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carvox 2300a, 530t, 98 f150?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=121639
Printed Date: May 28, 2024 at 1:14 PM


Topic: carvox 2300a, 530t, 98 f150?

Posted By: fordfan2
Subject: carvox 2300a, 530t, 98 f150?
Date Posted: April 25, 2010 at 4:25 PM

I cant seem to get my window roll up module to work. I actually had bought two modules. The guy i bought from off ebay said i would need two modules if i wanted them to go up and down. So i wired both window DOWN(s) to one module and wired the two window UP(s) to the other module. I hooked up both pos's and neg's. Now there is two wires on the module, i'm not sure what to wire it too. It has an orange wire (500ma Activation) and a Pink (To accessory). I just installed a Carvox 2300A Keyless entry alarm and remote start system into my 1998 Ford F150. I also just converted it to power windows myself from manual. Now i've read in a couple places i need to wire the orange wire to my starter killer relay that came with the remote start module. Then what does the pink wire do? Is it even possible to wire two modules to one system. The carvox system came with a 200ma Window Roll Up output for a module. So i was going to try and wire the UP module to that output. Then see if i could program the systems AUX output to trigger the DOWN module. I'm starting to think i cant do both just because the brain unit only sends out the ground output to the orange wire once. So i couldnt trigger the UP module to do anything? Someone Help!



Replies:

Posted By: fordfan2
Date Posted: April 25, 2010 at 5:12 PM

My Cavox alarm system has two ouputs. One is a purple wire that is for Positive Door triggers. The other is a Green wire that is for Negative outputs. According to some websites mine is a negative door trigger? So I tried the green wire and the main unit just clicks over and over, and stops when i unplug it. The unit has the domelight supervision output also which they say i can wire either the purple or green one into. I was also told that in order to use the domelight supervision i would need relay #775 for it to work otherwise the domelight stays on too long and sets the alarm off.  I'm totally lost with this thing. I hope someone can give me a hand on this.

1998 Ford F150 Light Duty
This is the sheet i got from the guy offline who i bought the whole system from.

Domelight Supervision (+) - Black Lt/Blue
Driver Door Trigger (-) - BLACK / YELLOW
The sheet also states that both the domelight supervision and the passenger door trigger is BLACK/ Lt Blue.





Posted By: fordfan2
Date Posted: April 25, 2010 at 5:27 PM

I also forgot to mention how i wired the relay. I found it online for either positive or negative domelight supervision. I wired it for positive because on this sheet it says its runnin positive.

85 Domelight Supervision Wire from brain unit
86 12v Constant
87 Either + or -
30 Domelight Supervision wire in Vehicle





Posted By: icearrow6
Date Posted: April 25, 2010 at 5:27 PM
The orange wire on the modules is the "activation".
That wire waits till it gets a (-) ground, and when it does it activates the module which ever way you wired it.

So If you wanted to roll down the module needs a constant (-) on the orange wire to work.
Same thing for the Roll up.
I don't know what the PINK wire is for but I never use it.

Usually you want to connect the ORANGE wire of the ROLL UP window to the "(-) when armed" output of the alar.
Then use an AUX output of the alarm to the ORANGE of the ROLL DOWN module. On this make sure the aux is set to LATCH so that its a CONSTANT (-) when you press aux on the remote of the alarm.

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Posted By: fordfan2
Date Posted: April 25, 2010 at 5:31 PM
So then i wouldnt use the seperate Window Roll up output that is stated in the main wire diagram in the back of the book?




Posted By: icearrow6
Date Posted: April 25, 2010 at 6:57 PM
Yep. if your alarm has the option .

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Posted By: fordfan2
Date Posted: April 25, 2010 at 7:03 PM
For some reason i still cant get it to function right. I have the orange UP module wire tied to the orange wire from the 500ma - when armed unit and still doesnt roll up. I dont have the switches for the windows hooked up yet. Would that be the problem?




