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03 caddy seville clifford1.2 not engaging

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=129435
Printed Date: June 08, 2024 at 5:05 AM


Topic: 03 caddy seville clifford1.2 not engaging

Posted By: darinus
Subject: 03 caddy seville clifford1.2 not engaging
Date Posted: November 28, 2011 at 10:27 PM

This weekend I tried to install a Clifford 1.2x Remote Starter into my 2003 Cadillac Seville SLS. I hooked up all of the wires according to the 2000 wiring I found on this site. The wires were hooked up at the ignition switch. To reach these wires I entered through the radio/climate control. The I did a test run and the car started right up. After I reinstalled the radio/climate control systems, I tried again and the remote starter turned only some of the ignition on, while leaving the rest off (such as the half dash cluster and starter), resulting in a no start start condition.

I am not sure what the problem could be, I have installed a few units in the passed and I remember the wires being of thicker gauge. I am beginning to suspect that these wires are to actuate relays. Has anyone had this problem? Am I connecting at the wrong location? Can somebody please post the wiring for this car or at least confirm if the 2000 Cadillac Seville is similar to the 2003 Cadillac Seville SLS?

Any help is greatly appreciated!



Replies:

Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: November 29, 2011 at 6:44 AM
1998-2004 Seville should be all the same.

Before you take the radio back out, you can probably just go right to the brain of the remote starter, and probe and test the pins for the wires that run up to the ignition switch.   Test them while turning the car's key.

Test all of them---both constant wires, ignitions, accessory, and starter.

If some of them don't test right, check for a blown ignition switch fuse (either under the hood or under the back seat; check owner's manual).

If it's not a blown fuse, take the radio back out and test for faulty connections at the ignition switch.




Posted By: darinus
Date Posted: November 29, 2011 at 6:27 PM
Chris I believe all the wires are correct since it does start up w/o the radio I think I am not getting enough power to the module to actually start the car. I found a post for a 2003 Seville STS that reads 2003 Seville Sts

"12 Volts-Orange + Ignition Harness This is a low current 12V source that should not be used to drive any high current positive circuits.
Second 12 Volts-ORANGE / Black + Ignition Harness"

I do not have the ORANGE / black wire.

I do however have 2 orange wires that connect to the A pin on the black plug. I have connected only one of those wires, should I connect 2? Or maybe I should run a fused line direct from the battery?

The wires at the switch are a thin gauge. Is this a problem since the Starter module has such large gauge wires in comparison?

Thanks for your help!





Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: November 30, 2011 at 7:30 AM
I have a 2000 Deville DTS, which is basically the same car with a different interior, dash, and body---but it's the same platform.

I've worked on plenty of these cars before---Seville, Deville, LeSabre, Bonneville.....they're all the same.

I've always grabbed my constant power at the ignition switch with no problems.

If you're doing anything that draws a lot of power like multiple sirens, window rollup modules, air horns, et cetera, then you'd want to get power from somewhere else.

Besides, if you tried to draw too much power from the wiring at the ignition switch, you would have blown the car's fuse that feeds the switch and it wouldn't even start with the key......no, if it still starts/runs by key, you should be OK.

But we have to install stuff by testing, not by what we "believe."

You'll definitely need to get in there and test if you want to fix it.

Take note that there are often two or more orange wires in there. One is the accessory that powers the heater, and there will probably be one (or two) more that are constant power. It's easy to get these reversed by accident.




Posted By: darinus
Date Posted: November 30, 2011 at 9:33 PM
Its just a basic remote start, no alarms sirens etc.
At one point I did blow the ignition fuse but I had the same problem before and after replacing the fuse. I wont be able to get in there until Saturday, I will double check and test all of the wires again. If I still have an issue, I will run a wire from the battery just to see if it helps any. I know these cars depend on the radio for the cars electronics, so I think when the radio is connected it draws too much current and thus not engaging. I will let update you with my finding s this weekend.

Thanks again,




Posted By: darinus
Date Posted: January 13, 2012 at 6:48 PM
okay sorry for the delay, been pretty busy the passed few weeks.

So I ended running a fused line from the battery over to the constant and the unit starts up but only with the key touching the ignition. I have the XK06 module, flashed with the PKG5. I have it wired correctly, and the LED shows constant red. I cant get it to flash 4 time to show it programmed. I flashed it several times, with the PXLR and the PKG5. the unit is hooked up with the purple wire to the OBDII plug. I also reset the unit several times.

Any ideas?




Posted By: darinus
Date Posted: January 16, 2012 at 2:20 PM
Anyone?





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