honda s2000 compustar 2w8000fmasf

Honda s2000 year 2000 with factory alarm

Hey guys, IL be installing my own Compustar 2w8000fmasf. A little background information about my wiring capabilities ( Engine harness, various styles of gauges,Turbo timers, emange ,vfac car audio etc).

This is my first time installing an alarm, I will be cheating as my friend has this same system installed in his s2000. My goal will be to disect his install and copy it into mine.

He also does not have the auto start option or turbo timer setup as wont I. I Basically want the basic features as the stock s2000 alarm with the extra shock sensor, hood pin, paging system/2way capabilities.

My question are as followed

Did you guys disarm the factory alarm when installing your compustar?( can i just take the black box out ? by cutting the White Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-)Keyless Entry Module. The keyless entry module is located in the drivers kick panel behind the start button?

If im not going to have auto start I dont need any thing else do I? Ie immobilizer by pass etc. Just what ever comes with the kit.

Also where did you guys install your shock sensor




also here is the diagram https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/1085.html




I hope i didn't miss something thanks for your guys input.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Your keyless entry module controls more than just keyless entry so you wont be able to remove/disconnect it. As far as disarming the factory alarm, Unless you use the factory remote or push the lock button on the door when getting out of the car you wont be arming it therefore no reason to disarm it.

Since you arent installing a remote start you will not need an immobilizer bypass. The only thing you will need that doesnt come with the alarm are 3 relays for the door locks.

Your shock sensor should be mounted to anything that isnt metal either with screws or with zip ties if you attach it to a large wire harness or something you dont want to put screw holes in.

Thank you so much sir, I really appreciate your response. Now for the relays Il have to get back to you on that. Im trying to figure something.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Couldnt you just tie into the lock/unlock circuit with no relays.  Use a couple of diodes inserted into the open pins at the keyless module, tie your lock/unlock wires from the compustar to the appropriate input at the keyless mod and call it a day?  There should also be a disarm circuit present at the keyless module.  You could use the disarm output from the compustar and tag that wire, which looks to be white.  That way even if you did accidently arm the factory alarm you would still be able to disarm it from your aftermarket remotes.  A blaring alarm is pretty embarrassing.....

Whats your reasoning behind not mounting it to something metal Ie the driver side door. ?

Also to Simplyfalling I just asked A fellow s2000ner and he did not use any relays in his door triggers. Why would i need to use a diode? And I like your idea regarding tagging the white wire. I will be doing the install on the 26th. Hopefully successfully will update this thread once done. Anyone else ever installed a compustar into an s2000 please chime in.


Regards Michael

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Also one more thing On the actual compustar harness there is a yellow Starter wire/relay(posted picture below), If im not installing auto start there is no reason for me to hook that up to the factory wiring of the car correct?. I could just cut that wire for a cleaner install. But will keep it just encase i want to autostart in future.



PS: really appreciate your guys input.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Ok huge turn of events check this out. Does this mean i can just take this systems wiring out and swap it with the compustar then im good to go ?



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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

I've read your threads and questions:
1) Please don't attempt this yourself, your knowledge level is too low.
2) You've already confused door lock triggers with door triggers.
) Why buy a Compustar R/S and security unit when all you need is an alarm?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for your input. I will take these into consideration. After a good hour under the dash looking how the clifford system was installed, I have a better understanding of the wiring situation. Im still going to attempt this, if i fail or give up there is a guy threw my local forum who does installs for a fair price. The reason why i dont want anyone doing the alarm install is because of how tight it is in my car. Cage and bucket seat along with low seat rails( taking seats is not an option as my hardtop is locked in and taking seats out would be impossible if i dont take hardtop out) is hard for any installer to get under my dash. Ive already done my emanage ultimate install defi gauges etc, I believe with a bit of help from you guys il have a fighting chance in completing this.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Fair enough and thanks for the responsible answer. In that case I will help where I can.
Your easiest pathway would be to test each Clifford wire for what it does and follow it back to source, then disconnect and emulate it with each Compustar wire.
By the way I whole heartedly agree with your views on access, although one trick is to go under the chair with the main unit if you can, even partially removing the chair.
I've played with alarm systems and done phone and audio work on them, right PITA! Rubbish door speakers and no spacers for replacements, I had to make my own!
The relay shown in the photos is a starter cut relay, you can still use it as an immobiliser. Though if you have a factory transponder immobiliser you won't need it.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks so much once again,

