2010 chevy camaro upgrade

I was installing an upgrade system into a 2010 camaro. I had trouble with the lock and unlock systems. Someone told me you have to add relays and diodes for any brand upgrade. CAN ANYONE HELP, i dont want to go but a module every time i have to install one.

What system are you installing?

I am installing a PURSUIT PRO9233N....a  buddy if mine has the same trouble with an AutoMate UPGRADE

Fred, i have the solution for you. I went thru this same problem and Avox came up with this...

https://documents.audiovox.com/710819.pdf

This problem also occurs with the new Equinox....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Just use a iDatalink or Fotin module to control the OEM secuity and door locks. Way less troubles and controlled via data. Is there a reason why you don't want to use a module ?

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

A module won't give you motor legs to control an alarm upgrade. My dealers want to use the factory remote for control because it's built into the keyhead and a remote-less key is unavailable. The legs rest at 7 volts and if you connect even a diode to the leg wires they stop working....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

about time they made that a tech document. I called them about it a long time ago and they said "call us back when you figure it out"


I have several of them prepped on the bench, it works like a charm. Now if only they could make it into a box, those relays take up a lot of room under the dash.

And there's zero room under the dash in the Camaro too...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

room is not the issue. The real issue is keeping the components out of the way of techs. If the car goes in for service those animals tend to yank and pull on anything they see not factory. This can create issues

it is possible to do door locks without a module.  It is not easy but can be done.  I have done many trucks and suburbans but never a car.  On the trucks you have to remove the circuit board from the drivers door.  Find the 3 contact pads under the lock and unlock switches.  One is common and there is a lock and unlock pad.  Follow the traces to a spot that is open enough to solder a small wire to the trace.  On the trucks I follow them all the way to the chip that is soldered to the back side of the circuit board.  Solder a small wire to each of the 3 spots, common, lock and unlock.  Route the 3 small wires out of the housing that holds the circuit board and all the switches.  Wire the relays as follows, the common wire to terminal 30 of both relays.  Connect the lock wire to 87 of one relay, and the unlock wire to 87 of the other relay.  Power to terminal 86 of both relays.  Alarm lock output to 85 of the relay to which you have the lock wire connected to 87.  Alarm unlock to 85 of the other relay.

An IDE hard drive cable is what I am thinking when I say a small wire.  This wire is not really durable enough to run through the boot.  I run the small wire out of the control panel and connect it to primary wire that you can run through the boot and to the relays.

i am an idiot wrote:

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it is possible to do door locks without a module.  It is not easy but can be done.  I have done many trucks and suburbans but never a car.  On the trucks you have to remove the circuit board from the drivers door.  Find the 3 contact pads under the lock and unlock switches. 

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He is talking about an add on to the factory keyless entry so this info is not valid. The camaro has negative triggers for the switches anyways, no need for soldering to the board

The issue he is referencing is that the actuators rest at 7 volts adn the alarm cannot differentiate between the 7 volts at rest and the 12 volt on the lock unlock commands