suggestions alarm r/s nissan maxima 04

the best alarm is no specific brand. An alarm is only as good as the install.

The easiest way is to have a professional do it. Now you can tackle the DIY, but anything name brand wise such as DEI, compustar, autopage, avox/prestige, are all equally hard to install if you have no basic electrical knowledge.

the fortin keyoverride all is a very easy bypass to hook up.

i prefer compustar units, but thats just my preferance.

I'll chip in here as a DIY guy.  OK, a Professional DIY guy. I'll try most anything for a challenge, but can admit when I over my head.

I like the Viper 5301 rs and the Viper 5701 rs/alarm.  (Python 580, 872, and Clifford 1.3 and 3.3, same thing different name.) I have installed them both in my vehicles and like the features of these systems. Granted, since I installed them my self, there is on warranty from DEI.  I first had a Viper 571xv which was fine, but I thought the range was a bit short compared to the LE series and the having to press a combination of buttons was too confusing for the wife.  Also, that first install was a disaster. I used scotchlocks, did not solder a thing, tried to do it  while watching the Vikings get killed, and had my head up my  A**.

Tedmond pointed me in the direction of the Fortin bypass and I love them. Just gotta pay attention to what you are doing. ie, test/verify  EVERY wire. And then double check it.

Do your research for your vehicle and use the search feature of this site. Chances are some one has already asked the same question, ie, wire for rear window defrost, relays and door locks.

Take you time. Plan on an entire week-end for this. Read the manuals that come with the unit.  Thats my 2 cents. (pence for you Howie). lol

And if you find the info from this site helpful, please donate to keep it going.  My plug for the the12volt.com.

Another 2 cents....

First decide how elaborate you want to go.  A basic alarm will monitor the doors, hood and truck.  Then comes shock sensors, motion sensors, glass sensors, proximity/warn away sensors.  Don't forget battery back up, window roll-ups, etc.  All of this adds to the cost, time to install and setup / programming of the alarm.

Next comes the type of remote transmitters.  There are one way, two way, LCD display, long range.  Drone and iPhone...   Again, the price goes up with the features.

As a DITYer, you will not have the programming tools the Professional Installers have.  Things like BitWriter, OP500, XKLoader, ADS USB cable, FlashLink cable make things easier.  Also you will not have full access to the alarm & bypass manufacturer Tech Support.  And of course, there would be no "lifetime warranty" because the item wasn't installed by an authorized dealer.

All of the above should be taken into consideration before you make any purchase.

A few tips:

Most DEI bypass modules need the correct firmware loaded ( flashed ) on to them with a special USB cable. 

The iDatalink Solo series bypass modules come pre-loaded with the correct firmare, but it might not be the latest version, depending on where you by it.

All the Fortin bypass modules come peloaded but might not be the latest version, depending on where you buy it.

The major Alarm/Remote Start manufacturers ( DEI, Compustar, etc) all make good products.  They differ in price, features and avalability.  If you are not familiar with the brand / model, a lot of reasearch would be needed to see if it met your needs.

Check with your local install shops for their recommendation and price.  While they will promote their preferred brands, you will get some good ideas.  Choose a name brand.  It will make your life easier if you need support and when you sell the car.  Some no name brand from "Online Auctions" might be less expensive but getting support will be diffcult and reliability is a major concern ( just reading the poorly translated install guides would be a major issue ).  As mentioned earlier, the most important part is the actual install.  Done correctly, you will have no problems and, aside from replacing the remotes batteries occasionally, excellent performance.

My personal choice would be a Compustar CM6000 with the RF-2WG5-SS remotes and the iDatalink ADS-DLSL CA2 bypass module.  But I have theCompustar OP500  programmer and the iDatalink ADS USB cable to program and flash the units.

kreg357 brings up many excellent other points to consider. All which add to the cost and time involved.

what kreg said....

The iDatalink bypass module is a good choice but will only handle the immobilizer for you on the 2004 Maxima ( unless the BCM was upgraded ).  Follow the ADS ALSL NI install guide for a Type 1 install.  You won't need to connect the lock, unlock, trunk, tach, door status, trunk status or  hood status wires to theiDatalink  module as they are not operational for your 2004 Maxima application.  All of those connections will be from the AutoPage brain directly to the car.

Not too familiar with the AutoPage unit, but it looks like it has a (-) Accessory 2 output.  You can use that for the ACC2 wire in the car.  Get A 30/40 Amp SPDT relay and an inline fuse holder with a 20 Amp fuse.  Wire as follows:

Relay Pin 85 to AutoPage (-) Accessory 2 output
Relay Pin 86 and Pin 87 to +12v constant thru fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Maxima ACC2 wire
Relay Pin 87A not used - insulate

hey everybody just got the alarm in and the module. Im having a little dificulty on understanding how to do my door lock and unlock . I found this way but i dont think it will work for me ............

Sorry for that ill re do it . Ok i was doing my research for the lock and unlock and i only found this way

Pin 14 @ bcm one pulse disarms and turns on the domelight. A secound pulse unlocks all doors

Pin 11 @ bcm a full, one secound pulse locks the doors and arms the factory alarm. The product youre installing must have a 1 sec doorlock pulse.

Pin 13 @ bcm usually lock/arm with one pulse,but not that particular car,it didnt seem to want to work

Now the autopage has the option of a dbl pulse lock and unlock . i can get the unlock to work but what about the lock because it only has a .8 sec pulse. dose anyone know of a better way? Thanks.