2007 nissan altima dlpk r/s 82
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124327
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 3:00 AM
Topic: 2007 nissan altima dlpk r/s 82
Posted By: z_modder
Subject: 2007 nissan altima dlpk r/s 82
Date Posted: November 07, 2010 at 10:19 PM
I installed the Bulldog Security simple (82) remote starter with a dlpk that flashed correctly as the instructions indicated. When start command is given, it turns the light on, turns the starter over, but fails to run. The dlpk remains active unless I hit the stop on the remote. The car starts using factory transpoder with no problems. I am not using the tach output to the R/S as I have used tachless mode on 4 other installs with no problem. I also don't have door lock signals, hood trigger or running status wires hooked up as it is a simple R/S. I have the pink wire from the DLPK tied into ING #1 (+) & pin 11 Black conn.. ING #2 & Start #1 are installed with isolation relays tied to ground. Under the hood, Start #2 & Neutral Safety control the relay coil (diode isolated) that energes Start 3 (pin 80) with 12v Batt (pin 46). All 34 accessory wires are diode isolated. Also when it tries to start, I see the little yellow No Key light in the dash area. I have verified wires with the factory BCM manual here.https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Altima/2007/bcs.pdf
Any clues as to what I may not have done? I did see a video on Youtube where a 2010 model had 2 brake wires installed, one for brake to start and one for brake to stop. Did not see any references to this on 3 different install manulas. ------------- Working with Electronics since 1980.
Replies:
Posted By: z_modder
Date Posted: November 07, 2010 at 10:23 PM
"All 34 accessory wires" should be "All 3 accessory wires". Would be heck to have to run 34 acc wires. LOL
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Working with Electronics since 1980.
Posted By: mpe235
Date Posted: November 08, 2010 at 5:32 AM
You say you don't have the running status hooked up. You will need the DLPK connected to the Ground when running wire from your remote start to activate it during remote start.
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Nissan Master Tech.
Posted By: z_modder
Date Posted: November 08, 2010 at 7:08 AM
Thanks. I think I should add a 2nd relay coil to the r/s Ignition 2 output and ground the running status wire. This way it is only enabled while in r/s mode, is that correct? ------------- Working with Electronics since 1980.
Posted By: z_modder
Date Posted: November 08, 2010 at 8:23 AM
Actually, looking at the r/s manual I should be able to use the Vats (-) signal directly. I did not use this signal previously as I assumed the dlpk took care of this function.
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Working with Electronics since 1980.
Posted By: z_modder
Date Posted: November 08, 2010 at 7:30 PM
OK she is up and running. I used the Vats trigger on the running monitor line.Thanks for the help. ------------- Working with Electronics since 1980.
Posted By: mpe235
Date Posted: November 08, 2010 at 7:32 PM
Glad to see you got it working.
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Nissan Master Tech.
Posted By: z_modder
Date Posted: November 08, 2010 at 8:38 PM
The keyless take over proceedure is built-in some high end bypass units, any way I could wire something up so as not to have to kill it with the brake pedal and restart with the transponder? Would this be why the guy with the 2010 Altima was using two different brake wires? ------------- Working with Electronics since 1980.
Posted By: mpe235
Date Posted: November 08, 2010 at 8:40 PM
I think you can just push the ignition button twice.
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Nissan Master Tech.
Posted By: z_modder
Date Posted: November 08, 2010 at 9:28 PM
I tried that and it still dies. Something about needing the brake sense as there are 4 wires on the brake switch. If it could be as simple as getting the correct brake wire to go low, I could install a small momentary switch just for that purpose. The green wire on the brake was labled by perciisionconnections as the "brake to start" wire. He used a dlpk & a viper r/s. I beleive the blue/white wire was what I tied into at the bcm for r/s stop. If this green wire could similate stepping on the brake, would the car attempt to run the starter with the engine running?
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Working with Electronics since 1980.
Posted By: mpe235
Date Posted: November 09, 2010 at 6:48 PM
From what I can tell you have to wire up the disarm wires to the bcm . The Alarm has to be disarmed prior to remote start for take over.You will need to wire green connector pin 34 and double pulse it to unlock/disarm and pin 56 for lock/arm. ------------- Nissan Master Tech.
Posted By: mpe235
Date Posted: November 09, 2010 at 6:57 PM
The locations for those wires will be empty in the connector. You will have to add a wire. If you can't find a pin that will connect I think you can accomplish the same thing by wiring to the switch at the door lock cylinder in the driver's door. Just test the wires while turning the key to see whick one is lock and unlock.
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Nissan Master Tech.
Posted By: z_modder
Date Posted: November 09, 2010 at 8:36 PM
mpe235 wrote:
From what I can tell you have to wire up the disarm wires to the bcm . The Alarm has to be disarmed prior to remote start for take over.You will need to wire green connector pin 34 and double pulse it to unlock/disarm and pin 56 for lock/arm.
If the system is disarmed by pressing the unlock button on the door handle or using the factory remote before entering, how would this help? ------------- Working with Electronics since 1980.
Posted By: mpe235
Date Posted: November 09, 2010 at 8:39 PM
I believe it has to be disarmed prior to remote starting the vehicle.
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Nissan Master Tech.
Posted By: z_modder
Date Posted: November 09, 2010 at 8:51 PM
mpe235 wrote:
I believe it has to be disarmed prior to remote starting the vehicle.
That will never happen in the bad neighborhood where my wife works. ------------- Working with Electronics since 1980.
Posted By: z_modder
Date Posted: February 13, 2011 at 11:21 AM
I have another problem with this remote starter. Ever since the installation, the battery in my wifes FOB only lasts 3 weeks. I give her mine (which sits mostly in the drawer), than it also pops up the weak battery light on the console display after 3 weeks. Anyone know why ths would happen? Batteries normally last us at least a year.
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Working with Electronics since 1980.
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