keysense disarm 06 tundra dc

Hi
I am new here as a poster but have lurked for a while getting info for all my remote starter installs. Great site.

I am instaling a DEI Valet 591R in my buddy's 2006 Toyota Tundra DoubleCab. Per info I found here, it does not need any type of bypass module for security. However, I am having an issue with disarming the keysense on the ignition. I have everything wired in and it tries to start but shuts right off. I put the key in and turn it to the ON position and hit the RS button and it fires right up. So I know there is a problem with disarming the keysense. I used a DMM to monitor the keysense wire while using the key to turn it on and see that it goes from 10 volts down to .01 volts when the key is turned on position.

Based on suggestions I have read on here, I have tried to handle this by using the factory disarm wire and the negative status output on the RS connected to the keysense wire without any luck. When I monitored with the DMM with these wires connected, I noticed that the volts only drop to .07. Close but not the same as the factory signal.

What do I need to do to get this working? Does it need a bypass unit? One suggestion I have not tried yet is using the negative status 200ma output. Do you think this will work? Another suggestions I read was to wire the negative through a relay. I plan on giving both of these options a try tonight but thought I would post here incase someone has a definite answer.

Thanks in advance.

YES, you do need a bypass.

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You probably need a bypass module.  However, the better test is as follows:

Does it remote start with the key just in the ignition and NOT turned?  If yes, your Remote start is OK but you need a bypass.   If no, check your ignition wiring.  Keysense won't keep it from starting, it will just keep the alarm, if present, from going off.

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Soldering is fun!

Key inserted and NOT turned = cranks but will NOT start
Key inserted and turned to ON = cranks and WILL start

So maybe what I have wrong is the wire that tells the vehicle to stay running with the key in the ON position?

Here is my wiring chart I made up for myself, the top group is the heavy gauge wires at the ignition switch....

RS - 12v Red ----to ---- Tundra - WHITE/ red
RS - 12v Red ----to----- Tundra - WHITE/ Blue
RS - Starter+ ---to ---- Tundra - BLACK/ White
RS - Ignition1 --to ---- Tundra - BLACK/ Red
RS - Ignition2 -- to --- Tundra - BLACK / YELLOW
RS - Accessory -- to --- Tundra - Pink

RS - Ground    ---to --- Tundra - bolt on firewall
RS - P Lights + --to --- Tundra - Green at kick panel
RS - Brake      --to --- Tundra - brake switch WHITE/ red
RS - Status Output - to -Tundra - YELLOW /GREEN at keyswitch
RS - Tach Wire ---to---- Tundra - Coil Pack wire

I double checked my wiring with another source for the Tundra wiring and everything looks right. My Valet 561R has an Ignition2/Accessory output wire that is programmable, the default setting is for Ignition, so that should be correct.

Also to note, I believe this Tundra only has the keyless entry system and not an alarm setup. I have never had any alarm go off or horn beeping during the remote start attempts.

Anyone have any ideas?

Yes, wiring looks good.  Look for immobilizer at ignition switch.  iDatalink shows a bypass module available.  They also use Keysense in the bypass.  Did you verify all the wires ( especially Keysense ) with a Digital Multi Meter?

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Soldering is fun!

After it wouldn't stay running but was cranking I did verify all connections were getting power or were grounded good with the DMM. I did verify the keysense wire with DMM. It was 10-11v without a key and .07 with the key inserted.

I will look into the bypass module.

I plan to double check my tach wire. I found a lot of information about the Valet RS acting funny if they don't see a tach signal. I was having an issue with the program mode LED not turning on, which could be another reason it wont stay running.

An 06 Tundra DOES NOT NEED A BYPASS.

Your problem is definately not keysense. It is not needed to RS the truck as it's only function is to turn off the factory alarm. I'm willing to bet you do have a factory alarm(i have never seen one without) but it won't stop the RS process just honk the horn. To tell if you have one, roll down the drivers window/lock the doors with the remote/wait 2 minutes/open the door from the inside manual handle.

Your problem is probably tach. I usually go under the hood at the closest coil, 3rd wire from the left.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Or pin 9 on the OBD (data connector) lower dash driver's side.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Isn't there a second starter on these?
WHITE/ red at the brake switch makes me think you've got the wrong side. The wire you,re looking for should only read 12v+ when the brake pedal is depressed.
Mike don't scream at me, I've no bloody idea what a Tundra is

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for all the helpful info guys. When my buddy bought the truck it didnt have keyless entry. He took it to the Toyota dealership to have it installed. He said it was just the keyless entry he had added but I wouldnt be surprised if it was an alarm system too. I will test that out tomorrow when he drops it off.

I will get that tach signal tapped at the coil first and try it from there.

The brake wire is correct - i used the DMM to monitor it and make sure it was 12v only with the pedal pressed.

 Sorry Howie....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Don't worry I call it cross-understanding of different market vehicles, like your ever likely to see a Lotus Elise* or a Rover 75.
The Tundra is just too big for European roads.
*Glad I mentioned that one it turned up as a Pontiac a few years ago.
One of these days I'll tell you what you think of as a US vehicle and you would be intrigued as to what they are in Europe such as the current Buick Regal. Or the Ford edge. It isn't the European Mondeo it's actually a Mazda 6. Even the Corolla is the Auris in Europe.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.