Printer Friendly Forum Posts - remote start, 2010 accord?

Car: 2010 Honda Accord EX-L V6 (Gen8)
Alarm: Viper 5901 with dball

Currently my HVAC and Radio turn on automatically when I remote start. the Honda HVAC and Radio assembly is fairly integrated.

How can I turn my radio OFF or volume all the way down when I RS but not the climate control? Looking at the vehicle service manual, I see a connection called Audio Remote Switch which is a PNK wire in the main 24-pin audio connector.

Does anybody know if there is a controllable radio only signal preferably closer to the steering column?

Don't power the second acc at the ignition . And the radio won't come on

I believe I only have a Accessory1 connection and this powers both the HVAC and Radio

Oh shoot, your right. I have both acc1 and acc2 connected to my RS. So, HVAC is acc1 and radio is acc2?

How about you turn off the radio before you exit the vehicle?

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jstruckman wrote:

How about you turn off the radio before you exit the vehicle?

I never remember. I'd prefer to use the wonderful technology that is electronics to handle it for my feeble and forgetful mind :)

dont power on second acc and you wont have a problem. if you want to hook up the defrost, you will need to power the second acc.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Shoot, I was planning to use the defrost. Oh well, I'd rather give up the defrost to achieve the radio staying off.

I'm pretty sure that audio remote switch wire PNK is the remote amplifier/antenna/antenna booster (one or all)and goes to 12v+ when the radio is turned on.
The only way to achieve this would be to use your status, A.K.A. GWR wire, branch off via a 1N4004 diode in line to a relay (or use the 2nd. status output if there is one).
Then find the radio ACC wire, either at radio loom or exiting a fuse box (fuse marked radio) and cut it:-
Status to 85, diode band to 5901.
12v+ constant fused at 3 amps to 86.
87 don't use.
87a from source.
30 to radio.
That well give you your defrost etc. and automatically power down the radio when the R/S is activated.
And I'm guessing you will loose the RAP function from the R/S.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes, you will have to wire in a relay like Howie said. But you have to ask yourself if it is really worth it. Anytime you cut a wire, no matter how good your connection is, you've created a weakpoint in the system. There is not a chance of that relay going out and then you have no radio until you replace it. What is the reasoning for wanting to kill the radio when remote starting? Even I leave the volume up sometimes on my car but it never seems to be enough to cause that much noise outside the car...

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

The truth is most pros don't have loud radios, in fact mine's never on, Google maps on my Android which is hard wired into a Brodit holder in the car giving me traffic etc. through the Bluetooth, a GPS camera alert plus phone calls, who needs a radio? Enough distractions anyway.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

The truth is most pros don't have loud radios, in fact mine's never on, Google maps on my Android which is hard wired into a Brodit holder in the car giving me traffic etc. through the Bluetooth, a GPS camera alert plus phone calls, who needs a radio? Enough distractions anyway.

Haha... truth! I actually have a very nice setup in my car that has the ability to be extremely loud but I have it tuned 100% for quality so its barely turned up (sub wise). The only time I ever listen to it somewhat loud is in the summer with the windows down when I'm cruising around enjoying the weather.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

You're obviously much, much younger, Kenny.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

offroadzj wrote:

howie ll wrote:

The truth is most pros don't have loud radios, in fact mine's never on, Google maps on my Android which is hard wired into a Brodit holder in the car giving me traffic etc. through the Bluetooth, a GPS camera alert plus phone calls, who needs a radio? Enough distractions anyway.

Haha... truth! I actually have a very nice setup in my car that has the ability to be extremely loud but I have it tuned 100% for quality so its barely turned up (sub wise). The only time I ever listen to it somewhat loud is in the summer with the windows down when I'm cruising around enjoying the weather.

that is true, in my own car its a SQ setup and my daily listening volume is never over 30 percent.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Let's be honest my grandchildren are now teenagers, I lost touch with "the music scene" about 10 years ago, I don't recognise any one on MTV bass any more, all my collection is on the phone, I only ever had the radio on for traffic info and that's sooo outdated now.
Only thing I did was to chuck in a top end but old Alpine and throw away the Nissan rubbish in the front doors and replace with spacers and MB Quart speakers.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

haha.

I don't listen to my music very loud either. I have a SQ setup as well
but the music is audible outside of the car even with some deadening material in the doors and the volume at like 10-15 (about a loud speaking voice). Seems to mostly come from the 6.5" speakers in the doors.

In any case, I'm thinking I'll be OK with loosing the rear defrost. That's where I'm currently leaning.

