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clifford 50.7x vs clifford 1.3x

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=129558
Printed Date: May 17, 2024 at 10:38 PM


Topic: clifford 50.7x vs clifford 1.3x

Posted By: rgullett83
Subject: clifford 50.7x vs clifford 1.3x
Date Posted: December 06, 2011 at 3:38 AM

Hi all.  I ordered a Clifford 1.3x, but received the clifford 50.7x.  I didnt really want the added alarm, but since I have it was looking for opinions, as to keep the 50.7x or get the 1.3x.  I am installing this in my wifes 05 yukon.  I also ordered an Idatalink ADSAL GM1 for the install.  So whats your thoughts?



Replies:

Posted By: rgullett83
Date Posted: December 06, 2011 at 7:59 AM
I guess i should also ask, can I install the 50.7x, and not install any of the alarm portion, and have no troubles, with the remote start operation?




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 06, 2011 at 4:14 PM
yes you can do that. but since you got a 50.7x just wire it all up. added security is a nice feature.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: rgullett83
Date Posted: December 06, 2011 at 11:48 PM
Yah I may as well do that, the added distance and lcd remote are a plus also.




Posted By: rgullett83
Date Posted: December 12, 2011 at 10:39 PM
Hope to start install soon, looking at it all trying to decide what all has to be wired up.  never done an install on a vehicle this new and using a bypass module




Posted By: rgullett83
Date Posted: December 18, 2011 at 9:47 PM
 ok I know I am a noobie to the forum, going to begin installing wed evening after work, will anybody respond should I need to ask a question?




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 19, 2011 at 7:02 AM

I'll be around. I have installed Viper 5701, not used an iDataLink product yet. How much time are you planning for this install?



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Posted By: rgullett83
Date Posted: December 19, 2011 at 8:47 PM
as much time as needed, would like to have it done thursday morning or early afternoon.  thanks for the reply, I was kind of just makin sure someone was seeing my posts ;)




Posted By: rgullett83
Date Posted: December 21, 2011 at 10:40 PM
Well the install is not going very well, I have temporarily wired it, (not soldered yet), to verify everything works.  Not much works at all.  At first, I was trying to use the idatalink with out hardwiring, that didnt work so I hard wired it, the doors lock and it arms the oem security, but it does not unlock the doors(does disarm oem security).  The remote start does not operate at all, it does not even try to activate voltage to the ignition inputs on the vehicle.  When I go thru the trouble shooting, I find that it is in manual transmission mode, and I cant get it to let me in to the programming menu to change it.  Any suggestions?




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 22, 2011 at 7:18 AM

https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

 The above link is a wiring diagram GUIDE. It may not match up to your vehicle so you need to test and verify each wire you are connecting to with a DMM.  The Viper 5701 install manual, in the downloads section of this site, has a section in it as to finding the wires you need if you are not sure of how to test for Ignition, Acc, Starter wires.     

Your heavy gauge harness:  H3/2, H3/6, H3/9, and H1/2,  as well for power for the bypass, will go to the wire that tests as 12 volts constant.  H3/1 will go to Ignition 1,  H3/7 will go to Ignition 2,  H3/3 will go to the wire that test as Accessory.  Your starter wire will use H3/4 and H3/5 if you cut the starter wire, OR!! Just H3/4 if you don't want to cut the starter wire. Tape the end of H3/5 if not used.   When you have found the wires you need, take it one wire at a time, connect it, Solder it, Tape it, and move on to the next wire.

H1/5 and BLACK/ White (Neutral Safety Switch Input) to a good ground.  Make sure the toggle switch is installed and in the ON position.

Getting to the menu for changing to automatic can be a bit of a challange as you must have a door trigger connected and the H3/1 connected.  On page 60 of the Viper 5701 Install Manual is the explaination of how to access the menu system and make changes.  Menu 3, Item 1, Option 2 is the Automatic setting.



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Posted By: rgullett83
Date Posted: December 22, 2011 at 7:37 AM

thanks smokeman1, I will double check my heavy guage wiring again.  as far as entering programming mode, and having a door trigger, the idatalink should provide signal to the r/s module that the door is open correct?





Posted By: rgullett83
Date Posted: December 22, 2011 at 5:27 PM

all soldered in, locks work, remote start works.  However I have a toggle switch wired to the PURPLE / black wire on the idatalink, connected to ground, to run the heated seats upon a remote start, but they do not turn on unless i toggle the switch.  any suggestions?





Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 22, 2011 at 6:21 PM

Not sure. Never used an iDataLink. On page 6 of the bypass instructions is a Note about heated accessories using the PURPLE / black wire.  I don't think you should be using the toggle switch.  Suprised it starts without it plugged in to the Clifford brain.

What diagram for the idatalink are you using?



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When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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Posted By: rgullett83
Date Posted: December 22, 2011 at 10:11 PM
the idatalink is plugged in to the clifford, but I had to hard wire the the door lock/unlock outputs, door triggers, and ign 1 input for the idatalink.  It wouldnt work in data to data mode.  I used a switch as shown in the idatalinks instructions, to break the circuit for warm weather, when you would not heated seats on during a remote start.  I dont have a tach input, but have not had any issues with it remote starting, except for once, it didnt crank long enuff on the first attempt to start, but did on the second attempt.




Posted By: rgullett83
Date Posted: December 22, 2011 at 10:12 PM
also, thanks for the help so far smokeman




Posted By: jonyb
Date Posted: December 23, 2011 at 9:44 PM

rgullett, what part of Illinois are you from?  I'm 3 miles south of the Southern-most tip of Illinois, in KY, if you need a hand.

the idata module is a good one.  You've done right with the switch.  When the switch is on, heated seats are activated on remote start.  When it's off, they aren't activated. 

What other problems are you having?

Which idata module did you have?  If it was in the reddish/orange box, you have to hard-wire all connections.  If it was in a green box, you can use the data cable (rs232).  When you use the data cable, all the dotted lines, and red lines don't have to be connected to the remote start, only using wires that go out to the truck, and also the other wires from the remote start brain that are required.





Posted By: rgullett83
Date Posted: December 23, 2011 at 10:59 PM
I am in robinson.  No problems other than the heated seats dont turn on with remote start, I have the PURPLE / black wire hooked up to a switch and ground, if I toggle the switch they will turn on. I have the ads alsl gm1, I think its the solo series i used the data cable, but still hardwired the rest, except tach output. I had some issues figuring out the quick reference guide's wiring, it was kind of vague from my point of view, a full install manual would have been nice.  By the way I went with this setup after reading a thread on dieselplace, that you provided a lot of good info in.




Posted By: jonyb
Date Posted: December 24, 2011 at 1:43 AM

You should be able to leave the toggle on all Winter.  When it's on, the seats should activate on remote start everytime.  At least that's how it works in my truck.

I've been trying to get some answers on idata's forums about whether or not to connect the wires that are red in the legend.  They also show that the RS232 port is available on the Solo Series modules, but they can't be wired that way.  That may be where you had the trouble.



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John Bauer
Pro Installz
Paducah, KY




Posted By: rgullett83
Date Posted: December 25, 2011 at 10:42 PM
I still used the rs 232 port, and hardwired the rest, maybe that is causing me some issues, but not for sure.  I have a question about the pit stop mode, set the e brake, activate the remote start with the key fob, remove key and get out of the vehicle, and it shuts off about 10 sec after the key is removed, and then goes ahead and remote starts.  I am a little confused by that got any suggestions?





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