I took another photo for you Its of the Clifford wiring. The previous installer spliced what im guessing is the starter wire (I came to this conclusion based on the Clifford wiring diagram). I can now just solder those back together correct? As i wont be installing the starter relay from the compustar. I hope that made sense. The Red and white wires from the Clifford starter relay have cut into the s2000's starter wire. The two crimped wires...



As side note yes the s2000 has a stock immobilizer in the key fob/around ignition. Its really late over here im going to go to bed and start with a fresh mind. This stuff is really interesting.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

I doubt if that's the starter wire from its thin gauge but yes it is some sort of immobiliser, just join together.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

By the way, don't crimp like that, solder.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes sir, i haven't used taps ever in my car after one horrible problem. One time when i was doing an engine swap i had to modify a obd2 wiring harness to an obd1 and had to make new connections, anyways I used taps to save time. When I started the car it would go into limp mode and shut down in 10 seconds, after hours and hours tracing each wire back i found that the tap (that went into the maf) was not getting enough power. After i soldered it back it finally started etc. So no I will never ever use taps again. Taps only cause problems not solve them plus they look horrible.


Anyways still trying to figure out what wire the clifford relay spliced into. In the clifford manual says it splicing the started but like Howard said the wire gauge of the starter is too small. Anyone have an idea?

I also want to clarify that I will not be installing the Starter wires Ie yellow from the compustar into my s2000. Because Im not installing auto-start correct.



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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

The installer was probably trying to be clever and cut into an engine management etc, the starter colours should be something like BLACK/ white
or the BLACK/ red shown in the plug above, I wouldn't mind guessing that RED / black is either clutch switch out or maybe a second ignition.
Don't worry just join (solder and sleeve) those wires together. DON'T crimp them, I'll bet the original installer never used a compound action crimper on them.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank You, I just figured out that i was missing the installation manual And only had cm6000 wiring schematic and user guide. Reading through the installation manual right now.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Alrite so, I got the alarm to work well sorta.
The alarm arms and disarms all futures from the compustar work Ie, Shock,rps,temp,etc. Only thing that does not work is my doors they dont lock or unlock. My 2way remote lets me know if the door is open. If i arm the system and open the door the the alarm goes off( so it recognizes the door opening). For some reason the doors dont lock and unlock. Heres my dilema ive asked a few people who have done there own installs and some say the used door relays some say they dont. The preivious installer who installed the cliford alarm in my car did not use any relays for the doors. What should I do.

I appreciate your guys help. Im glad I made it this far! :)

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

I also forgot to mention that the parking lights work also. If i arm the system they blink etc.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

You WILL need relays, refer to the the sheet I sent you and to the relay diagrammes for 5 wire in the relay section here.
I'm just wondering what damage you may have done to the Compustar's lock outputs.
Why did you even assume without testing? Basic moronic amateur mistake, it's not as if you didn't have ALL the info in front of you.
Remember my first post?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Also that Clifford Prime was an upgrade, no remotes, it was TRIGGERED by the factory locking, it didn't control the locks.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks Hopefully not to bad. Il keep you posted.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

I finally had some time to off work to go back to the project. Al rite I fully understand Why I need relays now, The compustar main harness came with two wires for 12 V source. Instead of those two wires going to my constant 12v (on ignition harness) Can I just solder one to the 12v of the car and the other to go to the three relays?


Thanks Guys, especially Howard.


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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

No, run all the wires to your `12volt source plus a 15 amp fuse for each relay.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry, a correction, ONE 15 amp fuse shared with both relays. So your pathway is constant to 15 amp fuse to 87 and 86 on both relays. Diode across each relay 1N4004 wit5h the bands towards 86, both lock triggers go to the 85 terminals, unlike the incorrect diagramme on the relay section of this site.
Relay 1:
Lock trigger to 85
12volt + to 86 and 87
Cut motor the wire that shows 12v+ on lock, car side to 87a, door side to 30.
Relay 2:
Unlock trigger to 85
12volt + to 86 and 87
Cut the motor wire that shows 12v+ on unlock, car side to 87a, door side to 30
The car side on both is the side that shows 12v+ after you've cut when you try to activate lock and unlock.