By the way, could you do something similar with a relay to manage the rear defrost (versus the radio)? IE Use the status to ensure 12V is applied to the rear defrost electronics?

didn't you say earlier that you only had 1 accessory wire at the ignition switch? If so that is probably running both your HVAC and radio. So eliminating that will eliminate your heat from turning on during remote start...

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Initially I assumed there was only one accessory at the ignition, but was incorrect. There are indeed two.

I plan to disconnect the second accessory and my understanding is I'll loose the radio (perfect) and the rear defrost will also become a casualty (not preferred but acceptable).

You can still do the rear defrost thus:-
Find the wire going to the HRW that goes to 12V+ when the HRW is activated, cut it then:
timed aux out put or linked to RS or GWR to relay 85.
Constant 12V+ fused at 20 amps to 86 and 87.
Car side of cut wire to 87a.
HRW side to 30.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry, what does HRW stand for?

Is this 12v wire likely to be in either the passenger or driver fuse box? I'm going to break out the service manual and see if I can track this down.

HRW = rear defogger.*
It's quicker to trace it back from the HRW through the car. It's the HOT or 12v+ feed wire to the rear window.
* Like bumper =fender, hood =bonnet, boot = trunk.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

lol @ boot\bonnet\bumper. Never knew ;)

I sure hope the wiring is exposed on the rear window. Having recently disassembled the rear shelf, I would probably bail out on the rear defrost..err defogger before having to do that one again.

So basically, I should expect a +12V constant supplied by the Accessory switch, a ground, and then the control signal going into the HRW? I believe the REAR DEFROST (-) control signal is located near the driver fuse box. Once 12V is properly applied does the defrost need to be pulsed or latched to ground?

I busted out my service manual and having looked at the circuit diagram, I'm thinking this rear defrost is going to work with only ACCESSORY1 (Orange) hooked up.

The rear defrost SPST relay under the hood has the positive coil end supplied through Fuse #16 which is supplied via the Orange Accessory 1 wire. The fused end should be a light green wire located in the driver side fuse box. The negative coil end is controlled by the Brown lead located in the driver side fuse box.
The 12V power is a GRN lead that probably travels up the left hand side of the car to the rear deck near the left speaker. I don't think i'll need to access this directly.

The 5501 that I'm dealing with has a 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER output that starts 10 seconds after remote start and stays on latched for 60 seconds. Perhaps a slightly more elegant method would be to use the pulse mode instead and trigger the car's actual rear defrost switch which will cause the normal activity...rear defrost light comes on, car has its own 60 second timer...etc.

I'll test this all as I go. Plan to start my install this weekend.

Got everything hooked up and working this weekend, but I'm trying to identify the rear defrost(-) signal wire but can't seem to get it identified. Not get it to work....just ID the right wire.

There appear to be three light green connectors in the drivers side fuse box. One very large one in the middle, one towards the top, and one at the bottom.

The wire list photos in the download section of this site says the wire is brown. The upper harness has a brown wire which is the front left door pin.

This leaves the brown pin in the bottom green connector. If I turn the ignition (no R/S involved) to fully on position, I measure 0.7VDC. If I hit the rear defrost button on the HVAC center console, the voltage level doesn't change.

Looking at the car wiring diagram, the negative relay coil end is indeed connected through a diode so the 0.7V part makes sense. However, there seems to be no change in this control line when the rear defrost button is toggled. The positive coil end is fused and connected to the ACC1 wire, which measures 12V as expected.

What am I missing? Am I looking at the wrong wire or not understanding how this relay is controlled?

vertical plug GREEN, brown (-) towards the bottom left of the plug.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I guess I'm still not seeing it. On the driver fuse box, I have two vertical green connectors (see below). The left one has a brown wire which is the driver door pin. The large middle connector doesn't appear to have any brown wires.

Off to the right, there is a vertical green connector...however, I'm assuming this isn't it since it isn't on the driver fuse box.

For what it's worth, my where's waldo skills weren't very good either lol

posted_image

Thanks Flobee...for whatever reason I assumed it could not possibly be in the big vertical connector lol.

Tested it and it signaled as expected. I'll have to hook it and the heated seats to the remote start next weekend and get all of that working.

Thanks for all the help from everyone so far.

heated seats just leave the switch on your preferred setting.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

heated seats just leave the switch on your preferred setting.

In Texas, this wouldn't work. The weather isn't consistent enough to know when to leave the seat warmers on. Our cold days come a few at a time several times throughout the winter...that gets mixed in with 70 degree days as well. Unless you really watch and keep up with the weather, no way to know consistently.

I pulled the wiring diagram for the car and looks like this should work pretty well. I mounted the brain behind the center console so the switches are right there. I plan to drive a relay off of the viper rear defrost timed output. Hopefully I can get that wired in next weekend!