Posted By: fordfan2
Date Posted: May 02, 2010 at 1:52 PM

So i've been working on my install of a carvox alarm, keyless entry, and remote start system for a while now on my 98 f150. I'm figuring that something is getting a constant from somewhere its not suppose to be but i dont know where or how. I bought this kit off ebay along with a lock actuator kit all in one bundle. The actuators are the 5 wire wire units. That all had its own wiring and module so that was painless install. Then i started installing the alarm system and i got it to lock and unlock perfectly fine and had no problems. I installed the starter kill relay which was prewired with 2 green wires, an orange and yellow. Mine called for a relay also to be installed for domelight supervision. I'm goin to lay down how i wired the relays and things at the bottom. I also bought two window roll up modules for the 2 door truck. I was told to buy two if i wanted up and down capability.

12 pin harness.

1.Red- 12v constant
2. Brown (+) Light output
3. Brown (+/-)- Not wired
4. RED / Black- Trunk Output- Not wired
5. Pink-Siren-wired to positive of siren
6. Black- Solid Ground
7. Yellow-Ground for locks
8. White-unlock #30 common
9.Orange-Unlock #87
10. Yellow/black- Ground for locks
11. WHITE/ Black- Unlock #30
12.ORANGE / Black- Lock #87

7 Pin Harness

GREEN / WHITE- 200ma Factory Rearm- Not wired as not a factory lock system"
GREEN/ Black- 200ma Factory Disarm-Not Wired
BLACK/ White- 200ma Domelight Supervision Output (See Relay)
Purple /Black -200ma Windows rolling up output- Not Wired
WHITE/ Black-200ma Aux 5 channel- Was going to wire to second window module to roll windows down)
Blue- Second Pass unlock output-Not wired
Orange-GWA Output to starter killer- I have this wired to the prewired relay killer which is also has an orange wire and attached window roll up module (orange activation output to)
6 Pin harness-

Yellow- To ignition- wired to first ign wire
Brown- Brake pedel- brake pedel postive
Black - Trunk Pin- not wired
Grey- Hood Pin- not wired
Purple(+) Positive door trigger-wired into drivers door switch pin
Green(-)- Negative door trigger, says to connect to a domelight circuit- Do i also need this wired?

Starter Module

Blue/white wire-200ma bypass output when remote start- Dont know what this does
Grey/Black- Diesel- dont have didnt wire
BLACK/ White - Neutral saftety switch- just put to ground since i own automatic
Purple- wired to tach wire under hoot at coil

Relay for domelight supervision
85-domelight supervision wire from alarm
86 12v
87 Either ground or pos depending on vehicle(i wired it 12v which according to the f150 diagrams mines a positive output for the dome)
30  domelight wire in vehicle

Some people have wired it differently on different websites so im not sure if this is how its suppose to be but it works in the truck like its suppose to. It lights up when i disarms it and dies out if the doors are still closed. When i open the door it stays on i'm pretty sure seenig the door is open.

Prewired relay for starter killer defeat

Green 1- starter motor side
Green 2- ignition side of starter motor
Yellow- tapped into ignition
Orange- tied into ground when armed output along with window roll up module at alarm module.

Also the window roll up module has a pink wire that i dont know what it does. The both have an orange wire one was to go to GWA wire and the other was going to wire into the aux channel which i cant seem to get either to work?





Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 02, 2010 at 4:35 PM
Is it possible that you supplied the starter kill relay with constant power instead of the key side of the start wire?




Posted By: fordfan2
Date Posted: May 02, 2010 at 7:28 PM

What should the ground when armed output rest at with a meter when disarmed? Mine had the same reading armed or disarmed? What does everyone else's read out. I put the positive lead of the meter to power and put the neg lead to the GWA output and thats how i got my reading. I'm trying to figure out why my window roll up modules wont work.





