2011 expedition park kill / battery saver

I am looking for 2 signals:

Park / neutral or just park
Battery saver circuit

They can be hot or ground, either direction, as they are going to attached to relays

I am building a police car, and havent done an expedition since 09, and I am drawing a blank. I think the park kill is in the top of the column somewhere.

Any help would be appreciated!!

As for battery saver, the MW728 is commonly available (typically ~$20) though it has a standby current of (I think) 10mA and a current limit of 10A. Though both can be overcome with extra relay(s) as can its 11.2V off voltage be increased with an external diode.
It plugs into the cig-socket but that is easy to change.

There are other low-voltage cut-outs on the web if you can DIY. Some have very low standby currents. [Keep in mind that even with output or relay off, they still sense and draw current. With extra relay(s), they cut their own power, then manually reset else automatically reset (on) by the alternator or IGN relay etc.]



I'm curious - are you using dual batteries?
If so, I am interested in what isolator you are using (ie, to isolate the batteries when not being charged etc)?

The park neutral will also be one of the engine management pin-outs.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

It's a single battery in this vehicle.

It's a shame ford doesn't provide the blunt cut wires (hot, ign, bat saver, vss, park kill) like they do in the crown vics. They make u hunt for them and there is not documentation in the upfitters manual.

I use the battery saver circuit to a 75a relay that kills all of the aftermarket / police equipment. The computer / modem / etc all have small standby draws that will kill the battery in about 2 days if the car sits. For an aftermarket "timer", my preference is charge guard. They are around $60.00. I was trying to save $60 and use the bat saver circuit.

As for the park/kill, any idea which pin, etc. I cant find a schematic/ etc on the web.

hi,
park wire...should be able to use the key release or brake shift interlock wiring. you didn't state column or floor shift. blue/orange @ shift interlock or WHITE/ brown @ key release solenoid, column and floor shift respectively. both at steering column area.
battery saver...YELLOW /GREEN at glove box light or SJB connector.
hope this helps
m

chiarlanza wrote:

---

I was trying to save $60 and use the bat saver circuit.

---

Though I'd be tempted for a battery saver in case of unexpecteted flattening (ie, ~$20 plus the 75A relay), I'd recommend a timer.

It's better disconnecting after "x-hours" than waiting for the battery to discharge (you may be replacing the battery 3 time LESS often).

And timer circuits are not difficult nor expensive.

Ween:  Thanks.. Just what I am looking for!  it's a SSV with the column shift.

The 75 Amp relay is a given, but i prefer to use the battery saver in lieu of  a timer because i dont necessarly want the computer / modem / flashlights to shut off unless, unless the battery saver shuts down.. The battery saver is what drives the relay.  The timer is just another point of failure that i don't want to add to the mix in a front line vehicle.   So far so good w/ the 75A relay and BS circuit in the crown vics..

I Why can't ford just document this in the SSV modifier's guide. They do for the Crown Vic, but wait, they killed the crown vic.. Well see what's in store for next years models...

Thanks again!!

I was merely looking at it from a battery life and hence cost POV.
Though a timer should not be another POF - if designed that way the timer would be preferable to the voltage sensing (since that is somewhat complex...).

But a true emergency vehicle would (or should!) have dual batteries anyhow with a typical isolator (not diode!).
Whether to protect the 2nd battery or not is then optional...

I totally agree with the 2nd battery, but that's not my call on this car. When I spec them out (usually Tahoes), it gets the 2nd battery from the dealer. The police prepped Tahoe already has the battery isolated!

Don't get me wrong, most Chevys I upfit get a timer, (charge guard) but i have better luck with the bat saver circuit in the Fords for some reason.

Whenever something breaks or is related to anything electrical, the first thing cops do is blame the upfitter, so I try to keep it the same within brands / departments.

If it were my car, I'd have a Lighted SPST switch drive the relay. On-off... Simple

I'm curious - do you know what type of isolator they use?
The reason is a recent thread involving diode isolators which went out of favor years ago. However I struck one standard (Ambulance, Florida) that mandated them (despite their schematics contradicting that same mandate!).
I'd assume your vehicles would use a relay isolator, and automated by voltage sensing else (not-)chargeLight.
(Else a purely hard-isolated spare battery?)


I know Ford here had a terrible time with batteries. They would often EXPLODE after ~8 months in taxis. So down under here, after a few months the battery would flatten (premature aging) before any x-hour timer would disconnect them.
Ford have since seen fit to mount them up front else vented with cool air - NOT in the center next to the exhaust. (Ford TQM indeed!)