know if Canadian versions are different from the US ones. Direct wire says: Power Lock brown - driver kick, 25 pin plug, pin 16
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Power Unlock gray (double pulse) - driver kick, 25 pin plug, pin 8
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder. These wires can also be found at the Body ECU which under the drivers dash and attached to the back of the fuse box. You can also use the passenger door key cylinder unlock wire, which only requires a single pulse. It is gray (-) at the fuse box, top Left, 16 pin plug, pin 7. Test this wire while turning the key in the passenger door. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: May 04, 2010 at 6:31 AM
The brown lock and gray unlock are directly next to each other in the 25 pin plug, on the end nearest the firwall. The motor legs are directly next to them....
-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: accordexxx
Date Posted: May 04, 2010 at 2:32 PM
taking a look now , will get back to you guys !
also i want to check with you for my 2nd starter wire using the -200mA starter output in the h2 harness, is this correct? I believe it is when I check with my +12v but I want to double check.
86 - connect to viper unit to 200mA starter output
30 - connect to 2nd starter wire in ignition harness
85+87 - connect to 30a fuse and +12v.
For a bit it was a little screwy with the remote start. The car wouldnt start or anything and all i heard was clicking when starting from the starter. I checked the battery at 11.5v .. so i said hey why not ill charge it a bit ... after a bit it worked again so I narrowed it down to this wire possibly being wrong? but now everythign works fine? can someone double check the relay for me . thanks
Posted By: accordexxx
Date Posted: May 04, 2010 at 2:45 PM
ps. tried finding the passeneger door unlock, only to find that there is no key cylinder on the passenger side
Posted By: accordexxx
Date Posted: May 04, 2010 at 4:50 PM
nvm got it to work guys, found it in the becu ! Thanks for all the help, greatly appreciate it
Posted By: accordexxx
Date Posted: May 04, 2010 at 5:20 PM
Still having problems with the starter though ...
I have everything connected and double checked. Not sure what it could be but it works sometimes and other times it just grinds the starter. It wont start until I give the battery a boost though. It was reading 10.96V , and I put a 70amp battery start/trickle charger to it and it fired up...
Does anyone know what could possible be the problem
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: May 04, 2010 at 6:32 PM
Your Start2 relay is wired wrong. By relay protocol, it should be... The (-) 2nd Starter Output from the Viper should be connected to Relay Pin 85. The Relay Pin 87 should go to the cars Starter2 wire that is Gray (+) at the ignition column. The fused +12 volt supply should be connected to Relay pins 86 and 30. Relay pin 87a is not used but should be cut and properly insulated. That should do it and not drain your battery all the time.  ------------- Soldering is fun!
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