Posted By: fordfan2
Date Posted: May 15, 2010 at 2:41 PM
Hello all, i have a few questions i'm hoping someone can answer for me. I just got the 530T in the mail and got it installed. Now the problems that occur. This is a 98 f150 single cab. Had manual everything till i did a full swap with power locks windows ect. I also recently installed a Carvox 2300a model alarm, remote start system in it. When i hook up the orange wire from the 530t to the GWA output on my alarm it doesnt get the trigger. So i went and got a relay from autozone and wired it into my door lock trigger and they roll up fine every time i lock it. Is there a way to bypass the windows going up if i wanted to just lock the vehicle? Which means without that output working i cant get my starter kill relay to work as far as the anti grind feature either. Also, what should my setting be on my remote for my aux channel when i want to roll the windows down? Because so far they vent and then right after that they roll down. In general, since i have to wire the relay to my lock pulse output can i bypass it from the keyfob to not roll up when i arm it? Thanks to all




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 16, 2010 at 2:18 AM
Use an aux wire set to 10secs. timed instead of the GWA or diode split the GWA for the two functions, i.e. roll up and starter cut. The aux you're using for venting should be left as pulsed.




Posted By: fordfan2
Date Posted: May 16, 2010 at 4:04 PM
Well howie, i have the RED / white (windows down) wire hooked to my aux channel and my choices are 8 secs, 15 secs, or latched. Now i have a seperate wire for window roll up feature but it shows a constant ground all the time? The second i put the orange wire from the 530t the windows rolled up without evening arming the system. I thought that was just suppose to give a timed pulse (ground) when you put the system in arm mode? My GWA output wire doesnt change ever when i put the meter on it. Whats the best way to check it? I just put the red probe from the meter to 12v and the black probe to the GWA output wire. Is that the proper way to test it? The book said i could use a relay to tie my windows roll up from the 530t to my lock pulse output but everytime the locks lock the windows roll up. When i put it in drive, it locks and the windows roll up? What else can i try?




Posted By: fordfan2
Date Posted: May 16, 2010 at 6:06 PM
Heres the situation, my windows roll up every single time my truck locks. The windows could be down, i get in start my truck, throw it in drive, the doors lock and the windows roll up! The wiring is the problem i know but what can i do about it. My gwa output on my alarm doesnt seem to function at all and my window roll up output on my alarm shows a constant ground. So when i hook the 530t's orange wire to it, it automatically rolls the windows up the second its hooked up. So i hooked my 530ts wire to a relay and then from the relay to my door lock pulse and it rolls up everytime it locks. Is there a solution to this issue? Thank you




Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: May 16, 2010 at 6:47 PM
If your GWA wire is really messed up, the following relay would help:
Relay 1
86 - ignition
85 - ground
87a - lock wire from alarm
30 - input of 530T

You will need to split the output of the lock wire from the alarm with 2 diodes. Strip side of the diodes facing the alarm. This may cause an issue where the lock output may not be strong enough to trigger the locks. If that happens, you could add two relays (total of 3) and skip the diodes.

Relay 2
86 - constant 12v
85 - lock output of alarm
87 - ground
30 - lock wire of car

Relay 3
86 - constant 12v
85 - lock output of alarm
87 - ground
30 - 87a of relay 1





Posted By: fordfan2
Date Posted: May 16, 2010 at 11:06 PM
So Jworm, what i would do is split the lock wire into two wires with two seperate diodes, one diode wire will go to the relay and the other diode wire would go to my lock unit for the power locks. Then if that doesnt do the trick, i can use two more total of three relays to solve the issue. Am i reading you right? Now if just the first relay does the trick what is it doing for me. Will this relay then fix the problem as far as it only locks when i arm the system from my keyfob and not when i put it in drive and the door locks? Thanks JWorm i really apperciate it!




Posted By: fordfan2
Date Posted: May 17, 2010 at 8:02 PM
Jworm, i wired it like the way you said with diodes and it has enough power to do both jobs but it doesnt work through the relay. I can wire everything together with diodes without the relay and it will work but the windows go up everytime it locks. So if the diodes work, then there is no need for two more relays. I just cant figure out why its not working. Please help!





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