2010 dodge caliber, fortin evo chr

I have a 2010 Caliber in my garage at the moment for a remote start install tomorrow. All was fine and dandy during the prep, but upon going out to the car I noticed that the T-harness that came with my Evo-All was not the same plug. I look at it closer and the bypass I ordered with the CHR2 T-harness came with the CHR1 harness instead. So now I'm in a pickle b/c this is a christmas gift so I really don't want to call my customer and tell them I can't do it... that and I guarantee that if I do tell them that, I will lose the install.. and being that I do this all on the side, I'm out the cost of the starter and the bypass.... which would really suck.

So my question is, can anyone tell me if I can hardwire the connections and what connections need to go where??? A direct pin-out from the Evo-All to the factory harness would be ideal, but any info is greatly appreciated. Please help me help my customer.. lol.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

If its the EVO-all then here is the link from fortin. Caliber is connection type 1.

https://ifar.ca/en/download/3544/preview.html

Hopefully this helps you...

No, its the Evo-CHR. But thanks for the try.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

The EVO-CHR is available through some distributors with either the THAR-CHR1 or THAR-CHR2. It's probably not a mistake that your EVO-CHR came with the THAR-CHR1 instead of the THAR-CHR2.

Fortin doesn't provide a pin-out for either harness because any installation error could cause irreparable damage to the vehicles electronics. The T-Harnesses still haven't changed since they were available more than 2 years ago, so they've proven themselves to be very reliable. I highly recommend that you get your hands on the right T-Harness instead of trying to DIY the harness yourself.

The THAR-CHR2 harness can be purchased separately from the module, so it should be possible to get them delivered before the 25th.

If your remote starter is Fortin datalink compatible you could prewire the majority the installation and complete the install in about 5minutes once the right harness arrives.

The guide you want is here: https://ifar.ca/en/download/3812/preview.html

All is well. After calling around for almost an hour, I decided to take a drive to my Audio Obsessions (local shop) and they hooked me up very nicely with the right harness. Put it all in and holy crap was that the easiest install I've ever done.. lol.
It was a much much easier solution than the old relays and resistors method.

Thanks for the help!

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

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Put it all in and holy crap was that the easiest install I've ever done.. lol.
It was a much much easier solution than the old relays and resistors method.

Thanks for the help!

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You'll love the new THAR-GM1 with the EVO-ALL too then! ;)

I'm glad everything worked out :)

I'll have to look into it. Thanks for the info.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

One quick question on these. Where do you guys normally get your 12v+ from. I remember in the old days of relays upon relays it was recommended to go to the battery (although I admit, I did go to the ignition for power on some occasions and never had a problem). For the one I did today I went to the battery but getting through the firewall was a royal PITA. I had to go out the side (along with the main BCM wires) and pull off the inner fender liner to get the wire out and up to the front. Didn't know if there was a better / easier place to get the 12v constant.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I assume you're asking about the Chrysler's.

12v source is taken from the ignition switch. This assumes that you're connecting the RS/A to the low current (-) park-light. If you use the high current (+) park-light then 12v should be taken from a higher current source which can be grabbed either at the battery, kick-panel, or fuse-panel (depending on the vehicle).

If you've seen the EVO-CHR installation video you'll notice that the remote-starter used in it gets its 12v and ground through the datalink cable from the EVO-CHR. Using a RS/A which is Fortin datalink compatible is by far the easiest and quickest way of installing this piece.

Thats good to know. I had a feeling that going to the ignition was ok with the new bypasses being that pretty much everything was data now. I'll keep that in mind. I ended up using the high current parking light on this one so it was better going to the battery anyways. But thanks for the info!

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

on the 2008+ domestics there is a high current 12v source in the passenger side kick panel. thats where i grab my power. You can use the 12v at the ign source but you got to lower the fuse rating down to 10amps.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

In those cars Its easiest to drill a hole through the firewall and run a grommet. There are a couple jeeps that are the same way. Above the accelerator has the most real estate to make a hole. I'm thinking patriot and compass are the same way.

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Advanced

I avoid drilling on any vehicle unless it's a must. Just dont want to risk damaging some chit while drilling outward, even though i know that area is clear.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert