wire keyless entry system for other use

Hello all- am new here but have found many topics in the forums very helpful.

I'm on a quest to utilize a wireless system (i presume this should be a keyless entry) to activate a servo for movement one way (fwd) then the other way (reverse) on a 12v system. Most common servos operate 4.8-6V and must be modified to move the 180 degrees i'm looking for. So far I'm using a DPDT 6 pole switch to reverse polarity and also using a small LED switch to activate when servo is in a certain position- and I've incorporated a 5W 33ohm resistor (to bring the volts down?). This all works fine WIRED.

So i purchased some basic AutoPage alarm and tinkered a bit until i found that i could wire my 2 servo wires to it (to it's pulse generating two output wires), ground and power it, and MUALA - push the remote lock button and servo moved one way-pushed other remote unlock button and servo moved the other way. It worked!!!!~ Problem is that this alarm system is way more sophisticated than i need (motion detection, multiple door wiring, trunk, lights, siren, etc + both remotes come with like 5 buttons. I found it pushes like 9V but in a quick burst to my servo- seems to work. I tested it with the resistor in line and it worked just fine- a little slower, but fine.

I bought an off-brand chinese 'keyless entry' kit. Im obviously not knowledgable in this field of electronics--- but i cannot seem to get this to work- i can get no real detectable power coming from any leads, and one remote just doesn't even seem to do anything... the other makes it click.

I'm writing for help- perhaps a cheap product recommendation (simple and with remotes that only have two buttons) and/or some help in wiring considerations.

Thanks very much for reading and i look forward to any input.


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stone

Chances are the keyless module you purchased has only a negative output for the door lock system.  You will have to use 2 relays in order to get what you are after.

Actuators / Reverse Polarity

This is practically identical to the 5 wire alternating 12V(+) system above. The only difference is there's no switch! Both motor legs rest at ground at the relays. To lock or unlock the vehicle, polarity is changed on one motor leg.

thank you but i went through all that and to no avail. i put voltmeter on all leads coming from the system and only got like a .4 of one volt to pop only under like two scenarios while pushing the remote, and with the two relays as you mentioned i got same or less going out to my servo. I'm thinking the system was bad.... but thank you.

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stone

Red meter lead on a positive 12 volt source. Black meter lead on the unlock wire of the keyless entry module. Press lock or unlock and notice the voltage. Then black lead to the lock wire of the keyless module. Lock and unlock it and notice the voltage.

just tried that- no changes to report- no readings. this generic entry system does have some trunk/door side pins on it that have jumpers- the one on the right has two sets of pins and the one on the left has one set- on the left the lower pin reads 4.97 at all times. On the right the upper outer one reads 12.97 at all times. No changes on any readings when remote buttons are pressed...... aaaahhhahharrraggghhh


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stone

I think the answer is the following:-
Most keyless entry systems from "reputable companies" such as Compustar, DEI, Audiovox group, Autopage etc. have basic K/E systems with relay driven outputs, look in the specs. or "6 wire lock output" with these you can replace the switch (or even leave it in) using "add actuator" or "5 wire switch" methods, i.e. splice into the motor leads.
As in other walks of life you get what you pay for.
Avoid anything with vague or "Chinglish" instructions.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The cost factor is that the above systems tend to be identical to some of the alarms without a siren and sensor, hence the cost.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Viper 211HV.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hello- I am using a keyless entry system to actuate a servo one direction or the other based on remote button pushes. After some trial and error I do have this system working and am fairly happy. These servos are only 4.8-6V and I'm running all this on 12V. The servos are modified so that I'm only using the motor, gears, and casing, and not utilizing servo's pulse capabilities... That being said, the servo motors can and do seem to take the full 12V even if it's only a quick little pulse from the keyless entry system, however, the motor moving faster at 12V just tears up all the gears and destroys the modified servo...