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

And would these work?

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Yes but between 85 and 86, bands (cathodes) towards 86.
Look in the relay section go to the diagram showing 5 wire alternating, then look to the bottom diagram on that page, solder the diode to the base of the terminals.
The diodes will protect the alarm outputs.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hey Howard, What proximity sensor do you suggest? Dei ?
Also, is there anyway to install the turbo timer function without installing the remote start? If so what wires would i need to wire up.

Thanks Howard. :)

Ps. The relays worked !!

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Yes, 508d
Yes but why?
Aux from Compustar set for 1.5 minutes to 85.
BLACK / YELLOW from ignition, cut, key side to 87a and ign side to 30.
Fused at 30 amps 12 volt constant to 86 and 87, diode as before across 85 and 86.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Id like to do this because I have a turbo. It will sure be sweet if I could wire this up instead of having to wire up the apexi turbo timer also. Less wires and one less box.

Could you elaborate on it a bit more. So the Ignition switch Relay that came with the compustar I would end up having to install it?

Also Can I choose for less time on the Turbo timer to lets say 30 seconds?

Thanks

Heres an interior shot of the car, you can see the type of hell I have to go threw with the cage being in the way. It looks like there is more room then it really is.



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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

You know what I think I understand what you wrote down. Il chime in tomorrow.

So aux1 output form compustar goes to 85. With cathodes towards 86 like befor.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

OK, point taken, know what you're saying about that roll-bar, I've worked on racers/rally cars, I always had to get to them before the roll-bar went in.
I like what you've done with the stereo, good thinking; the factory position is rubbish.
You can use the supplied relay, it probably even has the diode built in.
What you will be doing is to cut the ignition instead of the starter wire, make sure the supplied relay has 5 terminals.
The 90 seconds I quoted is nominal; it's also the longest time I would use so what you suggested is fine.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry I should have added that the way I said to wire that relay should enable you to set the turbo timer, remove the key, engine still running, arm and lock the car, timer will shut down automatically at the end of that time.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes the factory position of the stereo is horrible. LOL I Did that befor they started bringing double dins out. My plan is to one day to cut the dash again and use a double din set up.

How will I know if the relay has a built in diode, The Clifford diode that I used for the door motors had an exposed diode between 85-86. Also How would I go about figuring out which is key side and ignition side.

I could not have learned this much without your help!

Ok its really late over here Need some sleep.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

There are relays available with a built in diode but specialist and not available to the general public. They would have a relay icon stamped on a "circuit diagram" on the side of the housing, other wise you will physically see it across the base.
I'm about to email you some photos, I never seem able to download properly to here!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank you, That was great read. I feel alot more at ease now, its easier to understand what your doing when you actually understand the mechanical workings behind it.

If you notice on the Clifford Relay the Cathode on the diode is facing 85 instead of 86 or am I wrong? Aren't I suppose to wire up the diode line towards 86 then 85.

Once again I cant stop thanking you. Il have to pay-pal you some beer money.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

85 and 86 are generally interchangeable, except the international convention states that 85 is the neg. and 86 the pos. side of the coil, also relays with an inbuilt diode will therefore have 85 as the neg. It doesn't matter which way round as long as the cathode faces the pos. side of the coil.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Dam so i go to use the compustar supplied relay. And out of luck it was a four prong 40a With the 87 cut. Will have to resume the project tomorrow after I buy a new relay.

Il be able to control how long the turbo timer is with my 2way right.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Yes, use aux 1 or trunk release. See my email.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hey guys, Just wanted to give you an update. Didn't have much time to finish things up. So far Today I got the siren and hood pin mounted.

Had to make custom bracket for the hood pin. I placed the horn in the trunk by a the air vent( its there so when you close your doors ina convertable the air inside has somewhere to escape) .

