2010 corolla 80 bit key
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=126493
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 12:18 AM
Topic: 2010 corolla 80 bit key
Posted By: latinyoungn
Subject: 2010 corolla 80 bit key
Date Posted: March 08, 2011 at 12:10 PM
Hello. I was wondering how to tell if my corolla has an 80 bit key. i've read here that they all do but viper gives me an option of with or without. is there a specific way to find out? also when i select with 80 bit key it does not give me a bypass module as if it does not need it so i am confused. thanks in advance!
Replies:
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: March 08, 2011 at 4:20 PM
Look on the silver part of the key near the head. If there is a G, it's 80bit, if there's a O it's 40bit. It will need a bypass either way, they just don't make one for the 80bit. Check Idatalink for an 80bit bypass...
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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 11:20 AM
idatalink piece will control many features through data, if you want to save the buck the fortin key-override-all will do the trick, and its already preloaded with the firmware for 80 or 40bit.
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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: latinyoungn
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 12:29 PM
thanks guys i truly appreciate your help. so i believe i have a 40 bit key since I do not have the G you guys were referring to.
I am trying to figure out which options i have for the bypass module.
viper says i should purchase the 556uw which i assume is the "key in the coffin" type module.
and i guess my only other options are the idatalink and the fortin correct?
do these function without a spare valet key?
i will do some research on these now but is idatalink easier then the others for installation? is the 556uw the hardest to work with? thanks again.
-david
Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 1:53 PM
I've done quite a few new toyota/scions using idatalink ads-al-ca. Great product easy install guides to follow
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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 4:46 PM
No G = 40bit.
Tedmond already answered your question about bypass options. tedmond wrote:
idatalink piece will control many features through data, if you want to save the buck the fortin key-override-all will do the trick, and its already preloaded with the firmware for 80 or 40bit.
If you want to stick with DEI, they have the DB-ALL and PKALL...but my vote would be for Idata. No key required for any of these. ------------- Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: latinyoungn
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 4:54 PM
im sorry, are you saying; "no, g = 40 bit" or "no g = 40 bit" im confused..
also i am getting the viper 5901 off of ebay so im looking for what ever is compatible with that unit but it does not need to be dei. as long as it works.
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 5:16 PM
Hehe...that's not a G key, so no 80bit. The 556UW is the easiest bypass because you sinply put your valet key in it. You loose the key but it is the most reliable and easiest install. Any other bypass will also work fine with the 5901. ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: blanx218
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 11:03 PM
I would go with a PKALL or Idata . Using the 556U or similar "key in a coffin" create a chance of unreliability in my eyes in cases where the antenna ring could shift. PKALL or idata and its all done thru the databus.
Posted By: latinyoungn
Date Posted: March 10, 2011 at 9:35 AM
thanks. so im leaning towards the pkall and the idatalink however i was reading that the idata needs to be flashed prior to working and it costs a bit more then the pkall.
from what i understand the dball and idata need to be flashed because they work with the data bus while the pkall is wire to wire so it does not need to be flashed is that correct? how much time/wires do you think the dball saves and is it worth the extra money (about $20 more)
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: March 10, 2011 at 10:18 AM
Not worth it. There isn't a wire in this car that isn't easy to get to. The only advantage of a Can module from Idata is the factory remotes still work when the remote start is on. If you want this option then that's the way to go...
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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: latinyoungn
Date Posted: March 10, 2011 at 11:16 AM
thanks mike.
do you know if the pkall requires imi/imo connections? i dont see it in the manual.
Posted By: blanx218
Date Posted: March 10, 2011 at 11:26 AM
The PKALL is all done right at the steering column. Its cake to put in
Posted By: latinyoungn
Date Posted: March 10, 2011 at 11:29 AM
sounds good to me. my last question is does the pkall need to be flashed or is it good to go out of the box
Posted By: Satkunas
Date Posted: March 10, 2011 at 11:40 AM
It's Preloaded.
Good to go right out-of-the-box.
Posted By: latinyoungn
Date Posted: March 10, 2011 at 11:43 AM
thanks guys. I am going to pull the trigger on the 5901 + PKALL. if it doesnt work ill be sure to have more questions  ! lol
-dave
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: March 10, 2011 at 5:59 PM
Remember, there are 2 wiring diagrams for this car depending on where it was made. The Canadian model and the Japan model look identical but the color codes are different...
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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: latinyoungn
Date Posted: March 22, 2011 at 2:02 PM
I am unable to find the trunk release wire. tried light green as well as pink and cannot find it. does anyone have an idea where it could be?
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: March 22, 2011 at 4:32 PM
| Trunk Release Motor |
pink (USA/CAN made) or red (Japan made) |
5 wire |
driver kick, white 13 pin plug, pin 2 |
------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: blanx218
Date Posted: March 22, 2011 at 4:34 PM
Does the car have factory keyless entry? If it doesn't you won't find it. If it does it would be in the DKP in the harness to the rear of the vehicle. Did one of these the other day that didnt have keyless and the wire didnt exist.
Posted By: latinyoungn
Date Posted: March 24, 2011 at 9:53 AM
i have a few questions
to get the rear defroster working is it as easy as connecting one wire?
to get the windows to roll up/down would I need a module for this car?
I was told that I should not connect the Hood pin because of rust issues. is this true and is it safe to leave it unconnected?
my built in shock sensor sucks pretty bad (haven't been able to set it off) is this the general case for these alarms?
lastly, this car has a feature that when you go to start the car with a key it automatically takes over cranks however long it feels necessary. can i take advantage of this with the remote start so I dont over crank?
thanks!
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: March 24, 2011 at 5:02 PM
Defrost- defogger switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 2 or white 40 pin plug, pin 38. It need a latched ground to control it, set for 8 minutes.
Yes, you do need a module for windows.
Yes, you should connect a hood pin. Whether you do is up to you.
Maybe your shock sensor simply needs adjusting.
Don't worry about over crank, can't happen... ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 24, 2011 at 5:35 PM
Re - Hood Pin
An alternative to the hood pin switch is a "mercury switch" or tilt switch. Newer ones use a roller ball instead of mercury. No holes to drill and they don't rust and seize up. They work well in flat terrain but can be a bad choice in places like San Fransisco where the vehicle could be parked on a steep hill.
Search on AU-46 or DEI 8613. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: skoss
Date Posted: March 24, 2011 at 11:44 PM
been doing this along time use key override all,best price and reliability
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