I had been using a 5 watt 33 ohm resistor on my lead coming from the + battery BEFORE the keyless entry system. The 5 watt 33 ohm is what I was told by a source.. Is this correct? And, would I be better off putting TWO of those resistors on my TWO servo leads- one on each side? and Leaving the + lead from the battery to the keyless system alone at full 12V. Which is better?

thx much

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stone

Hello- I am using a keyless entry system to actuate a servo one direction or the other based on remote button pushes. After some trial and error I do have this system working and am fairly happy. These servos are only 4.8-6V and I'm running all this on 12V. The servos are modified so that I'm only using the motor, gears, and casing, and not utilizing servo's pulse capabilities... That being said, the servo motors can and do seem to take the full 12V even if it's only a quick little pulse from the keyless entry system, however, the motor moving faster at 12V just tears up all the gears and destroys the modified servo...

I had been using a 5 watt 33 ohm resistor on my lead coming from the + battery BEFORE the keyless entry system. The 5 watt 33 ohm is what I was told by a source.. Is this correct? And, would I be better off putting TWO of those resistors on my TWO servo leads- one on each side? and Leaving the + lead from the battery to the keyless system alone at full 12V. Which is better?

thx much

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stone

You might have a cost factor involved but running a DC-DC converter might be better or cheaper in the long run to swap your servo for a 12 volt version.
If you put a resistor on both motor wires, I've a feeling it won't work, though for the cost of a resistor it's worth trying.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Plan be would be to keep the keyless entry on 12 volts, reconfigure the lock outputs to neg, run a pair of relays from a 5/6 volt power source to the motors, that's the safest bet, see diagram:-
servo.bmp

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

It won't matter.

Resistors don't resist voltage, the resist current. You're keyless entry system is still getting 12vdc, it's just limiting the current to 363mA.

If you put a resistor on both motor leads it would be the same as putting a 66 ohm on one lead - reducing current to 181mA.

In an ideal scenario you would have a secondary 5vdc power supply (like a 7805) and then use NPN transistors to drive the (-) sides of the motor at 5vdc. A few more components but you'll be able to run the motors at their rated voltage without having to reduce their current.

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Kevin Pierson

Thanks for clearing that up Kevin, I KNEW that somewhere there was a reason for not using a resistor, apart from the fire risk, so effectively my diagram was correct, using the relays to switch 5-6 volts.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

In fact if it is a 6 wire internal relay driven unit, our poster might get away without external relays.
Could the poster give us the lock wires, colours and status please?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I hope this image post comes out right. I also have a video of it working at:https://youtu.be/dZ46dPnjlgU

My last question at this point regards the use of 1 resistor on the + battery lead or using 2 resistors (one on each side of servo motor lead)?

If my memory serves me correctly.... from the system I've wired as such: black to batt neg, red to batt +, pink and purple nothing, yellow and yellow/black to neg/ground, orange and ORANGE / black to pos, my servo motor one to white and other to WHITE/ black. I did not use relays. My resistor is currently inline to the batt + 5 Watt 33 ohm. Leave it here? is it the right size? or put two of them on the servo leads? Below are some specs on the servo (though it has been modified)


Please advise on use of proper resistor. FYI- the motors seem to be able to handle the full 12V car system but after a couple of turns the metal geared motors just destroy the inner gearing on the servos.
Again- thx much for help.


Control System: +Pulse Width Control 1500usec Neutral
Required Pulse: 3-5 Volt Peak to Peak Square Wave
Operating Voltage: 4.8-6.0 Volts
Operating Temperature Range: -20 to +60 Degree C
Operating Speed (4.8V): 0.19sec/60° at no load
Operating Speed (6.0V): 0.15sec/60° at no load
Stall Torque (4.8V): 42 oz/in (3.0 kg/cm)
Stall Torque (6.0V): 51 oz/in (3.7 kg/cm)
Current Drain (4.8V): 7.4mA/idle, 160mA no load operating
Current Drain (6.0V): 7.7mA/idle, 180mA no load operating

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stone

We told you NOT to use resistors, it won't work, also a super fire risk if not fused.
Stop getting wrong ideas, read what K.P. and I wrote, take it in and your problem will be solved.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.