The reason why i placed it in my trunk is, my hardtop extends over the trunk and in order to open my trunk you would need to take the rear portion of the hardtop off. Two reasons why I mounted it there are
1) Loud outside and inside the cabin
2) inaccessible by thief in short time.

The longer part of any wire install I find is making everything look like its stock and suppose to be there. So thats where I am today. Hopefully will have most of the wire hiding done by tomorrow.

Howard, I carefully re read the compustar manual and inorder for me to adjust turbo timer Id need the op500. I guess I wont be installing the turbo timer untill I find a shop who will allow me to use theirs and program my special options.

Thanks everyone.

On a side note I have a question regarding my back up camera. When the car is just on acc and not on it works fine. When my car is on longer then 3 minutes the camera will start to blink on the screen almost like its resetting its self. When the car is off the camera gets 11v when the car is running its closer to 13 where the camera get its power. Do you think it has to do with voltage?

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Power the camera from the reverse/back-up light, then will only be on for a few seconds at at a time and the problem won't arise.
Nothing at all wrong with your siren position; it's a good example of "thinking outside of the box".

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks Howie,

Im planning on buying the dei proximity sensor, Where would you suggest I mount it?



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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

If the hard top is to be permanent, there, other wise centre console, somehow.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

hey mike, any plans on writing up a DIY for other fellow s2kers from everything you've learned? ;)

Hey Howie I just realized I only wired up the driver door unlock motor, Could I wire in the passenger wires to the same relay. For example for both door unlock motor to one relay.

Thanks!

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Hey, Im more then willing to help answer basic questions. I will not be making a diy as doing so will enable more people to understand how our cars work and help unexperiance thefs. You can find me on s2ki user name s2000_vtec_mike.

The install at first is daunting but it is doable all the information you need is either in this thread or other threads.

I also suggest you take it to a reputable installer. Because if you wire one thing wrong it could jeopardize many components of the car. In the end coasting you more then the $100-$400 install fee.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Actually im going to wire the passenger side door motor to its own relay. Will the 15amp fuse i used for the driver Motor lock/unlock be enough for three relays ? Or should I change the fuse to 20amp.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

The 15 amp fuse is fine, it's not three relays, it's the two motors!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes two motors. Today I tried to set up three relays two for the door lock motors (Left pink-black) and (Right pink-blue) and one for LOCK. It did not work, So im going to go back and wire it up how i had the two relays before(Unlock pink-black) (LOCK yellow-Black). I am extremely tired I doubt what I wrote down made any sense. I will chime in tomorrow.

Anyways thanks Howie good night/ good morning at your time zone haha.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Without going into the wiring diagrams 'cause it's morning and I feel lazy, I think you've pulled the motor wires for the driver's door only.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You where correct howie, My colour blindness got the best of me. Befor I started to wrap everything up I made sure my doors would lock and unlock. Spent a good amount of time cleaning up under the dash and finished up.

Go to lock the doors only the driver side door locks but both doors now unlock. Something between me tucking all my wiring got mixed up. Having to go through each wire now sigh....

Hopefully its something stupid. Il re post soon.



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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Ok went back looked at every wire carefully. Each wire is where it is suppose to be and soldered etc. Im completely stomped as to why only the driver door locks. Why not passenger also.

Everything is completed except for this one thing!. Hopefully its something small.

Thanks

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Yes so now you know why I have my by-line down below

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Lol yup!. Any input though?

Doors both unlock but only drivers door locks.... :( I even swapped in a new relay to see if that was causing the problem.

Any guidance

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

anyone?

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

It was my keyless entry fuse that need to be replaced. I made probably the worst move.. In the tight space I had, I had a razor in my hand when I moved to get out I accidentally cut the compustar antenna wire. I tried to put it back together but didn't work... The three wires besides ground have not been cut its the ground wire that took most of the cut. Anyone have any experience in wiring the ground back together? Its like a coax cable around the three wires. I need to get my car out of the garage as soon as possible and to order a new wire will take two weeks.

Sigh cant

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.

Never mind the wiring is all good. Thanks everyone.

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Could not have done anything without HOWIE II.